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Thread Number: 38937
1950s GE Mobile Maid |
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Post# 577505 , Reply# 1 2/21/2012 at 18:09 (4,445 days old) by Tomturbomatic  (Beltsville, MD) |
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I guess you are going to have to turn her over and see where the water is coming from. If you are really lucky, it will be from the drain hose. Otherwise it could be the pump like if it was left to freeze once or maybe the seal. Best of luck. | ||
| Post# 577512 , Reply# 2 2/21/2012 at 18:54 (4,445 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL) | ||
 I have a 1958 MobileMaid dishwasher like yours, plus an earlier GE portable dishwasher (pictured). Assuming that the drain sump is in tact (kind of a large black rubber boot attached to the bottom of the tank and to the water pump - DO NOT OVERLY SQUEEZE THIS), the next area of concern is the water pump itself. Larry at Modern Parts House in Parma, Ohio (Ph: 216-661-6966) may have the internal seal and new pump impeller for the pump. My quick disconnect supply hose burst on me when I started testing my machine, so you should be cautious when applying full house water pressure. If you wish, you can communicate directly with me. Click on my "dishwashercrazy" link to my profile to find my email address. Good luck. Mike 
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Post# 577520 , Reply# 3 2/21/2012 at 19:21 (4,445 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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The lack of any sounds, hums or other noises when the machine is plugged in could be due to a bad connection somewhere or a bad power cord.
You should take off the front panel and check the connections to the timer, relay, motor, etc. Ironically when a machine does nothing at all, it usually turns out to be a minor problem! | ||
| Post# 577537 , Reply# 5 2/21/2012 at 20:41 (4,445 days old) by Kelpy () | ||
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Motor/pump. Can i throw some POR15 or something on the rust? 
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| Post# 577542 , Reply# 6 2/21/2012 at 21:12 (4,445 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod) | ||
Oh My... | ||
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Post# 577544 , Reply# 7 2/21/2012 at 21:23 (4,445 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Front panel screws
There are just the two phillips screws to hold the front panel but be careful - you don't want to break the timer dial (often called a 'half-moon' because of the way it peeks out of the cover!).
I've worked on a machine like this - it had a power problem that turned out to be a bad plug! I also had leakage issues and I was able to resolve them by removing the pump and applying some silicone sealant around the pump opening. Mike (dishwashercrazy) will back me up on this - you want to do this while the machine is upside down!! | ||
| Post# 577549 , Reply# 8 2/21/2012 at 22:06 (4,445 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
i did check with larry
at modern parts two years ago when i got my bowtie machine to see if any pump seals or complete motor/pump assemblies were out there just in case i would need one. unfortunately he told me there were none anywhere that he knew of.
like said above let's hope it's leaking from the drain hose or maybe the main pump coupling and not the motor seal. i also see from the repair manual i have that those bowtie machines had a "pressed on" impeller, not one you could easily service. on mine since it didn't leak i didn't even try to take any of it apart. i did use some wd-40 on mine about a month ago before firing it up after a year and a half of no use. good luck with it and maybe someone else here knows of some more part stores out there besides larry at modern parts who may have a seal for g.e. bowtie machines, should you need one. | ||
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Post# 577565 , Reply# 10 2/22/2012 at 00:53 (4,445 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon) |
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Removing front panel
The 2 screws you want to remove are on the outside at the bottom of the white panel. After you remove them the panel kind of drops down if I remember correctly. Do it slowly and carefully while keeping an eye on the plastic dial and you should be fine.
I have this same dishwasher and luckily have never had a leak through the bottom but I did have to replace the washer at the hose end where it connects to the water inlet valve which is behind the cover. Keep us posted and maybe send some pictures once the cover is off. You might just have a loose wire somewhere. Also if the lid isn't firmly closed which pushes down on the safety switch, the machine will not run. Good Luck -Patrick | ||
| Post# 577585 , Reply# 11 2/22/2012 at 04:45 (4,445 days old) by mikepaquette () | ||
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My Dream dishwasher Best of luck and please keep us posted.. Mike | ||
| Post# 577725 , Reply# 13 2/22/2012 at 21:55 (4,444 days old) by Kelpy () | ||
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Also the wiring diagram on the inside just in case anyone was interested. 
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| Post# 577731 , Reply# 14 2/22/2012 at 22:23 (4,444 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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that machine looks almost exactly
like mine! that sink adapter is the standard small diam. size available at home depot or lowes.
i would just put a wee bit of water in it by hand first and turn it on and try to see where it is leaking rather than let it fill on it's own. one thing a lot of us here do is to pour a cup or so of very hot water in it and let it stand for 20 min or so before turning it on for the first time. this helps soften up the seal if it hasn't been used for awhile. i also like spraying wd-40 into the pump area to lubricate the rubber in the seal. i sometimes even spray a good dose in a little water and let it soak for awhile. if it is leaking you don't want to flood the motor with water! you may luck out and find that it's not leaking around that seal after all! i had one 2 weeks ago that i posted here in a thread and it leaked terribly the first time i tried it. after lubricating the seal with wd-40 and hot water it now runs without one drop of a leak! good luck and lots of pics please! love pics! | ||
| Post# 577732 , Reply# 15 2/22/2012 at 22:43 (4,444 days old) by mixfinder () | ||
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Adaptor Go to Wood's Harware on Pearl. They'll not only have it but can help you trouble shoot just about everything. Bob Woods or his son Ryan are the best. Kelly | ||
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Post# 577749 , Reply# 16 2/23/2012 at 01:16 (4,444 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon) |
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Your machine looks in fantastic shape for its age. So glad you found the problem and it was something simple. Yes, the faucet adapter is the small standard GE type. Hopefully the leak is just from sitting and once the seals soften up with hot water it will go away. Keeping my fingers crossed for you.
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| Post# 577854 , Reply# 18 2/23/2012 at 15:24 (4,443 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas) | ||
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Couldn't you make a new seal with maybe some Permatex gasket sealer? You really want to make sure no water gets in the motor while the unit is running. That has happened to us twice over the years and when it happens you'll get a fireworks show you won't soon forget! | ||
| Post# 577856 , Reply# 19 2/23/2012 at 16:07 (4,443 days old) by Kelpy () | ||
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This is where i'm getting all the drips from if that helps, I've WD-40'd all around the top of that metal bracket and poured some more hot water in. It never leaks all the way, just slightly above where the bowtie blades reach. 
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Post# 577873 , Reply# 20 2/23/2012 at 19:02 (4,443 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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Approved by the University of Louisville, KY, no less! Thanks for posting this. It was common for the Mobile Maids to leak from that area; especially if the sump was allowed to dry out. I think it may end up being a simple fix of replacing the boot or a slightly more complicated one of using some kind of caulking or sealer. Good luck with it and here's hoping you are able to get it up and running without too much grief.
Could we get some photos of the inside of the machine when you get it back together and some shots of what I assume is that nice red and blue control dial? Before I saw this brochure I thought all of those flock-markings on the bottom kick-plate of the Mobile Maids was rust. Who knew it was intentional? 
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| Post# 577880 , Reply# 21 2/23/2012 at 19:58 (4,443 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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if that leak is coming
from that stainless steel clamp with the phillips head screw then it's not leaking thru the main pump seal which is lower than that bracket. that main pump seal is below the drain impeller which sits below where that drain hose connects into the pump housing. so looks like you are in luck!
if it were me i would take off the bowtie by removing the 2 bolts, remove the drain hose (gently) from the pump housing. i say this because i have heard of the drain ports breaking off pump housings from old g.e. machines. i would disconnect all electrical wires from the motor, red, yel, blk, blu from your wiring diag above, and then loosen that clamp and remove the motor/pump unit. as said above that pump impeller is pressed on and the seal is underneath so it's not something you can easily check. but it's not leaking there so just let it be! put it in a safe place and then look for ways it is leaking around that clamp/boot area. i admit i have never taken the motor/pump off mine due that so far mine doesn't leak. but i would suspect that leak is due to either some problem in the clamping of the pump to the housing. take some pics of it and post for us, maybe we can help more. and while i had that motor off i would spray a good dose of wd-40 right in that pump housing so it will get down to the seal itself. look forward to your next post. these machines are so nostalgic, this is making me get mine back out of storage. gonna run it this week! good luck! | ||
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