Thread Number: 33268
Really old Halo of Heat dryer question. |
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Post# 500788   3/2/2011 at 21:59 (4,775 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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My roommate has a Maytag 641C dryer in need of a rubber door gasket. I've been reading and researching through the archives and a few other places and I'm a little confused as to the correct part number for this gasket. Possible part numbers thus far include: 302448, 312238, and maybe even a few more. Which one is right?
Any thoughts? Dave |
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Post# 500793 , Reply# 1   3/2/2011 at 22:38 (4,775 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 500798 , Reply# 2   3/2/2011 at 23:39 (4,775 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 500813 , Reply# 3   3/3/2011 at 01:10 (4,775 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 500815 , Reply# 4   3/3/2011 at 01:29 (4,775 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Since it looks like this dryer will be getting some TLC in the foreseeable future, would the felt seal around the front of the drum opening fit the DE306 and DE806, or is it a different part number? I have access to the parts books for the 06 series, but nothing older.
I've done a full tear-down on a DE806 and it went well. I've got our DE306 apart at the moment. I just don't know if the earlier Halo of Heats are different than the 06 series that I've worked on before. A side note on the DE306: To turn on the dryer, you manually advance the knob to the point where it shut off, then you push in and turn to the desired setting, then release the knob. Is there a broken part of the dial or timer that causes this? Normally, I'd just turn the dial and push. The dryer will work, but it's really annoying since the dial doesn't turn as the timer advances. Thanks again, Dave |
Post# 500816 , Reply# 5   3/3/2011 at 01:33 (4,775 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 500820 , Reply# 6   3/3/2011 at 02:57 (4,775 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Whoops, yeah, it's 302448. My eyes, brain, and fingers all collectively had a big giant brain fart, lol.
Front drum seal is the same as an 806. Tear down process is the same as an 806, just less components in the way being a timed dry rather than moisture sensing design. It may or may not have the original ozone bulb and wiring in place. If the motor is original, it'll be the round, which can be disassembled, cleaned, oiled and re-assembled. Piece of cake ;) |
Post# 500841 , Reply# 7   3/3/2011 at 06:42 (4,775 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Post# 500845 , Reply# 8   3/3/2011 at 07:07 (4,775 days old) by COMBO52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 501588 , Reply# 9   3/5/2011 at 16:40 (4,772 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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A new rubber door gasket for the 641C was located and is now in shipping. I'll likely be starting on the 641C next week.
For right now, I have the DE306 all apart. Should the felt seal at the rear of the drum be glued to anything or is it supposed to float? The 306's bearings were dry as a bone. Fortunately I have a nearly new bottle of Zoom Spout for just such occasions. The fiber washers are pretty torn up. Where should the fiber washers go and how many of them should there be in each location? Since I'll be getting new ones, I might as well get their installation right! Thanks, Dave |
Post# 502462 , Reply# 10   3/8/2011 at 16:14 (4,769 days old) by miken ()   |   | |
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Where do I find a 302448 door seal for a "Halo of Heat"? Thanks, Mike |
Post# 502532 , Reply# 11   3/8/2011 at 20:25 (4,769 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Try PARTSELECT.com
I bought one for a DE606, but once I had the front apart, I realized I could have saved $30 by just installing the old gasket upside down, old worn area at the top and healthy sturdy untouched area at the bottom of the opening. The heating element shroud holds it in place perfectly. See the link, but check thru the website for yourself before deciding it's what you need. CLICK HERE TO GO TO akronman's LINK |