Thread Number: 35238
HELP PLEASE! My GE washer run on slow speed only!
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Post# 526800   6/25/2011 at 06:16 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Hi all my ge filter-flo, 2 speed washer runs on slow speed only,this morning i run a load of wool on delicate cycle and slow speed, then i did a second load with whithes, i set the cycle and the normal speed and it started washing but it remained on slow speed, i tried to push again the speed buttons while washing and i only hear a "clunk" while changing in the back but nothing happend, what could be?
The belt should be changed, but it's not that wich slip, it's the motor wich runs on slow speed only, i know it's loud and the water of the "waterfall" wich goes on the filter comes out slow.....





Post# 526802 , Reply# 1   6/25/2011 at 07:06 (4,659 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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first of all..the motor itself is a one speed, always running at high....hence the fact the pump and water flow should be normal flow at all times, during filtering and spinning.......

and also that you hear the "click" of the solenoid that holds the arm so the clutch spins at the lower or higher speed.....


I would estimate your problem is the 2 speed clutch, and considering your saying its "loud", your having issues inside somewhere that needs attention, which could be anyone of many things gone wrong inside.....even possible the clamp inside has come loose, which is more probable


Post# 526807 , Reply# 2   6/25/2011 at 07:37 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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I've opened the back and not sure of what i was doing trying handling the motor and the clutch, under the clutch there was something round shaped with some square ledges, this thing turned in both directions, so i started turning it, at one point I felt that there was a certain resistance, I continued and after a "clank" it continued to move, I started the cycle and magically started to work as it should, i've only heard a sound like something slammed under the clutch for some seconds, but after I did not hear anything....after this description i'd like to know if someone can tell me what is happened, and if i've definitively fixed it, i won't try to use the slow speed again before.....

Post# 526808 , Reply# 3   6/25/2011 at 07:45 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Thank you Martin, the clamps are okay i've just replaced the pump 2 weeks ago and both clamps are okay......i guess something it's wrong with the clutch, wish to know if someone know what it is......

Post# 526814 , Reply# 4   6/25/2011 at 08:50 (4,659 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Clutch.

volvoguy87's profile picture
A new clutch is GE part #WH49X265. It's NLA, but one can be had on Ebay. Changing it out is a bit of a pain (the roll pin on top, specifically). You can also rebuild it. It's not too hard (new shoes / bearings). You can also replace the motor and clutch together. It's more $$ for the parts, but easier to do. There's a motor relay that should be replaced if you do this work. I don't know why it should be replaced, but it's clearly stated in the scanned repair guide on this site. I didn't replace the relay on mine and it killed my motor within 2 weeks.

Also, never change the speed with the washer running!

Good luck,
Dave


Post# 526821 , Reply# 5   6/25/2011 at 09:48 (4,659 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)        

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I have to echo the warning not to change the speed when the motor is running, too: That can cause the motor to run on one speed...

(Hopefully, though, when it's done constantly; I did that on my grandma's GE once, even being aware of that fact, but my one time just to see it run on 'Slow', then back to 'Normal', luckily didn't hurt it...)



-- Dave


Post# 526839 , Reply# 6   6/25/2011 at 12:41 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Thank you Dave for the part #, i tried to run it on slow speed but it only wash on normal speed now, better than slow anyway, i also tried to look on ebay for the part but no results,and some websites gives that one no longer available......
But, you said i could rebuild it? I saw some pictures and honestly I don't from where i could start with it, seems to be so complicated the stuff in that thing......


Post# 526856 , Reply# 7   6/25/2011 at 14:20 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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I'm almost sure that it has been damaged for some reasons by the leaking pump.....I've replaced it about 2 weeks ago, the leak should have been sice one month or more, dropping water on the motor and clutch, and damaging the belt also, i've noticed that sometimes slips since then .... in fact, my washer since some weeks used to start from the beginning with a strong agitation, instead of starting with slow agitation for few seconds and then hearing a "clunk" and starting normal agitation as it always did, (and i know also all the filter-flo), but i never thought it was a problem, as it always ran well, then the leak became bigger and i've noticed about.....

Post# 526858 , Reply# 8   6/25/2011 at 15:06 (4,659 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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It's OK to go from slow to normal while running, but hard on the equipment to go from normal to slow.


Post# 526865 , Reply# 9   6/25/2011 at 15:29 (4,659 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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the clamp I am referring to is the one inside....it holds the clutch to the motor shaft......I have seen 2 that have come loose, and that thing will rattle and work erratic likes its gonna fly apart....with the exception of that top pin, which is a PITA to remove, the assembly is nothing to work on and replace parts.....

if you can find a motor and clutch assembly together, it can be switched out in minutes........I got a whole new assembly and clutch for 25.00......night and day difference when starting up slow and then shifting to high with a new clutch...

its just a matter of how much you want to tear into this thing....


Post# 526869 , Reply# 10   6/25/2011 at 15:47 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Hi, it's not so simple, mine it's a 220 volt washer and i'm in Italy, I'd need a 220 volt motor and clutch assembly (are already rare to find the 120 volts one, i do not think i will be so lucky to find a 220 volt one) i would probably have to get it from U.S or Canada....paying alot for shipping also, i would be more than glad to get a new assembly for 25,00, almost impossible here.....could i try just to fix the clutch? Can it be fixed?

Thanks


Post# 526871 , Reply# 11   6/25/2011 at 16:03 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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I saw some pics of the clutch on the web, it seems so complicated all the stuff in there and that's the thing that stop me,i don't know what to do in there, i could even manage it and i wanna keep my washer most possible, i've replaced the oil seal under the pulley last year i took more than one week to get the tranny out, removing basket bolts, basket etc....so i'm a person that of course want to tear in things,but only if these are feasable, no matter the efforts......i just want not to do a mess....

Post# 526872 , Reply# 12   6/25/2011 at 16:04 (4,659 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Maybe find a local appliance repair shop, and see if they have a used one laying around.


Post# 526877 , Reply# 13   6/25/2011 at 17:01 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Local repair shops do not fix GE or american appliances, they just do the european brands and models, the only ones who fix american appliances are the dealers where you buy it,here in my area many Maytag and Speed Queen dealers but not GE, the nearest GE dealer is about 125miles far from here and they do not fix "older" models of GE nor they have their parts anymore,just new models and new parts for them, but even if were they would be soooo expensive, would be less found one on ebay from U.S, i just found a clutch for now, wish to know if it is necessary to buy a new one or if i can simply fix that one I already have, I'd like to know anyway if someone can explain to me how can i do.....
Thanks


Post# 526878 , Reply# 14   6/25/2011 at 17:27 (4,659 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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That's kinda the hard part, comming apart and going back together is really nothing, it's knowing what is broken if anything, and reassembling....the only way I learned was taking apart and laying all the pieces in a line, and taking lots of pics along the way just for a reminder of how it goes together.

once you get that pesky pin out, the top/outter drum lifts off, its sorta spring loaded, not something that will fly up and off on you, its just a strap of metal across the center pole that holds the shoes in place, and its curved which causes the spring action.....more or less since it does function for you, doesn't sound like its broken inside, more like something got bent out of shape......

you may also want to check and make sure the solenoid with the lever on the motors base plate is popping up and down like it should, this little unit is what touches the finger on the clutch to cause it to run at slow speed.......

we can try and talk you thru this, but a pic of yours would probably help, maybe we can see whats out of alignment for you.......220 or not, your clutch should be the same as the ones we have here in the US

Does the clutch unit as a whole, wobble?.....with it removed from the machine, can you place the unit on a flat surface, and wobble the clutch while the motor remains still........if so, this is just that little C-clamp inside has broken or come loose from the motor shaft...a simple fix

before you give it up to the ghost.....let's see if one of us can get you thru this and repaired.....

worst case is I can probably send you a whole clutch assembly, but your gonna have to mount it to your motor......tighten the clamp, slide the outter drum on top, push down and hammer in that pesky pin.....and your back in action again....


Post# 526880 , Reply# 15   6/25/2011 at 17:31 (4,659 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Look...

volvoguy87's profile picture
Look at the 1958 GE filter Flo Service Manual scanned in the Library section of AW.org's home page. In it, you'll find tons of info on the GE 2-speed clutch, how it works, and how to service it. I can't figure out how it works, despite its being a relatively simple mechanism that I've taken apart and put back together several times.

Be patient, it's a big .pdf file.
Dave


Post# 526891 , Reply# 16   6/25/2011 at 18:23 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Hi Yes Sure! I will take a pic as soon as possible! Anyway Yes the washer haves the same parts there're in US, mine comes from US, even if it is Canadian Made, anyway i will take a pic of mine soon.
In the meantime i've found on ebay Canada a 120volt motor+clutch assembly wich seems to be the same as mine,i will post the link.
Sorry but i did not understand very well what i've to do with the motor and the clutch to understand if it is the clamp or not, yes I'm able remove the motor assembly, but not sure about how remove the clutch and repair it, i could do everything but i would need some specific and detailed explanations, as this part of the washer it's greek to me.
Thank you so much for your help!


CLICK HERE TO GO TO kenmoreguy89's LINK on eBay


Post# 526892 , Reply# 17   6/25/2011 at 18:37 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Forgot to say: That metal thing in the picture under the clutch wich is covered by the green and yellow writing seems to be that thing wich turns back and forth, turning it with my finger this afternoon made the washer running from slow speed only to normal speed only, do not know if it is normal..... hope this could tell you more.

Post# 526896 , Reply# 18   6/25/2011 at 18:59 (4,659 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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that solenoid to the right on the motor base plate is what either lets the bottom part of the clutch spin for normal speed, or holds it still for slow speed.....

without it, or not plugged in...your machine should operate at high speed at all times...although your machine will still start out slow and then kick into high gear....its this underneath section that has to wind up and spread its clutches by centrifical force that engages the high speed.....


but at that price...I would grab it.....

is your motor operated on 220....or just seperated to operate on 110.....most Canadian models that I know of still operate at 110, but I could be wrong...


Post# 526936 , Reply# 19   6/26/2011 at 02:22 (4,659 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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My motor operate on 220 volt, and this ebay seller does not ship to Italy, i asked to my sister to push the speed buttons while running to see what happened inside, nothing happends.....the solenoid does not move....if i've understand well it should move holding or not the the clutch, but is it normal that the under part of the clutch turns back and forth? All the wires of the solenoid are okay, maybe i need just a new solenoid, I don't know......

Post# 526961 , Reply# 20   6/26/2011 at 06:50 (4,658 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
that solenoid should pop up and down when you hit the switch......what you can do is unplug the solenoid, and run the machine, it should be at full speed wash and spin............next take a piece of tape and wrap over the solenoid to make the little arm raise, and then run the machine again, you should now be in low gear.....if the machine runs fine otherwise, then yes I would say its just your solenoid......you can run a tester on the wires comming to the solenoid to make sure you have power there, note: it only "energizes" during the gentle selection....and you can run the machine fine at full speed without the solenoid, its only there for gentle speed

the motor, clutch, pump reverse directions for each action.......clockwise for agitation/filtering, and counter-clockwise spin/drain.....it does not oscillate.....the underside of the clutch should start to spin and gain speed to engage high speed, in either direction....it remains at "idle" during gentle speed


Post# 526996 , Reply# 21   6/26/2011 at 10:44 (4,658 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
50HZ rpm

if you are running 50 HZ power over there in italy,and get replacement clutch parts
make sure they are meant for 50HZ rpm-clutch will not work right if it is 60HZ
version running at 50HZ rpm-clutch runs as a centrifugal governor in low speed mode
the weights connected to the shell fly out at a given rpm to release the inner drum
-come back in to engage the drum when shell slows below release speed.
That low speed part of a 60hz clutch should work ok on 50hz,but if 60hz shoes are
are used at 50hz inside the inner drum spin acceleration may be slow.
Make sure the drivebelt is tight enough not to slip as the aluminum pulley
groove in the shell will wear rapidly if belt slips.


Post# 527063 , Reply# 22   6/26/2011 at 17:13 (4,658 days old) by kenmoreguy89 (Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.)        

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Thank you Martin, i will check again the solenoid and in the meantime i will take some pics to show you, you'll find very dirty inside there as the oil leak that i had about 1 year ago left the sign everywhere in to the cabinet, i could even take off the motor unit if it is not the solenoid, hope to have time to do this this soon... i'll be very busy with work this week.
Dave, i took a look to the service manual about the 2 speed clutch, but honestly i don't understand anything......
Thank you so much guys for your help!


Post# 527073 , Reply# 23   6/26/2011 at 18:17 (4,658 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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I am hopeing that the oil did not get into the clutch, then you really have something to clean out there, your not even supposed to put a single drop of lubricant anywhere inside that unit, water from the pump will usually dry with no issues, many of us have had that oil drip from the tranny, but once fixed, I usally get brake parts cleaner, from an auto store, and spray down everything before re-assembly...this stuff will clean off the oil, leave no residue, and dry in seconds, I also place paper towels underneath just to catch everything and then toss......

but lets see where we can go with this first....

I am concerned about the 220 and the 50hz, and if this setup is different than what I am used to......



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