Thread Number: 33488
Maytag DE808 Restoration 11/10-12/10
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Post# 503701   3/13/2011 at 01:23 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Here's the top. Took everything out of the control console except the temp/dryness control switch, the switch plate activator, the bell and solenoid, and transformer. Later I'll take these out.




Post# 503702 , Reply# 1   3/13/2011 at 01:28 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Close - up of non removed parts.

Post# 503703 , Reply# 2   3/13/2011 at 01:30 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Over-head view.

Post# 503705 , Reply# 3   3/13/2011 at 01:32 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Front and top off. Light bulb removed. Wire labeling started.

Post# 503706 , Reply# 4   3/13/2011 at 01:35 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Close-up of tumbler.

Post# 503707 , Reply# 5   3/13/2011 at 01:37 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Where filter slips in and warped filter guard.

Post# 503708 , Reply# 6   3/13/2011 at 01:39 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Wires from console.

Post# 503709 , Reply# 7   3/13/2011 at 01:40 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Terminal block.

Post# 503710 , Reply# 8   3/13/2011 at 01:42 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Hole in top of inlet duct.

Post# 503711 , Reply# 9   3/13/2011 at 01:44 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Dirty exhaust duct.

Post# 503712 , Reply# 10   3/13/2011 at 01:46 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Found a comb and ATM card inside duct.

Post# 503713 , Reply# 11   3/13/2011 at 01:47 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Socket in good condition.

Post# 503714 , Reply# 12   3/13/2011 at 01:50 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Lens in place.

Post# 503715 , Reply# 13   3/13/2011 at 01:52 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Filter in good condition.

Post# 503717 , Reply# 14   3/13/2011 at 01:55 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Parts and equipment for work.

Post# 503718 , Reply# 15   3/13/2011 at 01:57 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Dirty outlet duct and wheel.

Post# 503721 , Reply# 16   3/13/2011 at 03:08 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Top/Cool-down thermostat. Bottom right/Low-cycling thermostat. Bottom left/Regular cycling thermostat.

Post# 503723 , Reply# 17   3/13/2011 at 03:14 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Starting to remove wiring.

Post# 503724 , Reply# 18   3/13/2011 at 03:17 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Heat chamber and shield before removal.

Post# 503725 , Reply# 19   3/13/2011 at 03:18 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Dryer front before painting.

Post# 503726 , Reply# 20   3/13/2011 at 03:21 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Dryer front has been replaced as evident from model number 408.

Post# 503727 , Reply# 21   3/13/2011 at 03:25 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Serial number indicates manufacture date as Aug. 1976, but I know that's not true.

Post# 503729 , Reply# 22   3/13/2011 at 03:28 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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I'll go with motor serial number EG (April 1980).

Post# 503730 , Reply# 23   3/13/2011 at 03:33 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Diagram I made.

Post# 503731 , Reply# 24   3/13/2011 at 03:36 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Schematic. I used spray adhesive to glue down the edges, then covered the label with packing tape for protection.

Post# 503732 , Reply# 25   3/13/2011 at 03:43 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Switch cleaned, soaked with silicone spray and blown out with compressed air.

Post# 503733 , Reply# 26   3/13/2011 at 03:44 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Back of switch.

Post# 503734 , Reply# 27   3/13/2011 at 03:46 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Parts collection in drawer gets bigger.

Post# 503735 , Reply# 28   3/13/2011 at 03:47 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Tumbler front.

Post# 503736 , Reply# 29   3/13/2011 at 03:50 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Worn out tumbler glides.

Post# 503737 , Reply# 30   3/13/2011 at 03:51 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Second glide.

Post# 503738 , Reply# 31   3/13/2011 at 03:55 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Tumbler without front.

Post# 503739 , Reply# 32   3/13/2011 at 03:57 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Tumbler out.

Post# 503740 , Reply# 33   3/13/2011 at 03:59 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Starting to look better.

Post# 503741 , Reply# 34   3/13/2011 at 04:01 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Tumbler cleaned and polished.

Post# 503742 , Reply# 35   3/13/2011 at 04:06 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Tumbler glides replaced. Removed moisture sensor strips, cleaned under them and put them back.

Post# 503743 , Reply# 36   3/13/2011 at 04:09 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Lens was over tightened in the past. Repaired it with high temp adhesive and replaced it.

Post# 503744 , Reply# 37   3/13/2011 at 04:11 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Removed duct from blower housing.

Post# 503746 , Reply# 38   3/13/2011 at 04:13 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Slid duct out the back.

Post# 503747 , Reply# 39   3/13/2011 at 04:17 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Cleaned exhaust duct.

Post# 503748 , Reply# 40   3/13/2011 at 04:19 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Put screw back on duct so as not to loose.

Post# 503749 , Reply# 41   3/13/2011 at 04:23 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Removed more wires. You can almost make out the high temp limit rating. I think it says 200-230. I had to test this one with a match. The hair dryer won't get that hot.

Post# 503750 , Reply# 42   3/13/2011 at 04:25 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Heat shield removal.

Post# 503751 , Reply# 43   3/13/2011 at 04:27 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Front screw.

Post# 503752 , Reply# 44   3/13/2011 at 04:28 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Back screw.

Post# 503753 , Reply# 45   3/13/2011 at 04:30 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Heat chamber comes out.

Post# 503754 , Reply# 46   3/13/2011 at 04:32 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Jumper from high limit stat to other end of element.

Post# 503756 , Reply# 47   3/13/2011 at 04:34 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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8 screws hold the tumbler front and back to the cabinet.

Post# 503757 , Reply# 48   3/13/2011 at 04:35 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Tumbler back with rollers.

Post# 503758 , Reply# 49   3/13/2011 at 04:37 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Back of tumbler back showing inlet duct assembly.

Post# 503759 , Reply# 50   3/13/2011 at 04:38 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Motor access opening.

Post# 503760 , Reply# 51   3/13/2011 at 04:39 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Inside of door, door switch, and door knob.

Post# 503761 , Reply# 52   3/13/2011 at 04:42 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Door gasket removed, interior door and gasket cleaned and reassembled.

Post# 503762 , Reply# 53   3/13/2011 at 04:48 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Snap ring, tumbler roller, fiber washer, and spring washer. Maytag guy here told me that the spring washers often make the rollers squeal, so I found a Mylar washer of the right thickness at "Ace" and replaced the spring washer with it and oiled it up with turbine oil.

Post# 503763 , Reply# 54   3/13/2011 at 04:51 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Testing of thermostats about ready to begin. Used hair dryer, thermometer, and ohm meter to do the test. All passed.

Post# 503764 , Reply# 55   3/13/2011 at 04:52 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Repainted base.

Post# 503765 , Reply# 56   3/13/2011 at 04:55 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Repainted cabinet.

Post# 503766 , Reply# 57   3/13/2011 at 05:14 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Gave motor a complete going over. Took it off its mounting bracket and cleaned it everywhere. Carefully oiled centrifugal switch with turbine oil and got it working freely. Put motor back in same position as it was when it came out of the bracket and snapped the green motor clips back over the motor mounts with a wide bladed screwdriver. Take note. One side is for hooking and the other is for clipping. It takes quite a lot of downward pressure to pop those clips back over those hooks. That's why it's important to get the motor back into its original position as which it came out. It makes it easier to replace those clips. Oiled idler pulley and idler arm shaft assembly with turbine oil and greased the motor mount frame where idler arm rubs against it with heavy lithium grease.

Post# 503767 , Reply# 58   3/13/2011 at 05:16 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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My collection of labeled screws.

Post# 503769 , Reply# 59   3/13/2011 at 05:23 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Belt needed replacing. Decided to soak rollers in break fluid instead of replacing. The old rollers are made out of metal. The new ones are plastic. I soaked the rollers a couple of days in the fluid and they softened up a bit. Reassembled the rollers with the snap rings, fiber washers, and new Mylars from "Ace". Everything worked great.

Post# 503770 , Reply# 60   3/13/2011 at 05:27 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Reassembled and greased the switch plate activator and spring.

Post# 503771 , Reply# 61   3/13/2011 at 05:29 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Reinstalled dial and knob.

Post# 503773 , Reply# 62   3/13/2011 at 05:33 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Soaked temperature and dryness switch with silicone spray, blew out with air compressor, and reinstalled.

Post# 503775 , Reply# 63   3/13/2011 at 05:38 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Cycle selector switch reinstalled. Solenoid linkage upside down. Will fix later.

Post# 503776 , Reply# 64   3/13/2011 at 05:40 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Over-head view.

Post# 503779 , Reply# 65   3/13/2011 at 05:42 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Blower and housing reinstalled on motor.

Post# 503780 , Reply# 66   3/13/2011 at 05:44 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Blower cover reinstalled. Checked felt seal. Added a little high temp adhesive on one side.

Post# 503782 , Reply# 67   3/13/2011 at 06:07 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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A few pictures of steps were left out. Put tumbler back back on, put new belt over tumbler, put tumbler back in (making sure felt isn't pinched), put tumbler front on making sure everything lines up and doesn't bind, fasten tumbler covers to cabinet with screws, threaded belt over drive shaft and around idler pulley, then turned tumbler by hand to position belt on tumbler in proper place and make sure everything is spinning properly. Placed wiring back in dryer per diagram. Put drum light back in it's socket. Soaked door switch with silicone lubricant, blew it out with air, replaced it in dryer front, attached wires, double checked wiring connections and replaced the front on the dryer.

Post# 503783 , Reply# 68   3/13/2011 at 06:08 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Finished front view.

Post# 503784 , Reply# 69   3/13/2011 at 06:10 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Finished angled view.

Post# 503785 , Reply# 70   3/13/2011 at 06:29 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Inside the control console. Cleaned and put all the wires back where they belonged, used small zip ties to replace tape that held the wiring harness together, placed thin film of light weight oil on bottom of circuit board and pushed it firmly into edgeboard connector. This helped it go back in easier and will help with better contact, too. Put the black plastic bag back over the circuit board and taped it down to the bracket. You can see where I turned the switch solenoid linkage over so it isn't angled and is level. This was the intended way. I put in a new fluorescent lamp.

Post# 503786 , Reply# 71   3/13/2011 at 06:50 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Then I replaced the motor access cover.

This dryer runs great. It will dry a heavy load of clothes in 30-35 min. About the time it takes to run a load of wash through the 806. No waiting around.



Post# 503788 , Reply# 72   3/13/2011 at 07:02 (4,764 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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One question: When I run a load on permanent press and the cool down cycle starts, the bell starts to ring and continues to ring about every two seconds for a total of 26 times until shut-off, for a total of 52-55 seconds, the normal cool down time for these dryers. It must be an intended function. I thought the bell may ring repeatedly because there's permanent press clothes in the dryer and wrinkles will set in permanent press if it's not hung up immediately. Any thoughts from any one, especially Maytag people.

Unfortunately this laundry room is tiny so they can't set side by side, but at least there's some good machines in there.


Post# 503799 , Reply# 73   3/13/2011 at 08:42 (4,764 days old) by varicyclevoice (Davenport, Iowa)        
the bell starts to ring

varicyclevoice's profile picture
First of all...thank you for the time you took to upload the pictures! You did an outstanding job on your restoration! It was a very detailed and thorough job and any Maytag repairman would be impressed. Congratulations on your accomplishment.

To answer your question regarding the bell on Permanent Press....I have the same dryer and it does the same thing you mentioned. The bell will "ding" repeatedly during the cool-down period for the reason you stated, to let the user know to take the clothes out before the dryer shuts off so they don't wrinkle. The bell only dings once I believe on the other cycles...to signal the end of the cycle.



Post# 503811 , Reply# 74   3/13/2011 at 09:51 (4,764 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)        

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Wow, I enjoyed all those pictures! Thanks!

I wondered where the light bulb for the drum went in the newer 'Tag dryers (the old ones had it behind the lint screen when it was in the bak cof the drum)...


-- Dave

(The Dryer Charles Klamkin recommends "regardless of price" along w/ at least One Norge model, supposedly Large Cap. & gives a Model # for the Gas & Elec. versions...)


Post# 503825 , Reply# 75   3/13/2011 at 12:01 (4,763 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Nice work!

volvoguy87's profile picture
Thanks for photo-documenting this! I've got a DE608 at a friend's house I need to go and get that could use some attention. I wish it were a DG808, but I'll see what I can get done. Now the job looks doable.

If anyone wants a DE608, let me know, it's not a perfect match for anything in my collection so it's sort of an oddball.

Dave


Post# 503850 , Reply# 76   3/13/2011 at 14:18 (4,763 days old) by wireman (Lansing, MI)        

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Very cool! Great job resoring it!
Duane


Post# 503951 , Reply# 77   3/14/2011 at 01:29 (4,763 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Todd,
Thanks for the response about the ringing bell. I don't recall anyone ever addressing this before.

Brian


Post# 503971 , Reply# 78   3/14/2011 at 07:17 (4,763 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
DE808 DRYER RESTORATION

combo52's profile picture

Brain fantastic and nicely detailed job restoring your dryer, it is really nice to be able to so fully restore an appliance.

 

The bell signals the start of the cool down on the normal dry cycle and then the 120 dregree cool down thermostat takes over operation of the dryers motor operation. Cool down time will wary according to load size and room temperature, we used to see some of these dryers where they were installed in hot furnace rooms that wouldn't shut off for an hour or more after the clothes were dried. This is way newer electronic controlled dryers went back to timed cool downs.


Post# 1168308 , Reply# 79   1/4/2023 at 14:14 (448 days old) by gouger05 (Texas)        
Fantastic

I know this thread is old, but this a fantastic resource. Thank you so much and excellent work!


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