Thread Number: 35911
Take a look at my KD-12 |
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Post# 535574 , Reply# 1   8/7/2011 at 18:38 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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Looking inside... |
Post# 535576 , Reply# 2   8/7/2011 at 18:39 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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The detergent cup, with detergent ready to go! |
Post# 535577 , Reply# 3   8/7/2011 at 18:40 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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An enterprising solution to small items slipping through the silverware basket. |
Post# 535578 , Reply# 4   8/7/2011 at 18:41 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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Fairly clean inside and no chips in the porcelain. |
Post# 535579 , Reply# 5   8/7/2011 at 18:42 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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Filter screens |
Post# 535580 , Reply# 6   8/7/2011 at 18:45 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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The sump area. The house this dishwasher came out of obviously had hard water. |
Post# 535581 , Reply# 7   8/7/2011 at 18:46 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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The water inlet manifold looks iffy |
Post# 535582 , Reply# 8   8/7/2011 at 18:50 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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Looking underneath. The wiring looks pretty good overall, but there's some rust which doesn't bode well. What do you think? |
Post# 535584 , Reply# 10   8/7/2011 at 18:58 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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So, what do you think? This will be my first major appliance restoration and I'm hoping to take advantage of the wonderful collective wisdom here!
Neil |
Post# 535595 , Reply# 12   8/7/2011 at 20:11 (4,616 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)   |   | |
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Just went searching for some parts for your machine and found this where there are alot of good parts available. You may find some of what you may want here. Give it a shot! Good Luck CLICK HERE TO GO TO stevet's LINK on eBay |
Post# 535601 , Reply# 13   8/7/2011 at 20:34 (4,616 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 535602 , Reply# 14   8/7/2011 at 20:41 (4,616 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 535603 , Reply# 15   8/7/2011 at 20:50 (4,616 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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Post# 535617 , Reply# 16   8/7/2011 at 21:38 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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The drain solenoid is still there. It remains to be seen if it works. I'm just missing the actually valve/drain coupling. This is a gravity drain model. |
Post# 535626 , Reply# 17   8/7/2011 at 22:44 (4,616 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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The door gasket is dried up and crumbling a bit at the bottom. |
Post# 535628 , Reply# 18   8/7/2011 at 22:48 (4,616 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 535776 , Reply# 19   8/8/2011 at 18:39 (4,615 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)   |   | |
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Post# 535779 , Reply# 20   8/8/2011 at 18:43 (4,615 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)   |   | |
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Photo 2 of 2: Obviously, it would need to be de-rusted. The bottom of the valve casting is different for the 12P, which has a pipe outlet that fits directly into the top of the water sump. The bottom of the valve casting for the 12 is fitted for a drain pipe connection. But I belive that the sump could be removed, and with some creative plumbing, adapted for gravity drain use. Mike |
Post# 535782 , Reply# 21   8/8/2011 at 18:54 (4,615 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)   |   | |
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Post# 535799 , Reply# 22   8/8/2011 at 21:17 (4,615 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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For years now I've often thought of different ways to eliminate the need for the original style 10-14 series drain valve, as well as the original 10-11 series auxiliary pump, or 12/14 series integrated pump.
Sure, you would not get the reassuring sound of a full-size slide solenoid operating, but you'd still have a functioning dishwasher. Moving forward this will be key to keeping these machines running (on top of finding wash pump seals). Use a flange from a B&G circulator pump on the outlet side of the tub, convert it to a 90 degree elbow and drop the size down to 5/8, use a drain valve from a 16-17 series machine, then use an auxiliary pump if needed. Unfortunately I got rid of a parts 12 machine before I could test this theory. It all hinges on getting a flange to work with the original tub. The auxiliary pump could then be activated by the solenoid contact on the timer, as well as the new coil for the drain valve, or some creative TTL programing for those adventurous types who like custom cycles :) Ben CLICK HERE TO GO TO swestoyz's LINK |
Post# 535830 , Reply# 24   8/9/2011 at 07:04 (4,615 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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As Ben and Mike and others suggested there are many to fix these simple rugged DWs. If you want to gravity drain one of these machines you could use a dump valve from a commercial FL washer. If you want a pump drain installion there are any number of newer style drain pumps that could be adapted. You wouldn't generally need to add a drain valve and a pump . One other thing to keep in mind is that a relay may have to be added as the timer contact for draining only supplies power when the machine is NOT draining. That way the timer will activate the relay coil and the relay will open the contact to the drain valve or drain pump. |
Post# 535835 , Reply# 25   8/9/2011 at 07:29 (4,615 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 536030 , Reply# 29   8/9/2011 at 19:29 (4,614 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)   |   | |
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Steve, The KD-12P that I parted out was missing the motor (and pump as you describe), which explains why I can not find the pump in my box of parts. I do have the pressure switch and hose that leads back to the sump. Neil, If you decide to go with a conversion and need any of the parts I have mentioned, just let me know. Mike |
Post# 536362 , Reply# 30   8/11/2011 at 09:05 (4,613 days old) by henry200 ()   |   | |
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Mike, I sent you a message via your aol email from "fonds8" |
Post# 536369 , Reply# 32   8/11/2011 at 09:40 (4,613 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Perhaps the gasket just needed more time to soften up after being dry for a long time?
Absolutely, the gasket shrinks over time and hot water makes it expand and seal again. It usually takes 24 hours for the the gasket to repair itself if it is going to (which doesn't always happen). I never look for new-old-stock gaskets, I always cut new ones from fresh roll-cork or sheet neoprene. New-old-stock cork gaskets dry-out and degrade many times simply by sitting on the shelf. Sometimes even new gaskets wont work if the cut area in the metal has rusted or deformed from moisture, in that case I use Permatex Ultra-blue non-toxic silicone which has never once not stopped a leak. |