maytag transmission leak

Does any one know how to drain and fill the transmission once I have it out, and how full or how much fluid does it take

The top half of the transmission comes apart via 10 1/2" bolts. Remove the bolts and use a sharp but flat putty knife and a hammer to break the seal and split the case. There are 2 guide pins, so go around those.

Once the cover is off, grab a pan and tip the trans to drain the oil. You'll need snap rings pliers like this to remove one or two snap rings (earlier versions had 2 snap rings, newer versions had 1. Mid 80's had none and all of the gears go crashing to the ground if the trans is tipped). All of the gears will simply lift out after the snaps rings and washers are removed. Grab the fiber pinion gear and pull the center shaft out.

You'll need a pick set like this for removal and installation of the o-ring seal. Use the pick on the far left to remove the o-ring seal and use the 2 left picks to install the new one after you have heated it up a bit (I use a hair blow dryer) so it's more manageable. Make sure the new o-ring is properly seated in the groove!

Remove the pin from the fiber pinion gear and loosen and remove the large flat head screw. Remove the brass and steel clutch washers that're underneath the fiber pinion gear. I always purchase a new fiber pinion gear and clutch washers. Clean the shaft and liberally oil it with Maytag transmission oil (original part # 056080, superseded to Y056080, now currently superseded to 6-0560800....'cause Whirlpool can't make up their damn mind). Slip the shaft up from the bottom of the trans (not from the top like Maytag materials says. You'll destroy the o-ring unless you have the special tool). Once the shaft begins to contact the o-ring, gently twist and push the shaft up the remainder of the way. If you push straight up, you may cut and destroy the new o-ring. Properly install the clutch washers in their proper order (the splined clutch washer goes on first), making sure the ears are seated all of the way down. Install the fiber pinion gear, tighten the screw HARD, and install the locking pin.

After a pristine cleaning of the gears and lower trans housing, reassembled everything in reverse. Fill it up with oil and use a new trans gasket. If you have a tourqe wrench, tighten all 10 bolts to 10 foot pounds. DO NOT REST THE TRANS ON THE BOTTOM SHAFT! It will cause the shaft to move up, possibly causing the steel clutch washer ears to come out of the seated position. Bad things may happen of that occurs!

As far as the upper trans housing goes, it's best that you don't take that apart, for now. Just turn it upside down and periodically spill some new trans oil in the orifice near the center so the upper trans bushings get re- oiled. Leave the housing upside down for a few hours and keep refilling the orifice with oil. It takes a while for that thick oil to make it to the upper bushing. Twist the shaft every once in a while so oil flows to the bushings.

I did a writeup a couple of years ago. After taking apart and rebuilding a bunch of these, I have found many new tricks that aren't mentioned in that older write-up. Here's the old write-up.


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Post# 496262 2/13/2011 at 16:08 (4,810 days old) by doublvey ()
Checkrate/Likes 2 hello I have a maytag model A308. I believe it is from the mid 70's. when the unit would spin after the wash, it would make a squealing noise. When i talked to a parts supplier, they recommended replacing the brake. So I bought the tool and did just that only to find out that the trandmission had leaked down the internal shaft and out the bottom of the machine. Although this was not a major leak, i think that is what got into my brake. I also foung out that maytag no longer makes the parts for or the original transmission for this washer, so I'm wondering what can I do or get to seal this transmission, as I really like this washer and still feal that it is worth fixing.

Post# 496265 , Reply# 1 2/13/2011 at 16:24 (4,810 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)
Checkrate/Likes The leak can probably be fixed by replacing a small o ring in the tranny tube. It involves almost a total disassembly of the machine.

Post# 496309 , Reply# 2 2/13/2011 at 21:18 (4,810 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes How big is the leak? If it's small, don't worry about. Maytags of this vintage can run many years that way before it gets too bad. If it starts tossing oil around underneath the machine, then it's time to fix it. It does require a complete tear down, transmission disassembled, ect. Not very difficult, but it's a little time consuming. The parts needed are still very much available. As for transmission oil leaking into the brake, this machine utilizes a wet braking system that uses Maytag transmission oil to perform properly, so a little more oil thrown into the brake package (if it's even possible) isn't gonna hurt anything, with the exception of the drive belt, lol.

Post# 496478 , Reply# 3 2/14/2011 at 20:37 (4,809 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)
Checkrate/Likes *brake squeal* If your brake is squealing you just add a capful of transmission fluid to it and that would cure it.If somebody told you to change the brake package they gave you very bad advice.

Post# 496488 , Reply# 4 2/14/2011 at 21:31 (4,809 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes If somebody told you to change the brake package they gave you very bad advice. Not entirely true. If the brake material has completely worn away, no amount of oil is gonna cure that annoying squeal ;) But I do agree that adding oil to the brake package should first be carried out before condemning it as being NFG.

Post# 496617 , Reply# 5 2/15/2011 at 11:55 (4,809 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)
Checkrate/Likes Is that "F" in NFG a technical term?

Post# 496639 , Reply# 6 2/15/2011 at 12:44 (4,809 days old) by jim (Hudson, WI)
Checkrate/Likes *Maytags* Hi. I happened on your thread and just wanted to reiterate - these were/are very well made machines. I bought one in 1978 (at this point I do not remember the model number but it was about $599.00 I think when I got it back then) and it lasted for 10 years without one problem. (My ex-wife kept it and beat it to death by stuffing it to the max everytime she used it, but that's neither here nor there - is washer abuse a punishable offense?) They are very much worth the time, energy and money to fix. What is it with us that makes us want to assume everything we have is like a Kleenex and is to be used once and thrown out? Consider Richard Peterson from Sacred Heart MN. His grandmother, when she passed away in 1948 was still using a Maytag wringer (I think it was bought in 1928) with a gaoline engine (pre REA area) and it was working perfectly. Now I realize that automatics are a light year or two away from them, but think of the ethic that that company propounded over the years. People EXPECTED these things to last a lifetime without problems - and many did. Just my thoughts on the matter ya know?

Post# 496659 , Reply# 7 2/15/2011 at 14:39 (4,808 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes Is that "F" in NFG a technical term? In a slang kind of way :P NFG = No "Freakin" Good is washer abuse a punishable offense? Around here it's ;) They are very much worth the time, energy and money to fix. What is it with us that makes us want to assume everything we have is like a Kleenex and is to be used once and thrown out? X2!

Post# 496691 , Reply# 8 2/15/2011 at 16:52 (4,808 days old) by doublvey ()
Checkrate/Likes *much thanks* I really appreciate all the advice. I'm currently setting up the pair to be put back in use. I downloaded some helpfull video's on how to tear the machine down and feel confident I can handle the repair. I'm wondering while I'm doing this what else needs done? I'm thinking a new tub seal, damper pads, as well as the transmission seal kit (if I can locate one - the parts listings are saying it is no longer available). please let me know if there is anything else I should consider. again, much thanks

Post# 496706 , Reply# 9 2/15/2011 at 18:26 (4,808 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)
Checkrate/Likes *Maytag rebuild* If you're tearing it down, also consider motor springs and plastic wheels, all visible under the motor when the front is off. Inexpensive, easy stuff. The under $10 kit usually includes some PolyLube also, for those wheels and the track they slide in. And check your belts. These machines are built to run 40 or more years with some easy maintenance.

Post# 499433 , Reply# 14 2/26/2011 at 13:31 (4,798 days old) by doublvey ()
Checkrate/Likes *GREAT INFORMATION* THANKS, FOR ALL THE HELP. ORDERING PARTS MONDAY, HOPEFULLY READY FOR TEARDOWN BY END OF WEEK.

Post# 499044 , Reply# 10 2/24/2011 at 13:58 (4,799 days old) by doublvey ()
Checkrate/Likes *transmission fill and drain* hello, I was wondering one last thing before I start the tear down to replace transmission seals. Does any one know how to drain and fill the transmission once I have it out, and how full or how much fluid does it take

Post# 499104 , Reply# 11 2/24/2011 at 19:22 (4,799 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)
Checkrate/Likes *MAYTAG TRANSMISSION REBUILDING* This is a major job and by far the most difficult thing you can do in terms of repairing this machine. I have no idea of your ability so I cannot advise you on your likelihood of success. Even just removing and reinstalling a transmission in this machine has many penitential problems without worrying about rebuilding it. It should be noted that you can still buy a rebuilt transmission for this machine for around $100 you could also get a parts machine and steal the transmission to solve your problem.

Post# 499146 , Reply# 12 2/25/2011 at 02:40 (4,799 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes Does any one know how to drain and fill the transmission once I have it out, and how full or how much fluid does it take The top half of the transmission comes apart via 10 1/2" bolts. Remove the bolts and use a sharp but flat putty knife and a hammer to break the seal and split the case. There are 2 guide pins, so go around those. Once the cover is off, grab a pan and tip the trans to drain the oil. You'll need snap rings pliers like this to remove one or two snap rings (earlier versions had 2 snap rings, newer versions had 1. Mid 80's had none and all of the gears go crashing to the ground if the trans is tipped). All of the gears will simply lift out after the snaps rings and washers are removed. Grab the fiber pinion gear and pull the center shaft out. You'll need a pick set like this for removal and installation of the o-ring seal. Use the pick on the far left to remove the o-ring seal and use the 2 left picks to install the new one after you have heated it up a bit (I use a hair blow dryer) so it's more manageable. Make sure the new o-ring is properly seated in the groove! Remove the pin from the fiber pinion gear and loosen and remove the large flat head screw. Remove the brass and steel clutch washers that're underneath the fiber pinion gear. I always purchase a new fiber pinion gear and clutch washers. Clean the shaft and liberally oil it with Maytag transmission oil (original part # 056080, superseded to Y056080, now currently superseded to 6-0560800....'cause Whirlpool can't make up their damn mind). Slip the shaft up from the bottom of the trans (not from the top like Maytag materials says. You'll destroy the o-ring unless you have the special tool). Once the shaft begins to contact the o-ring, gently twist and push the shaft up the remainder of the way. If you push straight up, you may cut and destroy the new o-ring. Properly install the clutch washers in their proper order (the splined clutch washer goes on first), making sure the ears are seated all of the way down. Install the fiber pinion gear, tighten the screw HARD, and install the locking pin. After a pristine cleaning of the gears and lower trans housing, reassembled everything in reverse. Fill it up with oil and use a new trans gasket. If you have a tourqe wrench, tighten all 10 bolts to 10 foot pounds. DO NOT REST THE TRANS ON THE BOTTOM SHAFT! It will cause the shaft to move up, possibly causing the steel clutch washer ears to come out of the seated position. Bad things may happen of that occurs! As far as the upper trans housing goes, it's best that you don't take that apart, for now. Just turn it upside down and periodically spill some new trans oil in the orifice near the center so the upper trans bushings get re- oiled. Leave the housing upside down for a few hours and keep refilling the orifice with oil. It takes a while for that thick oil to make it to the upper bushing. Twist the shaft every once in a while so oil flows to the bushings. I did a writeup a couple of years ago. After taking apart and rebuilding a bunch of these, I have found many new tricks that aren't mentioned in that older write-up. Here's the old write-up.

Post# 499251 , Reply# 13 2/25/2011 at 15:01 (4,798 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()
Checkrate/Likes Well, If you happen to get in my parts of the area, I have a A412 the you can get the trans out of. It will be tossed like a bad habit come spring.