Thread Number: 32727
The YouCrate comes with Freezing Rain! |
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Post# 493092 , Reply# 1   2/1/2011 at 16:31 (4,803 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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A Whirlpool BD and Whirlpool 24" DD. |
Post# 493094 , Reply# 2   2/1/2011 at 16:35 (4,803 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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After moving it across the ice glazed sidewalk, and getting it in the basement, time to see what it is. RCA Whirlpool Supreme 80 5 Cycle 2 Speed |
Post# 493099 , Reply# 3   2/1/2011 at 16:43 (4,803 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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M/N: LSA7800B0 S/N: 07069J716 |
Post# 493101 , Reply# 4   2/1/2011 at 16:47 (4,803 days old) by circlew (NE Cincinnati OH area)   |   | |
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One of my favorite Whirlpools! Really like the rare "Edged Sapphire" color. Enjoy them. |
Post# 493111 , Reply# 5   2/1/2011 at 17:01 (4,803 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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It's in desperate need of being checked over. |
Post# 493113 , Reply# 6   2/1/2011 at 17:03 (4,803 days old) by retropia ()   |   | |
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The blue color is a pretty shade. Is the 24" direct drive Whirlpool a rare model? I'm not familiar with the smaller washers. |
Post# 493115 , Reply# 7   2/1/2011 at 17:05 (4,803 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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After it is checked over, it's MOD time! In the mean while, What can I do with this HID lamp and this machine? Keep watching to find out! |
Post# 493168 , Reply# 8   2/1/2011 at 19:10 (4,803 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Post# 493185 , Reply# 10   2/1/2011 at 20:37 (4,803 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Glad the washers arrived in one piece as you may be able to see the crate was not big enough for both machines it missed by 1/2 ". I had to stand on the top of the crate while Jason snapped the clips in place that hold the crate together. But at least I figured that the machines would not move around inside the crate as they were really pinned in place.
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Post# 493219 , Reply# 11   2/1/2011 at 21:53 (4,803 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 493220 , Reply# 12   2/1/2011 at 21:56 (4,803 days old) by peteski50 (New York)   |   | |
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Post# 493237 , Reply# 13   2/1/2011 at 23:02 (4,803 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 493267 , Reply# 14   2/2/2011 at 04:36 (4,803 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Post# 493278 , Reply# 15   2/2/2011 at 06:41 (4,802 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 493287 , Reply# 16   2/2/2011 at 07:15 (4,802 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Youcrate.com....for the cube or tower is basically a flat rate of whatever you can fit in one container
Malcolm--when I got the SQ from you last year, from GA to NJ was just under 200.00.....with the price of gas going up.....the price is more than doubled I got a quote yesterday from them, from NJ to SC.....one cube, 447.00..... we may have to start seeking alternatives to transport these machines.... |
Post# 493294 , Reply# 17   2/2/2011 at 08:14 (4,802 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 493368 , Reply# 20   2/2/2011 at 13:11 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Looks like a 2 speed motor. |
Post# 493369 , Reply# 21   2/2/2011 at 13:13 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Magic clean filter |
Post# 493370 , Reply# 22   2/2/2011 at 13:15 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Reservoir area looks good. |
Post# 493371 , Reply# 23   2/2/2011 at 13:16 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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No rear self leveling legs! |
Post# 493372 , Reply# 24   2/2/2011 at 13:19 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Splash guard is DIRTY! Inside top needs cleaned too. |
Post# 493373 , Reply# 25   2/2/2011 at 13:21 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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OOOOOO! A Mercury lid switch! |
Post# 493375 , Reply# 26   2/2/2011 at 13:23 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Does not look like it has any leaks. |
Post# 493380 , Reply# 28   2/2/2011 at 13:35 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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back of the machine |
Post# 493381 , Reply# 29   2/2/2011 at 13:37 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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The wiring diagram is Very important for the mods . |
Post# 493382 , Reply# 30   2/2/2011 at 13:39 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Left side of console. |
Post# 493383 , Reply# 31   2/2/2011 at 13:41 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Right side |
Post# 493395 , Reply# 34   2/2/2011 at 14:15 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Some of these lamps are self-ballasted, others are required to reside in a specific position to operate. |
Post# 493397 , Reply# 35   2/2/2011 at 14:17 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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. |
Post# 493398 , Reply# 36   2/2/2011 at 14:22 (4,802 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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I have a mod that I plan to do to the drive system. Since I want the machine to draw a max of 15 Amps, better stick with the 50W for now. The mod to the drive system will draw the vast majority of current. |
Post# 493489 , Reply# 37   2/2/2011 at 18:47 (4,802 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 493493 , Reply# 38   2/2/2011 at 18:56 (4,802 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 493567 , Reply# 41   2/2/2011 at 21:40 (4,802 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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nice old whirlpool!-looked like there were '67 date codes on the motor and pump. |
Post# 493636 , Reply# 43   2/3/2011 at 07:44 (4,801 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Melvin glad the machines arrived in one piece, I see that I forgot to include the rear feet parts I do have these if you need them. The correct model # of your machine is LRA7800BO. When I do the rest of the restoration of the Mark12 I will send you the correct tag for your machine. So the top of yours is a 1967 and the rest is 1968. I also noticed that one of the three centering springs from the DD washer fell out when we were loading it and I have it. I thing all DD springs are the same but in any case I will save it for you.
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Post# 494055 , Reply# 46   2/5/2011 at 07:01 (4,799 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Here is the first video. This is the noisiest Whirlpool I've worked with. CLICK HERE TO GO TO supremewhirlpol's LINK |
Post# 494206 , Reply# 49   2/5/2011 at 19:50 (4,799 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Melvin the vibrating rattling noise you hear before it goes into spin is the top agitator shaft bearing, the additional racket you hear when it is spinning is the top center post bearings. The washer needs new center post bearings spin tube and agitator shaft. I can not tell if there is any problem with the motor, it seemed that when you made the video that there was another washer running in he back ground ?. If you want to see if the motor is excessively noisy remove the belt from the motor pulley and see what the motor sounds like, I am going to bet that the motor is OK.
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Post# 494230 , Reply# 52   2/5/2011 at 21:25 (4,799 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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The Cool Down CLICK HERE TO GO TO supremewhirlpol's LINK |
Post# 494231 , Reply# 53   2/5/2011 at 21:27 (4,799 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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low agitation CLICK HERE TO GO TO supremewhirlpol's LINK |
Post# 494232 , Reply# 54   2/5/2011 at 21:30 (4,799 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Neutral drain CLICK HERE TO GO TO supremewhirlpol's LINK |
Post# 494233 , Reply# 55   2/5/2011 at 21:32 (4,799 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Final Spin ->Probably should have left 1 or 2 sweat shirts out. I don't use TL machines very often. CLICK HERE TO GO TO supremewhirlpol's LINK |
Post# 494238 , Reply# 56   2/5/2011 at 21:46 (4,799 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Melvin and cfz -
I agree with John, when you pushed on the basket and altered the vibration, my first hunch was confirmed that the centerpost bearings are worn. Its the top bearing that amplifies the noise, but they're both usually toasted by this point, or have enough play that both need to be replaced. The agitator shaft I am a little less concerned about - my experience has been that tight centerpost bearings shore up any grooves in the agitator shaft that may cause vibration noises. BUT, if there is a lot of wear on the shaft, it will need to go too because the worn spots can chew up a new spin-tube seal which would be recommended when the bearings get re-done. If this were my machine I would not be concerned just yet about the motor. I have heard far noisier belt-drives that had good motors, but it is very possible as it was said above that the vibration dampening rubber absorbers in the motor mounts may be dried out, thus transmitting any noise that is there. I whole-heartedly agree with cfz about the Emerson motors. I have rarely encountered a bad one, same for a noisey one. I have had some wicked GE motors though - these DID transmit unholy sounds through the machine, and when really bad, they will fry the skin on your fingers when touching them, they get so hot. They make good boat anchors at that point. I can hardly remember a 1980s belt-drive that had a GE motor, though they seem to have seen widespread use in early 1970s models. Good luck with the machine melvin. A bearing job isn't that big a deal if you can get your hands on the right tools. Gordon |
Post# 494241 , Reply# 57   2/5/2011 at 21:54 (4,799 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 494243 , Reply# 58   2/5/2011 at 21:54 (4,799 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Melvin -
I forgot to mention one thing: If the machine is cold when the vibrations are really bad, they sometimes will warm up and become much quieter. This to me anyway is a sign that the bearings aren't that bad yet. The videos you added while I was typing above seem to confirm that. The machine sounds pretty respectable during drain and spin - all I can hear during spin is a bit of agitator growl (the agitator acts like a mega-phone when vibrations come from the agitator shaft). Gordon |
Post# 494248 , Reply# 59   2/5/2011 at 22:03 (4,799 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Dave -
The bearing tools are long-ago NLA. The only ones I am familiar with were made by a company called Robinair, which nowadays is involved mostly in refrigerant recovery systems for HVAC and refrigeration. Calling that company a few years back revealed that few were even aware they had made the tools. When they were available still in the early 90s, my cost with an account at the parts store was going to be $300 or $400 for a bearing remover and bearing installer. I wound up getting mine used, piece-meal on ebay. As to bearing seals, these are rubber coated with metal centers. The single top seal can be removed on 1977 and older machines by carefully prying it out with a screw driver and needle-nosed pliers. In 1978 and newer machines with the short centerpost, I do not believe this to be possible. There are two seals in these which are two or three times as tall/thick each, and I think only a bearing remover could get them out. If anyone knows differently, I'd love to know. Gordon |
Post# 494249 , Reply# 60   2/5/2011 at 22:11 (4,799 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Thanks Gordon! Until I can get this done, the machine will serve as a good show piece. |
Post# 494407 , Reply# 61   2/6/2011 at 10:34 (4,798 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The part # of the seal and bearing kit is 285134 this kit fits all WP BD & DD washers washers built from 1947- the present DDs including all compacts, full size and super capacity washers. You will also need a new spin tube which comes with the agitator shaft bearings and seals already installed inside. And you will need a new or good used agitator shaft, I have never seen a washer of this age and worn condition that had good agitator shafts and spin tube.
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Post# 494572 , Reply# 62   2/6/2011 at 22:26 (4,798 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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I think a set of bearing tools is something I should plan on obtaining in the future. Are the tools the same for the short centerpost belt drives as it is for the tall centerpost belt drives? What is the official name of the tools and do they have any part numbers?
Sorry to be a pain, but it's something I know next to nothing about, Dave |
Post# 494627 , Reply# 63   2/7/2011 at 08:07 (4,797 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Dave -
I don't remember the part numbers for the tools, but I believe the numbers are mentioned in my 1970s Kenmore repair manual. I'll let you know if I find them. The tools are the same for the three centerpost lengths (I think they fit the spring-suspension portables too but I am not certain of that). Have a good week! Gordon |
Post# 494631 , Reply# 64   2/7/2011 at 08:34 (4,797 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Melvin
What exactly, if I may ask, are the modifications you were going to do to this machine?..... I have a 1983 WP Supreme, to turbocharge it, or at least kick it up a notch, I switched the pulley on the motor from 2 inch to 2 1/2 inch....this turned Gentle wash to normal, and normal to super scrubbing action....and the drain is full powered, blow the drain hose out of the tub pressure.....a little too much kick, the spin is nice and fast, but I need to find a 2 1/4 inch pulley should work best, a little kick is what I wanted, but not overkill... |
Post# 494636 , Reply# 65   2/7/2011 at 08:47 (4,797 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 494657 , Reply# 66   2/7/2011 at 10:10 (4,797 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 494683 , Reply# 67   2/7/2011 at 13:13 (4,797 days old) by drewz (Alexandria, Virginia)   |   | |
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Post# 494699 , Reply# 68   2/7/2011 at 14:50 (4,797 days old) by 3beltwesty ()   |   | |
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My Aunt had a Sear Kenmore TL washer back in the 1960's that sort of was that color blue |
Post# 495039 , Reply# 71   2/8/2011 at 20:12 (4,796 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Remember Mark I had that washer in my shop and it has worn bearings, the normal hum-vibration of the motor will make worn bearings vibrate but the motor is fine. Also no amount of overloading any washer will damage the motor to the point that it will get louder and hum or vibrate, thats one of the most ridiculous theories I have ever heard. I would love to see anyone prove that theory.
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Post# 495113 , Reply# 74   2/9/2011 at 03:08 (4,796 days old) by tbolt25 (Kentucky)   |   | |
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I saw those Youtube videos of that turquoise belted Whirlpool washer, and that is one killer good washing machine-I think supremewhirlpool should restore it from the ground up! It sounds as good as music! |
Post# 495155 , Reply# 75   2/9/2011 at 07:57 (4,795 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Mark your observations are accurate and this goes to prove that sometimes there two ways to solve a noise problem. WP did have a lot of motor vibration problems with the square grey GE motors that were used in the 1970s, and we would often replace them or use the quite motor mount kit that WP sold to solve this problem. These motors were out of balance when they left the factory and in fact this often generated a warranty call and we fixed the problem under warranty. WP also had a tolerance problem with the top agitator shaft bearing in the spin tube starting in the mid 1970s and this caused the same annoying buzz that the worn out agitator shaft bearing does in Melvin's washer. As a result of this bearing problem we replaced many spin-tube assemblies in machines and the problem disappeared. GE and WP had a major disagreement going on around 1980 and WP never used and GE motors in thier appliances after this time and just used Emerson motors which were generally better balanced. But I will never believe that overloading a washer can cause the motor to become out of balance. Mark I would love to meet or talk to you some time I am sure we would have lots to talk about when you consider all the WP built machines we have both rebuilt, if you or anyone else come to the Washington area come and check out all the cool appliances.
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Post# 495221 , Reply# 76   2/9/2011 at 12:43 (4,795 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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OH! So that's why only Emerson motors are used now. Does anyone know the part no. for the spintube, and transmission, or transmission shaft? |
Post# 496180 , Reply# 77   2/13/2011 at 10:41 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Time to look at the Whirlpool 24" DD. I've only seen 2 of these in person. I refer to this machine as 'Model 0'. It's a machine that I started searching for since ~2000, ever since I saw one for the first time. |
Post# 496181 , Reply# 78   2/13/2011 at 10:43 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Console... As you can see, it looks like the BD models of this era. |
Post# 496182 , Reply# 79   2/13/2011 at 10:45 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Hmmm... |
Post# 496183 , Reply# 80   2/13/2011 at 10:49 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Design 2000 Regal series 3 cycle |
Post# 496184 , Reply# 81   2/13/2011 at 10:53 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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only 2 water levels! high and low |
Post# 496186 , Reply# 82   2/13/2011 at 10:55 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Sell date |
Post# 496188 , Reply# 83   2/13/2011 at 10:57 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Energy Guide |
Post# 496189 , Reply# 84   2/13/2011 at 10:58 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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) |
Post# 496190 , Reply# 85   2/13/2011 at 11:00 (4,791 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Spec. sheet |
Post# 496213 , Reply# 86   2/13/2011 at 12:28 (4,791 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Melvin -
NEAT DD washer. Is this an early enough machine to have the pump in the back? I know that the first production did not have the pump centered in front, instead they were toward the back, at about 10 o'clock or 11 or so (I think). As to the part numbers you asked for on your awesome belt-drive, they are: For a complete basket drive and spin tube, the last part number was 383923 (NLA) The complete transmission is 362901 (NLA). This is a universal replacement that fits all belt-drives except the pre-1974 super-tall centerpost machines. You will need an 18-1/4" spin tube, which I believe is also NLA but is part 383921. Be careful not to get the tall spin tube which goes with the above tall transmission (doubtful you'd find one) or the very common 13.5" spin tube which is used on the 1978 and later models. The agitator shaft is part number 285036. Same thing, most likely NLA. Some of these items are still around, you'll just have to look for them. Gordon |
Post# 496296 , Reply# 89   2/13/2011 at 19:39 (4,791 days old) by kenmoreBD (Mass, usa )   |   | |
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Yes that is normal for the early run dd washer. I think it was not until 1987 that they changed to a neutral drain. |
Post# 496312 , Reply# 90   2/13/2011 at 21:29 (4,791 days old) by mistereric (New Jersey (Taylor Ham))   |   | |
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Post# 496315 , Reply# 91   2/13/2011 at 21:32 (4,791 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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This is a 3rd model-year machine, and at least a 2nd-revision design. It has a clothes guard ring on the basket, which was not on the first introduction model. When working at the Whirlpool dealer, the first model we sold was LB5500XK. If I am not mistaken, LB5500XK (1982 model-year) was the only model Whirlpool offered initially. I have a service school book that covers it (dated 1981). It had four water levels, three temps, four cycles (Regular/Heavy, Knits/Gentle, Perm Press, Soak/Prewash. The console did not have wood-grain decor. More model choices were added later. XL is the next model-year (1983). XM follows that (1984).
The sequence you state, which I assume is following the designated agitation time on the Normal cycle -- pause, agitate, pause, agitate, pause, spin -- does not seem normal to me. Doesn't seem there should be a sequence of pause, agitate, pause and agitate again. One pause for motor reversal should occur between agitate and drain. My grandmother had an LA7400XM bought in November 1984. I could be wrong, but I vaguely recall that it didn't pause between "drain" and "spin" on Normal being as there was no need to shift the transmission. It did pause very briefly (long enough for the basket to brake to a stop) between drain and spin on Gentle & Perm Press for the motor to change speed (high-speed spin-drain, low-speed spin).
The machine you have there LA5430XM is a one-speed model, thus the Short cycle instead of Gentle. |
Post# 496316 , Reply# 92   2/13/2011 at 21:47 (4,791 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.)   |   | |
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Great videos of the Whirlpool; thanks for posting. Always nice to see those Bakelite Surgilators in action. Have a good one, James |
Post# 496369 , Reply# 93   2/14/2011 at 07:51 (4,790 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The timers in the early machines did have several pauses near the end of agitation in both wash and rinse, this was the point in the cycle where the lid switch came into use in the cycle if you opened the lid after this first pause the agitation would stop. When WP first designed this machine they thought they could get away no neutral drain and just make a cheaper to build washer like everyone else. But because of all the complaints about redeposited lint on clothing from trying to spin drain the washers they came up with a very clever way to make this new washer design do a neutral drain. WP started the change to ND in 1985 and by 1986 all DD models had this improvement. WP actually had to take back many early DD washers and give the customer a BD machine as WP & KM owners had always been used to better performance in regard to this linting problem. All other makers of perforated basket machines had this problem to one degree or another. This is why GE changed the hole pattern on thier wash baskets in the late 1960s, and Norge pumped out 1/2 of the water before trying to spin, and Frigidare 1-18s would start spinning at low speed to minimize this problem of water sloshing back over the clothes as draining and spinning started. MT never really did anything to solve this problem in thier machines but when they started promoting the Norgetags they claimed in thier own literature that you were going to see cleaner brighter clothes because of the more powerful pump and the small holes in the sides of the tub would allow the water to leave fast enough that your clean clothes don't become a lint and sediment filter for the dirty water as it leaves the machine. |
Post# 496384 , Reply# 94   2/14/2011 at 09:36 (4,790 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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John / Combo -
I remember comments made about Whirlpool having to take back a bunch of DD machines in the early days. I am not sure where I heard this, but something tells me that the technician from Sears mentioned it in 1986 when he came out to level my BD machine (the steel pan it was in was causing issues), and I believe my mentor and friend told me this in the early 90s too. I think many of the service folks in the field didn't like the new DDs and were lamenting the loss of the BDs, so any failure in the DD was celebrated, until more people realized the DD's benefits. I have never once had a linting problem in a BD machine, but then again every one I've used has had some sort of lint filter, be it the mesh screen or bed of nails manual, the cone shape or tub-mounted self-cleaner, OR the seemingly cheesy but functional tub mounted disk. I do have a nice BOL machine that I will be playing with soon that has no filter at all -- should be interesting to see if it delivers different results. Gordon |
Post# 496492 , Reply# 95   2/14/2011 at 21:50 (4,790 days old) by kenmoreBD (Mass, usa )   |   | |
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OK I see I did not know that whirlpool made dd before 1985. The first run was on the smaller washers? |
Post# 496501 , Reply# 96   2/14/2011 at 22:49 (4,790 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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