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Thread Number: 37176
Maytag A806 Question |
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Post# 552889 10/30/2011 at 21:59 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones  (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Post# 552893 , Reply# 1 10/30/2011 at 22:11 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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The parts manual identifies the switch as pn 205336. But all of the switches with that number have different wording on the push buttons like the one shown here. I'm assuming this is a newer replacement. Is it still possible to find either the switch or just the push buttons with the same wording as the one currently installed?
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Post# 552897 , Reply# 2 10/30/2011 at 22:24 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Post# 552899 , Reply# 3 10/30/2011 at 22:29 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Post# 552906 , Reply# 4 10/30/2011 at 22:52 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Finally, the parts manual frequently refers to 'original series or series 00' 'series 01' and 'series 02'. Based on the washers configuration in comparison to parts manual illustrations, I'm thinking it's an original series. That being said when it comes to ordering parts knowing what you have is usually rather important, so I'm hoping some of the more knowledgeable Maytag fans on the blog will clue me in if I'm wrong. The serial number for this washer is 766623SU. Hopefully that will help clear things up. I'll post some better photos later this week when I get it apart for cleaning. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Post# 552910 , Reply# 5 10/30/2011 at 23:03 (4,555 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
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Look on the actual model plate and see what series it is. Looking at the your pictures, I would guess it's in the 01 series. Does it have a tub light? The configuration of 4 water levels and the water temp switches to the right of the center dial tells me that it's a post Feb 1969 model. Also the fact that it still has the "timed" bleach dispenser on the right side means that it is before March of 1975.
If you post the actual serial number there are a number of folks here who can actually tell you the exact month and year that your machine was produced. | ||
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Post# 552912 , Reply# 6 10/30/2011 at 23:11 (4,555 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
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Post# 552913 , Reply# 7 10/30/2011 at 23:21 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Post# 552914 , Reply# 8 10/30/2011 at 23:27 (4,555 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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September, 1973. The pressure switch from the auction would be a functional equivalent to the one in the machine - same function, slightly different button labels.
Ben This post was last edited 10/30/2011 at 23:46 | ||
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Post# 552915 , Reply# 9 10/30/2011 at 23:27 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Post# 552916 , Reply# 10 10/30/2011 at 23:29 (4,555 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
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OK, my people are "on it" as I mentioned.
The lack of a series number means that it is most likely a late 00 series. That means that it had Permanent Press, 4 water levels, 4 speed selections, Tub light, & timed bleach dispenser. Initial guess would place it between 1970 and 1973. It is entirely possible that someone might have the button that you need to fix your water level selection switch. The best contact for that would be COMBO52. His first name is John and he has quite an inventory of such things. | ||
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Post# 552967 , Reply# 11 10/31/2011 at 01:08 (4,555 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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| Post# 552982 , Reply# 12 10/31/2011 at 04:02 (4,554 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
Maytag Info
Swestoyz is right- September 1973. You have a series "0" machine. You should have the front panel chrome strip, blue and grey plastic timer dial, probably a 4499-1 Mallory "scritching" timer, edge shaded front panel, and permanent press cycle on the dial.
If I were you I'd try to save the lid if it's not too far gone, if you want the color to match right. Many times when you switch lids the color will be a little different and look weird. You can pull off the lid, sand down the rust spots with emery paper or a small emery wheel on a Dremel tool, mask off the good areas of porcelain, put on a thin coat of JB Weld and rub it thin and smooth with a wet finger, let dry for at least 24 hours, color match the paint and have it put in a spray can, spray a couple of light coats to seal, and put it in a small hot room or chamber to cure. Be careful with the heated area. Don't burn your house down. If the ball hinge indentions are rusted, you'll have to be careful not to use too much JB Weld or paint in them or the balls may not snap the lid back on because of too much build up. That's what I'd try to do. Especially if the top of the lid looks ok. If you can find a donor lid that suits you, go for it. Other wise I'd try and restore it. FYI- Leaving the lid open after the laundry is done will help stop the rusting problem. Looks like you've got a big job ahead of you. Good luck. | ||
| Post# 553223 , Reply# 13 10/31/2011 at 21:23 (4,554 days old) by 54monroe () | ||
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The set of four buttons is still available. Part # 205339. | ||
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Post# 553248 , Reply# 14 10/31/2011 at 23:22 (4,554 days old) by D-Jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area)) |
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Let me start by saying thank you to swestoyz, Kenmore71, Beekeyknee and 54monroe for taking the time to respond and helping me determine just which machine I have here. The physical description of the washer provided by Kenmore71 and Beekeyknee are completely accurate right down to the chrome strip on the front of the cabinet. So now I know that I have a series 00 washer manufactured in September of 1973. The advice regarding the rusty lid is particularly useful, especially since I hadn't considered the possibility of mismatches in color.
Now I have a question about the buttons referenced by 54monroe. I see that several different online vendors list the set for sale but in each case they're a special order with no returns. Before I place an order that I'll be stuck with I'd like to find out if these buttons match the ones installed on the washer or do they match those on the replacement switch assembly shown above. Does anyone here know? Ordinarily this probably wouldn't matter but I'd like to maintain a totally original appearance if I can. | ||
| Post# 553262 , Reply# 15 11/1/2011 at 00:47 (4,554 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Buttons
I'm pretty sure the buttons are interchangeable with the switch and different panel styles, but since I don't have my series 0 yet I can't say with absolute certainty. Maybe someone with experience with all the series can give you a definitive answer.
Something I thought about concerning the lid on a 0 series washer. If you get the tub light going and you leave the lid open to dry the inside of the washer when not in use, the tub light is going to stay on all the time. I have made a wooden shim the exact size to fit between the lid and the cabinet top to watch the washing action when I want to. I made it about two or two and a half inches long and sanded it smooth to protect the porcelain. One could even give it a paraffin coating for extra protection. You could use this to keep the tub light off and the lid up when the washer is not in use. I assume the light would continue to burn with the lid up and the washer in the off position. Some food for thought. | ||
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Post# 553298 , Reply# 16 11/1/2011 at 06:55 (4,553 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN) |
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Post# 553302 , Reply# 17 11/1/2011 at 07:14 (4,553 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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A806 TUB LIGHT Yes Mark is absolutely correct those thrifty folks in Iowa would have never made a washer where you couldn't leave the lid open to dry the machine out and force you to leave the light on. WELL at least until the right wing management took over and started to make all types of bad decisions in regard to product design and they brought us the wonderful [ moldy ] Neptune's where you could not leave the door open without leaving the light on, even Westinghouse figured this one out on thier FL washers. This to me was just one of many signs that MT was losing thier way. And,
If WP doesn't start emphasizing and building higher quality appliances again and get thier service and parts prices under control they could lose thier market position also. The mighty do fall. | ||
| Post# 553404 , Reply# 18 11/1/2011 at 16:56 (4,553 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Tub Light And Dial Pulled Out | ||
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Post# 553434 , Reply# 19 11/1/2011 at 18:10 (4,553 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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