'70s Maytag


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Thread Number: 355
'70s Maytag

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Post# 47653 10/23/2004 at 21:08 (7,122 days old) by petebldg9 ()
Checkrate/Likes Hi all, I was browsing at my local Salvation Army and came across an old Maytag washer with a pricetag of $45. It's white, with the center timer dial with two push-button controls to the right (fast or gentle wash action, and wash temperature) and water level push-buttons to the left. It's a standard capacity, with the signature short turquoise 4-vane. I'm very tempted to join the ranks of all of the re-modelers on this site. I figure I can take on at least one machine in my place. For all of you already involved...I've never remodeled an old machine before and am hesitant. However, I have plenty of patience and can follow printed directions. What advice do you have for me should I pick up this machine? Robert, anyone? Pete

Post# 47656 , Reply# 1 10/23/2004 at 22:07 (7,122 days old) by maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)
Checkrate/Likes *Good grief!* If I had room for more machines (I currently live in an apartment, with just room for one washer and dryer), I would be "fighting" you for that machine. It sounds like an A-206 or an A-208, and it probably only needs cosmetic attention, and perhaps new hoses at the most. That was when Maytags were really built. I sincerely hope you are able to go back and get it. Lawrence/Maytagbear

Post# 47658 , Reply# 2 10/23/2004 at 22:11 (7,122 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)
Checkrate/Likes *snatch it up* It's a good machine to play with - sort of a primer for a later "dream machine" so you can see how it's put together, take it apart, read the service manual (ebay) and before you know it, you'll have a whole basement full of 'em! Best of luck and enjoy the "new washer euphoria"!

Post# 47669 , Reply# 3 10/23/2004 at 23:49 (7,122 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes *What Fun!* Hi Pete, I absolutely agree with Greg and Lawrence, go back and get it. For $45 you have nothing to lose. If nothing else, play with it for a few weeks and throw it away. Or take it apart to start the learning process of how these machines work and how to restore them. Worse comes to worse you can't get it back together and you can get rid of it but it will be a great learning experience, not to mention a very fun toy.

Post# 47681 , Reply# 4 10/24/2004 at 09:32 (7,121 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes Maytags like that one are usually bulletproof.Most times they'll just need belts,and maybe a roller kit for the motor. Both easy fixes.Go for it! kennyGF

Post# 47696 , Reply# 5 10/24/2004 at 13:56 (7,121 days old) by fixerman ()
Checkrate/Likes I always look for signs of leaking oil from the bottom indicating the transmission shaft seal is bad. Oil under the rubber cap on the transmission pulley. Usually sprays oil out and collects on the bottom inside edge of the cabinet.

Post# 47699 , Reply# 6 10/24/2004 at 16:52 (7,121 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes Greg,are those seals tough to do? I've got a Maytag 808 with those symptoms in the shop now,and I've never done one.Hate to break up a matched set,especially a Harvest Gold pair.Thanks! kennyGF

Post# 47702 , Reply# 7 10/24/2004 at 18:02 (7,121 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)
Checkrate/Likes *maytag 808* Goatfarmer what does that harvest gold maytag set look like It might be close to what I got in the basement of my house. pete

Post# 47703 , Reply# 8 10/24/2004 at 18:07 (7,121 days old) by fixerman ()
Checkrate/Likes Easiest way is to find a transmission from another machine that is not leaking. Replacing the whole trans is not too bad of a job. To replace the seal, (it is actually an o-ring) Remove the tub and every thing down to the transmission. Remove drive pulley. Remove trans. Remove the bolts to separate the top. Drain the oil. Remove the gears. Remove the drive shaft. There is an O-ring about 1/2 inch below the top of the shaft hole. You have to fish it out with a sharp bent tool of some kind.I use a tool similar to a dental pick. Install new o-ring and reassemble with new oil. (or if you're cheap like me use the old oil if it is not contaminated)

Post# 47792 , Reply# 9 10/25/2004 at 19:33 (7,120 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes Sounds like a lot of work! Normally,I try remedy #1,which is find another working large tub Maytag,and switch the cabinets.That's the plan now,thanks! Pete,they're all darker gold,not shaded at the corners,has the lighted backsplash,gold area around the pushbuttons. kennyGF

Post# 48724 , Reply# 10 11/6/2004 at 17:46 (7,108 days old) by petebldg9 ()
Checkrate/Likes *Got It !* Thanks for the advice everyone - I took it. After thinking about it for a few weeks, I went back and it was still available. I grabbed it. The back right corner of the lid opening has a steel plate. The most I could make out was Model A-208 and "The Maytag Co., Iowa". The price was $45. When I unloaded it off of my truck, about a 1/2 gallon of water shot out of the drain hose, which tells me it may have been used recently. The center timer dial consists of two cycles - Regular and Perm Press. The sequence of buttons along the bottom of the panel are as follows: (left of timer dial): hot/warm, hot/cold, warm/cold, cold/cold. (To right of dial): Regular action, Delicate action; small load, medium load, large load. I was impressed that everything seemed to be intact and in good shape, even the softener cup and filter in the agitator post. At most, they need a good soaking in Lime-Away! Does anyone have advice? This is the only machine I have room to re-condition, and I'll probably make it a slow project, step-by-step. Specifically, does anyone know what model year this might be? Also, I haven't tested it yet, but assuming it needs work, how do I prioritize? I may just have some pieces professionally repaired, while I work on less-risky parts (e.g. water pump) since I'm a beginner. If anyone has thoughts, let me know. I don't have the equipment to post pictures, otherwise I'd do so. Also, I'm still having thoughts of "What did I get myself into?" !! I'm sure I'll get past it :). Thanks, Pete

Post# 48735 , Reply# 11 11/6/2004 at 21:53 (7,108 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)
Checkrate/Likes You could not have chosen a better machine to restore for a first timer. Almost all parts can be seen and repaired by removing the cabinet front. Take it for a test run with the cabinet front off and watch how it works, what leaks, etc.

Post# 48746 , Reply# 12 11/7/2004 at 03:04 (7,107 days old) by fixerman ()
Checkrate/Likes Also look at the transmission pulley on the bottom for signs of oil leaking. If it leaks it could be a problem. A little weeping is probably normal but if there is significant oil leaking the trans will need to be rebuilt. This would be the biggest problem you might face.

Post# 48770 , Reply# 13 11/7/2004 at 14:48 (7,107 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes I think a 208 will date from the early to mid 70's. kennyGF

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