Thread Number: 37069
A3260 Manual plea (!)
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Post# 551399   10/23/2011 at 12:35 (4,540 days old) by redrose ()        

Hello. This is my first post as a new member. I was delighted to find this site. I thought it was just me who was convinced that older machines were FAR better built and more easily maintained than the new stuff. I have a Hoover A3260 which was a wedding present in 1984. Unfortunately (that's an understatement) my wife died recently (Sep 2011)from cancer aged just 49, but we always loved our Hoover electron 1100. Like Trigger's broom it's had lots of new parts e.g. seals, brushes, bearings, solenoids etc. I am able to maintain it and I wouldn't part with it unless it exploded. I even, 15 years ago, completely disassembled the Crouzet electro-mechanical switching unit and rebuilt it. I'm a graduate mechanical engineer with a passion for aircraft, motor bikes and anything else which responds well to a bit of engineering TLC, and these old Hoovers make me feel like things really were better 20-30 years ago.

Does anybody have a copy of the use manual for the A3260? I just need to understand the washing cycles. Since my wife died I now have to use it rather than just repair it when it needed attention. She always used the "M" - Delicates - setting but I think I can save time and money by using more appropriate cycles.


Any help would be much appreciated.





Post# 551403 , Reply# 1   10/23/2011 at 13:42 (4,540 days old) by aquarius1984 (Planet earth)        

aquarius1984's profile picture
Hi there

Welcome to the site, Very Sorry to hear about the loss of your wife.

M is a really delicate cycle and it has a slow spin speed at the end which is not really good for cotton items especially if you tumble dry.

The manual wont really help you s its just a description of various things.

Dont ever worry about the time it takes to wash a load most programmes are about 1 hour to 2 hours and using short cycles for some things just wont get them clean. also you will end up with a smelly dirty washing machine that will contaminate garments.

I will explain how to do your laundry and how to get the best results following in my next post.

Rob


Post# 551404 , Reply# 2   10/23/2011 at 13:53 (4,540 days old) by aquarius1984 (Planet earth)        

aquarius1984's profile picture
Ok

Sort your laundry into piles, I tend to wash a load as it forms into a good load. Enough to fill the drum loosely.

Never mix Whites or items with large white patches in with darks.

Roughly a good guide to sorting would be would be.

Whites like tea towels, bed linen if its white, towels white shirts if white etc.

Dark towels/Coloured towels alone - never mix them though, seperate loads for each.

Dark items like t shirts, trousers, etc - look at the label to confirm its cotton or polyester/acrylic etc.

Jeans and underwear if its dark or medium in colour, dark socks etc

Wooly Jumpers and knitted items.

Now.

Whites, wash on the 95*c programme. Its letter "C" I think on those. Whites.

Jeans and under wear Letter F 40 Non Fast cottons

Towels, Letter D Colourfast Cottons

Woolens Letter G Woolens

T shirts trousers etc Letter M if its of a synthetic fibre. F if its cottons.

That should get you by on most things.

Remember ignore the times the machine takes it really should be done properly. Just wondering what washing powder you use, that sometimes makes a difference too.


Post# 551406 , Reply# 3   10/23/2011 at 13:54 (4,540 days old) by aquarius1984 (Planet earth)        

aquarius1984's profile picture
If its any use further or your not sure drop me a line and il quite happily ring you :)

Post# 551408 , Reply# 4   10/23/2011 at 13:59 (4,540 days old) by aquarius1984 (Planet earth)        

aquarius1984's profile picture
Oh yes I forgot to say if you have pastel coloured garments of cotton they can be washed on 60 cottons letter D. Synthetics on L or M.

A rule of thumb is to keep similar colours together and if its white and has got a fair amount of colour on it then wash on a low temperature wash like F or M depending if its synthetic or cotton.



Post# 551415 , Reply# 5   10/23/2011 at 15:40 (4,540 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)        
My condolences to you.

ronhic's profile picture

We all have different ways of washing.......and mine are slightly different again.

 

I wash for 2 people, so there is undoubtedly more than you normally generate in a week, but here we go.

 

- Whites and business shirts at 40c depending on how dirty, you could go to 60c if they're cotton

- Coloureds - seperated into lights and darks if you have sufficient at 40c

- sheets at 60c

- towels at 60c

 

Don't be afraid to literally fill the machine either - not 'Pack it', but right to the top of the drum

 

If collars have a ring, I just dip quickly in water, rub a bar of soap across then rub the collar across itself 2 or 3 times and bung it in the machine. That's all it will need.

 

I know that people sometimes prefer to do 95c washes, but with the quality of Persil/Ariel etc, there is no need in my opinion. I've washed at those temperatures for over 20 years without an issue - and no smelly machine either.

 

Make sure you wipe the seal out at the end and leave the door ajar.

 


Post# 551440 , Reply# 6   10/23/2011 at 17:39 (4,540 days old) by paulc (Edinburgh, Scotland)        
redrose

paulc's profile picture
Truly sorry to hear about the death of your wife. You have my deepest sympathies.


Welcome to this wonderful site. You will find lot's of advise and help here as there are a few Hoover washing machine experts. I have limited experience of Hoover machines but have learned loads about them on here and by watching video's on youtube. Well done for repairing and managing to keep a lovely machine going.


Post# 551631 , Reply# 7   10/24/2011 at 16:46 (4,539 days old) by redrose ()        

Wow! Thank you very much for all your responses. It's nice to know that there are nice people around. Interesting point about the smelly machine - presumably that's caused by bacterial colonies which seem to thrive on washing powder (ironic).
The main drum bearing is on the way out so I'm going to strip it down and replace it and probably the drum-backplate seal at the same time. Whilst I'm at it I'll power wash all the pipes, soap drawers, cavities, door boot etc. Not the electronics of course :-)
There's a spare parts shop near me which does a good line in old stuff.
Thanks again. I hope I'll be able to help with some queries next time.

Mark.


Post# 551641 , Reply# 8   10/24/2011 at 18:07 (4,539 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)        
Mark

ronhic's profile picture

It's much more a North American phenomenon than a European or British one aggravated by dumbed down temperature settings, use of liquid detergent and lots of fabric conditioner.

 

If you're using a powdered detergent and don't go silly with the conditioner, then you'll never have a problem with that machine as far as odours and mould go - especially if  you wipe out the seal and leave the door ajar.


Post# 552411 , Reply# 9   10/28/2011 at 10:16 (4,535 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Hi Mark.

I own an instruction manual for the A3260 - will take some photos of its pages and will post them here for you to have refer to.

Wont be able to sort until early next week, but rest assured they will be posted.

Paul
p.s congrats on keeping an old machine going - a machine that can be tinkered with, rather than scrapped after 3 years.
If the fancy takes you and you want to know exactly how old your machine is then, next time you take the back off, make note of the serial number:

it will start with '3260' - for the model.
the next single digit is for the year, though you need to know the decade e.g a '3' in your case would be 1983 or a '4' would be 1984.
the next two digits are for the month eg '07' would be July or '11' for November.
the remaining digits are the individual machine identity.


Post# 552440 , Reply# 10   10/28/2011 at 13:54 (4,535 days old) by redrose ()        

Thanks Paul, that would be much appreciated.
Next weekend I'm going to take her to pieces to check the bearings and motor brushes. I'll take some pictures to show you (and the other guys) what state she's in since acquiring her in 1984 as a wedding present.
Mark.


Post# 553880 , Reply# 11   11/3/2011 at 15:41 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Hi Mark.
Apologies for the delay, but I wanted to photograph the manual in natural daylight and today was the first opportunity (was working from home today).

Here you go then...


Post# 553881 , Reply# 12   11/3/2011 at 15:42 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553904 , Reply# 26   11/3/2011 at 16:01 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553905 , Reply# 27   11/3/2011 at 16:02 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553907 , Reply# 28   11/3/2011 at 16:03 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553909 , Reply# 29   11/3/2011 at 16:04 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

your programme guide...

Post# 553910 , Reply# 30   11/3/2011 at 16:05 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

tother half...

Post# 553911 , Reply# 31   11/3/2011 at 16:05 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

both pages together...

Post# 553912 , Reply# 32   11/3/2011 at 16:06 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553914 , Reply# 33   11/3/2011 at 16:07 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553917 , Reply# 36   11/3/2011 at 16:08 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553919 , Reply# 37   11/3/2011 at 16:09 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553921 , Reply# 39   11/3/2011 at 16:10 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553923 , Reply# 41   11/3/2011 at 16:11 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553924 , Reply# 42   11/3/2011 at 16:14 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

The 1983 Brochure pages for the A3260...

Post# 553925 , Reply# 43   11/3/2011 at 16:14 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 553928 , Reply# 44   11/3/2011 at 16:16 (4,529 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Hope that the above pages prove useful to you Mark.

Be great if you could keep us updated with how the rebuild goes.
Happy tinkering!
Paul


Post# 553937 , Reply# 45   11/3/2011 at 17:36 (4,529 days old) by redrose ()        

That is absolutely fantastic, Paul. Thank you very much. I have saved all the images.

I am now ready to rebuild having bought new main bearings, motor brushes, tub gasket and metallic putty to repair the pitting on the tub backplate. I also got my dad to make some new castors on his lathe from nylon bar and some industry-standard o-rings. I'll post pictures over the weekend to explain.

I note that yours is/was even older (Jan 1984) than mine (Sep 1984)

Mark.


Post# 554131 , Reply# 46   11/4/2011 at 17:49 (4,528 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)        
Mark

ronhic's profile picture

I'd suggest that Programmes 'E' and 'F' are going to be the most used.

 

Given this machine does 5 high level rinses with an interim spin after 3 followed by 2 more and then the final spin....and most modern machines only do 3 rinses with interim spins inbetween each and all with low water levels.....

 

...consider engaging the half load button and see if you're happy with the results...especially if you are on a water meter. The machine will still do 5 rinses, but they will be at a lower level.

 

Also, ignore the detergent dosing in the instruction book and follow the guide on whichever box you have in the cupboard....the last thing you need is to put a cup of detergent in that should have had 100ml....

 

 

 

 


Post# 554223 , Reply# 47   11/5/2011 at 08:28 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Hi Mark.

Hope they will be of use to you.

I have also photographed the official servicing instructions, diagrams and charts for you, to add to your portfolio of A3260 information - see below.

Re the instruction manual - unfortunately I doubt that the A3260 it arrived inside of, probably purchased in the January sales in 1984, still survives.
I think I bought the manual off ebay earlier this year.

Here is to your machine having a still longer life.
Paul
p.s backplate pitting - my dad replaced the backplate on a my folks' Hoover 3236H Automatic De Luxe (of early 1970s vintage).
It was part of its final service, with the machine subjected to a total strip down, back around 1984. The machines innards were carefully laid out on the garage floor, with an empty cabinet left sitting in the kitchen.
Though the machine was replaced in 1986 (kitchen refurbishment), it wasn't scrapped, but was given to an Aunt of mine and saw service there before finally giving up around 1990.


Post# 554225 , Reply# 48   11/5/2011 at 08:28 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554230 , Reply# 49   11/5/2011 at 08:48 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        
WORDS OF WARNING

The achillies heel of Hoover Electrons were the powder drawer push and door release buttons.

Re the powder drawer push button - a bit of a pointless feature, with a tendency to not work very well anyway, especially when combined with escaped washing powder grains, grease and build up of dust.
Keep this mechanism clean, for it to work satisfactorily.


Re the door release button - over years, the plastic tends to get brittle and rough button pressing will quickly see cracks develop.
One day you will come to the machine, push the door release button, hear two cracking noises and see the door release button enter the fascia without opening the door.
The various bits of door release related plastics, which are either moulded parts of the fascia or parts of the actual mechanism, will have snapped and render the door release button inoperable.
The only way in, from that point onwards, is to use a end of a teaspoon handle and slide it between the door and cabinet and manually push the door latch inside the machine to open the door.

Basically, only ever apply enough force to the door release button to open the door and apply it gently.
Shoving the button in, till it hits the stops at the back of the fascia will see them crack one day.

Apart from these weaknesses, the Hoover Electron ranges are very solid machines...



Post# 554231 , Reply# 50   11/5/2011 at 08:49 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554233 , Reply# 52   11/5/2011 at 08:50 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Timer and programme sequencing...

Post# 554235 , Reply# 53   11/5/2011 at 08:51 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554236 , Reply# 54   11/5/2011 at 08:52 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Timer and programme sequencing for the '/1' version of Crouzet B966 timer...

Post# 554237 , Reply# 55   11/5/2011 at 08:53 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554238 , Reply# 56   11/5/2011 at 08:53 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554239 , Reply# 57   11/5/2011 at 08:56 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Exploded diagrams, with part numbers...

Post# 554240 , Reply# 58   11/5/2011 at 08:56 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554242 , Reply# 59   11/5/2011 at 08:57 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554243 , Reply# 60   11/5/2011 at 08:58 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

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Post# 554244 , Reply# 61   11/5/2011 at 09:02 (4,527 days old) by matchboxpaul (U.K)        

Good luck with the rebuild.

Paul


Post# 554489 , Reply# 62   11/6/2011 at 09:46 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
Rebuild Done !

Paul you are a Star. I have finally rebuilt the old girl and I have posted some pictures.
BTW You are bang on about the door opener. It went years ago and my wife used to consider having to use a knife to open the door as an endearing idiosyncrasy. The powder drawer is still OK though.


Post# 554490 , Reply# 63   11/6/2011 at 09:49 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
Serial Number

Using Paul's formula, she was built in August 1984. We got married in September 1984 so she was pretty new.

Post# 554492 , Reply# 64   11/6/2011 at 09:52 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
Backplate

As you can see the backplate has has a hard life. Lots of corrosion, mainly around the lower half of course. I smeared Araldite all around the mating face and then assembled with a new gasket, topped up with acrylic sealant just to be sure.

Post# 554495 , Reply# 65   11/6/2011 at 09:54 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
New bearing & Seal kit

I luck to have a great little shop near me which specializes in domestic appliance spares. The guy said he thought he'd never sell this kit 'cos it was so old :-).

Post# 554497 , Reply# 66   11/6/2011 at 09:58 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
Pressure Plenum

This was full of gunk and s**t. I cleaned it out using water and ... a handful of black pepper corns. Anything would do as long as it's small and roughly spherical. Shake it all about and agitate / loosen the crud. Worked a treat.

Post# 554498 , Reply# 67   11/6/2011 at 09:59 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
Drumless Tub

Not too bad, a bit of rubbing down and de-rusting done on the back mating face.

Post# 554499 , Reply# 68   11/6/2011 at 10:02 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
Full view of backplate

Even the heater element still works.

Post# 554502 , Reply# 69   11/6/2011 at 10:03 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
Rear wheels

The "tyres" have seen better days

Post# 554503 , Reply# 70   11/6/2011 at 10:05 (4,526 days old) by redrose ()        
New Wheels

My father has a lathe. He made 4 of these to my design using nylon bar and some off-the-shelf o-rings.


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