Where that solid bar you dislike is on the LH side, there should be an auxiliary cup-rack. In your model they cheaped-out and gave you that annoying divider that serves no purpose. I've seen the upper racks with the cup-rack show up on ebay from time to time. Some of these racks, like yours, have those wheels on the upper part of the back of the rack. I never quite understood what their purpose was unless it was an attempt at stabilizing the rack as it was moved in and out.

This is one of the all time best Upper Racks (with the cup rack) to be used in a front-loading dishwasher. The bottom rack and the silverware basket are primitive.

And I"M with Darren on this. So many people on here b*tch about the tower wash system not being as good as two separate wash arms on GEs (can we say Potscrubber II models). But, I had extremely rare instances in the 19 years I had this machne where something dindn't come clean in one of the top rack corners and mine aws BobLoaded to the gills on some of the most filthyiest dishware/cookware loads and sometimes completely blocked any awter from getting up to the top rack from the multi-orbit wash arm. All that washed the top rack was the tower.

Peter, the link doesn't work. 

I'll have to look, Gordon, but I think I have one of those in a portable.

I have the 2800 series.

It is a great machine!

This is a replacement machine.

My original machine had blue racks.

Still love this machine!

Blue

David you are correct with your assumption about the 1200's ashing capability, confirmed by John LeFever.  Funny ting is, I could never really discerne any real difference in spray pattern as it ran through a cycle.  But I am sure it did.  Because I was having people over so much for dinner in those days (when I could afford to have company, I got to "demo" the machine's outstanding capabilities.  I actually sold 2, if not 3 1200s during that time. 

Gary, I"ve never seen racks that color for that era of GE dishwahers.  I loved those angled tines in the racks, helped things remain upright far better, especially with thick heavy american pottery so common in our dishware these days. 

Model # GSD2800L03

Picked it up several years ago in Massachusetts via Ebay!

Gary, I remember when ya got that.  I guess I just could never see sXs comparison photos between the two colors. 

Even came with the instruction manual!

Peter, I find it difficult to believe to believe this was a later version of this machine than my 1987.  The reason being it uses more water than comparable cycles in the guide Gordon scanned and there is no mention of the temeprature sensor 120 system being available to extended wash times, other than PotScrubber cycle having extended main wash time, all rather counter to what was going on at the time as the year progressed--using less water and more std. water heating so households could turn down their water heaters to 120 degrees.  This reminds me more of what would have been on this model when it was first introduced as a PotScrubber III (with Debbie Reynolds in a magazine ad we've seen).  This was when the 1200 was the TOL before the 2800 arrived on the scene.  Also, there is no real difference between Normal wash and Energy Saver wash, which as far as I'm concerned is a real joke at trying to pass it off as an Energy Saver cycle. 

kevin, I saw the type of top rack your machine has toward the end of these Super Racks as we knew them.  I think I saw them on a "high-end" Hotpoint and maybe a mol GE.  In fact, I now remember where I saw it--had some friends that lived here and fell in love with my dishwasher.  When they moved back to lexington, KY and built a new house, they specified a GE 1200 (this was like in late 1991 or early 1992 and by then they had come out with the Quiet Power line.  I was actually kinda jealous of the top rack in that new 1200 because it was far more flexible than what Gordon and mine had.  Incidentally, when I returned home from visiting my friends there in KY about 1993 or 1994, the next time I used my dishwasher, something happened to the cam mechanism on the cycle buttons and the button no longer stayed pushed in when you started the dishwasher, it just popped back out when you released it from holding it down to start the cycle.  The heated dry buttons still worked properly. 

Actually Gordon, you can start a cancel/drain cycle from the off position and it will go all the way around.  You don't have to start one cycle and then simply push the cancel button. 

Well Peter, I"m gonna be the devil's advocate so to speak and split hairs with you.  You cannot simply go by "label" of cycle, you have to look at comporable sequences.  As I have stated before in discussing these differences, what was Normal on my model later became Heavy Soil and that's a comparable comparison.  What was Light Wash on my model later became Normal Cycle.  Except for China-Crystal, all comparable cycles used more water on the S version than others, including rinse & hold.  You look at essential sequence, not label.  (It's kinda like some people on here bitch because their Duet doesn't have a cycle called Permanent Press on it, but the manual clearly states the Normal/Casual cycle is intended for, including, wrinkle free and permanent press items).    Another way of looking at this is the layout of the buttons.  From left to right, each ensuing button was for a lower performing/lower soil requirement.  They simply dumbed down in a way the terms, trading Normal for LIght, and Heavy for Normal.  (Kinda like that last of the PlwerCleans, Normal started with the main wash phase, no "prewash", so you had to use "heavy wash" if you wanted to have dual detergent washes.  It's simply manipulating terms again to satisfy some government requirement.  But then again, I look inside the covers rather than simply accept what the cov er of the books says.  It's also kind of like on the new Maytag Maxima's, default normal soil is the equivalent of heavy soil (and time length of cycle) on the cmparable Duet model.  Just like I stated above, I habitually used Light Soil because it was simply the equivalent cycle (in terms of sequence of events) for what many other brands at the time had as normal (prewash, rinse, heated main wash, and two post wash rinses).  And my energy saver cycle was the equivalent of most light soil cycles--maybe a prewawsh but then a shortened main wash (probably without temp boost) and two rinses, which si what my energy sagver cycle was.  I used it for light soil or for soil that haedn't sat for more than aday or if I was doing some cooking and baking and that was the perfect cycle for stuff that hadn't become encrusted.  And as I've said before, I knew my Normal Cycle was the equivalent of most other's heavy soil cycle and I didn't reaklly use it, if I felt I needed better performance over the Light Soil (which gleefully took care of cooked on oatmeal and other starches which had sat for several days), I jsut simply went straight to PotScrubber.  Even with dinner guests of 10 & 12 and just tableware put in there, Light Soil was more than adequate. 

$50

By the early 1980s all DWs were required to be able to operate on 120 water, as they still are.  Remember the silly MT BD DW that didn't even have a heater in the late 1970s, that machine went away in the early 1980s.