Thread Number: 33743
Blue box mod1
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Post# 507126   3/26/2011 at 23:47 (4,772 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Looking at the following pictures and comparing them, what is different about the Whirlpool BD?




Post# 507127 , Reply# 1   3/26/2011 at 23:52 (4,772 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Ok, Here is picture 2. Also, what do you think these "changes" do? If you need hints, please ask.

Post# 507144 , Reply# 2   3/27/2011 at 01:36 (4,772 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
It looks like there is an extra button in picture #2. So what is that for?

Post# 507187 , Reply# 3   3/27/2011 at 06:27 (4,772 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
I'm gonna guess

akronman's profile picture
On 2 of my machines, I added switches to a) stop the timer motor and allow extra time anywhere in a cycle, and b) override the water level sensor to allow me to suck suds back up from the drain tub during agitation.

You've added a switch on top of the main console, and another one at the right side, maybe same 2 ideas as me?


Post# 507209 , Reply# 4   3/27/2011 at 08:42 (4,772 days old) by markk290 ()        
my guess

The switch on the side of the console is for shutting off the suds valve so the wash water isn't saved every time. Not sure what the other switch is for.

Post# 507219 , Reply# 5   3/27/2011 at 09:29 (4,772 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        
1/2

For MOD1 I added 2 switches. One is the toggle switch on the side. The other switch is on the console. This is not a suds saver machine, and I did not add a suds valve or modify the plumbing. Also the switch on the side does not stop current to the timer. So now, what type of switch in on the console? Think cosmetic.  OOOOOOOOO!! First time I've used the editing bar!!  Also, what was special about the TOL model of this machine when it comes to looks?  Here is a hint:


Post# 507222 , Reply# 6   3/27/2011 at 09:43 (4,772 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
automatic lighting

so it lights up automaticly when in the dark?

Post# 507428 , Reply# 7   3/27/2011 at 21:05 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

cfz2882 has it nailed! The photoelectric switch on the console is for the Metal Halide lamp. The toggle switch on the side bypasses the photoelectric switch, as the original light was shut off by the timer. The purpose of the MH lamp is for a tub light. The work light is the 3rd part of this mod. Lets go through the 1st part of the mod.

Post# 507429 , Reply# 8   3/27/2011 at 21:11 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Originally the timer dial lights up, but has a busted bulb.

Post# 507430 , Reply# 9   3/27/2011 at 21:13 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

There is some space in the console but not much.

Post# 507433 , Reply# 10   3/27/2011 at 21:20 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

I could have used a florescent light for this mod, but that would have been too easy. MH lamps get hot, so they need some space. They can also explode when coming it to contact with water. Such an explosion can cause someone to have a bad day. I have to a vapor tight fixture, clearances in the cabinet are tight, so it has to be mounted to the top of the machine.

Post# 507434 , Reply# 11   3/27/2011 at 21:25 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

The cabinet had to be modified too. What this picture does not show is the additional cutting I had to do to the right rear gusset bracket later.

Post# 507436 , Reply# 12   3/27/2011 at 21:27 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

The fixture has been mounted, and console area cleaned.

Post# 507439 , Reply# 13   3/27/2011 at 21:31 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Here is the ballast kit. I'm going to be very vague for the wiring side, as I don't want future viewers who know nothing about electric to attempt this.

Post# 507441 , Reply# 14   3/27/2011 at 21:33 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Picture of lamp start test.

Post# 507444 , Reply# 15   3/27/2011 at 21:35 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Lamp is out of start stage->fully on.

Post# 507448 , Reply# 16   3/27/2011 at 21:37 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Photoelectric switch mounted.

Post# 507449 , Reply# 17   3/27/2011 at 21:39 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Just a mess of wires...

Post# 507454 , Reply# 18   3/27/2011 at 21:41 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Button up the console->for now

Post# 507458 , Reply# 19   3/27/2011 at 21:44 (4,771 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

The first part of this mod is finished.

Post# 507812 , Reply# 20   3/29/2011 at 00:59 (4,770 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

Now there is a solution for those hard to find flourescent appliance bulbs-replace them with a metal halide bulb!I may have to do that for my WP and KN washers that need the new flourescent appliance bulbs-NO ONE has them here!But the metal halide bulbs and ballasts are EASIER to find!And the MH bulb should last longer,too.Like the vapor tight fixture maounted in the control panel.NEAT!!And the washer chassis serves as a heat sink for the ballast!It will last longer,too!If only light fixtures had better heat sinks for the ballast and igniter.Stay tuned-you may be able to get Digital electronic ballasts for such bulbs,Venture,Advance,are working on them.The photocell is interesting,too.Many fixtures have them so you could use the cell from a fixture.

Post# 508037 , Reply# 21   3/29/2011 at 20:31 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Hi Rex!
That's interesting, Florescent lamps hard to find? The 25W Incandescent bulb that this machine used cost me $3.50. Feit Electric brand, too bad this bulb isn't going to last 3 months. The MH lamps and ballasts are still widely available. Depending on where you get them the ballast kits can be expensive. Now I have seen MH lamps as small as 20W that use electronic ballasts. Even the electronic ones are costly.



Post# 508039 , Reply# 22   3/29/2011 at 20:34 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        
part 2

Now its time for mod1, part 2.

Post# 508042 , Reply# 23   3/29/2011 at 20:37 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Here is the underside of the top

Post# 508043 , Reply# 24   3/29/2011 at 20:41 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

MOD1, part 2 is the modification of the splash guard. I have an extra just in case I mess up. The other is slightly different, but will work.

Post# 508045 , Reply# 25   3/29/2011 at 20:48 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

The plan is to cut out different areas around the splash guard, place plexiglass over them so the light from the MH fixture can shine through. I marked areas around the splash guard to cut out, keeping in mind where the seal meets with the underside of the splash guard. The I've marked boundary areas around the cut-out in the center, as I don't want to weaken this area too much.

Post# 508047 , Reply# 26   3/29/2011 at 20:52 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Here is a picture of the amount of light in the machine from cutting out places on the splash guard. The plexiglass has not been put in.

Post# 508049 , Reply# 27   3/29/2011 at 20:54 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

The areas have been cut out.

Post# 508050 , Reply# 28   3/29/2011 at 20:56 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Splash guard drying from being cleaned in preparation for the plexiglass.

Post# 508051 , Reply# 29   3/29/2011 at 20:58 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Plexiglass placement

Post# 508052 , Reply# 30   3/29/2011 at 21:00 (4,769 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Sealer applied to areas. Time for plexiglass and sealer to cure

Post# 508100 , Reply# 31   3/30/2011 at 01:25 (4,769 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

the "Appliance flourescent bulbs just don't exist in my area.Tried all sources-even Grainger didn't carry them anymore-same with any of the appliance parts stores.Yet the MH ballasts and bulbs are available.I have two 400W MH,HP sodium digital ballasts-got them from Growers Supply.They work well with 400W Sodium bulbs,400W probe start MH and pulse start MH 400W bulbs.you cannot use the Philips "retro White" 400W MH conversion bulbs on these-it will blow the bulb.(Retro-White is a ceramic arc tube MH conversion bulb for 400W HP sodium-Philips also makes them in 250W.)I use the Philips bulbs on conventional HP ballasts only.The bulbs are available online.Will have to order some more-they are very nice bulbs-you can get WHITE light from a HP sodium fixture!I have several portable 35W and one 50W portable battery powered lights that use the "Xenide" bulbs.Like HID car headlights.you can get car headlight kits and adapt them to work on portable halogen spotlights.You get more light,longer bulb life,cooler operation and less power draw-the battery will run the light longer.I suppose one could use a car HID bulb for a washer lamp conversion-there are many types of power supplies about that can step the 120VAC down to 12VDC for the car HID bulbs ballast primary voltage.and the car ballasts can withstand heat and moisture.the car and portable HID bulbs ballasts are digital.Like the regular HID bulb the xenide ones would have to be protected from splashing.

Post# 508138 , Reply# 32   3/30/2011 at 07:05 (4,769 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
REPLACEMENT FLORESCENT LIGHT BULBS

combo52's profile picture

Rex and others WP still sells the 26" florescent bulb used in many WP & KM washer & dryers for the full width console light. You can also get them from Graingers but I recently found they were cheaper from WP.


Post# 508307 , Reply# 33   3/31/2011 at 00:17 (4,768 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

Graingers in my area was the first thing I tried-the store here didn't have the bulbs.Same with D&M appliance parts-and the lighting stores here-so my flourscent lights on my two washers that use them are dark.

Post# 508326 , Reply# 34   3/31/2011 at 06:57 (4,768 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Sweet

mrb627's profile picture

Now there's a couple of neat modifications.  I was gonna suggest some type of rope lighting around the underside of the D shaped lip.  But this looks like it will work just fine.

 

Malcolm


Post# 508332 , Reply# 35   3/31/2011 at 07:51 (4,768 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
One question.......How are you cutting into this porcelain without chipping it?......this is opening a whole world of possibilities......


Thanks Melvin



I also like Malcolm's idea of rope lights too!


Post# 508405 , Reply# 36   3/31/2011 at 14:53 (4,767 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Malcolm, I'm one step ahead of you. Yes, a good idea that I've been planning for 3 weeks now. It's MOD1, part3, Without revealing what it is yet.

Martin, I use a Craftsman Rotary Tool and cut-off disks for MOD1, part2. When you cut the porcelain it does still chip, so wear safety glasses (of coarse). Just cut the metal very slowly. The side you do the cutting on will be the most chipped. I should have cut from the bottom of the splash guard instead of the top. Look at the the edges of where I cut. There are small chips taken out, this is the side I applied the cutting wheel to.


Post# 508407 , Reply# 37   3/31/2011 at 15:01 (4,767 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Now look at the underside. Hardly no chipping. Lesson: If you want to keep the top porcelain finish looking good(the edges), cut from the bottom side.

Post# 508417 , Reply# 38   3/31/2011 at 15:50 (4,767 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
we all live and learn..........but loving these ideas.........

got me thinking about the rope lights, and hooking them up to the lid switch for activation......


Thanks for the pics


Post# 508420 , Reply# 39   3/31/2011 at 16:04 (4,767 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Lid switch for activation? You mean like the lights come on when you open the lid?

I'd say the best way is to replace the NO only momentary switch with a NO/NC momentary switch. Connect one lead to the lights to the NC terminal


Post# 508443 , Reply# 40   3/31/2011 at 18:03 (4,767 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MODIFIED LIGHTING SYSTEM FOR THE BLUE WP

combo52's profile picture

Hey pretty cool job Melvin. One reason the porcelain chips more on the top of the tub cover is that the porcelain coating is twice as thick on the top as compared to the blue base coat on the bottom. Can't wait to see the final lighting effect.


Post# 508806 , Reply# 41   4/2/2011 at 15:59 (4,765 days old) by aldspinboy (Philadelphia, Pa)        

aldspinboy's profile picture

Melvin that is nice that you got that washer I saw it at the Wash-- In at Jhons Place.

Nice work something to see and learn by, looking forward to seeing your results.

Should be pretty kool to see the lights where you have drilled good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

Darren k


Post# 509251 , Reply# 42   4/4/2011 at 16:32 (4,763 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        
MOD1, part 3

Thanks John, Darren!

Now! A tub/"wash" light has been added, but there is STILL a problem. What's wrong with this picture?


Post# 509289 , Reply# 43   4/4/2011 at 19:26 (4,763 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
unfortunately....the whole lens does not light equally, and not bright enough!.....but yet the dial is clearly lit, super sweet!

for all that effort you put into it, you would have thought it would have been a beacon to the sky.....


Post# 509312 , Reply# 44   4/4/2011 at 21:04 (4,763 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Correct Martin!
I didn't use a bigger lamp because I was worried about the heat that they give off. If I would have used 175 W med base ED17 instead of the 50W med base ED17 the light would have spanned across a lot better. The down side would be the same amount of heat as a standard 175W MH mogul base ED 28 lamp, a shorter lamp life, higher cost for the lamp, and not as easy to find locally. By shorter lamp life, I mean ~200 hrs, then all of a sudden something fails in the lamp. The MH 175W in the med base ED17 format cost on average ~$37 each vs. the bigger ED28, which cost ~$21 each. In general I have not had very good experiences with the smaller, more compact 175W ED17 med base lamps. The best solution I have for the work light issue is the flat LED rope light-> should be here in a few days.



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