Thread Number: 33098
Joy and Frustration - the Inglis washer saga continues.... |
[Down to Last] |
Post# 498315   2/21/2011 at 17:20 (4,804 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I was like a kid at Christmas all last week, just itching to get down to Ogden to get working on the Inglis washer. I very wisely organized the day Saturday so that the 'Belated Valentine' dinner was mostly prepared BEFORE I started messing with the machine. Now, I had been preparing mentally for this for months. I have a DYI appliance repair book that had some reasonably good-sounding instructions on how to replace a motor and belt on Whirlpool/Kenmore/Inglis washer and the belt itself came with a set of instructions. Step one was to get under the washer; I did this by laying the machine on its front. This post was last edited 02/21/2011 at 17:36 |
|
Post# 498317 , Reply# 1   2/21/2011 at 17:22 (4,804 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498318 , Reply# 2   2/21/2011 at 17:23 (4,804 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498323 , Reply# 3   2/21/2011 at 17:25 (4,804 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498325 , Reply# 4   2/21/2011 at 17:25 (4,804 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498329 , Reply# 5   2/21/2011 at 17:26 (4,804 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498333 , Reply# 6   2/21/2011 at 17:35 (4,804 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Time for a test and here is where the frustration kicked in... |
Post# 498349 , Reply# 7   2/21/2011 at 18:21 (4,804 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498415 , Reply# 8   2/21/2011 at 21:20 (4,804 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Paul,
I feel your pain. I went through much of what I think is happening here on a 1967 Kenmore 70 in the early 90s when I was still teething on the mechanicals of these machines. My guess is that the spin-tube is mis-aligned in the bearings, and is causing a "pinch" so to speak. This will result in the drag on system during spin. This is not unusual in standard centerpost machines after work like this. If I was faced with your situation, here is what I would do: 1) Completely relieve the tension on the belt by loosing the motor and bringing it to the far right of the travel path in the baseplate. (By the way, you didn't have to take the motor mount apart that way - the two mounting brackets come out very easily, and both should be loosened anyway to properly adjust the belt). I always take a motor out with the brackets on. 2) Remove the agitator, and remove the basket from the drive block. This will greatly improve your chances or bearing realignment when the weight of the basket is not working against you. 3) Remove the transmission braces and lower the three transmission mounting bolts a good 6 or 7mm, at least. 4) Stand the washer upright. Then bounce the transmission up and down in the centerpost with a little force from under it. If you need more room from the bolts, lower them a little more. This should release any bind on the bearings. 5) Sometimes, just to be sure, I will grab both sides of the baseplate and shake it good - this will help the bearings and spin tube settle. I know it sounds stupid, but I do this routinely. That '67 was a major b---h. 6) Retighten the three trans bolts in a random pattern similar to mounting a vehicle tire. Raise each one on a couple turns then raise the next. Raising one too much will cause another bind. Do this all with the machine upright, by the way... 7) With the gearcase tightened, put re-mount the basket. 8) Put the belt loosely back on the motor and slide the motor to the left with a lever in between the two mounting brackets. Tighten it only to the point of non-slip tension on the belt. 9) Manually engage spin by holding the left plunger up and rotate the drive pulley on the gearcase. See if you can feel excessive drag after spin engages. There is always some added drag, but you should still be able to rotate the belt, and the drag should be smooth and steady. 10) If you are comfortable with step 9's results, properly tighten the belt and put the rest of the machine back together (don't bother with the braces yet until you are satisfied with the machine). Run a operational test. If you like the results, then you can re-install the braces. The point here Paul is to loosen tension in the basket drive / spin tube / bearings so the parts can move freely. The best way to do that is get the weight off the spin tube from above, and the tension from below which comes in the form of a tight belt and the gearcase bolts. Shaking it all helps things settle when they are not under tension. Hopefully that will work. I'll keep my fingers crossed!!! Gordon |
Post# 498461 , Reply# 9   2/22/2011 at 06:25 (4,803 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498500 , Reply# 10   2/22/2011 at 10:40 (4,803 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Gordon -
Thank you for your write-up. Not only do I believe that it will benefit Paul, but I'm also struggling with a rebuild issue on a '59 Kenmore. After installing new bearings on a recycled center post-base plate assembly, as well as a brand new spin tube assembly/yoke assembly, I was having issues getting it to spin correctly. I could tell by the sound that the spin tube was not seated squarely with the center post bearings, and there was a slight wobble which easily could be attributed to the transmission not being perfectly square with the base plate. You pointed out some ideas (tighen up the transmission bolts with the machine standing up) that should help next time I work on the washer. I'll keep you posted with the results later this spring. Ben |
Post# 498508 , Reply# 11   2/22/2011 at 10:59 (4,803 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 498513 , Reply# 12   2/22/2011 at 11:10 (4,803 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
My eyes squinted from laughing, and as I scrolled down I failed to read that you had trouble. Sorry and good luck. Nothing is more exasperating than working your tail off on a washer, getting all happy, and then @#$%&*%!? it doesn't work. Few feelings are worse. My heart goes out to you.
Your Friend, Michael |
Post# 498548 , Reply# 13   2/22/2011 at 13:44 (4,803 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Paul & Ben you guys may or may not have center post alinement problems which can keep the machine from spinning properly. But before you go to a lot of trouble try this simple test. Take both hands and press down on the bottom of the wash basket, it should move down slightly [ less than a 1/4 " ] and pop right back up when released, if it does you have some other problem. |
Post# 498722 , Reply# 14   2/23/2011 at 10:22 (4,802 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Ben -
I hope the procedure I wrote helps! Your situation sounds odd. With new bearings and a brand new spin tube, your machine should be essentially renewed in that department. On that PIA '67, all its weird habits stopped immediately with the new bearings. Out of curiosity, what did you use to install the bearings? Did you install the oil seals underneath both bearings and use a "good bit" of turbine oil? The "wobble" you mention is strange, but I have heard that even in low mileage late model machines. It seems to come from the center of the centerpost/baseplate and is not rythmic or of any pattern. Even if the machine has a new spin tube, I have heard this. I was thinking that either a tiny amount of gap/play is going to be in the bearings and I can't do much about it, OR the drive pulley may be rattling a bit on the spin tube itself. It is possible to change the bushing in the drive pulley, but I haven't done that in years. One thing I'll mention - apparently I screwed up during the bearing install in my 1982 60 series. I must not have used enough oil. The first few loads really drew the amps, to the point where the cord was really warm. That all stopped but by 10 or 12 loads on the clock, I started hearing metal on metal scraping sounds occasionally during spin. Now its just a squeal. I quit using the machine. I hate re-doing work, but it sounds like I will at least need to go on there, pull it all down, and re-lube everything. Gordon |
Post# 499458 , Reply# 15   2/26/2011 at 15:37 (4,799 days old) by aldspinboy (Philadelphia, Pa)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Paul did u pull the washer AGITATE CAM BAR OUT...THEN BACK IN FOR THE BELT TO GET IN... THAT WAS A TRICKY PROCEDURE FOR ME.. ?
Hope this helps. When me and Mike did this without doing what was mention above ... My machine did the same thing the belt came right off and got frustrated and let it set for months lol. Darren k |
Post# 499951 , Reply# 16   2/27/2011 at 21:47 (4,798 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I was determined to make the Inglis run again (I had been challenged by Hubby to get it AND the Westy running this weekend, lest they meet the crusher...) but I wasn't convinced that the spin tube bearing was the cause of the problem. The proof is Darren's post - I remember his woes re-belting the lovely turquoise Lady K - and I just felt that there was something that I overlooked... I also had a good chat about the mechanics of the Whirlpool transmission with John L which helped enormously!
Well by golly, when I tried to tilt the Inglis to inspect the transmission again, I saw it - the clutch yoke was 'stuck'. I sprung it loose with a screwdriver and I was able to turn the drive pulley smoothly. It ran with no drag or resistance, so I hooked the belt back up. Again, I was able to turn the drive pulley by hand smoothly and easily. Looked promising! |
Post# 499952 , Reply# 17   2/27/2011 at 21:49 (4,798 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 499953 , Reply# 18   2/27/2011 at 21:53 (4,798 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I just had to shoot a short video of the washer in action!
Sorry about the bad lighting in the tub, the water is not dirty, honest! CLICK HERE TO GO TO turquoisedude's LINK |
Post# 499963 , Reply# 19   2/27/2011 at 22:40 (4,798 days old) by peteski50 (New York)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 499978 , Reply# 21   2/28/2011 at 00:57 (4,798 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 499991 , Reply# 22   2/28/2011 at 04:22 (4,797 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 499998 , Reply# 23   2/28/2011 at 05:57 (4,797 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 500039 , Reply# 24   2/28/2011 at 10:22 (4,797 days old) by aldspinboy (Philadelphia, Pa)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|