Thread Number: 32112
Programmes you are always using
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 484305   12/26/2010 at 03:57 (4,860 days old) by nrones ()        

Hi,
First of all, I"m a pretty new member here, and I hadn"t introduced my self to you. I am Dex, and I come from Belgrade, Serbia. I have 3 washing machines (Candy GO4 1274 LH, Candy GO 510, Gorenje WA583), dishwasher (Siemens SE23200), and a tumble dryer (Whirlpool AWZ3303). As some of you might have noticed, my favourite is Candy ;)

Well, what I wanted to ask you in this thread is daily use of your washers!
Here is an example of my daily programmes and options:

Towels - cottons 60, medium soil, water+ (or 40, but I select superwash, and high soil)

Darks - Synthtetics 40 medium/low soil, (options depending on load, but I doo superwash when I want it to be quick, and stil good washed). But when I"m drying in the dryer, then I doo cottons 40, no options (because max on Synth"s is just 800, and on cottons 1200)

Underwear - Cottons 90, high soil, prewash, water plus (usually half load, so Candy reduces the time to 1h45m ;)

All the programmes I said are for Candy GO4 1274 LH (see the pic.), because it has all the options that GO510, and Gorenje have. And when I say low/medium/high soil I am not selecting any option like superwash or short, As you know Candy have time manager where you can select 3 levels of soiling/time.
Also it has KG mode that is automaticly reducing time when there"s less laundry in the machine.

The dryer:
Well, I am mostls doing 4-5 kg loads, so the dryer takes 80-90minutes to dry that.. Is that too much?

Visit my YouTube channel to see vids

www.youtube.com/nrones...


cheers,
Dex





Post# 484309 , Reply# 1   12/26/2010 at 06:50 (4,860 days old) by aegokocarat (United Kingdom)        

in my aqualtis i use shirts synthetics whites wool silk and colureds.
in the beko i use daly quick baby and toddler and spin+drain.


Post# 484312 , Reply# 2   12/26/2010 at 07:23 (4,860 days old) by jlbrazil (brazil)        

Towels/Bedding - Cottons 60 with rinse+ ( 4 rinses )

Whites - Cottons 60 with normal rinse (3 ) and pre wash

Colours - Cottons 50 with normal rinse

Darks - Duvet 40 with normal rinse (2 ) and 1000rpm

Delicates - Delicate 30 with normal rinse (2) and 800rpm

Shirts on Quick 30 at 40 with intensive , rinse++ (4) and anti crease ( 800 rpm for 30 seconds + 5 min anti crease tumbles )

And cleaning stuff on the Quick 30 with normal settings ( 30ºC , 800rpm and 2 rinses )

The machine I have is on the pic below



Post# 484314 , Reply# 3   12/26/2010 at 08:06 (4,860 days old) by targus ()        

on my washer (aeg lavamat 76850) I use:

- Towels: cottons 60° with option short depending on the load size
- Dark and coloured clothes: cottons or synthetics, when the load goes into the dryer then I chose cotton because it spins @ 1600 rpm.
- Bedding: cottons 60°
- very dirty towels on cottons 95° or hygiene
- delicates on delicates 30°

on my dryer (aeg lavatherm 59840) I use:

- for towels and beddings: cottons intensive dry
- for normal clothes: mix cupboard dry (MAX dry setting)

pic of machine below:



Post# 484315 , Reply# 4   12/26/2010 at 08:07 (4,860 days old) by hoover1100 (U.K.)        
For me (at present)

Towels and bed sheets- Cotton 60

Whites/lights- Cotton 40

Coloureds/Darks- Cotton 40

Jeans- Quick wash or Cotton 40 (depending on degree of soiling)

Delicates- Sythetics 40 or the Wool programme depending on what they are made of.

Matt


Post# 484371 , Reply# 5   12/26/2010 at 14:41 (4,859 days old) by dave886 (united kingdom)        

i have an aqualtis (new version)

colourfast darks, i used cotton coloured or the jeans cycle on a cold wash 800 to 1200rpm

normal load cotton & synthetics 30 to 40 degrees (depend on soil level) 800 to 1200rpm

bedding & towels, cotton cycle or bed & bath cycle 40 to 90degrees with steam hygiene option depending on the colour and fabric and soil level and size of the load 1200 to 1600rpm

whites on cotton 60 to 90 degrees 1200 to 1600rpm

special whites or coloureds with special designer prints 40degrees synthetics or silk cycle 600 to 800rpm

underwear i use 40 degrees cotton with steam hygiene 1600rpm


Post# 484373 , Reply# 6   12/26/2010 at 14:44 (4,859 days old) by nrones ()        
Cool

You said me what I wanted to see :D :D
Now, Can you tell me please what programmes would you use if you had my GrandOPlus?
*but please no answers like "I would never have a Candy, so I won"t talk about progs"

Thanks alot indeed :D


Post# 484375 , Reply# 7   12/26/2010 at 14:50 (4,859 days old) by dave886 (united kingdom)        

i forgot the pic :)

Post# 484376 , Reply# 8   12/26/2010 at 14:53 (4,859 days old) by dave886 (united kingdom)        
@nrones

i have never used a candy washer before, the ones in the uk are very basic

Post# 484390 , Reply# 9   12/26/2010 at 15:43 (4,859 days old) by SuperElectronic (London, UK)        
Flashy Grando...

Dex, you'd better post us a close up of the controls if you want us to play fantasy wash cycles!

I'm currently with my parents who have the rather basic cousin to the top-end Candy Grando: a Hoover Optima OPH616 (9 months troube free for those ready to scorn modern Hoovers!). Mum only uses the quick cycles:

44 for whites and lights
29 for darks and delicates
59 for towels

It seems to be working out well enough; being a retired couple they're not large generators of dirty laundry.

If I stick around another couple of days I might get to have a play with the machine. I'm interested to find out:

1 how long the cottons cycles are (suspect pushing 3 hours!)
2 what sort of cycle Sports is (long, cool and gentle: has potential for thorough washing of darks?)
3 how Wool cycle performs (seen a video of the new Hoover Dynamic doing wool: looks far too gentle to be of any use at all!)

I don't suppose I'll actually get to find out but you never know...

Going back to fantasy cycles, give me the following and I'd pick it:

25 minutes' wash (option for longer and shorter)
3 generous rinses
Short-ish spin option (so mixed loads don't crease)
Delicate/Wool option
Fully variable temp control

Think that covers it!


Post# 484411 , Reply# 10   12/26/2010 at 16:31 (4,859 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

Some modern Hoover scorn:

After 2-3 months of having our Hoover washer dryer it's drum is starting to make a ratcheting noise. It's still useless at balancing as well.

…and for some more Candy bashing:

I don’t know why Candy just don’t pull their brand from the UK and concentrate on Hoover – I wonder what a Hoover Aquamatic would look like?!?

That’s better!!

@ SuperElectronic – here is some insights:
1. For our Machine (WDYNS 654D) the Cottons (plus mandatory prewash) cycle times are 1:42/2:02/2:52 depending on selected cycle length. The KG mode will reduce these times as necessary, but using “Sensitive Care” will add approximately 20 minutes on to the cycle time.

2. For the sports cycle, we have only ever used it once and there was noting particularly special about it, but it did have a slightly deeper water level.

3. The wool cycle is very gentile, but it does work, it managed to remove dried in tikka masala sauce from a woollen jumper.


Post# 484419 , Reply# 11   12/26/2010 at 17:04 (4,859 days old) by nrones ()        
close up picture and reply

I think you can see all the controls now, but if you don"t tell me, I will take a pic myself ;)

My experiences with Candy"s are very good! My family and friends are having Candys all over, and most of them are happy.
Specially they are happy with washer/dryers. but that"s my side of the story, and I respect others ;)

@superelectronic
What are your experiences with Hoover? hadn"t understood well.. good or bad?

@solsburian
Why are you so unhappy with your WD? If it"s doing it"s job and still hadn"t broke don"t understand why.. some sounds from the drum aren"t that important :P Anyway what about drying cycles? are you satisfied?
Candy basicly pulled out their products from UK, and they are very focused on Hoover, they just left few basic models, just to leave name, and for ones that used to have Candy, and buy it over and over (yes it happends, read few reviews ;))

and yes.. what program should I use to eliminate creasing? Hadn"t tried anything, but first I want you to tell me :P

cheers,
Dex


Post# 484433 , Reply# 12   12/26/2010 at 18:31 (4,859 days old) by SuperElectronic (London, UK)        
Too many symbols!

Well thanks for the close-up, Dex. Think we might need a key for the symbols, though! Seems like a nice washer anyway...have been following your videos given my soft spot for Candy!

I don't have much experience with Hoover; can't make a call either way really. I have a lot of respect for the innovation they put into their products but feel it's often let down by poor quality components.

Our first family washer was a re-badged Candy from 1976 ish and lasted til 1985; a Candy replaced it but only lasted 18 months; Mother swore she'd never buy Candy again (I have not mentioned the Candy connection with the new Hoover).

Solsburian: thanks for the prog synopsis! Sorry to hear the new Hoover WD hasn't been your best purchase. Maybe it will bed in somehow...fingers crossed!

Minimum creasing? Synthetics at 30C would be my bet; the cool temp cuts the risk of heat shock and reduces creasing caused by post-wash spin. Press easy iron if you're not going to be there when it finishes (it's rinse hold, isn't it?). 800 spin at the end shouldn't give much cause for concern if short. If anything needs more of a spin, take it out, shake and use separate spin. IMPORTANT: do not overload! That's my recipe anyway!

Cheers

Alex


Post# 484495 , Reply# 13   12/27/2010 at 02:37 (4,859 days old) by nrones ()        
ahh symbols! :D

I much more prefer symbols than washers with everything written on it.. but maybe it"s because I never used (and we never had on this market) a washer without symbols. Every washer except Miele and some Bosch are having symbols, and I really understand them all :P
If you don"t understand, at the end of the video (in the link) is everything explained about controls and display ;)

Well, I wouldn"t ask you if less ironing was usable option.. It does everything great in the wash.. it gradually cools down the water (shuttle rinse - take water, then pump out abit, and take again - like on old Mieles :P), it doesn"t doo any intermit spin... but final spin too!! It does only a burst, and that"s it, but I can select synthtetics 30 with rinse hold :) will try it.
And also, we all put our clothes in a laundry basketand just put clothes inthere, so there they get creased.. will sth like you said remoove creases, or just wont make them (so, I should maybe fold down my shirts somewhere until they get washed)?


Post# 484503 , Reply# 14   12/27/2010 at 03:24 (4,859 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

My WD does wash and dry well, I'll give it that but the build quality seems so poor, especially compared to my Parents Hotpoint WT540. It is also excessively rattly when it spins, we tend to leave the kitchen when its spins for fear of it exploding lol. The main reason why we got it was for its slim depth (44cm) but that may be part of the part of the problem – perhaps there is not enough space inside for the drum to move around.

We got an extra two years labour warranty so that should keep us tied over until we get a new Kitchen, then we will be getting a Miele.


Post# 484504 , Reply# 15   12/27/2010 at 04:05 (4,859 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

I forgot to add, the Hoover's door isn’t even hung straight ether!

Post# 484510 , Reply# 16   12/27/2010 at 06:11 (4,859 days old) by nrones ()        
My Candy is slim too!

My Candy is slim too.. sadly we don"t have enough space in the bathroom, so all my machines were slim.
Don"t worry about cosmetic problems, I know exactly what are you talking about. Look how detergent draw is positioned on the close up picture ;) Such things in few 4 months drove me crazy, but then I just stopped thinking about it when I realized it doesn"t matter.. it washes great, remooves every single stain, and clothes are always fresh and well spinned, ready for the dryer, and those small looking issues you realise when you come closer to machine, trying to find imperfection, if you look at it generally it looks fine ;) so just relax, and enjoy it"s wash/dry programmes :D

I know that there are machines looking alot stronger, my Aqualtis looked alot stronger than GrandOPlus, and it broke after 8 months, so we gave it back. I know it looks that between Hotpoint and Candy, Candy is going to break first, but after my experience, I wouldn"t say so ;)


Post# 484513 , Reply# 17   12/27/2010 at 07:13 (4,859 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

My main concern is that the door catch may not align properly with the lock and may damage it in the long term; but I suppose the warranty will take care of it if its a issue!

We are off to my partners parents for a late Christmas dinner in rural Northumberland and I've left it washing the bedding on a 60 degree coloured cycle on maximum time, sensitive care (cycle time about 3:30) and set it to dry on sensor set to extra dry. I'll see how well its done when we get back!


Post# 484514 , Reply# 18   12/27/2010 at 07:18 (4,859 days old) by lavamat_jon (UK)        

Cottons Universal or Minimum Iron depending what's in the load... will (rarely) use Woollens handwash and Cottons Hygiene as and when suits. But most of the stuff will go on Cottons Universal (Universal means suitable for all, after all), and only Minimum Iron if there is something synthetic in the load.

I don't bother with the shirts or jeans cycles... everything is fine mixed together just sorted by colour - though I will seperate my colours into "rough" and "nice" loads... i.e. the rough load will have joggers/jeans/hoodies/underwear/scruffy t shirts etc, where the "nice" loads will have my nice clothes in and gets done with colour care deoderant. Shirts, jeans etc don't crease even after a 1600 spin as long as they are hung up and shaken out promptly. I used to wash denim seperately almost religously, but now I live on my own it would take me a fortnight to build up a denim load.

Temperature... general rule of thumb, 30/40 for clothes, 60 for bath/bed, 75+ for kitchen.

Jon


Post# 484515 , Reply# 19   12/27/2010 at 07:19 (4,859 days old) by lavamat_jon (UK)        
Ooops...

Thats meant to read colour care detergent, not colour care deoderant lol.
Jon


Post# 484530 , Reply# 20   12/27/2010 at 09:23 (4,858 days old) by SuperElectronic (London, UK)        
Crease removal...

Well, Dex - that easy ironing options sounds just what you'd need to minimise creasing, programme-wise! From experience, I'd say you just need to keep the temp low, the load to around two-thirds of a drum full and the spin short (preferably pulsed). A cool down phase is also good news. Once you have those conditions, most machines will launder without adding any major creases, as well as taking out any that have been put in! That said, it's vitually impossible for some items not to develop creases during the wash; when you get down to basics, there's no 100% effective alternative to ironing your clean clothes. Sorry!

HOOVER UPDATE: have just had chance to study the wash rythms for the OPH616's Sport and Wool cycles. Sport was normal agitation at higher water level (good) and Wool was gentle action at extra high water level (drum turns for about 3 seconds every 90 seconds or so: enough to be effective, though). Haven't time to run a full cycle today, though. Tomorrow I may put the machine through its paces with towels on 60C Cottons with Sensitive Care selected. Think I'll be in for a long-haul cycle with that one!
Also, it's only been in service 7 months, contrary to my earlier post.

Now as to the slim depth Hoover WD, it could well be the classic case of great innovation and so-so production. Keep us posted! I think many of us here would say to washer dryers in general: "just don't do it". Get a compact dryer instead - it could double as an occasional table given the right cover. A bit like anything 2in1, it's forever a compromise and never as good a separates.

Seem to have lost my train of thought now so I'll close...


Post# 484556 , Reply# 21   12/27/2010 at 12:32 (4,858 days old) by mielemondia757 ()        

I wash in my Miele Navitronic with all programms!!
white Cotton Towels, underwear and white socks are always wash at boilwash 95 with prewash and 1800rpm

dark load would wash on dark laundry program on 40°C with 1200rpm

easycares would wash on easy-care 40-60°C with 900rpm

wools on wool with 1100rpm and on 35°C

and Jeans with Jeans programm with 1000rpm

oh and the rest on automatic :) with 1200rpm and at 45°C

and here the washer :)



Post# 484567 , Reply# 22   12/27/2010 at 13:23 (4,858 days old) by nrones ()        
SuperElectronic,

I know there is no machine that isn"t making creases! I know that easy iron option is perfect on Candy, and it all stands, until we come to the final spin. it does one 600 10s burst! Clothes either go on separate final spin (that is long, and not interval) or drip-dry - clothes comming out soaked. If there was a final spin I would certainly use it always! :D :D
My cousin in London has the siemens, always use Easy-care 40, and dries in the dryer, she never irons! I mean, clothes aren"t 100% ironed, but very acceptable to wear it.
Also, as I said when we put clothes in the laundry basket (that is smallish) clothes are mostly under a big pressure, and they are mostly being creased inthere, so I ask would it be better if I just hang my shirts and t-shirts b4 washing?
Also, for example jeans (no matter wash) are comming out compleatly crease-less, and when I put them in the dryer they crease inthere so badly they must be ironed!
Thank you all for replying! I can"t wait to see more reply"s :D :D :D


Post# 484584 , Reply# 23   12/27/2010 at 14:45 (4,858 days old) by SuperElectronic (London, UK)        
Creases II

Hmmm...I see the problem, Dex: lack of appropriate spin to dry clothes without causing undue creasing! Not sure what to suggest for sure; you don't want very wet clothes hanging around indoors and certainly not in the dryer (just wastes the electricity). Maybe go with the sythetics 30 idea: light items will be sufficiently spun at 800rpm and with a bit of shaking and reloading the remainder will cope well with the full 1200 separate spin. This has long been my plan of action in the absence of a sophisticated machine with pulse spins etc.

Jeans should not crease when tumble dried, at least not to the point they HAVE to be ironed (and this is where you just have to apply your own judgement: ironing is definitely on the way out these days). Try drying jeans together: I've often found it best not to mix trousers with other garments since the legs are prone to wrapping themselves around other articles. Admittedly you might end up with a tangle of legs but give it a shot. Even more than with the washer, do not load the dryer too fully if crease removal is important. Those clothes need plenty of space to move around! It's also wise not to mix heavy and light items in the dryer: (a) it's difficult to get things uniformally dry and (b) the heavy items will crush and crease the light ones. This also applies in the washer with things like shirts and sheets: when you hit spin the heavy items crush and crease your lighter fabrics.

Take care with the heat setting in the dryer: gentle is always better and less likely to set in creases. As I recall, Whirlpool dryers are pretty fierce on full heat and when I had one it was a struggle not to get clothes smelling slightly toasted even on gentle (you did say you have a WP dryer, didn't you?).

Happy washing in the meantime: it's a learning process all along the way and you can't rely on one source for all the answers; Mothers (usually the starting point) can be particularly unreliable unless they take a particular interest. More often than not, people do what they can get away with (or will put up with) rather than follow best practice.

Alex


Post# 484585 , Reply# 24   12/27/2010 at 14:55 (4,858 days old) by SuperElectronic (London, UK)        
PS...

...I really don't think you need to keep your dirty items neatly folded. Even having been exposed to pressure, the wash process will relax items sufficiently to remove creases from storage in the laundry bin. You can be fairly confident that creases on clean laundry are the result of the washing process.

:-)


Post# 484589 , Reply# 25   12/27/2010 at 15:09 (4,858 days old) by nrones ()        
Thanks for such a great reply!

I wil try the synth"s 30 thing :)
I always use low heat, because my parents (and some other people around me) made me be afraid of shirnking, and they say clothes can shrink on such a high temperature :P

I just suddenly started thinking how my clothes were perfect b4 I got new machine(s). In my old Candy Exclusive 5000 I knew every bit and everything, everything was briliantly clean, and there was literally no need for ironing anything! And yes clothes are smelling slightly toasted even on gentle (I had a thread about it)!
Just to mention once again, when the less ironing programme on Candy is finished, clothes arent too damp so they can go to the dryer and after 3-4hrs will be dry, clothes are SOAKED, like there was no spin, water dripping of it, it is difficult to dry it even on the washing horse, because if you try to hang clothes like that, you will be wet like you had shower!

Thanks alot again!

P.S
What is your channel name on YouTube?


Post# 484596 , Reply# 26   12/27/2010 at 15:45 (4,858 days old) by dyson2drums (United Kingdom)        

dyson2drums's profile picture
Dyson washing machine:

Cottons 40oc for coloreds
Cottons 60oc for whites or 50oc if they're lightly soiled
Cottons 60oc for bedding and towels or 40oc as some nice looking duvet covers can't handle higher temperatures
Synthetics 40oc or 30oc for darks, jeans and quick washing
Wool 40oc or 30oc for woolens and
handwash rarely.

Take care :)


Post# 484597 , Reply# 27   12/27/2010 at 15:48 (4,858 days old) by hoover1100 (U.K.)        
Jeans in the dryer

Fold them up as if you were putting them away in the drawer, I can guatantee you they will come out crease free!

You can wash them on any programme and spin them as fast and long as you like and this will work.

This is a tip I was given by our own Lavamat_Jon.

I always spin everything on the fastest and longest spin possible (except delicates), and wash most things on the cottons cycle.

I never have trouble with creasing.

The main thing that will cause creases is leaving clothes sitting in the washer or the dryer for long periods after the machine has finished. Shaking things out before putting them in the dryer helps too.

Hang up or fold immediately and you shouldn't have any problems.

Matt


Post# 484601 , Reply# 28   12/27/2010 at 16:24 (4,858 days old) by gorenje (Slovenia)        
For me

gorenje's profile picture
Well...this are my loads I do in my 1971 gorenje PEA.
There are not many options since the machine is very old. In my previous gorenje I was able to change the programs as I wanted.

Towels and colored bad sheets - 60°C with powdered detergent and Calgon (water softener)

Darks and jeans - 40°C with liquid detergent (without Calgon)

"delicates" / synthetics / coloured underwear - 40°C with liquid detergent and Calgon

Whites - 95°C + prewash with powdered detergent and Calgon (somethimes @ 60°C, but I prefer a 95°C wash)

Wool - hand wash (I think my old machine would be too harsh for my woolens even if it's supposed to wash woolens)

There is no separate cycle for cottons and synthetics, only the temperature and the wash time changes from cycle to cycle and there is a button which turns off the spin after each rinse cycle and the final spin.
I have a separate spin dryer to spin the load befor put it in the dryer.
I don't iron almost nothing because my Bosch dryer realy does a very good job.
I love my old washer because it washes very well.


Post# 484604 , Reply# 29   12/27/2010 at 16:45 (4,858 days old) by nrones ()        
Thanks!

Interesting post from you (as I expected, because of so old washer :D)
Do you think Calgon is good? because I found it useless few years ago.. ;)


Post# 484617 , Reply# 30   12/27/2010 at 17:08 (4,858 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

@SuperElectronic:

I think you are right about it being perhaps a good idea on paper, no one else does a slim line washer dryer (as far as I know) which is perhaps saying something. Unfortunately we simply don't have the space for a separate tumble dryer as our Kitchen is very small and their is no where else to put it in our flat really. It's drying function is not that impaired which is more then can be said for the Servis Washer Dryer my partner had in their old flat!

@nrones:

There are some insights into Calgon in the link below.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO solsburian's LINK


Post# 484622 , Reply# 31   12/27/2010 at 17:29 (4,858 days old) by paulc (Edinburgh, Scotland)        
I am with Jon

paulc's profile picture
I wash practically everything on cottons which has 1300 spin, I select water plus ( extra water in the wash and rinse phases) I sort as follows:

White Towels:- cottons, short, 50/60deg usually large load cycle time 90mins

Tea Towels and cleaning cloths:- cottons,short 60deg, usually 3 to 4kg, cycle time 59mins

White clothes:- cottons short, 40/50 deg depending on soil. Again usually 3 to 4kg, cycle time 59mins

Light colured clothes: cottons, short 40deg, 3 to 4kg, 59mins

Darks:- same as above.

Jumpers:- Usually express 40deg, cycle time 30 mins or 37 if extra rinse selected.

I have never had problems with creasing using the cottons wash, even on synthetic items but I never wash a full 6kg of clothes at a time.Towels...I fill the machine as full as possible. I don't have a dryer so in the winter the 1300rpm spin is a must! I usually fold stuff as it comes out of the machine and leave it an hour or so before I put it on the clothes horse. In the summer everything goes straight out on the line if it is not raining.

I have, at times, used the Demims ,Darks and Automatic programmes but have found the cottons does a better job in a shorter time using less water/detergent and has a faster spin.

Hope that wasn't too long winded for you all!!! NRONES, I have always had a bit of a soft spot for Candy machines, epecially from the 70's. I actually like the styling of the new machines. I couldn't really see the programmes on the pic you posted(need glasses I think!) but I think I'd probably use the cottons programmes the most. Does Candy still do the rapid 32 min wash at 50deg? I used to look after an old lady with a Candy machine from the 90's and that was the only programme she would let me use and I must say it did a good job if you sorted colours properly.





Post# 484634 , Reply# 32   12/27/2010 at 18:08 (4,858 days old) by nrones ()        
R32 - Some yes some not

Mostly new models that are coming out are having 14-30-44min (max 40c) but some models are still having classic 32 50c which does AWESOME job for a fastwash! really effective!


Post# 484722 , Reply# 33   12/28/2010 at 04:38 (4,858 days old) by gorenje (Slovenia)        

gorenje's profile picture
@ nrones: To be honest I don't know if Calgon is so good.

I use it because in our region the water is hard and because I got used to use it in my previous new washer. I use it also because it increases the wash ability of the detergent....and because I'm so "obsessed" with cleanliness I think it's a good think. :) But honestly, perhaps is really something I wouldn't need to use.
Ingemar


Post# 484731 , Reply# 34   12/28/2010 at 07:44 (4,858 days old) by l86810 (Southend, UK)        

l86810's profile picture
Hi Dex! Welcome to the site!
What a great idea for a thread.

Mine are...

Towels:: Cotton 75oC with Water Plus and Extra Rinse. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 2h28
Bedding:: Minimum Iron 60oC with Short, Water Plus and Extra Rinse. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 1h10
Whites / Lights (general):: Automatic 40oC. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 1h18
Whites / Lights (nice):: Dark Garments 20oC-40oC (Ariel Excel Gel Bio) 1h15
Colours / Darks / Jeans:: Dark Garments 20oC with Short (Ariel Excel Gel Colour) 1h02
Acrylic or Wool / cardigans:: Wool 30oC (Woolite) 0h39

I, like Jon also split loads into general garments like work shirts, plain t-shirts, underwear, lounge wear etc, and then nicer stuff like branded t-shirts, going out shirts, jumpers with prints on etc


Adam :D



Post# 484860 , Reply# 35   12/28/2010 at 19:36 (4,857 days old) by SuperElectronic (London, UK)        
If only we could write a laundry manual....

It's always so refereshing to pick up a new piece of info from this site on laundry practices! Folding jeans in the dryer to avoid creasing for example...though would this not increase drying time and run the risk of wear lines where there are folds? Suppose maybe not if drying inside out as recommeded generally.

I envy those folks who say they have no issues with creasing. Maybe they don't wear so many shirts for work or something! The advice on reduced loads and temperatures does come from experience...if I follow instructions for my own washer and load a full 3kg of mixed fabrics (read poly cotton shirts etc) the creases are hellish, especially if I opt for 50C synthetics (40C synths is too short; 40C cottons is long enough but has a long spin).

Anyway, just for the record, my regular programmes are:

60C Cottons for whites (this is without fail; don't have any delicate whites)
50C Synthetics or 40C Cottons for light colours
ditto for darks but sometimes I will use 40C synthetics if I'm feeling careful
Very occasionally I will use Wool for delicate jumpers
Quick wash for the odd random item or two
From time to time I use 60C cottons for lights if they are robust (cotton duvet covers, pale sheets, the oven glove and so on)...ok, scraping the barrel now!

Here's a pic of my controls...the programmes based on the ITCL symbols and (for those who don't know):
shower = rinse
spiral = spin
intermittant spiral = short spin
P = prewash
->-> = quick wash


Super Rinse is on for most loads unless they're small, especially on the synthetics cycles that have only 3 rinses (cottons have 4). Maybe not totally necessary but I think it's easier on the clothes - more cushioning.

PS have some more material on the Hoover OPH616 now and will post a new thread...just for the hell of it! And Dex, apologies - I have no YouTube account due to lack of appropriate video-making technology!


Post# 484936 , Reply# 36   12/29/2010 at 03:35 (4,857 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)        

ronhic's profile picture
Ok, well it seems most of us 'front load' jockeys tend to use similar cycles - who'd have thought :)

So here are mine...all with either OMOmatic, DRIVEmatic or every now and then SURFmatic (yes, I know....it really should be OMO Front Loader/HE, but it'll ALWAYS BE OMOMATIC...) and no softener under any circumstances...

Sheets/towels - cotton 60c, quick - 1hr 15min
Whites - cotton 40/60c, quick - 1hr 8min or 1hr 15min
colours - cotton 40c, quick - 1hr 8min
Dogs bedding - synthetic 30c, quick - 44min

Every now and then I use the wool cycle...

As you can see from the fuzzy picture below (UK fans) the machine looks, and is, the same as the first ones sold under the 'John Lewis' label and made by Zanussi/Electrolux for them....

It's been great really. I've had the hinge side suspension replaced 18months ago and that is it...not bad for a machine that averaged 20 loads a week for the first 3yrs of its life (2006-2009) and is still doing 11.....


Post# 484967 , Reply# 37   12/29/2010 at 09:19 (4,856 days old) by nrones ()        
Cool :D

Thanks for all your reply"s!
Well, mostly people use similar programmes :P

@SuperElectronic
What happend to OPH616? why is it "hell"?


Post# 484990 , Reply# 38   12/29/2010 at 10:59 (4,856 days old) by hoover1100 (U.K.)        
SuperElectronic

About the jeans, no they don't get wear marks and they dont take longer to dry. They come unfolded after a few revolutions anyway. Don't ask me how it works, I have no idea, it just does *lol*

I've just come to the conclusion now that some fabrics will crease and others won't, and there really is nothing you can do about it much. My Dad's expensive pure cotton work shirts crease like hell, but they crease just as badly whether washed on cottons 60 or synthetics 40, and whether spun on a full 1200 cottons spin, or a short 600 synthetics spin. I used to do bedsheets, shirts, anything that creased on sythetics 40 with 600 spin in an effort to minimise creases, but it really made no difference.

Same with the dryer, tumble drying or line drying, it makes no difference if you do it properly (i.e. shake things out and hang them up neatly, or use low heat in the dryer and don't allow them to overdry)

At the end of the day, some things WILL need to be ironed, no matter what, it just depends how fussy you are about having creased clothes as to which clothes you will have to iron.

Matt




This post was last edited 12/29/2010 at 12:56
Post# 484994 , Reply# 39   12/29/2010 at 11:09 (4,856 days old) by nrones ()        
Same conclusion from me!

I just did a programme that SuperElectronic suggested me (Synthtetics 30 with easy iron option). Some clothes just creased some not.. ones that don"t crease on normal wash, didn"t creased now.. ones that crease, remained creased... there was no one thing that was more/less creased.. So I will have to accept that somethings will need to be ironed! :)



Post# 485004 , Reply# 40   12/29/2010 at 12:35 (4,856 days old) by SuperElectronic (London, UK)        
Maybe I should keep my opinions and advice to myself...

Dex, I'm sorry to hear my suggestions had little or no effect! On reflection, one can do all sorts of things to REDUCE creasing; ulimatelty, however, those items that crease will always need ironing! And you might well be of the mindset that if you're going to have to iron anyway, what does it matter how creased the clothes are? Personally, I'd rather not have to deal with heavily creased items when a bit of care in the laundry will make it that much easier to iron out the creases...so, for example, careful laundering of polyester/cotton blend shirts means ironing is nice and quick. Wash those same shirts in a large load on a hot wash with fast spin and you end up having to dampen the entire article before you even get the steam iron out! Furthermore, careless laundering can set creases into things you wouldn't otherwise have had to iron (e.g. washing anything synthetic much above 50C - and never over 60C: creases will become virtually permanent). Then again, everyone's laundry pile is different. What works for one person might not for the other. That's the trouble with advice!

Further apologies are due for to the confusion caused in my earlier post: I was talking about my normal machine, the Hotpoint WM12 from 1996 (controls were pictured); there was nothing "hell(ish)" about the OPH616! There'll be more on the Hoover when I'm feeling mentally stronger...or have had a drink...given the antipathy toward new Hoover products I'm not sure what sort of reception a thread will get!

Matt - thank you for the additional clarification about the jeans tip. I feel I am in need of a tumble drying masterclass!

Bye for now.

Alex


Post# 485040 , Reply# 41   12/29/2010 at 16:47 (4,856 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

While there is apathy towards Hoover/Candy, that should not put you off starting another thread. I'd like to hear your experiences with your Parents OPH616!!

Post# 485083 , Reply# 42   12/29/2010 at 20:21 (4,856 days old) by favorit ()        
almost vintage Miele here :)

.... so "water plus" and FOUR rinses (even on minimum iron and delicates) are default. I rarely use minimum iron, as the cotton cycle has default cooldown and even interim spins pulse.

The downside : I have to push the "without prewash" button everytime ... 20 years ago the prewash was a commandment *LOL*

Anyway my loads are :

- whites cottons/linen/polyester/lycra (underwear, dress shirts and towels) : boilwash/colours 60°C + "short" + "without prewash" + liquid detergent for whites + oxy bleach


- the world of colours : kitchen towels,runners/tablecloths, bedding, underwear, undershirts, fleece socks, dark towels, speedos, silicone caps, capilene sweatshirts, polyester baggies/shorts, work uniforms : same 60°C cycle as whites, but with liquid detergent for dark fabrics and fabric disinfectant

- cotton trousers and shirts run on cottons 30°C ("bollitura colorata"= "boilwash and coloured cottons")

- fleece jumpers/jackets/blankets/gloves/caps/pants, polo shirts, viscose dress shirts, velvet trousers, nice shirts, training suits, raincoats go on "delicates easy care"/"lava indossa delicata"/"pflegeleicht fein" cycle tap cold or 30°C + no prewash + rinse hold. Before releasing the rinse hold button I switch to cotton cycle to have a full spin (usually set to 800-1000 rpm)

Woolens go in my parents Novotronic, as this "vintage" wool cycle is not that safe ....

I never have so stained clothes that require the default extended wash portion of the cycles, then I always press "short"/"breve" too


Post# 485139 , Reply# 43   12/30/2010 at 02:26 (4,856 days old) by nrones ()        

SuperElectronic,
Ofcourse you shouldn"t keep your advices for yourself!! You should just tell everything you think!! It"s just a thing that we have to try, and share our experiences!
I will comment on your hoover thread.

Solsburian,
Did you came ack home from that trip? How did Hoover washed-dryed towels? :)

Favorit
I deffinatley adore your choice of programmes and machine! :D Just think you need detergent and softer... no more additives ;)


Post# 485145 , Reply# 44   12/30/2010 at 03:11 (4,856 days old) by virabhadrasana (France / Italy)        

Hi! Very interesting thread!
I have a Siemens Siwamat XSL 1260, bought in 2001.
I normally use 40° or 60° cottons (+ intensive if necessary) for cottons/linen/towels or Synthetic 40° for other washes.
There is not big difference in tumble actions between cotton or syntethic programs, and I'm quite desappointed about that; cotton programs just have a longer main wash (up to 60 min. on full loads with intensive option selected)and of course have longer and faster spins.
"Mix wash 30°" has a gentle drum action.
Rinses are quite poor and the "extra rinse" option just adds one rinse with (very) low water lever, so I always run a separate "rinse+spin" (high water lever by default)after the washing is finished. "Rinse+spin" + extra rinse option selected adds 2 extra rinses.
Before the Siemens I had a Top Loader Miele similar to Favorit's (bought in 1994). Even tought only Cottons cycles had intermediate spins, I really appreciated the "delicate" or "short" options and the possibility to select high water level for rinses, 1 extra rinse, etc by turning the selector and pushing the bottons as explained in the notice (sorry for my bad english). But the best thing was that this washer allowed to repeat or to skip a section of the washing, and it could handle unbalance perfectly even if sometimes it used to jump on the first and second spin burst :)). I had to sell it when I moved and i really regret it.
I think my next washer will be a Miele again!
Regards,
Marco


Post# 485157 , Reply# 45   12/30/2010 at 04:29 (4,856 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

@nrones:

It didn’t do too bad, just the duvet cover and one pillow case was slightly damp in places, an extra 30 minutes sorted it out. It's probably because they got tangled together at some point.


Post# 485184 , Reply# 46   12/30/2010 at 08:19 (4,856 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

mrboilwash's profile picture
Nice thread! Just cannot resist to throw in my washing recipe once more again ;-)

So I do towels, socks, rags and dishtowels at 95° cottons with "intense"

Fitted sheets, doublesheets, pillowcases, tablerunners and undies is 75° cottons short.

Everyday clothes like jeans, t-shirts, hoodies, sweaters, polyester and lycra sports stuff like swim trunks at 60° cottons with short.

Only the new and nice stuff like a jacket gets the special spa treatment at 30° or 40° with the appropriate cycle.

So basically I get along with 3 cylcles. Most loads are usually loaded to capacity but not stuffed. I always have water plus selected to get the 3rd rinse.
I dont care for additives like oxygen bleach just use a good mild liquid detergent with enzymes for everything. I also dont care much for seperating whites and colors because 99% of the things we get here wont run in the second wash anyways. My few white things are still amazingly white and not dingy at all but of course not that perfect as if when washed seperatly. Guess the higher temperatures help a lot. Some colors seem last forever while some things fade rather quickly, but who cares. Most of my things are out of fashion before they are worn out.


Post# 485272 , Reply# 47   12/30/2010 at 15:42 (4,855 days old) by nrones ()        

@solsburian
I am glad it did a great job... maybe dryer balls would help with that bed sheet problem! To be honest, I hate when it comes to bedding and my Whirlpool dryer - I literally have to stop it after 10 monutes to spread the sheet that rolled up, and it never happend that it isn"t rolled up :( Would love to try dryer balls, but currently I can"t find them

@mrboilwash
You wash darks at 60 too?
Nice choice of programmes, but I really think that darks should be washed at 30-40 :)


Post# 485276 , Reply# 48   12/30/2010 at 15:55 (4,855 days old) by gorenje (Slovenia)        
whites on 95°C

gorenje's profile picture
Hello everyone once again,
I was reading again your posts. Am I the only one who still wash whites on 95°C?
I mean, I do this even if my whites are not so dirty. I don't have so many whites to do, but those few times I do I want my whites to be really clean and white. And the better way to obtain this is powdered detergent and a 95°C wash. (no white shirts in the load - those I wash at 60°C)
Ingemar


Post# 485303 , Reply# 49   12/30/2010 at 17:05 (4,855 days old) by jlbrazil (brazil)        

I do mine at 60 coz my machine is 110 volts :(

No 95 wash.


Post# 485304 , Reply# 50   12/30/2010 at 17:10 (4,855 days old) by solsburian (SE Northumberland)        

@nrones

I've never tried them but I've read that they don't work. It's not a big deal for me since they were virtually dry anyway.


Post# 485367 , Reply# 51   12/30/2010 at 22:56 (4,855 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

mrboilwash's profile picture
Yes, thats right I even wash darks like black t-shirts at 60°. But I prefer a regular liquid over any color powder, find them to be easier on colors and fibers in hot washes.
Its just the most precious stuff that gets 30° or 40° in this household.
I know its a bit exteme considering my laundry is not that dirty. I think I might be a bit of a germophobe, well at least laundrywise...

When I still used powders the towel loads were washed at 95° with regular powder.
Sheet loads got washed at 60° with color powder.
Clothing got washed at 40° with color powder.
Then I switched to liquids about 2 years ago because I hated the zeolit dust in the dryer`s lint screen but didnt get the same results anymore like I was used to. So I decided to do my 40° loads at 60° and my 60° loads at 75°.
I dont regret that change of laundry practice at all. My towels (still boilwashed) last much longer and dont get that nasty scratchy limescale buildup so fast as before. I also believe there is less wear on my other clothes even with the higher temperatures. And did I mention my things smell much better now ?



Post# 485383 , Reply# 52   12/31/2010 at 00:10 (4,855 days old) by favorit ()        
do agree with Stefan

Dex,me too never wash dark towels and underwear lower than 60°C.

It is not question to be or not to be germophobe : that stuff like wet towels, sweated underwear and sport stuff are prone to stink. These nasty smells are actually the result of a bacterial proliferation and bacteria spread to the whole load if not controled with proper means (thermal or chemical inibition).

A proof of what I'm saying : once I washed some **new** towels @ 40°C with just one beach towel I forgot inside a bag for a whole day. They came out fresh smelling BUT just **during** their first use they started stinking.

Modern detergents for dark clothes actually do their job, even on average quality fabrics. My Ikea black towels aren't high quality items, yet they still are actually black after almost ten years. I can even wash black clothes with pastel colours @ 60°C without any issue.

@ Stefan : Dixan (Persil) Gold regular powder does not contain anymore zeolythes, at least the italian formulation

@ Ingemar - I rarely boilwash, as I had to split into a boilwash load without elastics an a 60°C load with elastics and I had to wait too long even to collect just an half load for each one. Anyway my mother boilwashes her fine linen tableclothes to get rid of wine and tomato stains made by the usual hopeless guest :). She has a "secret" trick for heavy stained clothes : she splits them into half loads to enhance the lift and drop action of the machine. This way she doesn't need to use any bleach beyond that one contained in the powdered detergent


Post# 485439 , Reply# 53   12/31/2010 at 07:38 (4,855 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

mrboilwash's profile picture
Just checked the Henkel website for Persil and indeed the new traditional powder does not contain zeolites anymore. Thats good news, maybe I should try a small package for badly stained things that cannot take high temperatures. However the Megaperls are still loaded with the stuff.

Wouldnt worry too much about elastics and boilwashing. After all there is elastics and there is elastics. I mean the oldfashiond rubberbased elastics wont last forever no matter how good one takes care of them. Modern Elasthan (Spandex) is way more durable and seems to cope well with the occasional 95° wash.


Post# 485469 , Reply# 54   12/31/2010 at 12:06 (4,854 days old) by cbosch ()        
programmes

Hi folks,

My programmes of choice vary slightly with the different machines but in brief...

Miele:
Towels / table linnen / underwear - Cottons 60 / 95 dependant on content of load
Clothes - Shirts cycle 40
Pure cotton bedding - Shirts cycle at 60
Wool - Wool cycle with 600rpm spin at 30
(I like the shirt cycle because it doesn't spin until the ned and the clothes are easier to iron. They come out pretty wet but I stick nearly everything in the dryer)

Hotpoint aqualtis
Towels underwear etc - Whites 60 / 90
Work shirts - Shirts at 40
Dark socks PJ's - synthetic 50
Good trousers - silk 30 cycle
ordinary clothes - synthetic 40
bedding - Whites 60
Strangely I tend to wash wool at the silk cycle in this machine find it gentler and there is less spinning invovled,


Post# 485602 , Reply# 55   1/1/2011 at 06:00 (4,854 days old) by nrones ()        
cbosch

What is the spin speed on the shirts programme? And how long does it need to dry? :)

Post# 485665 , Reply# 56   1/1/2011 at 14:11 (4,853 days old) by lavamat_jon (UK)        

nrones - the Miele shirt spin is 600rpm.


Post# 485680 , Reply# 57   1/1/2011 at 16:04 (4,853 days old) by zanussi_lover (Nottingham, UK)        
programmes

zanussi_lover's profile picture
I do towels/sheets - Cottons 60*c + quick with Persil Non Bio Powder

Coloured Towels at Cottons 60*c + Quick with Persil Colour

Clothes (Whites) - Synthetics 40*c + Quick with Persil Non Bio powder

Clothes (Colours) - Synthetics 30*c + Quick = Persil Colour

Wooly Jumpers/Delicates get done on Woollens Cold or Handwash.


None of my clothes are specifically dirty, so i can get away with using the quick wash option on my beko, I cant be arsed waiting 2 hours for a wash cycle. Anything that takes longer than 90 minutes is a waste of time.

I use about 70ml of Persil each wash, and the wash comes up clean.


I never boil wash clothes, if whites need brightening up i add some bicarbonate of soda in with the powder, or a glo white whitener sachet in the wash load.









Post# 485687 , Reply# 58   1/1/2011 at 17:02 (4,853 days old) by AquaCycle (West Yorkshire, UK)        

aquacycle's profile picture
Washing:

Towels, dishcloths & Bedding - Cottons 60, water plus

Darks (including jeans, t-shirts, hoodies, underwear, work pants) - cottons 40, short, water plus

Coloureds (light t-shirts, light coloured work shirts and such) - minimum iron 40, short, water plus

I also have some wool work jumpers that I was on delicates 40

Drying:

I find myself using the dryer less and less. Bedding and towels always go in the dryer, as I have nowhere to hang this up. Underwear and socks go in the same drying load as my work pants and work shirts. When I tumble dry these, I can get away with not ironing them if I empty the dryer quickly enough. Everything else goes on the clothes horse.





Post# 485688 , Reply# 59   1/1/2011 at 17:06 (4,853 days old) by AquaCycle (West Yorkshire, UK)        

aquacycle's profile picture
and the dryer...



Post# 485708 , Reply# 60   1/1/2011 at 18:11 (4,853 days old) by AquaCycle (West Yorkshire, UK)        
I never boil wash clothes, if whites need brightening up i a

aquacycle's profile picture
Just a thought - Washing at 60 with a biological powder or tablets would kind of eliminate the need of doing this, saving both money and time. Completely agree with you about the long cycle times - especially in the Beko. The one I had in my old place just went ooooonnn and oooooonnn. And not like an Ariston :P

Post# 485800 , Reply# 61   1/2/2011 at 07:24 (4,853 days old) by nrones ()        
*******2011********

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!!
WISH YOU ALL THE BEST :D

Dex


Post# 486293 , Reply# 62   1/4/2011 at 10:11 (4,850 days old) by nrones ()        
Synthtetics 30, Easy iron

I filmed it! :D
It"s just I selected a Stain Blaster option, but that doesn"t change things much! :D

cheers,
Dex

A link to a vid:


CLICK HERE TO GO TO nrones's LINK


Post# 486794 , Reply# 63   1/6/2011 at 15:18 (4,848 days old) by mrwash ()        
My Cycles that I use most

Darks 40° with 1200 RPM and AutoDos
Cottons 75° (whites) with 1600 RPM
Cottons 60° (darks and colored items) with 1400/1600 RPM and AutoDos
Shirts 60° with 600 RPM
Automatic Plus 40° with 1200 RPM, additional rinse and AutoDos
Easy-Care 40° (colored items) or 50° (whites) with 1200 RPM
Jeans 40° with 900 RPM and AutoDos
Synthetcis 40° with 600 RPM

Thats pretty much it !


Post# 486797 , Reply# 64   1/6/2011 at 15:45 (4,848 days old) by paulc (Edinburgh, Scotland)        
Mrwash

paulc's profile picture
Do you have a Miele? If so how do you get an additional rinse on the Automatic wash?


Also, I am very suprised at the ammount of people who wash the darks at 60 deg! My darks would fall apart!!!!


Post# 486927 , Reply# 65   1/7/2011 at 07:27 (4,848 days old) by mrwash ()        
additional rinse

I am sorry, I should have written that I use the "seperate rinse" sometimes when I think the laundry got not rinsed well at the end of the cycle. I know that you can't choose an additional rinse when using Automatic Plus.

Yes I do have a Miele Supertronic and am very pleased with it.


Post# 487007 , Reply# 66   1/7/2011 at 12:18 (4,847 days old) by favorit ()        
Automatic Plus AKA "Mixed fabrics" on older models

Hi Paul and Flo, do you really find this cycle useful ?

When I have to wash a mixed load with my mother's Novotronic I end up using "Easy Care/Pflegeleicht", because :

- "Mixed loads" has just the 40°C choice

- it behaves too randomly : e.g. the machine senses fleece as if it were towelling (---> cotton ---> no cooldown) and on the contrary it senses light linen and cotton small loads as if they were polyester (waste of water).

@Flo : can you post some pics ? I don't guess to be the only one who craves to watch some more pics of the new W5000 :-)))



Post# 487014 , Reply# 67   1/7/2011 at 12:35 (4,847 days old) by paulc (Edinburgh, Scotland)        
favorit

paulc's profile picture
I rarely use the Automatic wash for the reasons you stated, infact I can't remember the last time I used it.

Post# 487034 , Reply# 68   1/7/2011 at 14:01 (4,847 days old) by mrwash ()        

Well, I use it for left-overs. It is quite okay.

For everyone who is interested in pics or vids, just visit my youtube account "NavitronicLaundryLab".

I have to take some new pictures of the machine to post here, as I already deleted the older ones.


Post# 767258 , Reply# 69   7/1/2014 at 14:37 (3,576 days old) by BEHZAD (Home Appliances Lab)        
MY ONE AND ONLY MIELE

HEY
I interesting about MIELE,but we haven't MIELE washer yet,
just i have MIELE vacuum!sorry


  View Full Size

Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy