This is just a generic replacement valve these are still available for around $20.00 or less.

Would this fit on the 65-69 Frigidaires?  I need to pick up a new one, the cold is out on my rapidry...

Unless it is absolutely necessary I wouldn't use NOS water valves.  In most washers you can (and should) replace water valves with brand new valves.  The only thing you have to be careful of is in timed fill machines the water flow into the tub will be greater than the original valve.  You can remedy this by stopping at the hardware store and picking up an inline water shut off valve like I've pictured below except you will need a smaller model than pictured.  Connect the valve (you will need to buy hose barb attachments and clamps as well) on the fill flume hose and you can adjust the flow so the water level comes just to the top of the tub before agitation begins.

I often find it best to rebuild an old inlet valve unless a new OEM replacement is available. Almost any inlet valve on a machine built after 1956 can usually easily be rebuilt by replacing the rubber valve seats and cleaning the inlet screens, [ NEVER remove the screens to clean them, just clean them in place by gently scrapping loose any particles and rinse with water ]. By rebuilding the original valve you eliminate most water flow rate problems and any problems with fit.

what are you talking about M-S????

I soak them in CLR and have FLOWING water again into the valve!!!

jet

The risk of removing them is that if they get even a TINY bit bent they will allow particles to pass around them and clog the bled hole in the valve diaphragm and cause the valve to not shut off and cause a flood. The inlet screens do not have to be perfectly clean to function well, in fact like many filters they work better if partially blocked as they are more likely to catch even smaller particles. The typical inlet screen can easily pass more than 30 gallons of water per minute, but the valve only fills at a rate of 2-10 gallons per minute, so even if the screen is 3/4 blocked it will have no effect on its operation.

I have seen hundreds of washers in my time where the inlet valve was not shutting off and the machine had flooded. And when I go to replace the valve I either see the screen bent, in backwards, or even missing. If you really want to rebuild a faulty valve or if you have one with low flow problems dissemble it and replace the rubber valve diaphragms. When the valve is dissembled it is a good Idea to soak all the parts [ except the electrical parts ] in something like CLR, but I would leave the screens in place while doing this. The only time I remove the screens is if they are already damaged or if they are old brass ones and have corroded holes in them and then I replace them with SS screens.