Maytag A106 Hums but wont spin or agitate


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Thread Number: 38835
Maytag A106 Hums but wont spin or agitate

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Post# 576102 2/15/2012 at 13:29 (4,446 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes A few years ago my Godmother gave me her old matching Maytag's that she bought new and took very good care of them...anyways I recently replaced the belts, motor and cleaned it inside and out. The timer will run all the way through the cycles, and I did manage to get the tub to spin a little, once after I replaced the motor with a known good working unit oh and the trans is good, no signs of failure at all. no stuck undergarments around the tub....I'm just so confused on this, there is NO manuals to be had! Also...I'm looking for a new dial assembly the teeth on mine are very worn out. and once I manage to fix these is there any mods I could do to this washer/dryer set? I'm in love with those old 60's Maytag's with the light up panel and tubs. When I set it for a small load it does this... Fill to set level timer ticks on for a few min... sticks fingers in ears and hums loudly to ignore my cry's to AGITATE!... Timer ticks on some more... Hums loudly some more when it comes time to rinse tick tick tick...tub still full it did nothing... tick tick tick Hums loudly when it comes time for the final drain and rinse... the end.

Post# 576105 , Reply# 1 2/15/2012 at 13:54 (4,446 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)
Checkrate/Likes Did you try taking the front off and nudging the motor forward with your foot to see if maybe the motor carriage is stuck in the back position so that there is too much tension on the belts? Did you try pulling the motor back since maybe it is stuck so far forward that the belts are not being turned by the pulley? Did you try operating it without the belts to see if the motor is actually running? Was there a burning smell because if the motor is turning and the belts are not, there might be belts burning around the motor pulley. The lube in the motor carriage can dry up or the springs that hold it at the proper tension can die, all of which can make the washer not work.

Post# 576175 , Reply# 2 2/15/2012 at 16:56 (4,446 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes Maybe a broken wire, that controls the start windings in the motor, or a stuck centrifugal switch.

Post# 576189 , Reply# 3 2/15/2012 at 18:14 (4,446 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes I really doubt its stuck in the carriage thing, while the motor was out, I scrubbed it and the little wheels until they looked brandy new, then greased the wheels and the carriage up wherever it gets any friction and under where it bolts up just to chassis to keep my nice parts looking nice with high temp Valvoline bearing grease...Its what I had at the time...The red stuff lol. I'll try the belts and see if it runs without them, if that is the case then what? I'll try to find my camera to get some pics if it will help...Besides I'm kinda proud of our lil machines. oh And, is there anybody I could talk to about either modding my timer to have more cycles so I can use a more readily available dial set or a replacement dial set? Mine is horribly worn out, Its the "white" one with only Permanent Press and regular that says Delicates and start's at ten.

Post# 576191 , Reply# 4 2/15/2012 at 18:20 (4,446 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)
Checkrate/Likes for more cycles and options....I would change out the whole control panel for an update......just keep an eye out for your capacity for water levels, and you may need to change the motor to a 2 speed......but it can be done..... you could even change it to an 806 with lit panels.....

Post# 576199 , Reply# 5 2/15/2012 at 18:55 (4,446 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes ....Your making me drool!....I was even going to use some sound insulation like generic dynomat inside the panels to make it seem like a more expensive quieter machine;) My Wife loved that idea she said they get rather loud with a large load. Just wondering but if somebody was to happen cross a parts donor about how much $ would be normal to spend on the upgrade? Just my insulation idea would run a lil over 100 bucks. Is that lit panel on the A806 all one piece? I tried looking for more pictures but Google just isn't very helpful these days, If its just a frame with frosted glass I could probably duplicate the look slightly with plexiglass and cold cathode tube lighting Like this, see the link to a picture of the light I would use. And how about the tub light, bleach dispenser, and possible corkscrew agitator that is short enough to use with the filter and fabric softener dispenser? I think by the time I can call these "done" I'd never wanna get rid of em even more! CLICK HERE TO GO TO interceptor1985's LINK

Post# 576202 , Reply# 6 2/15/2012 at 19:06 (4,446 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)
Checkrate/Likes insulation can be as cheap and easy as a water heater blanket......insulation for keeping the heated water hot, and the noise to a minimum.....around 20.00 the corkscrew agitator unfortunately only fits the tall tub if you gonna use the dispenser..... maybe you wanna go with the 50hz pulley/belt setup.....add more kick to the wash, and higher spin speed....... tub light can be added, but you will have to change out the top outter tub, or cut the slot and glue in a piece of plexiglass...... for best fit and options......your better off finding a broken 806, and change things over......I think theres a shop around here that has one, and he wants to part it out......I'll get back to you on that one.....

Post# 576207 , Reply# 7 2/15/2012 at 19:30 (4,446 days old) by queeny77 (BERWYN, ILLINOIS)
Checkrate/Likes sounds like a motor problem,before the thermal switch trips you should try to give the motor a spin by hand to see if it will go with the belts off.

Post# 576213 , Reply# 8 2/15/2012 at 20:19 (4,446 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes Ok, I took the belts off, and gave the motor a light bump with my boot and it started running, Its the same pulley and belts as before, although the motor is made out of cast aluminum instead of stamped steel, would that "Capacitor kit" be useful in my situation to help kick start that motor? if so then once I get it how would I go about installing it since there isn't any directions or tutorials I have seen on any kit.

Post# 576228 , Reply# 9 2/15/2012 at 21:27 (4,446 days old) by lebron (Minnesota)
Checkrate/Likes *Hi Jay* Please check the email that you have listed in your profile ^_^ thanks !

Post# 576243 , Reply# 10 2/15/2012 at 22:45 (4,446 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes Thank you for the Email! And I managed to get it to run a small cycle of just water, each time the motor need a bump to start, is that black box on top of the motor a relay? If so perhaps both relays are bad? I got the motor used for a very good price ($40 bucks and its much newer then my old one and seems to be stronger too. www.rcappliancepartsimages.com/db... If this part is bad could it have the same symptoms as I'm having? Talk about a learning curve here, three days ago it was just a chunk of steel in the laundry room, and now its kinda doing something again:) I hope I don't need to buy a new switch, I'd much rather spend the money on upgrades.

Post# 576248 , Reply# 11 2/15/2012 at 23:43 (4,446 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)
Checkrate/Likes *motor* the black box on top of the motor is the centrifugal switch-it is actuated by a centrifugal flyweight mechanism on the motor's rotor so that the motors start winding is switched out of circuit when the motor starts and gets to speed.On a maytag or other washer that switches motor direction to go from agitate to spin, the motor's start winding circuit involves the timer so there are lots of possibilitys for for an incomplete start circuit...Problem could be with the motor too-bad or stuck centrifugal mechanism or switch,open start winding(rare), incorrect wiring. Good luck on finding the problem :)

Post# 576257 , Reply# 12 2/16/2012 at 01:13 (4,446 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes I'm uploading some pics now into my profile. I was just comparing switches to see if that could be part of the problem, I got the motor used, but the seller had good feedback, and insisted the motor worked when pulled in the description, the motor is a bit newer and has an extra red wire leading to its switch, he cut the harness off and I simply just matched the wire colors to what was already on there. (Yes I know buying used or even new online is a 50-50 chance)

Post# 576283 , Reply# 13 2/16/2012 at 07:00 (4,445 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)
Checkrate/Likes *Non Starting MT Washer Motor* Hi Jay there are several possibility's as to why the motor is not starting reliability, 1 be sure you got a anther 1speed motor not a 2sp motor they wire up differently and do not always interchange well on MT washers, the data label will list the motor sp and it should only say 1725 not 1725/1140. 2 you can add a motor start capactor to any MT washer motor these can help. 3 But most likely you just need another motor, one SP MT washer motors are still plentiful and cheap, I often don't even bother to save them from all the MT stack L-1000s that we scrap each month and these all have the 1sp motors in them.

Post# 576297 , Reply# 14 2/16/2012 at 08:26 (4,445 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes The advert for the used motor I got said "Maytag Automatic Washer Motor USED 12002352 112002351" Here is a link to the eBay Page, it actually came extremely well packed It had on it the same number of wires in the same color code so I just pulled those off and fitted the same colored wires from my washer to it. Although the motor switch has an extra red wire leading to it from the motor whats that about? If it does turn out to be a two speed motor then what motor will I need to get when I try the A806 upgrade? Are those still a single speed? If I do not have the single speed motor and still need to get one even with the A806 upgrade I will be installing the capacitor, this is an old house with not very good electrical. Item number: 250979072021 CLICK HERE TO GO TO interceptor1985's LINK on eBay

Post# 576299 , Reply# 15 2/16/2012 at 08:49 (4,445 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)
Checkrate/Likes 1 Jay - I am not as proficient with Maytags as I am Kenmores, but I've bought a number of motors on eBay for my machines and just to have for stock when the price is right. There are good deals there, and some not good deals as well. I searched 'Maytag washer motor' and got a slew of options with tremendous variety. There were Neptune motors mixed in with motors for the Norge built machines, motors for machines of the same generation as yours, and even some Whirlpool built direct drive design motors. My best suggestion is to find out what the current replacement motor part number is for your model, according to Maytag. Take that number, exactly, and search only that on ebay. See what you get. If MT motors are stocked differently in 1-speed and 2-speed versions, and you have a one-speed machine, the replacement part number if searched correctly should yield only single speed options. Then I believe I would consider the motor you have as potentially bad. If all it takes is a nudge to start it, something is wrong with your installation or the motor itself. Since you only purchased this on 2/3/12, I would contact the seller if you think the motor is faulty and work on getting your money back. It should not be difficult if the motor is non-functional. Then start over with a motor that you know is proper for your machine and see what you get. Gordon

Post# 576302 , Reply# 16 2/16/2012 at 10:12 (4,445 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)
Checkrate/Likes *red wire* i would check out where the extra red wire is meant to go-washer the replacement motor came from may have used a seperately located start capacitor or something... sounds like the original motor was GE and the replacement emerson.

Post# 576454 , Reply# 17 2/16/2012 at 20:38 (4,445 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes You might be able to see the red wires in my photo album, I took pics of both motors..Both of them are stamped "Maytag" I popped the top last night and inspected it a lot closer and made a list of possible things that might be bad. Timer, it runs though the cycles but instead of motor coming on it hums till I bump the motor...might be ok. Tub gaskets, I doubt they have been changed in 30 years, I run my fingers through the crack between the tubs and do not feel smooth rubber, I feel old dried out cracked rubber. Time to change before it leaks! Motor, ok the new one I bought I got used off eBay, it looks brand new and after it gets going it feels very strong. Part# 2-1664-4 Model# S59PXCLW-1900 RPM 1725 SINGLE SPEED. It does not have a start capacitor, This house is rather old and the electrical...Well lets just say that it sucks. I want to install the capacitor kit in case it really does just need that extra bump of power to get going. Looking back on it this washer started to have issues with us after we moved into this old house. How to install the kit? And lastly in the very near future I'd like to do the A806 facelift/upgrade Do those take the same motor? I think most of what I have like the tub and trans can be used to make a "mid sized A806" would be nice to have the extra capacity tub but I don't.

Post# 576461 , Reply# 18 2/16/2012 at 22:01 (4,445 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes Ok seems there is a difference in motors available new for this model. ---------------------------------------- Motor Item #1066792 (OEM Part) $165.85 Washer motor, 1 speed, 230 volt 50/60HZ Manufacturer Number 12002352 ---------------------------------------- Then there is available a.... ---------------------------------------- Drive Motor Item #1063646 (OEM Part) $147.90 Washing machine drive motor, one speed (120 volt) Manufacturer Number 12002351 --------------------------------------- Then my Ebay motor OEM Maytag motor specs are 1/3 HP 115V 60hz 6.9AMP 1725 RPM --------------------------------------- old seized original motor 1/3HP 115V 6.4 AMP 60hz 1725RPM -------------------------------------- I'm kinda confused at the moment as to which one is better... When I'm looking at the Washer I'm thinking what the heck? there isn't much to this thing, it all looks so easy compared to building a car...which I do during the summer.

Post# 577153 , Reply# 19 2/20/2012 at 00:07 (4,442 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes Alrighty so I tore her apart again, I cleaned out the motor with some electrical parts cleaner, it runs by itself now....But it agitates pretty slow...Like I said before there is no signs of tranny problems, no leaking or anything, doesn't make strange sounds.

Post# 577157 , Reply# 20 2/20/2012 at 00:18 (4,442 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes Most of the stuff I found while googling for the answers, is old lube in the trans seems to be the most popular answer. Ok, is there a way to clean the gunky old stuff out and replace? and with which lube? I really like the washer its been with my family for all these years and I am not about to give up on it. ;)

Post# 577161 , Reply# 21 2/20/2012 at 01:24 (4,442 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes on a hunch, I took a hair dryer to the trans to heat up the oil inside, I was correct as long as the oil is warm she runs like new....at least I know exactly what is wrong with it now, she needs new oil. anybody have a procedure list on how to go about doing that? I never gone so far as removed the tub before.

Post# 577275 , Reply# 22 2/20/2012 at 15:52 (4,441 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes It's a major ordeal to change the transmission oil. There is a thread on here somewhere detailing how to remove the transmission.

Post# 577363 , Reply# 23 2/20/2012 at 23:43 (4,441 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes I was watching a video on YouTube about it, the guy made it look so easy! But Wife and I are pretty sure he has 20+ years experience over my one month of basic maintenance. Before this the most I have done was I replaced the heater and belts in the dryer and washer. I was just wondering , is there a list of parts interchange between the Maytag models out there? I would really like to modify the one I have beyond the basic stuff. Us car guys have a saying, lol "Stock is a dirty word" That And I kinda like learning about the old stuff, its pretty fun actually!

Post# 577366 , Reply# 24 2/21/2012 at 00:10 (4,441 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes *Maytag rebuild thread* Take a look at this thread which details the complete rebuild on a Maytag. CLICK HERE TO GO TO pdub's LINK

Post# 577368 , Reply# 25 2/21/2012 at 00:21 (4,441 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))
Checkrate/Likes It's characteristic of Maytags to agitate slowly until the trans oil reaches nominal temperature.

Post# 577387 , Reply# 26 2/21/2012 at 03:55 (4,440 days old) by alr2903 (TN)
Checkrate/Likes Your link to the ebay ad, under item specifics reads, for dryer, maybe thats explains the red wire? Then again if it reversed with the small load, for spin it's not a dryer motor. alr This post was last edited 02/21/2012 at 04:12

Post# 577399 , Reply# 27 2/21/2012 at 07:18 (4,440 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes That's weird..lol if its really a dryer motor then I must have found some sort of interchange because after I cleaned out the motor its been working great,though it seems it never reaches temp with cold water, I dunno, perhaps it just doesn't like winter? And thank you for the link!!!! Nothing worse then a stubborn guy with no instructions that is bound and determined to "fixit" himself instead of paying to hang out with the Maytag man.

Post# 577490 , Reply# 28 2/21/2012 at 17:07 (4,440 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes I don't think you could get a dryer motor to fit, but maybe?

Post# 577966 , Reply# 29 2/24/2012 at 15:05 (4,437 days old) by interceptor1985 ()
Checkrate/Likes I doubt its a dryer motor, it had the "hat" on it, lol. I found another use for those insulation strips you put around doors and drafty windows...I had a buzzing rattle that just would not go away in my dryer so I did my yearly cleaning inside the dryer and out, I put the strips along each edge where it bolts together it made for a good tight fit, feels a bit more solid now. I also found 79c in the lint trap area!;) I also pulled the control panel off and scrubbed down the plastic and put some of those insulation strips under the mounts. doesn't rattle around that much anymore, I still have a long way to go before its closer to a new machines sound levels...

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