Thread Number: 38024
HOH parts |
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Post# 565195 , Reply# 1   12/25/2011 at 14:31 (4,476 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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Have you done the following diagnostic tests to try and ascertain where the problem is? You want to do the tests for the BAR BAFFLE design. (See following posts)
From my experience (which is limited), 90% of the problems with these machines stem from either a short to ground in the baffle wiring system or a failed electronic control capacitor. The wiring problen is easy enough to trace out. The capacitor can be replaced with somthing similar for $5-$10 from an audio electronics supply house. It is possible that there is something more complicated wrong with the innards of the electronic dry control but that is the last thing to look at and is the least likely. |
Post# 565196 , Reply# 2   12/25/2011 at 14:39 (4,476 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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Here's the Electrical schematic for this dryer.
The original rating for the electrolytic capacitor was 8uF. If you replace the capacitor is should be with a polyestor or some other "film" type capacitor. Based on extensive experiments last summer, I would recommend somewhere between a 7 and 10 uF capacitor. Make sure it is rated for at least 100 volts DC. The ones I used were rated for 250 volts. This drawing is for a gas dyer. The electric one isn't significantly different. You just substitute the heating element for the gas valve and realize that the other end of the heating element connects to the other "hot" leg instead of neutral. All of the other stuff is identical. |
Post# 565204 , Reply# 4   12/25/2011 at 15:40 (4,476 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 565211 , Reply# 5   12/25/2011 at 17:36 (4,476 days old) by simplicity345 (Aliquippa,Pa)   |   | |
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I Have Some Tappan Stove Tefflon Griddle Any Questions You May Email Me @ mmichael11438@yahoo.com And I Will Get Back To You I Believe These Are The Kind That Goes Over The Burners |
Post# 565214 , Reply# 6   12/25/2011 at 18:00 (4,476 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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Post# 565281 , Reply# 7   12/26/2011 at 13:34 (4,475 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 565298 , Reply# 8   12/26/2011 at 16:11 (4,475 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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Post# 566271 , Reply# 9   1/1/2012 at 11:50 (4,469 days old) by vintagelover (Fairbanks, Alaska)   |   | |
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The bell never did chime, and as of last night, there is no heat. Am getting frustrated. |
Post# 776500 , Reply# 11   8/9/2014 at 22:19 (3,518 days old) by cornutt (Huntsville, AL USA)   |   | |
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If you use the right kind of capacitor (film or polyester), they are non-polarized so it doesn't matter which way you connect them. Don't get an electrolytic capacitor. |
Post# 776548 , Reply# 12   8/10/2014 at 10:05 (3,517 days old) by kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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As mentioned, there is no polarity to these types of capacitors. Either terminal can be connected to either spot on the electronic control.
However, I think you may have other issues. If the dryer doesn't shut off when the door is opened how do you turn it off at all? Do you unplug it? Does the drum light come on when you open the door? The grounding issue is irrelevant to this situation. Bad grounding causes the machine to shut off early as it doesn't allow the wet clothes to "short" the capacitor circuit to ground. Run-on is caused by a weak capacitor, failed circuitry in the actual electronic control, or a short in the wiring to the drum baffles. Before you pulled the capacitor, did you perform the standard "first" test on the dryness control? That being pulling yellow wire #12 off of the selector switch and seeing if the dryer shuts off in the prescribed times for an empty dryer? If it did shut off properly with wire 12 removed then you have a situation where somewhere between the switch and drum baffles something is shorting to ground. Does the heat remain on the entire time it's running? If at some point the heat cycles off but the dryer continues to tumble it's possible that the cool-down thermostat is shorted in the closed position, but I don't think that what you are describing. If you haven't yet, please take a moment to read this thread that I wrote a few years ago after I did a full restoration of a HOH dryer. CLICK HERE TO GO TO kenmore71's LINK This post was last edited 08/10/2014 at 10:27 |
Post# 783114 , Reply# 14   9/11/2014 at 20:55 (3,485 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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If it's still not shutting off, then the electronic control has failed OR the drum is somehow grounding itself.
I'm not sure how much more you can be helped. I posted the schematic in post #2 above. That IS the schematic. There is no other. It is the same as one that would have been glued to the back of the dryer.
There are 8 wires off of the electronic control. Two of them are yellow. Wire #12 is actually marked "12" about every 6 inches along the wire. And it's yellow. The "other" yellow wire off of the electronic control is clearly marked "20". To be honest, for testing purposes it really doesn't matter which wire you remove. Either will remove the slip ring and bar baffles from the circuit and allow the capacitor to charge.
If you are that frustrated, I recommend you go and buy and buy a new dryer and have this one made into a new KIA. We have been more than helpful here in responding to your requests. |
Post# 783178 , Reply# 15   9/12/2014 at 07:12 (3,484 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)   |   | |
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Am very grateful for the assistance received here. Can only work on it intermittently due to work, etc. Am sure this can be repaired. It dries great, I just have to use a timer and turn off the feed. Looks good too. Will work on it again soon. Thanks again. Les |
Post# 783179 , Reply# 16   9/12/2014 at 07:13 (3,484 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)   |   | |
This post has been removed by the member who posted it. |
Post# 1020136 , Reply# 17   1/4/2019 at 18:21 (1,909 days old) by naturalnick (Chillum Gardens, Maryland )   |   | |
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Hi all, I'm having a similar issue. Running tests Mark posted above with the Yellow 12 wire disconnected. Will follow up shortly. Thanks. Dominick AKA Natural Nick |
Post# 1020141 , Reply# 19   1/4/2019 at 20:47 (1,909 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Control and capacitor are OK, There is likley a slight short in the baffle circuit, it could be in a baffle, the wiring or the slip ring might be slightly grounded.
Rinsing clothing with epsom salts might not be a good idea in an electronic sensor dryer, never heard of anyone doing this, even when the clothing is dry it might be too conductive.
If you can't find a short try disconnecting one or two baffles, we often had to do this on older MT HOH dryers to get them to shut off.
I see your dryer had a new selector switch, what else has been done to it over the years and about how many loads a week was this dryer used for over its life.
John L. |
Post# 1020148 , Reply# 21   1/4/2019 at 22:34 (1,909 days old) by naturalnick (Chillum Gardens, Maryland )   |   | |
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I notice that if I physically move the solenoid bar to the right (as in photo) the dryer goes into cool down mode and shuts off. As for other maintenance, I recall my dad changed the spade connector at the ballast, the blue one. He was checking it out after my mom said that the console light wasn't working. |
Post# 1020208 , Reply# 22   1/5/2019 at 13:50 (1,908 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Dominick, I think you can do this, but you're jumping all over instead of following the advice of the diagnostic procedures, and you're ignoring the evidence that is telling you what is wrong and how to isolate it.
As John notes, you've already proven that the capacitor is functioning - you verified this yourself. So why keep looking for a replacement, or pull yours for additional tests? The chime is an important diagnostic aid. Don't be so quick to dismiss the chime as having "nothing to do with dryer operation"... The solenoid which rings the chime is also the solenoid that tugs the control switch to the off position, so a fault there (electrical, mechanical binding, misalignment, out of adjustment) could easily cause other problems. Please read and understand what others are saying to help you. When John says "There is likley a slight short in the baffle circuit, it could be in a baffle, the wiring or the slip ring might be slightly grounded.", he means just that. When you say "Yeah the baffle might be the problem" and dive into a dozen other things, you're focusing on a part instead of a condition, and missing the point entirely on what the next step would be to fix it. |
Post# 1020211 , Reply# 23   1/5/2019 at 13:54 (1,908 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1020260 , Reply# 25   1/5/2019 at 20:33 (1,908 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Yep, the paperclip looking part.
Here's a good picture I found, posted by Mark in this thread: "DE 806 won't shutoff" (www.automaticwasher.org/c...) You can see that when the clip is oriented correctly, the pull on the switch will be much more horizontal, and it won't interfere with the switch anymore. I almost wonder if someone purposely clipped the end of your switch off, so that the linkage would fit the wrong way?
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Post# 1020307 , Reply# 27   1/6/2019 at 07:53 (1,907 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1020348 , Reply# 28   1/6/2019 at 15:30 (1,907 days old) by Naturalnick (Chillum Gardens, Maryland )   |   | |
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Thanks. What is the best way to reposition the ring without damaging the felt or the edge of the ring? I notice that I can rotate the ring on the felt. Maybe gently use the flat side of a screwdriver to move it away from the drum? Thx. |
Post# 1020546 , Reply# 30   1/8/2019 at 11:17 (1,905 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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Post# 1020548 , Reply# 31   1/8/2019 at 11:33 (1,905 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1020549 , Reply# 32   1/8/2019 at 11:33 (1,905 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1020665 , Reply# 35   1/9/2019 at 11:40 (1,904 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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It's a bit hard to see in the diagram, but the striker is part 54157 / 52690. It would be a piece of metal (I think just a basic screw?) on the end of either a short piece of flexible wire or plastic.
If you have the space and electrical capacity, you should hook both dryers up! One washer with two dryers is a very favorable combination due to the imbalance of time it takes to wash and dry. |
Post# 1020761 , Reply# 36   1/10/2019 at 19:41 (1,903 days old) by naturalnick (Chillum Gardens, Maryland )   |   | |
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Dave, Previously, I couldn't understand how the chime mechanism operated. Enlarging the photo once again and from your description, I can only quote Ernest Hemingway. Thank you! I hope you can see the link. CLICK HERE TO GO TO naturalnick's LINK |
Post# 1020774 , Reply# 37   1/10/2019 at 22:15 (1,903 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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