Usually my 1-18 works well, 1975 model, but there is a growing problem. When it goes into spin-drain, sometimes it is silent(what a shock!) for about 5 seconds then the motor overheat switch kicks in, and barely a drop of water from the hose.  Usually, when all is working, it is loud from the instant the spin-drain starts, and there's immediate strong water from the hose. When it is silent and no water, I know it's gonna heat-overload-stop. 2 minutes or so later, it cools down and kicks in again and either silently goes on overload in about 5 seconds, or loudly pumps water from the instant it starts and all is well. I've watched underneath and the the belt turns easily in both directions, the pump spindle/rollers spin in both directions, no hose kink or blockage. Both the silent start-up and the rapid heat overload switch have me baffled. It knows something is wrong in 5 seconds or less? When this happened once a month ago, I chocked it up to a fluke at age 37. Now it's about every other load, either 1st spin or second, sometimes both. Always either silent spin with no pump and dead in 5 seconds, or loud and tons of water immediately and all is well.

I'm new to 1-18's, it's a great machine and deserves the repairs, I don't know what to look for first. All the various rollers and spindles seem to turn at all times and are bone dry with minor rust, of course spinning in 2 diff directions depending on cycle. The recirculating pump works well, my "dry agitate" suds saving sucks back water perfectly, spin-drain works loudly and well 3/4 of the time. I'm guessing something inside the pump binds occassionally, and it's such a damn good bind that only a few drops of water move and in 5 seconds the motor overloads? DO I get inside the pump first? Any seals/O-rings needed before I attempt? All directions say to never oil, but does a drop on the base of the pump spindle help this old beast, dropping down into the pump bearing?

I've seen this before, and repaired a fellow members machine with this same condition.  In my opinion the clutch needs to be removed, disasembled, cleaned and then reassembled.  That took care of the problem on the particular machine that I worked on.

Its the clutch binding instead of slipping at the start of spin.

the spin starts just as slow as normal working loud pumping spins starts, but only 5 quiet seconds later with no pumping it kills the motor. Also, when I first got the machine and it had almost no brake at all, I followed directions and held the tub in place for about 45 seconds of spin to "burnish" either the clutch or brake??? Then it braked for maybe one or two loads of clothes, always goes back to slow coasting stop, very slow, no brake. Is the clutch and brake one related inter-working item(in this case non-working?) ? How would it behave with a binding clutch? I guess I need to learn about 1-18 clutches, it'll be a good project, I really love this machine, cool as hell and great washes, fantastic rinses, better than average extraction. Worth it for sure, and it took over a year of searching to find it.

I will keep you posted and get started soon, thanks for the advice, I'd have taken apart the pump instead.

Of course all of this happens as the new Norge is all apart for painting, all over the basement. I may have to finish the Norge just to get working space near the 1-18.

[ how would the machine behave with a binding clutch? ] Exactly as you have described.

when you get ready to start on it (it will take you about an hour or so) let us know, take some pictures.  We're here to help you...  I had the assistance of another person when I did the task but it certainly can be done alone.  You will need some brake parts cleaner, sandpaper, rags, and a stiff bristled brush -- I used a small sized brass one.  One the machine I repaired someone had oiled the sperical bearing in the agitate shaft, it slung oil up into the clutch while agitating and then when it went into spin it slipped and burned the oil into a goo like substance over time.

It sounds like that ol' Frigidaire has never had it so good!

Bill--good to hear from you again. Today I will be buying some brake cleaner/mineral spirits and a brush, I think this project will be a Sunday chore. Over all, this machine is great, thanks again, very well worth the clutch work. I'll keep you posted and I'll ask questions, it's pretty detailed work to re-do--

I have printed out all your attachments, they will be handy and greasy in a day or two---

Thanks again--

Mark

Bill---That little Nissan has carried home many machines, no problem. Only 2 trips were as long as 4 hours one-way, fortunately.

See pics, clutch/brake disassembled. There was not a drop of grease or oil, and pretty darn little dust, it was only in use about 3 loads weekly for 6 months since last clutch work. Nothing looks broken or damaged, I cleaned all in mineral spirits and it's all drying now.

Am I just re-doing recent clutch maintenance I'll need to re-do in another six months? Instead of de-glazing the 3 pads, should I buy new? Are they available? Should I reverse them, "new" sides to contact? Will this minor amount of dust require cleaning routinely? This is pretty much my most fun machine, but something tells me I shouldn't have to do this chore all that routinely. Advice?

The spring holder was set on the second to highest tension, should I reassemble one notch higher or lower?

Check out all the pics. I have not yet "burnt off" the glazing, waiting on that until I hear more advice.

And the brakes almost never worked except one or two spins immediately after "burnishing" thm by holding the tub in place during 45 seconds of spin before letting go and letting it get up to speed. But the clutch worked until about a month ago, then got worse til almost every spin stopped. I love the machine and I like repair projects, just hoping to figure how to get it to last a few years in- between clutch work.

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and I checked and wiped the 4 screw brake surface on the bottom of the cast tub base assembly, clean and bone dry, shiny, minor dust towards the interior, not on the mating surface. I'll happily just leave it on if that's ok.

About the bleach dispenser springs, mine is also missing and I'd like to know how it holds to the dispenser? I can't figure that on mine! I think the former owner of my washer simply kept using it with a bouncing dispenser and it may have damaged the area where the spring should be...

If anyone has a 1-18 bleach dispenser with a spring for sale, please contact me!

Edit, I took a picture and it's not as damaged as I thought it was! So maybe a spring would still hold there?

is dirty!  Everything I see there in those photos needs a thorough cleaning.  While you have this apart let's be sure that you do it right because it is not a chore that needs frequent attention by any means.  I really don't think you needs new pads, and to turn them over will only increase the applied tension.  Clean the pads by giving them a light rub over some fine sandpaper, a quick soak in the mineral spirits and let them air dry while you clean the rest of it.  Be sure you get all of that grime off of those tension washers, and the like of the parts too.  Clean is the name of this game.  When you reassemble put the tensioner on the middle position which is the stock position.  This should resolve your issues, otherwise, disasemble again and drop it down to the next lowest position, further decreasing the tension.  I do think when you get it clean it should be fine in the stock position.

Bill--many thanks, I'll get to it soon and post all results-------Once we solve this problem, that washer will return to being my favorite--

Mark

Last night I combined everyone's advice, thank you all. It takes quite a wing-span to ratchet the nut below the tub at the same time you're holding the agitator post from the top of the machine, a couple arm bruises are the result. Re-cleaned everything, barely a new speck of dirt. All brake disks and clutch disks re-sanded, installed in exact manner as removed, not turned over. TINY lithium grease on the ramped cams, minor emery cloth on shaft and inside the bearing, followed by one drop of turbine oil on each. Spring tension set at center markings. It's back on the 1-18, but I need another evening for reassembly of other parts before testing, I'll keep you posted. I currently have the cabinet removed, but have now figured out how to remove the clutch and do all such work from the front only, learning curve seems to work on me. Once you get the hang of it, it's not a bad job to clean and rebuild, but the proof will be in the spin---

Bill fltcoils-----JoeLippard-------John Combo--THANK YOU GUYS! fully reassembled, first load of clothes was medium size batch of towels, she kicked right into spin with no problem, all seems well. Braking is a bit better than before (Which was nonexistent.) I think brakes have to do with how far up the shaft I tighten that 1-3/16 nut, pushing the entire assembly against the brake plate, whereas clutch/spin has to do with the super-clean interior of the entire assembly.

Read just above for the minor lube I did, and medium tension on the spring, one load done and all looks well.

I have one WP/KM, one Maytag, one Filter-flo, one Norge, and this one 1-18. Its entire operation and excellence in washing makes it the only brand so far where I'd make space for a second washer, just fun and loud and unique operation.

THANK YOU

Mark

Mark congratulations on another successful rebuild, there is just no stopping good old Midwest common sense and determination.

The Frigidaire despite a few minor short comings is one of the machines that I will always keep in my daily laundry line up. You will enjoy this washer more and more as you continue to use it.

John--you may be right! I had that clutch/brake assembly off the machine 3 times in a week, the second time it wasn't budging even with a buddy working a wrench in the tub while I was below with a ratchet on that inch and 3/16 damn nut. It got late and he headed home--apparently his one washer is more important than my 9th??

SO--how to do it alone? I put that ratchet and socket on the nut beneath the spin cams, wedged a 2x4 underneath it on top of the snubber pan, then hammered in a small wedge of wood between the 2x4 and the ratchet head. It held VERY tightly and one small(ish) bang with a hammer on the wrench in the tub got me loosened up!

I shudda took a picture!

Bill---It is NOW on with finger tension, this last time when everything works(except the brake.) Previously, I had tightened it to hopefully get more braking, that's when it jammed and I did the creative racheting.

I have only run 2 loads but so far perfect spins and no brake. It's not a new machine, I can live with that and enjoy.

Thanks for your help--

Mark

Indeed brake cleaner is the thing to use and I would probably NOT use any lubricants at all in the clutch or this machines mechanism.