Thread Number: 37932
Question about the 1990 Whirlpool DD.
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Post# 563987   12/18/2011 at 20:51 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Hey guys, it seems the machine is going to have it's very first "cabinet off" repair and wanted to ask about something.

When I last used it about 2 days ago, I noticed some water on the floor in front of the washer (nothing major, just a little). Going by that and what RepairClinic says, I am suspecting that the drain pump has started leaking.

If that turns out to be the case and I replace it, should I also consider replacing the motor coupling? It still works fine, but it is going on 21 years now.





Post# 563989 , Reply# 1   12/18/2011 at 20:58 (4,505 days old) by CleanteamofNY ((Monroe, New York)        

cleanteamofny's profile picture

Do both since the cover is off and those parts can be found on ebay.
Compare price and then buy!
Simple, fast and easy to do those DD repairs!


Post# 563994 , Reply# 2   12/18/2011 at 21:15 (4,505 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
coupler

yeah,i'd replace the coupler too-its been improved a few times since 1990-also the
4rubber vibration bushings between the motor and the plate on the transmission can
sag a little over the years and put the coupler halves out of alignment,causing
the coupler to wear a little faster-you can turn each bushing 180*so the coupler
alignment is closer after the motor is reinstalled.


Post# 564077 , Reply# 3   12/19/2011 at 12:06 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        
PICS

Okay guys, here is what I found. Upon taking off the pump I noticed some rust on the motor shaft, this rust looks very recent and flaked right off, as well as rust coloring for where the shaft goes into the pump.

Pics below show this result. I am posting these because if I put water in the tub, I will not be able to drain it out since the lid switch is disconnected andwould like to hear what some have to say.




Post# 564078 , Reply# 4   12/19/2011 at 12:07 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Pump here





Post# 564079 , Reply# 5   12/19/2011 at 12:08 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Pump without flash.





Post# 564093 , Reply# 6   12/19/2011 at 14:13 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

also, if this turns out to be the case, does anyone have any experience with ReapirClinic, as to how their services are?

Post# 564095 , Reply# 7   12/19/2011 at 14:21 (4,505 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
most of these parts place are good, no real issues, most are also really helpful and informative......I hve ordered from many, and never had a problem

Post# 564101 , Reply# 8   12/19/2011 at 14:28 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

sounds good.

(if you see this) do those pics show show definite signs of a leaking pump?


Post# 564102 , Reply# 9   12/19/2011 at 14:34 (4,505 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
PartsTap.com and AppliancePartsPros.com may be cheaper prices than RepairClinic.  RepairClinic is often touted for their 365-day return policy, but the others also take returns.  SearsPartsDirect.com takes returns, but not necessarily on all items.


Post# 564105 , Reply# 10   12/19/2011 at 15:20 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

but, is it definitely the pump that's leaking? (going by those pics)

Post# 564114 , Reply# 11   12/19/2011 at 16:17 (4,505 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

You can run it with the cabinet off, if you're careful. You can run a jumper wire at the connector you unplugged for the lid switch.


Post# 564122 , Reply# 12   12/19/2011 at 16:59 (4,505 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Difficult to say for sure on the pump.  There's no obvious mineral deposits on it from a leak but that takes time to develop.  The shaft rust could be from ambient moisture.  Remount the pump, jumper the lid switch, get some water in and have a direct observation of it.  Or go ahead and replace the pump, they're not overly expensive.


Post# 564124 , Reply# 13   12/19/2011 at 17:00 (4,505 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))        
I would bet it's the pump.

whirlykenmore78's profile picture
Unless one of the hoses going to or from the pump are bad. If the drum seals were bad it would leak oily water from under the gearcase.
Nick


Post# 564130 , Reply# 14   12/19/2011 at 18:44 (4,505 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Okay, thanks guys!

I went ahead and ordered a new pump, and just in case, a new motor coupling, both should be here by Wednesday.


Oh and Nick, wasn't any oily water, the water I saw was right at the front of the cabinet and was all clear, also looked carefully at the pump hoses and didn't notice any signs of possible damage/leaks.


Post# 564182 , Reply# 15   12/19/2011 at 22:29 (4,504 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
LEAKING PUMP?

combo52's profile picture

The pump you have is very worn, you can tell by how far the white plastic drive is recessed into the pump housing, if it is not leaking it will soon so its good to replace while you have the washer apart. The light rust on the motor shaft is pretty normal.



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