Thread Number: 34150
Moving a front load washer
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Post# 512765   4/21/2011 at 06:51 (2,350 days old) by cyclemonitor ()        



Would I need to do anything special to move these machines?

A distance of about 20 miles in a open bed pick up.

Thanks for your input!

Post# 512773 , Reply# 1   4/21/2011 at 07:01 (2,350 days old) by dj-gabriele ()        

Well, just put back the transit bolts, otherwise just lay the machines on the side and you're done! Avoid any bumps on the street ;)

Post# 512779 , Reply# 2   4/21/2011 at 07:13 (2,350 days old) by cyclemonitor ()        
Transit Bolts




Not sure if I have them....   :o(


if I don't ...what next?

Post# 512784 , Reply# 3   4/21/2011 at 07:22 (2,350 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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If you have them reinstall the shipping bolts otherwise keep the washer upright. I have said that it is OK to lay TL washers on thier sides but a FLer should never be laid on its side unless all the factory shipping braces are installed. When driving with the  FL washer upright in the truck with no shipping bolts it is a good not to go flying over speed bumps but normal little bumps won't hurt a thing. Do strap the washer down as they like to tip. The dryer doesn't need any special cautions, just treat it as if it was a good piece of furniture, laying it on its side is fine if you want.

Post# 512802 , Reply# 4   4/21/2011 at 08:03 (2,350 days old) by steved (Guilderland, New York)        
Call a moving company

They use a generic stablizer "air bag" to secure the interior. You could maybe buy the kit from them. A self-storage place might even sell something.

Post# 512829 , Reply# 5   4/21/2011 at 11:35 (2,350 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        

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Don't forget to secure those drawers from sliding open while moving.



Post# 512835 , Reply# 6   4/21/2011 at 12:20 (2,350 days old) by mrx ()        

1) Drain the machine fully - (open the pump filter)
2) Remove all fill hoses.
3) Re-install transit bolts / braces.
4) Transport the machine using a hand-truck slid under the machine at the back (or as instructed on the machine's casing) The hand truck should have a long pallet to avoid damaging the internal components as the bottom of washing machines is usually open.
5) Place a thick blanket or duvet over the front of the machine when it is being transported in a truck/van to avoid damaging the decorative front / paint work.

NB: NEVER put a front loader on its side, back, or anything other than upright. The drum is mounted on springs hung from the top. If you put it on its side you will strain these, or in extreme circumstances the drum may even come loose! e.g. if you put the machine upside down.

You also risk allowing water to leak from the machine into electrical / electronic components if the machine is not on its feet.

In general, there is no problem transporting these machines provided they're upright.
If you don't have the transport bolts/braces, just move it gently and don't drive aggressively over bumps.

I cannot stress how important it is to keep the machine upright at all times.

Post# 513242 , Reply# 7   4/23/2011 at 13:09 (2,348 days old) by foraloysius (Groningen, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Great advice mrx!!!

I can only add one thing. If you don't have the shipping bolts anymore you can compensate a little by filling the drum totally with blankets so the drum can't move as much around as usually.

And yes, keep that machine upright!

Post# 513252 , Reply# 8   4/23/2011 at 14:33 (2,348 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        

Repair clinic and even Sears sells the shipping bolts for many FL washers. Another source is a local repair shop for washers.

Whether one "gets away" with no shipping braces all depends on the shock and vibration the unit "sees" in its move. If you want an exact answer than ponder if one needs egg cartons! :) :).

FL Washers that are steam washers often have a boiler/water chamber than fills when it is first connected to the water line. The washer then sits lower. This water often is still in the washer once one wants to move the unit; the unit weighs a few pounds more. To get the shipping bolts in again often requires lifting the drum/tub up a bit with an older washer too; the springs have sagged/creeped somewhat. Having a "helper" help push the drum upward often makes re-installing the shipping bolts easier.

Post# 513374 , Reply# 9   4/24/2011 at 08:27 (2,347 days old) by cyclemonitor ()        
Thank You!

I will dig around and see if I can find the bolts.

I remember cutting some straps also...I think.....

Post# 513379 , Reply# 10   4/24/2011 at 09:27 (2,347 days old) by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden)        

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I've transported a number of Miele washers in the back of my pickup with no operational issues afterward. Never have seen a shipping bolt for one.


I ease them up a ramp into the truck, and then position them upright against the far side of the bed (against the cab). The ride will be gentlest there, as opposed to hanging off the tailgate. Of course I avoid bumps and drive as gently as possible.


I've heard about the blanket trick and I think extra bed pillows (if you got them) would also work.


These machines are sturdier than one might thing. But of course if you hear clanging you're doing something wrong.

Post# 513446 , Reply# 11   4/24/2011 at 16:59 (2,346 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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Putting blankets or pillows in the tub will do no good what so ever and may even make it more lilkly that damage will occour if you end up adding any weight to the tub. How if you take the top off the machine and the lower front panel and pack stuff on the outside of the tub this could help.


3BW the steam generators on most FL washers only hold a few ounces of water and most SG are not mounted on the suspended tub assembly anyway, they are usually mounted directly to the cabinet.

Post# 513475 , Reply# 12   4/24/2011 at 18:16 (2,346 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        

The LG here when first connected made an oddball running water noises while its generator and tanks whatever filled up.

The washer to move around feels heavier thus MINE probably holds a gallon at least or even more on top of its 197 Lbs.

Its added water is more like a gallon or more than a few ounces.

My washer is not against the wall; I was still finishing up my laundry room; the washer weights noticeably more once first connected up to the water supply. It clearly it not a subtle thing at all.

It made this running water noise for many minutes, it probably is filling hoses and part of the tub/pump/sump with at least 1/2 gallon (32 oz) at least if washer feels harder to move around compared to brand new. The washer's tub also dropped a tad once the water is hooked up, ie the shipping bolts will not align unless one lifts up on the tub. Thus since there are zero leaks in the last 6 months; this added water is somewhere stored in the unit. Its added mass is more than a few postal letters; more like it has a gallon in it.

The unit made a water fill sound like an ice maker filling with water at first; then more like how a toilet tank is slowly filling over many minutes with a slower and slower trickle until the valve shuts off.

The whole thing was really odd; the noise slowly dropped and went away like charging capacitor; many time constants to finally shut off. I actually thought that I would see a leak somewhere on the floor; ie like split plastic chamber.

In order to sense that the washer weighs more the thing has to weigh a few percent more. I am not a Mettler balance.

If had to guess there is about 1/2 to 1 gallon of water somewhere in that steam washer at least; for me to feel it weighs more.

Post# 513476 , Reply# 13   4/24/2011 at 18:19 (2,346 days old) by 3beltwesty ()        

I actually moved the machine several times when the day I got it. Then I added the hoses; removed the bolts; turned on the water valves. The unit to when moved closer to the wall clearly had a some extra water if I noted it was heavier. I doubt if I can sense a few ounces on a 197 Lb device

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