May I ask what area of California you are at?

RCD

OT, but fab profile pic!

I searched this forum for "maytag motor slides" and here are 2 pics. Remember, the springs are to pull the motor out towards the front left corner of the cabinet, putting tension on the belt. When the springs are fully extended, the motor moves towards the center tub shaft. When compressed and at rest, they pull the motor away from center of machine, out towards corner putting tension on the belt.

Many thanks to someone else's post for this pic, my Maytag isn't anywhere near as prisitine, but runs perfectly.

This view is roughly from the left side of the machine, near the front.  Note that the springs are pulling the motor to the right in this pic, away from the direction of the unseen center tub pulley.

you also mentioned trouble with unbalanced spinning. While your husband is having fun getting those pesky springs in right, compare your washer's innards to the pics above. Are those huge vertical springs all good? Check both ends of all 3 of the braces running from the tub to the aluminum ring in the center, everything solid? Once you've finished the motor mount springs, do a load or two and watch what occurs, ask for more advice here. Everything you've described so far, from motor mounts to unbalance, are usually easy repairs on a  Maytag that will outlive you. The new motor mount wheels and springs and lube and belts will solve the slow action during agitation and spin, but the unbalance issue may be more related to that center aluminim damper and lubing there, and take a good look at the three huge springs and the three braces from center up to tub bolts.. Hopefully you only have one problem, most Maytags are well worth these repairs, but finish one chore and check, we can throw some advice on that unbalance problem too, once the first task is done.

there are many better Maytag experts than me who can chime in, I'm trying to remember my rebuild from 2 years ago, it seems to me I never undid the motor from the plate, and it was a very mean little job with broken and chipped screwdrivers to get that spring hooked end into the various little holes while the entire assembly was in place on the machine. When finished it worked perfectly well, but a tight-fitting little nasty precise job while working on the floor.

Someone......?????

DO NOT GIVE UP. Your Maytag will get all better with your work, and will live a long life. If these are nearly the only repairs needed at it's age, you know it was well built.

I would look for a good repair person that is enthusiastic about working on this washer and pay them to look at it and give an estimate as to what it needs. I wish you were in our service area as we would be glad to do this for you. And while it is technically possible to keep this washer running another 20 years it will likely cost as much or more in time and effort as buying a new SQ TL washer now. This is also a good time to get a new SQ TL washer, a new SQ will not only perform much better than your MT ever did when new but will use a little less energy without going to far. When you consider that a new SQ TL 2 speed  washer will only cost about $650.00  that is far less than the A606 cost in today's dollars when new.

You have gotten far more use out of your MT washer than MT intended and no washer or automobile will go on forever without major repairs and expenditures, I often advise my customers that have gotten GREAT service out of an appliance to quite while they are ahead.

Check out this thread and the simple resolution.  I don't know if your machine could have the same problem, but worth a look.

Will clean and spin and last far longer than a 1970s MT and it is just 251/2" wide. It also has a better warranty than the MT ever thought about when it was built.

Just like the new cars of, today compared to cars of the 1970s there is little comparison. Materials and quality control today are so good that manufactures couldn't even imagine that there would be so LITTLE service required on today's appliances. Myself and a few of my other appliance repair buddies have become millionaires fixing 1970s and 80s appliances as people would fix them again and again. This will not be nearly as easy today as newer appliances just do not have as many real problems now, a big percentage of the things I fix everyday are dumb problems and installion related issues but far fewer real failures of the machine itself.

Hi Andy I hope I will get to finely meet you at Kevin's in April.

My first advice is to get an accurate appraisal on the MT and if the transmission is not the problem and the damper is not shot it may have a few more years in it. I fix MTs this old every month I am all for getting the longest reasonable life out of any decent appliance.

One other good option if the owner really likes the look of her current MT washer is to buy a good used 1980s - mid 1990s working MT DC machine and do a cabinet transplant using the newer drive line. The number 1 reason that we are trashing 1970s MT washers is top transmission bearing [ agitator shaft ] is binding in the top housing 2nd is probably snubbers that have lost there pads and are in a metal to metal condition for a long time. And while it is certainly possible to repair either one of these conditions they are not simple or cheap repairs.

What you might want to do, if you decide to replace it, is take the machine apart and sell the pieces on ebay. I know lots of people who might pay well for all  of those valuable parts. The buttons alone seem to fetch a lot on line. Recycling is less of a sacrilege than the crusher.

If you're persistent, you may find a SQ top loader readily available through a small independent dealership.  A member here was recently facing the same issue but after spending a little time calling around, he found a SQ at an appliance store not far from him.

If there's an issue with fill level once you get your SQ, there are threads on how to increase it, and people here who can help guide you.

The post is 10 YO, the original poster is probably long gone.