Thread Number: 32202
Vintage Air Conditioners. The Holy Grail of vintage appliances?
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Post# 485768   1/1/2011 at 23:02 (2,606 days old) by austinado16 ()        

A vintage window air conditioner. It's the only thing I've not yet scored for our home. Are these things just unobtainium, or have I not been living right?

Anyone have one and if so, care to show it off?

Post# 485778 , Reply# 1   1/2/2011 at 00:54 (2,606 days old) by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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I think I remember reading about a Chrysler AirTemp that somebody here was still using.  Not sure how vintage you mean, but it does seem that A/C units don't enjoy the same longevity as refrigerators, probably because they're out in the elements all their lives.

When I worked for a HVAC contractor I was amazed at how often even the larger rooftop A/C units would fail, even when properly maintained.  Clearly, they're cooling a lot more volume than the 20 or so cubic feet of a refrigerator/freezer, but you'd think they would be built to last longer than they do.

Post# 485782 , Reply# 2   1/2/2011 at 01:24 (2,606 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)        

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It would be great to see some pics...please share if anyone has some...I can still remember our huge 80s wood grain Kenmore.

Post# 485783 , Reply# 3   1/2/2011 at 01:33 (2,606 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Older units were run to death and or improperly maintained, so when they failed off to the rubbish heap they went.

OTHO those whom do own vintage units, may know what they've got and are hanging on.

Searching locally such as estate sales and Craigslist type offerings may yield better results when looking for vintage AC units. The things aren't exactly light, and the shipping would likely deter both sellers and potential buyers.

We have an older Friedrich "WallMaster",and dread the day it goes. Pumps out cold air and while not terribly efficient, gets the job done better than the electronic units sold today.

Only fly in the ointment is taking the unit out of the wall for cleaning at least every other year, and to oil the motor.

Many persons did not realise then or didn't appreciate the directions to clean and maintain older ACs, and this includes oiling the motor, along with removing built up dust,dirt and gunk.

So many people chuck an AC because it "won't cool" when the thing really needs a good steam cleaning and new filter.

Post# 485795 , Reply# 4   1/2/2011 at 06:36 (2,606 days old) by chachp (Conway, AR)        
Older A/C Units

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I remember working in an office in Green Bay, Wisconsin that had a water cooled A/C system. That thing was so loud and when it would kick on you would hear the water running through it.

Was it recirculating that water or was it just running in and then out? That office was never cool but I think I remember them saying it was too small for the size room. The unit itself was enourmous. It took the better part of a hallway as I recall and I think there was some component on the roof too.

I think it was from sometime in the 50's and it ran until the late 80's when they replaced it.

Post# 485796 , Reply# 5   1/2/2011 at 06:46 (2,606 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
In Lenoir

My hometown, the building that housed the Carrier dealer is still cooled by a Carrier unit that has a water cooled condenser, if you stand in front of it it will make your teeth hurt it is so cold,I think it is about 5 tons or so, but really, window units are fairly common, I have a 64 Frigidaire 7500 btu unit that works great.

Post# 485801 , Reply# 6   1/2/2011 at 07:29 (2,606 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Window units were not usually repaired when they failed. It was cheaper to buy a new one. The best preserved ones were removed from the window during the winter. Many areas that had early ac units really needed them due to high humidity which could really do a number on the steel. Add in the salt air in many of the coastal regions and it is easy to see why they sort of crumbled away.

I remember those big units in restaurants and offices in the Southeast in the 50s and 60s. When they were new, they were usually a soft aqua green. The compressor was in the big inside unit which is why they were noisy, but everyone preferred to talk louder than wipe sweat. I remember the big discharge grille at the top. The indoor units were connected to a cooling tower outside with a pump and fan and wooden louvers. Outside some Howard Johnson restaurants, they were at ground level behind the restaurant and on the way back to the car, I always tried to get a close up view of the tower with the water cascading down the inward tipped wooden louvers to try to see what was in the base of the tank. That was hard to do quickly when I was being called to come to the car. I did not want to get into trouble with all of us in the car and no way to escape, but on the other hand, it was a chance to see something with water splashing and spraying and it was very hard to resist.

Post# 485805 , Reply# 7   1/2/2011 at 08:20 (2,606 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)        

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One of the old Oil Money mansions down here has a cool late '30s/early 40's window unit on the enclosed "patio" but I don't think it has been turned on in over 30 years.

There was a green '50s Hotpoint window unit on ebay a couple of months ago that didn't sell. The seller never relisted it.It was posted here on the Super forum at the time. Here's the auction link:

CLICK HERE TO GO TO 58limited's LINK on eBay

Post# 485815 , Reply# 8   1/2/2011 at 11:24 (2,606 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
Maybe better to collect than run?

Vintage window AC units if too old are somewhat energy hogs, thus often they got scrapped. An 8000 BTUH unit a friend bought used for 50 bucks in 1980 was OK for occasional usage, but a 1970 AC that has an EER of 6 when new can be only 4 or 5 today with corroded fins. It is sort of like owning an old car that gets 6 to 10 miles per gallon. Here in the deep south the outside fins on the coils disappear with time.

At my plant there is an 18000 BTUH AC unit that is in the ceiling from the 1960's, one for a computer room. Its EER was about 4 when new in 1968. Today its fins are a mess, it cools about like a 5500 BTUH unit now , but runs off 240 volts and draws about 20 + amp.

Post# 485818 , Reply# 9   1/2/2011 at 11:38 (2,606 days old) by austinado16 ()        

Yeah, that Hotpoint is exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks for posting that link. Umpteen years ago, there was an equally beautiful Vornado on ebay and I wanted it sooooo bad. Typical though, always on the wrong side of the country and it would be a real challenge to get shipped.

Post# 485827 , Reply# 10   1/2/2011 at 13:02 (2,606 days old) by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Todd, I have to ask.  You live in SLO, where the climate is moderate and uncomfortably hot days are few and far between.  Do you actually have a need for a window A/C unit or is this just a collector's item for you?

Post# 485830 , Reply# 11   1/2/2011 at 13:14 (2,606 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
They !!

Might be energy hogs, but they are much colder and usually quieter than what is out there now.

Post# 485833 , Reply# 12   1/2/2011 at 13:18 (2,606 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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There's a 70's wood grain big GE window unit in the enclosed patio. It will run for a minute or so, then it trips the breaker. I'd pull it down and replace it (even if temporarily) with a modern unit, but it's stuck on top of an eight foot high wall; difficult to get to and I still haven't figured out the best way to get at it. Plus generally I don't wish to try to A/C that space anyway, since it's not air-tight (by design) and would be quite a waste of energy.

I posted a photo here of it a few years ago; will have to see if I still have a copy on the computer...

Besides the overload problem, it needs new dials/knobs. I have to kind of guess what the setting is. Sometimes I run it just for the fan. It's one of the few units I've seen that can actually exhaust room air to the outside. Useful on real hot days when all I want to do is get rid of the heat at the ceiling level.

Post# 485835 , Reply# 13   1/2/2011 at 13:34 (2,606 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        
Found the photos

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I could have taken more shots, but this was quicker... once I found them!!!

Post# 485836 , Reply# 14   1/2/2011 at 13:35 (2,606 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Doesn't look bad even up close. Anybody know where I could find replacement knobs?

Post# 485837 , Reply# 15   1/2/2011 at 13:37 (2,606 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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The cryptic settings list...

Post# 485839 , Reply# 16   1/2/2011 at 13:42 (2,606 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Full view. It sticks out even more (about 1.5 feet) on the outside. Somebody fashioned a rain cover for the outer section, which looks like it's sturdy steel - if not stainless steel painted over. The problem I have is in trying to figure out how to remove the unit for repair. Due to the height it will take two strong bodies on ladders to remove it from the inside.

Post# 485841 , Reply# 17   1/2/2011 at 13:48 (2,606 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Final quasi isometric view...

Post# 485843 , Reply# 18   1/2/2011 at 13:49 (2,606 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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PS-Anybody know if anyone makes a window unit that will exhaust room air to the outside? All the ones I've seen in stores don't allow that. The most they do is allow one to recirculate room air.

Post# 485847 , Reply# 19   1/2/2011 at 14:13 (2,606 days old) by 112561 (River Park, in Port St. Lucie, Florida)        

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Maybe one of the members with a gigantic box of unidentifiable knobs could help you out, I like the woodgraining on the metal cabinet. Is it actually from the '70s though?

I'm still sorry the Pineapple Patti Antique Mall ditched their two '60s Coldspots a couple of years ago.

Post# 485849 , Reply# 20   1/2/2011 at 14:21 (2,606 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

that looks much older than the'70s,looks more mid-'50s to me-would be cool to
get it running properly again,sounds like the compressor is not starting
could have a bad run capacitor or might need the compressor"bumped"
loose if it is stiff from setting unused for a long time...
(can give some unsticking methods if you like)

Post# 485852 , Reply# 21   1/2/2011 at 14:41 (2,606 days old) by austinado16 ()        

Ralph we actually have a 10,000btu Kenmore that I mount in the living room window from about May or June, until October. The weather down here spins on a dime. This summer, we had a week in the triple high as 114 on one day, and then another couple weeks (spread out) in the high 90's, low 100's.

So yes, I would actually use it, and yes, it would be yet another great vintage item to not only collect, but to put back into service. If I could find a safe way to transport that OH a/c unit....I'd go for it.

Re: Knobs...
Your local hardware store, as well as radioshack, will have knobs that attach to D shaped shafts like that with a set screw in from the side. They're cheap and come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They may not be chrome, but there are some great black versions that are very old school.

Post# 485902 , Reply# 22   1/2/2011 at 17:57 (2,605 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

 That unit looks very similar to a 1954 Admiral air conditioner my parents had. It was a wall unit but the metal case on the inside had the same kind of wood graining on it.

 The front coils on your unit look very clean. Where is the filter that goes in there?

 We still have a lot of older office buildings down here that use water cooling towers. You can tell a building is water cooled just by walking into it. How can you tell?
 The building is only moderately cooled and is pretty humid inside. The mark of water tower cooling in a humid area.

Post# 485921 , Reply# 23   1/2/2011 at 19:22 (2,605 days old) by drmitch ()        

This is interesting, Todd. I suppose these were always very disposeable, so that may be why there aren`t to many around. My wife and I were out house hunting one day and came across a Beaux Arts house with lots of cool and vintage stuff inside. The sunporch had been converted into a poolroom and in one of the windows was what I remember to be a Vornado With the two big circular vents in a dark aqua color. I really wanted it at the time, but it got away. Thats about the only one I have seen in recent years that was worth noting. I think there were some other members here that had several.

Post# 485924 , Reply# 24   1/2/2011 at 20:11 (2,605 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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Well, I actually don't know how old that GE is. It is at least as old as the 1970's. I believe the patio was enclosed in the mid-60's. That's when a lot of other work was done to the house. But of course I don't know where the GE A/C came from. It might have been used before it was installed in its present location high on the wall.

Got me where the filters are supposed to go. I have looked over the inside portion of the unit, as well as what I can see of the outside, and I don't see any removable filters anywhere. I was wondering if they simply were slid in front of the unit, behind the first set of fixed louvers and after the set of three adjustable louvers, but on closer inspection it's clear there isn't enough room up there for filters. Plus there are little cutouts on the first screen to allow one to rotate the three circular louvers to direct air in any desired direction (an idea modern A/C's could emulate).

Probably if there were filters, they slid underneath the outside of the unit. It's difficult to get a good view of that part, since it sits only about a foot above yet another roof, but it's possible that the filters had frames that clipped into two large cutouts underneath the outside of the unit.

In other words, I don't know, and I may never know for sure until I pull the unit down and fix it.

A manual would be nice.

This post was last edited 01/02/2011 at 20:30
Post# 485928 , Reply# 25   1/2/2011 at 20:32 (2,605 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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"The mark of water tower cooling in a humid area."

I thought that some water tower cooling units had actual heat exchangers, so that the interior air was not contaminated by the humidity of the evaporative  system.

Post# 485931 , Reply# 26   1/2/2011 at 20:38 (2,605 days old) by westingman123 ()        
How vintage ya lookin' for?

I have a Whirlpool at the farm, I'm unsure of the BTU's right now, I suspect it is from the early 70's. It's a big old honkin' thing.

Post# 485937 , Reply# 27   1/2/2011 at 21:32 (2,605 days old) by austinado16 ()        

drmitch, that Vornado you saw sounds like the same version that was on ebay a number of years ago. Definately a cool looking unit.

Post# 486043 , Reply# 28   1/3/2011 at 10:44 (2,605 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

 Heat Exchangers

 The insides of the building weren't overly humid, but more humid than buildings air conditioned with conventional air conditioners. They also have a certain odor to them.
  ExxonMobil has an old building built in 1954 in the Greenway Plaza area. I went to lunch with a friend that worked there.  The lobby of this building looks like it was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.  The walls are all "blonde" wood paneling.  And this building definitely has the water cooled odor to it as well as the increased humidity. It's still less humid than the outdoors are, but still more humid than ones with newer a/c.

Post# 486440 , Reply# 29   1/4/2011 at 21:24 (2,603 days old) by mavei ()        

The reason you don't see many antique room air conditioners is that it's simply not cost-effective to restore them.First they're not efficient and drink electricity,next,to prevent you from repairing them,parts are not available and the refrigerants they use(R-12 and R-22) are obsolete and have been eliminated from production. I do not know of any conversion to modern refrigerants(unlike restored refrigerators).

Post# 486453 , Reply# 30   1/4/2011 at 23:06 (2,603 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

true about some of the older A/Cs using quite a bit of power-a big 1958 era GE
i have(forget the BTU rating,but it's 18,000 IIRC)pulls about 12a at 230v-it has
a huge 4pole 1725 rpm compressor and the fan motor is a shaded pole type located
in the inside return air stream,adding it's heat to the cooling load..
For garage cooling,i don't use it that often but it is a real treat to run-just
blasts out super-cooled air and runs with such ease and non-chalance,it's very '50s
my newer A/Cs in general use seem to be much more efficient-77westy,'84 WP,92 WP
'98 fedders.
As far as alternative refrigerants go,i know propane is often used in car A/C
systems that originally used R12-it is said to work great,but there are some
hazards regarding the flammabilty of propane LOL.
I used to have people bring me several A/Cs a year for repair,but since around
2000 when the cheapo korean,then chinese A/Cs started really flooding in,
most people won't spend more than $100 to fix a real one-they just head for

Post# 486463 , Reply# 31   1/5/2011 at 01:14 (2,603 days old) by austinado16 ()        

Just a smidge of propane is used in an automotive R12 replacement product called by the trade name of "Freeze 12." It's mostly just R134a though. I've used it before, and it cools/performs just fine....but I also get good results when converting an R12 system over to straight R134a.

Hopefully I'll come across one of the cool looking 50's era window a/c units one of these days. I'd be fun to have one.

Post# 486472 , Reply# 32   1/5/2011 at 06:10 (2,603 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
I remember reading about someone here...

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Hey Ralph.
That would be me with the 1971 Chrysler Airtemp. Yup... still works.

Here are some pics. I've posted these before.

Post# 486473 , Reply# 33   1/5/2011 at 06:11 (2,603 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Outside the Window.

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This was a very popular sight in New Jesey in the 70's

This outside grill was everywhere

Post# 486474 , Reply# 34   1/5/2011 at 06:16 (2,603 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

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I always liked these switches.

Totally different from the "Norm". No Dials.

Post# 486475 , Reply# 35   1/5/2011 at 06:18 (2,603 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
The Famous Airtemp Logo

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"Climate Engineered by the Chrysler Corporation".

Post# 486476 , Reply# 36   1/5/2011 at 06:21 (2,603 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Window Mounting Frame

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I have no idea why this system got tossed aside.

It really is very clever and can hold quite a bit of weight. This mounting frame was used for the 6,500 BTU through the 18,000 BTU series. No Brackets or supports to screw into the side of the house.

Post# 486477 , Reply# 37   1/5/2011 at 06:24 (2,603 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
The "Isolating Steel Bulkhead" as they described

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This was a "Energy Saving " ( yah right) in the 70's.

You close the "Air Door" for the winter keeping drafts out.

Post# 486512 , Reply# 38   1/5/2011 at 10:08 (2,603 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
Old Window AC units is a regional thing

In less corrosive areas collecting/using an old AC window unit makes more sense:

In the deep south an AC unit can see a lot of usage and humidity compared to say a Coastal California city.

A friend in Camarillo Calif had a early 1970's window AC unit he placed in a window only for the summer time, its usage was little thus the cost of operating not so bad.

Here in the deep south in my House still being rebuilt due to Katrina; my big 5 ton AC unit needs major repairs, thus I have several 10+ EER little 5500 BTUH units to "get by". Running one "little guy" wide open drops the humidity down in major way. Running 3 wide open is not enough on a hot day. One unit running wide open probably sees more hours here than a dryer/cooler area.

As far as how long a new AC unit lasts;

(1) a post Katrina fall 2005 GE 5500BTUH unit made in China lasted 2 years before fatigue failure and low gas.

(2) a post Katrina fall 2005 Maytag 5500BTUH unit made overeseas lasted 2 years before fatigue failure and low gas.

(3) a pre Katrina Whirlpool 5400 BTUH as "spare AC" installed in the Fall of 2005 still runs well, it is made in the USA but has an LG compressor.

(4) a pre Katrina Sears/Whirlpool 5200 BTUH unit installed in 1997 lasted until 2007 before replacement. The inner bushing on the fan would lock up, to oil it required removing it from the window, taking the whole unit apart. this was livable until a reoil would only last 3 weeks, the bushing was worn. One had all these crumbling styrofoam pieces. The outside aluminum fins were 1/2 gone due to salt air. An exact fit fan motor was over 100 bucks; thus the unit got scrapped.

(5) a Zenith (rebranded LG ) AC unit was bought in 2007 to replace (4); it works well and time will tell how long it lasts.

(6) A Sears (whirlpool) 8000 BTUH 9.7 EER AC unit I got in 1994 works well in a barn I have away from this area. It sees little usage; it has no corrosion issues. It has a chance of lasting decades. Its bearings are also easy to oil

(7) a AC unit is my business's shed is only used a few times a year. It is a late 1970's window AC 6000 BTUH unit with woodgrain. Its EER is about 6. Its usage is so low that replacement has no return. It has to have its fan oiled every few years, but is old school and the motors bearings are easy to get to.

As far as repairs; nobody locally can fix a window unit with low gas and it make any sense money wise.

With my businesses one window unit used for peak times; repairing the whirlpool box that has a 18,000 to 21,000 size was tried, and one spent more cost than a new AC unit. Thus with this unit one got use to buying one every 3 to 4 years; disposables. Even if one has the older unit "fixed" after years; the fins are usually a mess and disposible.

The super thin aluminum and salt air and high humidity makes for massive corrosion. The newer units that "splash back" condensed water on the outside coil seem to corrode way faster here. It is not just the repair cost here; it is fixing a unit that is degraded with missing fin area.

In the long term running a window ac unit is expensive compared to central air; and running a degraded one is worse. The degraded units just run more; put out less cooling and draw the same power.

Running a brand new 5500 BTUH window unit here wide open in the summer will use in 2 months the same cost in electricity as the units cost. ie one burns 100 bucks of electricity in 2 months with a 100 buck ac unit. With a unit low on gas or with degraded fins that are mostly gone, you still burn through 100 bucks worth of elecricity here in two months; but get 1/2 the cooling. A brand new unit recovers its cost in 1/2 year.

Running an old window AC unit here with an EER of 6 is like driving a car that gets 6 miles per gallon, maybe ok for "crusin the coast" with an old 1950's hot rod car, less practical on a daily basis.

In many window AC units here that I have removed for cleaning, the newer ones seem to be more disposable. ie thinner aluminum fins, water splash design for higher EER, GLUED IN STYROFOAM, pressed in pieces, riveted parts, inner bearing not easy to get to at all. A typical "failure mode" is the inner bearing has water enter; the steel shaft rusts and now it has little clearance in the brass bushing. One can spend 1 hour in time to take the whole unit apart to polish the shaft. Then one has to glue the broken styrofoam pieces; bolt the ground off riveted pieces. An older unit often was built with more fan area and non spashing and thicker fins and easy access to oil the fan motor.


Post# 486549 , Reply# 39   1/5/2011 at 13:41 (2,603 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

i have had to junk only 2 of my personal A/Cs over the years;
'86 airtemp(fedders)7500 btu;rubber damper pad on pipe to compressor came
off and let pipe vibrate and crack-refrigerant hissed out,unit sounded
"funny"running and wouldn't cool...
'72 coldspot 5000 btu;compressor seized-fan motor then went into a '79
coronado 5000 btu,my garage workroom A/C.
No real corrosion problems in my area,so still quite a few decades old
A/Cs still on the job around here...

Post# 487618 , Reply# 40   1/9/2011 at 16:58 (2,598 days old) by sambootoo (Moody, AL)        

Here are my 2. Both work as they should, are very quiet, and are used occasionally in my workshop. First up is a 1960's GE, rather bottom of the line but gets the job done

Post# 487621 , Reply# 41   1/9/2011 at 17:02 (2,598 days old) by sambootoo (Moody, AL)        

Then the 1957 Coldspot "Slenderette" model. Not currently installed but I crank it up periodically the keep the juices flowing and keep looking for the opportunity to put it to use somewhere.

Post# 488067 , Reply# 42   1/10/2011 at 20:32 (2,597 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

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The GE A/C

We had a 15,000 BTU in our living room in NJ. Spine Fin Coil, Quiet for that era, Very Low air flow but would cool that house from 90 degrees on a hot day down to 68 in about 2.5 hours.

Unbelievable Just Love the Old Days. And... Made right here in the USA when everyone had jobs. (Sigh)

Post# 488100 , Reply# 43   1/10/2011 at 21:59 (2,597 days old) by austinado16 ()        

The rotatable grills are very cool. Gee, who thought it was a good idea to get away from that design?

Post# 488152 , Reply# 44   1/11/2011 at 09:53 (2,597 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        

One issue is fixing up an older AC as a sense of history, another is actually using them all the time in a hot area of the country and going broke.

The EER rating on a unit that is more than 25 years old was often not the greatest.

The up side is an older AC often is easier to work on, its fan motor often has oiling ports.

A 1960's AC window unit in a little house I rented in the 1970's had an EER of about 4.5, but the electric rate was just 2.2 cents per KWhour thus not an issue.

If I had that same AC today and ran it the cost would be double. Thus if one uses it intermittantly and burned 10 bucks, it would be only 5 with a modern AC.

If one used it all the time one might spend 150 per month versus just 75 with a modern AC, thus the old AC would be more noticeable.

In a AC course I took in school back in the 1970's, the window AC units data had BTUH/watts with numbers in the 3 to 8 region, with many units in the 6 range. Here I still have a some units in the EER in the 3 to 6 region, they often are just too expensive to run anymore.

Post# 488704 , Reply# 45   1/13/2011 at 14:13 (2,595 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)        
Vintage Packard Bell A/C

This unit sat unused for over 40 years in an unused cabin with the exposed end in a covered porch.

Very simple design.

I would turn it on once every few years till we sold the property.

Still works like new.

Post# 488730 , Reply# 46   1/13/2011 at 16:15 (2,594 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
The Fox Theatre in Atlanta, GA.

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The Fox still runs it's 1946 Carrier AC system. It's a massive and VERY effective system. The intake IS the basement beneath the auditorium. The intake air passes through a water shower and then through the evaporator coils. It's a fascinating system and I was privileged to see it from inside and out while it was running. Surprisingly, it's efficiency is actually pretty good.

I love this old technology, it's just overflowing with innovation unlike anything else seen today,

Post# 488821 , Reply# 47   1/13/2011 at 23:32 (2,594 days old) by A440 ()        
Awesome AC Units!

You guys have incredible units! (wink)
I love the GE and the Coldspot! There was a home I lived in as a child that had a similar GE to the one above. It was a little bigger. Dark brown front and the discharge vents were about the same. Outside the fan was exposed in the front. I loved that. I agree. It was a very cold AC. I have passed several homes here in Atlanta that still have these GE AC's running during the summer. They were built to last.
I would love to experience the Coldspot. Looks like it means business. I bet is sounds great! Was the Coldspot built by Whirlpool?
About the Fox Atlanta Carrier System. It is awesome!
If you go there in 95 degree temps to watch a performance, you can feel it working. It is like a cold fog. Wonderful and I agree very effective.

Post# 490259 , Reply# 48   1/19/2011 at 22:26 (2,588 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
Are you sure it's *WHOM*? That is an indirect object pro

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Speaking of large, powerful impressive units........

What is that long pink tubluar latex cellopahne-wrapped item under the 1957 Coldspot "Slenderette" model?

Er uh uhm.. I meant to say actually, my parents had a 1974/1975 Sears Coldspot 23,000 BTU/h through-the wall air-condtioner. It was capable of cooling 6 rooms. It had an EER of 6.0. Today, Energy Efficiency Ratios of 10 to 12 BTUs (moved) per watt is more the norm.

23,000 BTUs @ 6 BTUs per watt means it drew 3,833 watts. At 220v it used 17.42 amps. 16 amps maximum(80%) are allowed on a 20a circuit. This beast required a 220v 30a circut and had a huge plug the size [and configuration] of an (American) electric dryer's.

It should be noted BTW that the power draw of an air-conditiner varies somewhat based on the temperature of the condenser. (Read: the temp. of OUTDOOR air drawn over it to cool it and take away the heat pulled out of the (air-conditoned) home/room.

EERs are sort of misleading. Older units had smaller coils and I do believe dehumdified better because the evaporator(inside coil) got much colder. So in terms of measuring the work done per watt, moving heat is only part of the story, I'd say. One must consider the dehumdiifcation as well

This unit had a fresh-air intake and a stale-air exhaust. The bad thing about using a stale-air exhaust as part of an air-conditioner is that air one has just paid to cool and dehumidiy is what the air-conditioner is pushing out of the house/room.

Post# 490327 , Reply# 49   1/20/2011 at 09:32 (2,588 days old) by westingman123 ()        

It sounds like that Fox uses the same swamp cooler system our Fox uses. It is a sight to see, those huge paddles stirring all that water around. On a side note; there is a HUGE central vac system as well. Those 1920's theaters were state-of-the art, eh?

Post# 490329 , Reply# 50   1/20/2011 at 09:34 (2,588 days old) by westingman123 ()        

It's a paint roller, silly man. One would think your mind was not focused on appliances.

Post# 490353 , Reply# 51   1/20/2011 at 11:52 (2,588 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
"through-the wall air-condtioners" that fit in a fra

In "through-the wall air-condtioners" here I use in a building are a whirlpool/sears frame size that is now obsolete.

The box was placed through the wall back in 1993.
Its first unit was 24,000 and an EER of 8.5,
a later unit was 21,000 and an EER of 9.0,
the last two have been 18,000 with an EER of 10.

All have the same frame and pan, the "smaller" BTUH units have a higher EER since the coils are about all the same in size.

The first 24,000 unit ran for 1.5 years before the compressor would short cycle. The compressor was replaced under warranty and it lasted 2 years.

With salt corrosion and the "splashing" used on the higher EER models, the outside fins "go away" with time. Thus after 3 to 5 years the unit's EER is way less and it is cheaper to throw it away.

This unit would be on many hours in the hot summer, I have an electric watthour meter on its plug.

During the summer one month would record say 500 to 1000 Kwhr, ie about 65 to 130 bucks. 100 bucks per month was a good average cost if this unit was run. When the units are real old say 3 to 5 years and the coils all corroded, it basically has a lower EER thus would be running a higher duty cycle.

Thus one would be wasting 50 to 70 bucks more with a ruined (degraded) unit, and thus buying a new one at Lowes for 300 to 450 was done, and the energy hog shot and buried. The math was not complex, one would wait for a super sale and swap out the unit and one got way more cooling and a lower KWHR's used. The payback would be one hot seasons usage.

Today I use a mini split AC, the old window unit is only for peaks on rare occasions. It got to where the "through-the wall" form factor on mine was dropped, and the old one I built into a wall. To get a working new AC required buying a new old stock AC unit on ebay.

Repairing a window AC unit that here is old and corroded would be like reusing used toilet paper, or fixing old windex squirt bottles, or having somebody rebuild ones old CFL bulbs, or reusing a 20 to 40 year old water heater. Even a pulled 18,000 EER 10 window unit that is just 2 years old and clean up low on gas and delivered to a AC repair place is an unwanted "thing" that few will want to mess with. My own experience is that these AC's are disposable. v

Post# 490360 , Reply# 52   1/20/2011 at 12:28 (2,588 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, Iowa)        

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Early last summer I was over at my parents, helping them with a bathroom remodel. My father asked if I'd help the little old lady across the street by removing her old air conditioner from her home.

I walked into the house to see this fantastic 1970 GM Frigidaire 19,000 BTU (20A 240v) beast! To say it keeps my main floor cool is an understatement.

Post# 490362 , Reply# 53   1/20/2011 at 12:29 (2,588 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, Iowa)        

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Post# 490373 , Reply# 54   1/20/2011 at 13:28 (2,588 days old) by 112561 (River Park, in Port St. Lucie, Florida)        

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I would love that Frigidaire! I love that BOL GE, the Coldspot, and the Packard Bell too.

Post# 490383 , Reply# 55   1/20/2011 at 14:41 (2,588 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Don't let the new models fool you....the Higher EER's is supposed to be more energy efficient....what it really means is similar to many new washers, the cooling is dubbed select ice cold, and only get moderate coolness....the new machines aren't built better, just dubbed down to give you the idea that its built energy efficient, and alls the manufacturers did was not allow you to turn the thermostat down to a cooler setting.....

the older machines do give you better cooling, in any event, true coolness for energy used as YOU select, not the manufacturer......

not sure about the newer units made today......but on my 1980's kenmores, I can open the control panel up, and with an allen wrench, adjust the thermostat to give me a cooler setting, and it does not run as long.......

At Mom's house I have a 30,000BTU unit, cools the entire house, only runs for a few minutes every hour, in auto setting, this unit is very loud, but better to run for a few loud minutes than having several 5000 to 7000 BTU units in every room running all the electric bill is never over 80.00 in the summer months.....

Post# 490386 , Reply# 56   1/20/2011 at 14:54 (2,588 days old) by austinado16 ()        
Interesting concept

So are you saying a 10,000btu "modern EER" type unit is not producing 10,000btu? Or are you saying; it's still a 10,000btu unit, but it doesn't blow as cold, so it runs-and-runs-and-runs in order produce that 10k, where an old unit would only have to run very little in order to produce the same amount of cooling?

I feel similarly about our 1952 Philco refrigerator. It hardly ever runs, and prior to my vintage 70 gallon aquarium being part of our electricity consumption, our electric bill was rock solid at about $48/mo for a 1,200sq.ft. victorian....and that electric load includes the 1959 Kitchen Aid KD-12 dishwasher, and the 1953 Westinghouse front loaders w/ 220v dryer.

I'll be interested to see what the bill does now that I've added a 1957ish GE undercabinet freezer to the daily consumption.

Post# 490406 , Reply# 57   1/20/2011 at 16:26 (2,587 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        

Buy into the notion that the old AC s are energy hogs, you get what you pay for, ice cold air is worth more than something running all the time and doing a marginal job, the old ones, like old refrigerators are quieter colder and last much longer, to my mind there is no comparison.

Post# 490408 , Reply# 58   1/20/2011 at 16:29 (2,587 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Remember that air conditioners don't so much make cold ... they move heat, from one place to another (inside the house to outside).  The BTU rating of an air conditioner is the amount of heat it moves in an hour.  BTU/HR.  An "old" and a "new" unit (both being in new condition of course) both rated at 10,000 BTU should produce the same amount of cooling ... unless the manufacturer is outright fibbing on the capacity.


Higher airflow rate through the evaporator coil reduces the amount of moisture that is condensed out of the air, related to latent heat content.  Lower airflow condenses more moisture.  I've noticed there's less difference between higher and lower fan speeds on newer units.


BTU is a unit of heat, the amount of heat required raise (or lower, I suppose) the temperature of 1 pound of (liquid) water by 1°F at 1 atmosphere pressure.  A "ton" of cooling is 12,000 BTU/hr, approximately equal to one short ton (2,000 pounds) of ice melting over 24 hrs.

Post# 490457 , Reply# 59   1/20/2011 at 21:02 (2,587 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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This is where it paid to date someone in the A/C field........

10,000BTU is still 10,000BTU.......but allowing you to use its full potential is what energy saving is all about......

lets take a easier step to understand....central air is controlled by a numbered would normally have it at 72 degrees...but to save energy you could turn it up to 74 degrees....not so much colder, but you save energy by raising the temp......on a window unit, all you mostly get is a number of 1 to 10, 10 being coldest, now the manufacturers, from behind the control panel, have raised the lowest temp available to only about the number 8, even though you selected 10, air is cool and comfortable, but you may want it a bit colder, now you have run out of selection, and the compressor won't come on until the room warms up.....but from behind the control panel is the thermostat, with a little screw, that can make that machine cool the room to a lower temp......and now you have complete control of how much energy it uses, and how cold you want the room to be......

think of this adjustment that we do to many washing machines water level....the manufacturer didn't make the machine use less energy, all they did was dub down the hot water mixture, and lower the water having a super capacity machine, that only allows you to wash 3/4 size of a load, raising the water level allows you control of washing a full machines potential load.....look at the new Speed Queen TL, 3.3 cu ft tub, but from the manufacturers set water level, you cannot wash a 3.3 cu ft load.....more like 2.5....but theres potential to raise the water level and achieve a 3.3 cu ft load washed effectively....

I have a feeling you guys need to see a pic of a thermostat of one of my machines....I have 2 newer A/C's that now cool the rooms as effectively as the machines they replaced from the 70' first they did not...

Post# 490488 , Reply# 60   1/21/2011 at 00:37 (2,587 days old) by austinado16 ()        

I'm familiar with those t-stats and I suspect they are similar to what's used in automotive a/c systems......which I have adjusted, as you describe.

Interesting info, and I think the next time I trip over a fake wood grain window A/C unit at a yard sale or the swap meet, I'm going to buy it, just to bring it home and compare it to my 1999 Kenmore 10,000btu 110v unit.

Post# 490491 , Reply# 61   1/21/2011 at 02:10 (2,587 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Window unit thermostats are of three types: 1) bi-metal (a little 5.5K BTU Friedrich I have uses this type); 2) capillary; 3) electronic/thermistor on "modern" units.

Capillary type is most common on older units and up until electronics came into play. It functions similarly to a water level switch, and like many oven thermostats. A sealed tube is filled with a temperature-sensitive gas (or liquid) which expands/contracts to exert pressure on a diaphram to trigger the switch contacts. The usual temperature range (or it was in the past when I was working in the business) is about 60°F to 90°F, which puts 75°F at mid-position. My grandmother's 16K BTU Friedrich heat/cool unit bought in 2004 seems to fit that range. She's rather cold-natured so doesn't need much air conditioning, 78° to 80°F is all she can take without complaining about being too chilled, which is around "10:30AM" on the dial.

Post# 490566 , Reply# 62   1/21/2011 at 12:09 (2,587 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
Some of us pay our electric bills and have watthour meters o

RE "I DONT!! Buy into the notion that the old AC s are energy hogs, you get what you pay for, ice cold air is worth more than something running all the time and doing a marginal job, the old ones, like old refrigerators are quieter colder and last much longer, to my mind there is no comparison. "

There is low law that says one cannot still drive a car that gets 8u miles per gallon; or use a 1970 AC that has an EER of 5 to 6.

If the device is not used much; the loss in cash is not much.

Here in the deep south, an 18,000 BTUH window unit with an EER of 10 can burn 100 bucks worth of juice in August. If you want to use a 1970 unit with an ERR of 5, you just pay 100 bucks extra here. Since money matters here, the lossy old AC or lossy corroded AC is often thrown in the trash, or sold as scrap. One buys a modern AC and it pays for itself in one hot season.

If the same 1970 AC is in a cabin in Minnesota, maybe it only runs a few weekends a year. Thus the unit's lossy ways do not matter since one really hardly uses them at all.

Yet another late 1960's 2x4' AC unit in the ceiling tiles here is a total HOG for electrical usage. I have TWO of these dinos that have not been used in years. The 2nd one has two AC 230 volt fans, one for the condenser, one for the evaporator. The 15,000 BTU beast weights about 280 Lbs. The wiring used is #8 wire. Unit #2 had an EER of 4 in 1968, thus that 15,000 BTUH drew 3750 watts, ie with all the inductive motors the amp draw is about 25 to 30 amps at 230 volts. At start the amps locked rotor are about 100 to 120 thus it has #8 wire. Thus #2 unit has a watthour meter connected to it too. To run this in the summer is about 50 cents an hour, ie 12 bucks a day. To run it all the time for one month burns up over 300 dollars, BUT it is such a corroded mess that its actual heat transfer is only about 1/2. Thus to run this obsolete beast 1 month today costs over 300 bucks and one really just gets about 7500 BTUH. In its place is a split AC that runs on just 120 volts and puts out 14,000 BTUH with just about 1000 watts. The new unit just is about 6 to 8 times more efficient than the old worn out beast. The new unit cycles and thus its 14,000 BTUH keeps the one room cold and it shuts off. The old unit with its 1968 ERR of 4 and half its coils now mush cannot keep up on a HOT DAY.

The savings for a business like mine are actually way better since I have demand meters. On a mild day both the old Unit#2 and new split can "keep up"; ie the old units 7500 BTUH is enough.

BUT on a mild day running the old beast makes the demand increase by 4 Kw; the new one by just 1 Kw. The added 3Kw of using the obsolete AC not only burns more kilowatts, it throws my bill into a higher rate structure. It adds to all my other items. Thus running that beast is not just an kilowatt increase; it is a rate column increase.

If I run both old 2x4 ceiling AC's from the 1960s; the extra demand is 8Kw versus just 2 of running the modern mini spits.

Yet another reason is that during Hurricane season; the modern 14,000 BTUH mini splits will run off a moderate generator. The ceiling units require a generator about 5 times larger to start just one.

If both 1960's 2x4' ceiling units are run "for old times sake"; the amp draw is 50 to 60 amps at 230 volts, to get just about 15,000 BTUH, thus somewhat nuts.

Here I have actual watthour meters on my AC units. During the summer the majority of the cost is due to AC units. If I ran all the old AC units "for old times sake"; I would have a 1400 buck bill versus a 600 buck ac bill at my business. Thus turning off the 1960's ac and using a modern mini split is not a hard decision if it saves one 400 per month per room.

Here I have tools and devices that are energy efficient to total hogs too. I tend to use the hogs less if there is to be many hours of usage.

Post# 490573 , Reply# 63   1/21/2011 at 12:41 (2,587 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
AC EER numbers from 1998; even todays machines beat these nu

Here is some data for some new AC units of 1998

5000 BTUH EER 7* 115 volts 7.8 amps

5900 BTUH EER 8 115 volts 7.0 amps

8000 BTUH EER 9 115 volts 8 amps

12000 BTUH EER 8 115 volts 14 amps

18000 BTUH EER 9 230 volts 9.7 amps

21000 BTUH EER 8.0 230 volts 12.4 amps

25000 BTUH EER 8.0 230 volts 16.5 amps

In some states the rule of a minimum of 8 was not in effect at first below a certain BTUH level. Thus in these states one would see sub EER 8 units, ie 6 to 7 ish even until a decade ago. In the same late 1990's era 1990 sears/whirlpool had a EER 10.5 5200 BTUH unit I got. One paid 130 bucks for a better EER versus 85 for the then made in usa ac of the 1970's EER level.

Post# 490579 , Reply# 64   1/21/2011 at 12:53 (2,587 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
EERR/SEER increases versus the decades

When energy was cheaper many 1970's window units I have seen the specs were in the 6 range. A friends cabin had a 8000 BTUH unit with an EER of 6 and it was an early 1970's unit.

The split AC unit on my California apartment built in 1971 was a 1.5 ton R22 unit, ie 18,000 BTUH. It drew about exactly 2800 watts, thus the BTUH/watts= 6.4

A gulf coast 5 ton AC split unit here from 1970 had an EER of about 7

A gulf coast 5 ton AC split unit here from 1985 has an EER of about 8.5 (it still works and is was called super high efficiency unit back in 1985)

A gulf coast 5 ton AC split unit here from 1992 has an EER of about 10.0

Today one cannot even buy a unit with a SEER rating below 13.

Post# 490580 , Reply# 65   1/21/2011 at 13:03 (2,587 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)        
Packard Bell

The tag on the Packard Bell shows a 3/4 hp compressor so that's about 7500 btu's.

The entire unit on a hot day pulls 10.6 amps.

I'm pretty sure that this unit is late 40's to very early 50's.

Post# 490581 , Reply# 66   1/21/2011 at 13:04 (2,587 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)        
Packard Bell


Post# 490582 , Reply# 67   1/21/2011 at 13:05 (2,587 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)        
Packard Bell


Post# 490584 , Reply# 68   1/21/2011 at 13:09 (2,587 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)        
Packard Bell

Without the wood cabinet.

The evaporator blower is a four bladed fan, not a squirrel cage.

Post# 490594 , Reply# 69   1/21/2011 at 14:14 (2,587 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
Nice unit

Your machine looks like a nice roomy machine to restore. I guess it has the typical horizontal AC fan motor with two long shafts with a 4 bladed fan at each end. ie one for evaporator, one for condenser. My mid 1980's 8000 BTUH Sears/ Whirlpool is like this and same R22 too.

Post# 490599 , Reply# 70   1/21/2011 at 14:36 (2,587 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)        
Packard Bell

No, 2 seperate motors..

The evap fan is in its own chamber where it can pull air through the filter at the bottom or pull in outside air through a small door that opens on the side.

Post# 490601 , Reply# 71   1/21/2011 at 14:40 (2,587 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)        
Packard Bell

The condenser fan blade has a outer ring around the blades.

The condenser itself is the only part of the unit that has really deteriorated.

Post# 490616 , Reply# 72   1/21/2011 at 16:20 (2,586 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
ah a paint-roller pad cover.I dont think I have seen one cel

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By the way my painter has informed me that the BEST pant brushes are CHINESE... It's human hair. And that the best paint rollers are lamb's wool and are usually from Greece. (FEH the Greeks know about sheep I have been told). LOL

Quote: At Mom's house I have a 30,000 BTU unit, cools the entire house, only runs for a few minutes every hour in auto setting. This unit is very loud, but better to run for a few loud minutes than having several 5,000 to 7,000 BTU units in every room running all the electric bill is never over $80 in the summer months.....

You may have a slow meter.

An over-sized air-condtioner gives you a cold and clammy room/house; it doesn't run enough to dehumidify.

A better solution is, IMHO get a 5,000 BTU/h unit to supplement the big one and let it run full-time. The litle one will dehumidify (while cooling "a little") and the big one will cycle off and and off to keep the place cool, temperture-wise.

Post# 490620 , Reply# 73   1/21/2011 at 16:52 (2,586 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
Thanks for the Photos showing the 2 motors

Your rear motor ie "The condenser fan blade has a outer ring around the blades." is the same as my 8000 BTUH whirlpool and actually a brand new old stock 18000 unit too; but they also extend the shaft to drive the front fan blade too.

Today's 5000 BTUH units have tyoically about the same looking "outer ring around the blades" hole too; but the front is a squirrel cage fan blade.

Your outside condensor looks like some of mine that have been used for 1 or 2 seasons, but I have salt water in my backyard. A vacuuming can help the airflow. There is extra/reserve fin area when an ac unit is built, many designs still work Ok with alot gone. If you are too aggressive and use water spray, sometimes the fins get bent or crap goes deeper into the fins. Your units fins looks perfect compared to the two units I have in the ceiling from 1968, you can push your fingers thru and the vac pulls out entire sections. A typical modern window AC unit here often has thin fins, both the new GE and Maytag 5200 BTUH units I got in the fall of 2005 looked worse than yours when they were scrapped about 2008.

An ideal way for an AC unit here where humidity is high is to have stages of AC units, ie variable displacement. Thus if one really only needs 8000 BTUH at night; a cycling unit with 12000 capacity can keep a house at 70 F; or a 5 ton 60,000 BTUH unit too. The little guy that runs longer will pull out more water.

Post# 490625 , Reply# 74   1/21/2011 at 17:05 (2,586 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
Evil trip to boost EER that degrades the fins quicker here

Some units 3 to 5 year old units *here* that "look ok" from the outside and when opened to oil the motor are found to be "so far gone" that one doesnt attempt to fix them; they go into the dumpster or recycle bin.

The fins are 1/2 gone on the high efficency units.

One has an evil combo of salt air, hot temperature and water constantly being splashed on the fins.

To drop the cost and keep the EER decent the exit fan blades scoop up the condensed water and thrown it at the condensers fins.

This makes the thermal cycle better, but at least here makes the fins corrode quicker. If one punches a hole and lets the water drain and not pool the fins will last longer here, but the EER is less.

One may notice how small some of the 5000 type AC units are today, the small package uses less copper tubing too, thin fins makes the fins here like a FRONT LOADERS ALUMINUM SPIDER, ie they corrode away.

In dry Los Angeles with only 10 inches of rain per year; the same 100 buck 5200BTUH Chinese window unit might 5 decades, here often it is several years

Post# 490636 , Reply# 75   1/21/2011 at 18:05 (2,586 days old) by kimball455 (Cape May, NJ)        
Large Cabinet Commercial AC units

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I remember those huge usually Carrier or York units being installed in the 1950 in restaurants and bars here in Cape May.'The Shore Bar, now AIR CONDITIONED for your comfort'. Water was not metered and in many cases it simply went through the condenser and down the drain. The first AC unit at the post office had the classic wood slat water tower. The opened in 1950 Beach Theatre claimed to be the first air conditioned theatre south of Atlantic City. I had several window units in my Victorian but replaced everything with mini splits a few years ago. Don't have to cool the entire house on many days in summer here at the shore but want the bedrooms to be cool and dry. The mini splits give me the zoning capability to do that. Boardwalk Hall Atlantic City now gets its chilled water for AC from a 17,000 ton central plant that also supplies several of the casinos with both steam and chilled water.

Post# 490855 , Reply# 76   1/22/2011 at 19:47 (2,585 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        
RE "Water was not metered

RE "Water was not metered and in many cases it simply went through the condenser and down the drain."

I think what you are saying is they cooled the condenser with free water from the city's water supply .

The house I live in now did not have a water meter until roughly 1976, before that totally unmetered.

My dad's house he grew up in the 1920's had a water powdered washing machine driven by a water motor. it was a Coffield, made in Dayton Ohio.


Post# 490861 , Reply# 77   1/22/2011 at 20:46 (2,585 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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I know what your saying about the humidity level, and I thought about the unit being overkill for the size of the house.......but first the unit is placed in regular fan mode when first turned on, after the rooms and surroundings have cooled, then it is placed in AUTO, and maintains moisture and coolness very well, I was main concern for a large unit was Mom cooks alot, and usually large meals, and canning during the summer, and I wanted something to be able to handle the extra heat from the stove, if needed.....there are 12,000BTU units in her bedroom and in mine if I wanted to cycle units around, but their mainly used at night before bed to really chill down the rooms for sleep, and then turned off for the rest of the far everything has been at a comfortable level...

Post# 713056 , Reply# 78   11/3/2013 at 21:09 (1,569 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

Sudsmaster and 2packs4sure, do you guys have photos of the outsides of these units by any chance? im curious as to what they look like from the outside. I own a 1955 GE so i may be able to help you figure out the settings providing the knobs are the same. this looks to be even older than mine! im thinking 1954at the latest. and as for that Packard Bell, thats a very interesting one as well. 2 fan motors!? thats most definitly early 50's, and perhaps, like you said, 1940's.

This thread is filled with awesome units. Nice Chrysler Airtemp too! as well as the GE, Coldspot, and any others i forgot to mention. they just dont make them like they used to.

Post# 713200 , Reply# 79   11/4/2013 at 17:22 (1,568 days old) by williepeck (Tucson )        
Emerson quit kool

A 90's Emerson quit kool air conditiner. This was made by fedders. You can tell because it has the general fedders case on the outside With 3 down discharge vents on the back. Sorry about my finger on the top left corner.

Post# 713209 , Reply# 80   11/4/2013 at 18:23 (1,568 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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oddly is the time to get a new one on clearance....or find vintage ones people are removing for the winter, in hopes of getting a new one next season.....

they seem to be all over on CL, yard sales and flea markets.......kenmores from the 80's always seemed to be quietest to me....

Post# 713500 , Reply# 81   11/6/2013 at 06:10 (1,567 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

One thing about older ac units was that they produced colder air (probably because of the refrigerant) than the newer ones and were therefore better or at least quicker at dehumidifying.

Post# 713531 , Reply# 82   11/6/2013 at 12:17 (1,567 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

Do we have any members who work in HVAC and get pics of old heating/ac stuff? I think that would be interesting.

Post# 713585 , Reply# 83   11/6/2013 at 19:02 (1,566 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

My most prized one so far is the Philco Ford I acquired a few months back. It has the Air Scan feature that automatically moves the vents and sweeps the air back and forth.

Post# 713588 , Reply# 84   11/6/2013 at 19:06 (1,566 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

And, heres what it looks like from the outside! I chose the photo of it without the unit inside of it just because this is the clearest image. I have photos up on flickr of it. this was taken right after I painted the case after the restoration. this thing was in horrible condition when I got it, now it looks new.

Post# 713658 , Reply# 85   11/7/2013 at 09:24 (1,566 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Very nice unit and restoration. What are the specs?

Post# 713686 , Reply# 86   11/7/2013 at 12:21 (1,566 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Philco A/C

toploader55's profile picture
Would that be from the "Noiseless" series ?

None the less, it's a beauty. Great Restoration.

Post# 713783 , Reply# 87   11/7/2013 at 21:21 (1,565 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        
Philco Ford Noiseless Air Conditioner

This is an 11,000 BTU Unit, and runs off of 110 Volts. It is indeed part of the Noiseless series, and it is a very smooth and quiet running machine. Its a very very interesting story on how I went about Acquiring the unit. took me years to find one and over a year to get it once I mad a move on one I knew about.

This unit here is a 1971 Model. This is my favorite front grille design of all the Philco Noiseless units. There are many possible front covers. This one also has the Air Scan echanism. really cool feature! The larger sized Noiseless units have the control panel on the left like this one, and smaller ones have it on the right. I believe both styles are 27" long, which is wider than most full sized units, but the lager one is just a little taller. Also, by the outside you can tell because the larger ones have the 3 diffuser vents on the left (if you are looking at it from behind) like the one I posted, and smaller ones have the 3 vents on the right but the vents as well as the condenser are behind a protective screen, unlike the large ones as you can see have exposed condenser coils and vents.

I have a Youtube video made of it showing how it looked when I got it, and tells about the acquisition of it, and I also have one of it when its all done and nice looking again like new. also there is one I made of just the front grille to demonstrate the Air Scan. This particular unit has gained the interest of quite a few people. Its a shame they don't make any thing like this now days.

Here is in acquired condition before I did anything to it:

Here it is all fixed up:

And here is the awesome front grille:

PS: A fellow collector gave me another knob so now its not missing the thermostat knob its 100% complete now!!

I also have many photos up of it on my Flickr photostream, for those who don't like youtube. heres the link to the main photo set page. The Philco Ford section is the third icon, there are several photos of before and after shots of the project as well as other Philco Ford units.

My youtube channel is all units I own, Flickr has photos of all the units I own, but most are ones I find or take myself of units that are not mine. I apologize for all the links but this is a subject I can go on and on about any day haha!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO rstacey1990's LINK

Post# 713801 , Reply# 88   11/7/2013 at 22:40 (1,565 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
It amuses me!

To hear appliance salesmen tell people how much they will save if they replace their energy wasting appliances...what they dont tell you about are the service calls that the new stuff will need, and they certainly dont tell you you will have to buy a new one in a few years!! An example, in my hometown, a house built in 1950 has the original Waterbury oil furnace, I used to service it, it has the original burner motor and blower motor, it has had a primary control replaced as well as a ignition 63 years, it still runs quietly and cleanly, their is no sign of any smoke or soot in that house, if it was replaced, it would cost around 8000.00 or so to put in a completely new system, ducts and all, and you might get 8 or 10 years out of it before it fell apart, yeah, it probably will cost less to eun a new gas furnace, but you can still buy a lot of oil for 8000.00!Those old window units will outlast this junk on the market today by many years!

Post# 713858 , Reply# 89   11/8/2013 at 06:33 (1,565 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Good Lord Russ !!!

toploader55's profile picture
What a Beautiful restoration.

The sound of that compressor running sent me back to when I was a teenager in NJ and used to love walking around on a hot day looking and listening to all the different models hanging out of windows or through walls. I especially liked watching how much condensate would be dripping if not pouring out of some of the units.

Quiet Quality.

We had quite the assortment of units in our house.

We had a 15,000 GE in the Living Room, we had a 1 ton Fedders in my parent's room, I had a 5,000 Westy MobileAir that I replaced with a 6500 Airtemp (Pics on this thread) and a 13,000 Fedders upstairs on the second floor.

2 years ago, I bought a 8,000 Friedrich thinking it was made in Texas. NOPE. Made in China. Replaced it through warranty after 1 season, and the second one is full of rattles and vibration noises, the airsweep makes a clicking noise when on, I just threw in the towel and would leave it on the coldest setting while I was at work then shut it off when I got home.

I am renting now and the window can't accomodate the Airtemp but the last time I fired it up 3 years ago, it was blowing Ice Cold Air.

I'll spend a day checking out your Flickr Page soon. Nice to see a Young Man that appreciates the way things were made Long before you were born.

Post# 713874 , Reply# 90   11/8/2013 at 09:18 (1,565 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Nice to see other Flickr contacts and air conditioner fans joining! 


So far, I have accumulated a few units. An early-1960s 9,000 BTU Carrier I got about 20 years ago. 


A small 8,000 BTU Frigidaire from 1971

1971 Frigidaire air conditioner

A 1967 7,800 BTU Frigidaire that Martin found for me.

1967 Frigidaire a/c installed.

A huge 12,600 BTU 1974 Frigidaire, this thing is so big that I couldn't fit it in my car's trunk when I got it! 

1974 Frigidaire air conditioner

A smaller 15,000 BTU 240V Montgomery Ward Signature that I got with Paul on our way to Boston a few weeks ago. 

Montgomery Ward Signature 15,000 BTU a/c

Post# 714020 , Reply# 91   11/8/2013 at 20:48 (1,564 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

norgeway: I agree 110%! appliance salesmen drive me nuts. I was in lowes looking for side panels for a 7700 BTU EQK that I have, and gave to my sister to use in her place, and I asked where they kept parts and they started with asking how old the unit is. I said well over 30 years old and right away it was time to talk me into buying a new one. I said the things that old and working flawlessly for a reason. its built well. I said them piece of shit units theyre trying to sell me wont last a fraction of that.

toploader55: thank you so much for your feedback. I really appreciate that. The fact that people actually care about these kind of things is what keeps me going with it. I really started to get serious with it in the last year and a half, although I have been into air conditioners for as long as I can remember. it goes back to the old Large EQK that was in the house when my dad bought it in 1985. unfortunately it was replaced in 1997 with one of the last line of good units. at least it was a decent replacement. the unit that replaced it was a Fedders made Airtemp. This unit is what started it all. it was my mission to get an old EQK and I found one then found another with the 2 drain holes and one vent on the front grille instead of the one I had which had one drain hole and 2 vents on the front grille. I then moved on to trying to find a Fedders with the weather wheel which I found last July in New York, then I was focusing mainly on the Philco Ford which I got this August. now im looking for a Medium Sized Sears Coldspot, and a particular Hotpoint unit. I have photos of both on my Flickr Page.

PhilR: You have a mighty fine pile of Air Conditioners there! they are all favorites on Flickr. Thanks for all the support and feedback you have given me since I started the Flickr page.

Its great to see all the interest in vintage appliances in general. Im hoping to learn a few things about other types of appliances on this site here. There seems to be a lot of very knowledgeable people on here,The girl thinks im nuts! LOL but at least shes cool with it and don't try to stop me from my acquisitions.

I will attach photos of my 2 most wanted units. Hopefully they will show up on CL or become available to me sometime. The Coldspot will probably be easier to acquire. much more common. The Hotpoint should look pretty much exact. the Coldspot may have a different design on the front grille but should have the same set up (control panel on top left and vents next to it) some control panels have push buttons in addition to the knobs, most do not. I am not picky about that. as long as it has that set up. the back should look like the attached picture with 6 vertical rows of vents on the back with one vent on each side. COLDSPOT should be embossed like shown in the attached photo. please let me know if someone finds one of the following units for sale somewhere. I am always on the lookout but sometimes I just miss stuff.


Here Is The Hotpoint Air Conditioner:

Post# 714021 , Reply# 92   11/8/2013 at 20:51 (1,564 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

Here is the back of the wanted Hotpoint. this photo is not of the same exact unit as pictured above, but it looks the same on the outside.

Post# 714022 , Reply# 93   11/8/2013 at 20:52 (1,564 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

Coldspot Air Conditioner Inside:

Post# 714023 , Reply# 94   11/8/2013 at 20:54 (1,564 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

Sears Coldspot Inside. same set up just a different designed grille. there are quite a few different designs, but the set up is the same

Post# 714024 , Reply# 95   11/8/2013 at 20:56 (1,564 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

The back of the Sears Coldspot should look like this. depth may be slightly different depending on BTU but the vent set up should be the same as stated before, and it should have COLDSPOT embossed as shown below. I apologize for all them posts in a row, but I couldn't figure out how to post more than one photo to one post. This is the last one for now.

Post# 714027 , Reply# 96   11/8/2013 at 21:13 (1,564 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
That Coldspot..

Is like one my parents best friends had, it was also the biggest window unit I ever saw, I believe it was 32000 btu, our next door neighbor also had one that was 23ooo, and as far as I know its still running, and it was bought in 1970, both blew out COLD! air.

Post# 714033 , Reply# 97   11/8/2013 at 21:46 (1,564 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

I bet it is still running. Those Coldspot units are no joke! Nice looking machines too. Quality products to say the least.

Post# 716381 , Reply# 98   11/19/2013 at 23:18 (1,553 days old) by williepeck (Tucson )        
Interesting location

Hey PhilR that's a quite interesting spot to put the knbs on a air conditioner. I have NEVER seem that in my life. I think that's Linda a good spot for the controls if the unit it being mounted up high if it is being mounted low than your screwed

Post# 716451 , Reply# 99   11/20/2013 at 08:46 (1,553 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
Not the exact model you are looking for but rare non the less.

Hotpoint Porta Cool with the Lexan Outer Case

CLICK HERE TO GO TO toploader55's LINK on Boston Craigslist

Post# 716463 , Reply# 100   11/20/2013 at 09:48 (1,553 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
again....from when they built products with style and beauty.....

beautiful machines guys......

Post# 716466 , Reply# 101   11/20/2013 at 09:58 (1,553 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Just thought of GE...

toploader55's profile picture
They had a line out I think in the late 60s and 70s called "Fasionette.

These came in Avocado, Sunny Yellow, White, Coppertone, and a few more.

Check out this Video. 37 degree air.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO toploader55's LINK

Post# 716539 , Reply# 102   11/20/2013 at 14:58 (1,553 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        
23,000 BTUs @ 6 BTUs per watt means it drew 3,833 watts....

"23,000 BTUs @ 6 BTUs per watt means it drew 3,833 watts. At 220v it used 17.42 amps. 16 amps maximum(80%) are allowed on a 20a circuit. This beast required a 220v 30a circut and had a huge plug the size [and configuration] of an (American) electric dryer's."

I almost fell off my chair!
I couldn't belive that till I read it again.
I have a tri-split type heat pump that heats/cools the 3 bedrooms at my place and while having a rated power of 24.000 btu it has a rated power of 2100W and it was the least you could have to enter "Class A" of the EU Energy Label.
A better machine could achieve the same cooling with a rated electric power of only 1400W! And not counting amenities like inverter and super quiet operation!
(the power data is at 35°C outdoor 27/19°C DB/WB indoor)

Honestly, apart nostalgia, I can't see the point of using such an energy hog machine even if for a short time of the year!

Post# 716548 , Reply# 103   11/20/2013 at 15:32 (1,552 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Almost hate to see the cold weather coming

ovrphil's profile picture
So many cool A/C's - I'll need a year to read this one - and PhilR, Yogitunes, Swestoyz, and Sambootoo, your units are very cool(no pun). A/C's - another area that members have me looking at. Does it ever stop?

Post# 716673 , Reply# 104   11/20/2013 at 23:19 (1,552 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture



Without you, I wouldn't have one of mine (which I really like!).


Thanks a lot for getting it for me! 



Post# 716844 , Reply# 105   11/21/2013 at 14:38 (1,552 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Chrysler Air Temp

ovrphil's profile picture
I happen to like so many a/c's you all have, but does anyone have this Chrysler Air Temp. Really like that design - nice if you can swap out A/C's if you get bored with one. :-)


Post# 717203 , Reply# 106   11/23/2013 at 00:53 (1,550 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
WOW !!!!

toploader55's profile picture

That's a Tempette Series.


Those were 5,000-8,000 BTU.The Knob is what controled the Temperature and On/Off Switch.  The Fan speed, High and Low were controlled by that switch below it.


These were very quiet units. I believe these were in the Line up until 1970 when the Sleeper series took over.

Post# 717210 , Reply# 107   11/23/2013 at 01:49 (1,550 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Chrysler Airtemp

toploader55's profile picture

Here's a link to Airtemp's History

CLICK HERE TO GO TO toploader55's LINK

Post# 717283 , Reply# 108   11/23/2013 at 15:19 (1,550 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
finding a machine of any type, and matching it to a member who has it on a wish list, and making their dream come true....what more joy can be had!....

you are more than welcome Phil!...although the greatest joy was getting to meet you and hang for a day.....

glad it all worked out, and we were able to meet and get this machine to you....

these are all some unique A/C's.....not just for cooling, its all part of the decor....

not to mention how much better these olders units cool compared to todays stuff, no suprise there....

tradition calls for a video.....but how do you video air?.....maybe some streamers or confetti thrown into the breeze......then I think we would be onto a vacuum thread to pick it all up...maybe not such a bright idea....nevermind

Post# 717353 , Reply# 109   11/24/2013 at 00:07 (1,549 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

I didn't use confetti or vacuum cleaners in these videos but at least you can hear the noise! (Definitely not as much action as in videos of washers!).

Post# 717355 , Reply# 110   11/24/2013 at 00:27 (1,549 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
Have any of you ever seen...

The early 50s Carrier window units that have a cast iron semi hermetic compressor and use Freon 500 ,,maybe 502?? At any rate those were the QUIETEST and the coldest monsters that ever were!

Post# 717371 , Reply# 111   11/24/2013 at 07:59 (1,549 days old) by retromania (Anderson, SC )        
Vintage GE Window AC

I've commented on this before, but before my mother had central air conditioning installed we had a mammoth GE window unit. It plugged into a power outlet that had a configuration that I haven't seen since. It didn't make much noise and it didn't have a lot of thrust, but the air coming out was frigid and it almost cooled the entire downstairs. It pulled the juice.

Post# 717375 , Reply# 112   11/24/2013 at 08:54 (1,549 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
thanks Phil.....those are some beautiful machines....timeless and priceless....

for somewhat newer versions, well, more like 80's style, I found the Kenmores very quiet compared to the Whirlpool counterpart.....I am on the hunt for a few Kenmores, I like the woodgrain fronts....I also like to stay around 8000 to 12000 btus

Post# 717377 , Reply# 113   11/24/2013 at 09:12 (1,549 days old) by stchuck (Winfield, il.)        
I used to have a fedders in my bedroom growing up

I used to close the door and keep it on constant run. It had the wheel to turn the direction and a pull out air filter on the top. I swear sometimes you could see your breath in my room. I now realize what angels my parents were, they never said a word and paid the electric bill. I had a comforter on my bed that I slept under all summer. What a goon I was.

Post# 717391 , Reply# 114   11/24/2013 at 11:08 (1,549 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Our neighbors across the street in 1955 had a couple of those Carriers. I remember the gray plastic ovoid inside grill with the solid center and the concentric bands.

Post# 717530 , Reply# 115   11/24/2013 at 22:11 (1,548 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Look what we found at an estate sale this weekend! It's soooo cute...

Post# 717532 , Reply# 116   11/24/2013 at 22:13 (1,548 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
The grill looks a bit off in the first picture, but that is just the way it is photographing, it actually is quite mint. Unfortunately we have to wait until May before we get to install this in the window.

Post# 717536 , Reply# 117   11/24/2013 at 22:29 (1,548 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        

supersuds's profile picture
RCA Whirlpool labeling suggests mid Sixties at the latest, then?

What's the purpose of the lo/hi cool switch? It's not a two-sped compressor, surely. Does it give fresh air on lo and recirculate on hi?

Post# 717538 , Reply# 118   11/24/2013 at 22:47 (1,548 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
toploader - thanks Eddie, I will read that link tomorrow...looks interesting!

PhilR - I like the third video of your Fridgidaire A/C but they're all nice. And not related, thanks again for the brochure for the Amana radarange. I need to print it out, yet.

Martin - before I came to, I was smiling in a snickering-way at the old vintage faux-wood appliances.
Since hangin' out here, I'm taking another look at the faux wood look and liking it all over again. LOL!

Robert - nice unit - so it fairly quiet ?

I have a couple questions - anyone know which A/C's had the rotating vents?
Also, were there A/C units that had humidity controls as well? I thought I read on sometime, that
there were, but didn't see anyone mention which units.

Post# 717543 , Reply# 119   11/24/2013 at 23:11 (1,548 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

That's a very nice find Robert!

Post# 717564 , Reply# 120   11/25/2013 at 02:22 (1,548 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Rotating Vents

toploader55's profile picture
Fedders had the "Weather Wheel".

GE had four round vents on some models

Phil... are you talking about Automatic vents or round rotating for air direction ?

Good Lord Robert and Fred... You even find Minty Vintage Air Conditioners !!!!

That's amazing and congrats.

Post# 717665 , Reply# 121   11/25/2013 at 15:10 (1,548 days old) by Davey7 (Chicago)        

Did somebody break into my place and take pictures of my Frigidaire AC units!!!!!

Post# 717680 , Reply# 122   11/25/2013 at 16:59 (1,547 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
What's the purpose of the lo/hi cool switch?
Hi and lo fan speeds.

Post# 717717 , Reply# 123   11/25/2013 at 20:54 (1,547 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        

supersuds's profile picture
"What's the purpose of the lo/hi cool switch?
Hi and lo fan speeds."

Couldn't be. There's another switch for that.

Post# 717724 , Reply# 124   11/25/2013 at 21:32 (1,547 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)        

Two separate modes of operation.

Hi and lo speeds for "fan only" mode


Hi and lo speeds for "cooling" mode

Post# 717775 , Reply# 125   11/26/2013 at 00:09 (1,547 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Automatic vents

ovrphil's profile picture
toploader - I was talking about those vents that are automatic, not the manual ones. I remember seeing them somewhere sometime. Thanks for replying, Eddie.

I saw this :
and thought there was a window air conditioner made by Chrysler or another brand, maybe late 60s or 70s, that had a control built in for humidity control. I know you can attach an external humidity control that enables the unit to turn on or off when it reaches a selected humidity level. So maybe I'm dreaming, regarding that feature being offered 40 years ago or so.

Post# 717816 , Reply# 126   11/26/2013 at 07:37 (1,547 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)        
Like this...


Post# 717817 , Reply# 127   11/26/2013 at 07:38 (1,547 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)        
humidity control...


Post# 717886 , Reply# 128   11/26/2013 at 16:34 (1,546 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

that is a sweet looking Chrysler Airtemp you got there! I have your videos of it saved to my favorites on my youtube channel

Post# 717887 , Reply# 129   11/26/2013 at 16:38 (1,546 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

Norgeway, those Carrier units are neat! that's on my want, but probably never going to find list LMAO!!

Post# 717888 , Reply# 130   11/26/2013 at 16:41 (1,546 days old) by rstacey1990 (PA)        

unimatic1141, awesome find on the RCA Whirlpool. never seen one of these before. can you show us what the back of it looks like? maybe id recognize one if I saw it from the back, as that is the part of the unit more people can see because its outside.


Post# 717906 , Reply# 131   11/26/2013 at 18:54 (1,546 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Hunidity Control on A/C units

ovrphil's profile picture
Bill(wiskybill) - Wow, that's it! Do you have such a model? What happened to features like this? Were they marginally successful or like so many other things, just didn't get the interest because of de-humidifiers(talking to myself Thank you for posting this.

rstacey1990 - I wish I was the owner of that Chrysler Air Temp...but I just posted it as a "like". I've never seen one like it.

It's amazing how generic looking today's window A/C's look.. Then again, nah.

Post# 717912 , Reply# 132   11/26/2013 at 19:27 (1,546 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

petek's profile picture
I'm just wondering if that RCA Whirpool was built by them or if it's a rebadged Heat Controller which all had similar top mount air discharge. I'd almost bet on it. They were right down the road from Whirlpool in Jackson Mich.

Post# 717917 , Reply# 133   11/26/2013 at 19:58 (1,546 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)        

Sadly, no. I only have the product literature.
It appears to have a print date of Oct/59.

This was for a model 106.60150 which has the
controls in the top picture.

According to charts for Sears mfg. codes that
I've looked at, 106 is a Whirlpool code.

Post# 717920 , Reply# 134   11/26/2013 at 20:06 (1,546 days old) by HooverWheelAway ()        

Here's the back of the RCA Whirlpool... Bland and boring, no cool escutcheon or brand identification.

Post# 717922 , Reply# 135   11/26/2013 at 20:09 (1,546 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

petek's profile picture
My word, it says Made in Canada for Whirpool Benton Harbor... hmmmm

Post# 717999 , Reply# 136   11/26/2013 at 23:53 (1,546 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
I think you're right, it looks like a Heat Controller product. They also made GM Frigidaire units for the canadian market from 1964 to 1970. The model P052K below looks similar to Fred and Robert's Whirlpool P50.


Post# 756717 , Reply# 137   5/13/2014 at 10:48 (1,379 days old) by fred1965 ()        
proto type window unit carrier

my father inlaw worked for carrier as an engineer in upstate ny back in the day.relocated to Louisville ky.i believe in the 60' day we were cleaning out he's basement when we came up on a box that had a window unit in it.he told me that it was the 1st proto type window unit that they worked on when he worked for carrier.we plugged it in and still worked.but compared to todays unit it pulled some juice.sorry don't have pictures of it now.i still currently use it sometimes at our cabin in the woods plugged into a generator.dont have any kind of paper work but my father inlaw is still here to tell ya.he still works for an heating and aircoditioning here in town.was layed off by carrier.

Post# 756719 , Reply# 138   5/13/2014 at 10:59 (1,379 days old) by fred1965 ()        
proto type window unit carrier

anyone wanting to buy one let me know.i have it for sell.

Post# 756742 , Reply# 139   5/13/2014 at 13:27 (1,379 days old) by countryford (Phoenix, AZ)        

countryford's profile picture

Fred1965, do you have any pictures of it?

I'm looking for a vintage ac unit for my Washer room.

Post# 756750 , Reply# 140   5/13/2014 at 14:05 (1,379 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
Re vintage AC current usage..

I still contend that even though the old ac's used more current...they were not really less efficent because the air coming out of them was so much colder than todays other words, the old air cond. would run much less than whats made today...just as a vintage dishwasher might use 12 to 15 gallons of water, but run only 35 to 45 minutes...water is still cheaper than electricity so in essence the old one is no less efficent than the new one that runs 2 hours and does nothing!...Robert and Fred, that Whirlpool is beautiful!! I guarantee you will get some ice cold air out of that!!

Post# 756956 , Reply# 141   5/14/2014 at 15:39 (1,378 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Among vintage units, there are some that have a poor EER, and others with a better EER. I think anything with an EER of 8 or more is fine, with less than that, it's better to either have cheap electricity rates or for occasional use. There are some older units with a surprisingly good EER. My 1974 Frigidaire pictured above has 9.6 which is almost as good as some new units. And it's built to last!

Post# 762196 , Reply# 142   6/8/2014 at 01:22 (1,353 days old) by lostasever ()        
What is this?

I bought this today and I can't figure out who made it.It looks like it was made for a car like an under the dash type deal. The box says it is a demonstration unit. It is in mint condition and works great.I was hoping someone here can shed some light on it.

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Post# 762197 , Reply# 143   6/8/2014 at 01:45 (1,353 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Those were popular in the mid to late 50's. They are automotive evaporative coolers.
You put water in them and then mount them between the window and door frame and drive away. The ram air that comes in the front of the unit provides the cooled air.

These work well out west where there is little humidity. But in the deep south they don't work very well.

You usually see these things around vintge VW club meets. They are in high demand with vintage VW Bug enthusiasts.

Post# 762209 , Reply# 144   6/8/2014 at 06:05 (1,353 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

YES--Remember those--Dad bought one of those things to use in an old grey Hearse to haul us kids around--In New Mexico for those trips to our camp property near Pikes Peak.You had to pull a string sticking out of the unit to move the evaporator pads-as you did-you got a blast of cold water in your face.the unit cooled the front of the car well,but not the rear where us kids were.Sometimes we could sit in the front-if you sat by the unit in the window-you got to PULL THE STRING!!Funny how it says that the unit shown was made in Florida-the evaporative cooler would be USELESS there-in fact would make you even MORE miseable by adding even more humidity.

Post# 762265 , Reply# 145   6/8/2014 at 12:29 (1,353 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        
1964 Norge

In the spring of 1964 my dad emptied the savings account to spend ~$325 on a 10,000 btu Norge window unit with a real wood detachable front. The unit performed flawlessly for over 35 years. It eventually would up as a 'loaner' to friends whose units broke and couldn't afford to replace theirs. My parents lost track of it about 10 years ago. For all I know it's still humming away in a window somewhere.

It cooled 3 upstairs bedrooms (sheet hanging at top of stairs) and kept 4 rooms downstairs 80-ish and dry.

When EER was introduced I followed the Sears catalogue instructions and got 7.5 for the Norge. That actually qualified as "High Efficiency" at the time (mid 70's?).

The only downsides were that the unit was HEAVY. It needed 2 guys to lift and a 3rd person to open/close the window, guide it into place, and prop it up with a log so it wouldn't rip the window frame out. The compressor was loud when it first kicked in but quieted down after a few minutes.

Now? I use 35lb 5,000 btu units that I can manage myself, lol.


Post# 777668 , Reply# 146   8/16/2014 at 22:47 (1,283 days old) by zippyjet (Baltimore)        

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Someone mentioned in this thread they had a GE or Hotpoint unit that cooled real well but the fan output was weak. Several years back, an HVAC repairman showed me a little trick to restore some cooling and operating efficiency in these units. The squirrel cage fan would accumulate dirt and gunk on each blade inside the cage. He took an old butter knife and cleaned off each blade. Then plugged the A/C unit in the outlet and turned it on. The unit put out like it was brand new increasing it's efficiency. If you want to see lots of pictures of old window a/c units go to Flickr.


Post# 777681 , Reply# 147   8/17/2014 at 01:03 (1,283 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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It's funny, you made a comment about my small RCA TV on Flickr just a few hours ago! 


Ken knows a lot about old air conditioners. 


You probably saw the picture of the last air conditioner I got last week. I really like it!




1966 Frigidaire Prestige air conditioner AEP-8MK 8000 BTU



Post# 777704 , Reply# 148   8/17/2014 at 06:54 (1,283 days old) by retro-man (nashua,nh)        

Thanks zippy for the link to the older a/c units. Remember a lot of those units growing up. One that I saw and had never seen is the unit that's part a/c on one side and a refrigerator on the other side, and each can be run together or on their own. Very interesting concept.

Post# 812434 , Reply# 149   3/5/2015 at 14:20 (1,083 days old) by shannaelyse ()        
Vintage air conditioners for sale?

Hey everyone! I'm doing a tv so set in 1973. I was wondering if anyone wanted to sell their late sixties, early seventies wall unit air conditioners to our show? I know this is a stretch but trying to cover all my bases since they are practically impossible to find. Feel free to email me:

Post# 812576 , Reply# 150   3/6/2015 at 10:04 (1,082 days old) by Artcurus (Odessa)        

Currently using a Friedrich KStar 6000BTU from 2006. I think it was the last of the units built in the US, it also uses R22.

It works pretty well, but we wont talk about the fact that I have to run the damn thing when it's 40 degrees outside because the roommate keeps the furnace on "cremate" if it drops below about 65 outside.

Post# 812602 , Reply# 151   3/6/2015 at 15:07 (1,082 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
I have an old Fedders that was installed over the door of my local market as a kid, so its well over 60 years old. It is about 4 feet long and 12 inches square and has the big round diffuser on the front and controls on the top. I plugged it in a couple years ago and it still poured freezing air out of it. I want to clear out that attic and if anyone here on AW wants it, they can have it, as I will never use it.

Post# 950077 , Reply# 152   7/25/2017 at 23:15 (209 days old) by CoolAir2112 (Arizona)        
Vintage Front Panel


I'm looking for a 1960's style front panel for a window air conditioner. I've been looking for over a year to find one for a project I'm doing. It will be used as a prop in an old 1963 Spy Van replica. See picture of what I'm looking for, something similar would be great! If you can help, I'd appropriate it! Thanks!

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