Thread Number: 36745
Maytag Question
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Post# 546691   9/30/2011 at 20:01 (4,562 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

beekeyknee's profile picture
How in the world do you remove the keeper groove pin from the bottom of the agitator drive shaft on a helical drive trans. I tried a 1/4 inch punch which fit perfectly in the pinion, put a piece of wood under the pinion for protection as well as some wood covered with cloth under the trans. neck for protection and struck it a few times. No budge. It was hard to hold the shaft and upper trans. plate still while doing this. The pinion bit down into the wood and was aligned with the hole, but I was afraid of a miss strike and damage to the upper plate, pinion, or shaft. I hit it hard a few times and quit.

Next I tried a big C-clamp and a cut off mandrel turned around so the small side went to the pin and the flaired side went against the stable side of the C-clamp, put a piece of composite decking wood, which I thought was hard stuff, on the other side and drilled holes in it and bolted it down to the holes in the upper plate that holds the trans. halfs together for stability. I thought this would get it. I got everything aligned and and started tightening the clamp. The pinion bit into the composite and then eventually smashed the composite. The pin didn't budge.

Then I took it to a machine shop to see if it could be pressed out. The old boy told me that by the time he devised something that would work it would cost me more than it was worth. He said why not just clean it really well and put some trans. oil down in that hole until it was working nicely and call it good.

I finally gave up and did that and it seemed to work really well. I polished up the top of the shaft(under the agitator)with emery paper until it shined, washed the whole thing in kerosene and oiled it with trans oil and it seems to work well.

In the past the Maytag guys must have had a gear form that clamped around this pinion with a clamp bolt that pushed this pin out. Any thoughts Maytag people?

This was the only part I had trouble with. The trans is back together again with an 85-90 GL-4 gear oil. It's honey brown with about the same viscosity. The back of the bottle said it was compatible with phosphor-bronze washers and yellow metals, so I figured It would be safe. The old oil was black and thick as molasses. It turns much easier now. I will post when finished.

Does anybody know what people used to get those keeper pins out? There must have been a way without a hydraulic press.





Post# 547327 , Reply# 1   10/3/2011 at 22:10 (4,559 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)        

There's a thread where qsd-dan talks thru a transmission rebuild. Perhaps you've already read it?

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Thread Number: 22830

Post# 358593, Reply# 21 06/21/2009 at 20:03 by qsd-dan

"Driving the groove pin out of the collar was a royal PITA. I ended up taking it to a machine shop and they pressed it out. I also had some rust where the wicking once resided. If you have the same issue, just lightly sand the rust off of the shaft. Squeaky clean everything, lube, and re-assemble. You'll probably need a new groove pin. Part # for a new pin is 210183."

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So you are not alone in having a challenge getting it loose.
I also need to replace the input shaft on my A606.

One might try freeze-off from CRC Industries, said to be better than liquid wrench.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO fltcoils's LINK


Post# 547389 , Reply# 2   10/4/2011 at 07:19 (4,558 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
REBUILDING THE AGITATOR SHAFT AND BEARINGS

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We never repaired this part when we rebuilt MT washer transmissions in the old days as MT sold the complete top cover of the transmission complete with the shaft and bearings, so it was much more cost and time effective to just replace the whole cover. And still when fixing one these I just find a good used one that water has not gotten into and with new seals it will last a very long time. The big problem with trying to rebuild this is that you need new bearings and a new agitator shaft to do this correctly and have a lasting repair. If you can't find a good donor you could take this to a machinist that could make new bearings and turn down the scored and rusted shaft.  Good Luck, let us know how it turns out.



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