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Thread Number: 39300
How to tweak water levels on roper/estate/inglis machines? |
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| Post# 582459 3/14/2012 at 20:14 (4,418 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick ) | ||
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I was thinking about getting a new one but not unless the water level switch is tweak-able.....i see that now they only fill to a small level on the rinse and not completely full on the first part of the cycle........... | ||
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| Post# 582538 , Reply# 2 3/15/2012 at 02:47 (4,418 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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| Post# 582726 , Reply# 3 3/15/2012 at 20:19 (4,417 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick ) | ||
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So.... If i just take out the rinse water level switch and put the other up to full setting it will operate like normal whirlpools made before 2011.....when will they go out of production? | ||
Post# 582808 , Reply# 5 3/16/2012 at 11:22 (4,417 days old) by Kenmoreguy64  (Charlotte, NC) |
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Qualin 
They didn't cut any corners. It costs money to de-content parts and then stock new/different parts, etc. The plastic outer tubs have been present in DDs from the start, and are injection molded. They cannot be made with less material unless a whole new mold is built (at a cost of hundreds of thousands of dollars or more). The part numbers of the components used on these machines are the same as always for gearcases, tubs, baskets, etc. The price is low because the tooling has been amortized and fully depreciated, the line in the plant is not yet converted to the VMW so they need something to fill the capacity, and the DD washer, still made by the tens of thousands, has always had a high degree of mark-up, so they are simply selling for less. You should really check your facts before you become such a nay-sayer, at least when offering advice.
As to when production ends, I was told either end of this month, or end of April. I think end of April. About the rinse level switch -- it is not as simple as taking out the rinse pressure switch. The wiring to it would have to be meshed with the wiring to the wash pressure switch in order for proper circuits to be satisfied, and even then without experimenting/seeing a machine, I don't know what other things should be jumped to be safe, etc. Best bet is to install a pressure switch for wash from Whirlpool's recent WTW5100 (then you'll get a full wash fill) and set the rinse at full fill provided by the current switch, OR install a single level DD pressure switch in its place which provides a full fill. I wouldn't modify electrical wiring unless you are comfortable and feel safe doing so. Gordon | ||
| Post# 582840 , Reply# 6 3/16/2012 at 12:24 (4,417 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY) | ||
DD Performance I too am in agreement with Gordon.
I would also like to add, that while the SQ machine may be a good machine, it is hard to dispute the DD platform as being a good performer for the money for the last 30 years. These are the last of these machines and for a new machine here they are priced at about $359. The comparable SQ is closer to $550 - $600 depending on retailer. The only thing to dislike about the Roper/Inglis/Estate machines is the rinse-level, which can be adjusted.
As I recall, small changes are also being made to the SQ machines to bring them to standards so who knows how long those machines will be acceptable use machines. Also remember that many SQ commercial machines (new) do grey-water rinses, so in a way, I'd rather have a low water rinse than a grey bath in half-used wash water. This could someday be implemented in the home machines.
If a simple switch in the control panel area needs to be tweaked, what's all the fuss about. We have people all over the place tweaking the water level on SQ machines, now there must be a reason for that. Anyone who has ever worked on a recent DD machine can attest how easy it is to get to the control panel guts. I don't condone rewiring any machine if you don't know what you're doing, but setting a hidden switch isn't difficult.
I really am surprised at the number of people who sling at these machines, all over a silly switch. I personally find DD machines boring, I'd much rather have a vintage machine, but they are good machines. When they are gone and the people are moaning and groaning about their wash-plate machines when they could have had one last DD machine it will be a shame.
Really though the new DD put-downs are irritating especially when considering people are making the same tweaks to the SQ's as would need to be made to these.
-Tim | ||
| Post# 582862 , Reply# 8 3/16/2012 at 13:44 (4,417 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick ) | ||
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@coldspot66 Could you please tell me how i can readjust the rinse switch? like where its located and what part to turn to get it to fill up the whole way? | ||
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Post# 582868 , Reply# 9 3/16/2012 at 14:47 (4,417 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Coldspot | ||
| Post# 582888 , Reply# 10 3/16/2012 at 18:11 (4,417 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick ) | ||
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@ Kenmoreguy64 Like what kind of rewiring? like pulling some wires out of the other one and putting them in terminals on the regular one or like really hard rewiring? | ||
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Post# 582912 , Reply# 11 3/16/2012 at 19:43 (4,416 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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New DD Washers with dual water level switches It would be fairly easy to just wire the machine to use the user adjustable wash water level switch. That said I do not recommend that anyone not experienced with electrical appliance wiring do this.
These are great machines and I agree with John, Gordon and Tim on this, I could agree with you Bud on this but then we would both be wrong LOL. | ||
| Post# 582919 , Reply# 12 3/16/2012 at 20:04 (4,416 days old) by DirectDriveDave () | ||
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Plastic outer tub. Ya know, I certainly do like when parts are metal as opposed to plastic, but one thing I like about the plastic outer tubs is that I never have to worry about it rusting. | ||
| Post# 582962 , Reply# 15 3/17/2012 at 03:43 (4,416 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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The second pressure switch was added to try to satisfy compliance with govt energy savings. For another example, we'll use the Amana mfg'd bottom freezers. They use a evaporator fan motor that employs a built in computer chip to save some minuscule amount of energy to help get it under the energy threshold. The fan motor design is prone to failure but... So anyway, it fails and the replacement is actually a retrofit to the common design motor used forever but uses a little more energy. Now, this is ok because once the unit is sold and put into service, you can use that part that uses a little more energy without causing the manufacturers trouble (as it's been explained to me...)
So. Once the washer has been sold, that water level can be adjusted to the higher level. It's a regular switch with the adjustment shaft cut back so it doesn't stick thru the panel. The shaft is still there and is basically a two position switch. Just 'click' it to the higher position. RCF | ||
| Post# 582993 , Reply# 17 3/17/2012 at 09:12 (4,416 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick ) | ||
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@qualin Well im worried they will stop making them before i get one, if i was getting one it would be summer before i got it so im not sure if they will still make them in june or july? | ||
| Post# 582996 , Reply# 18 3/17/2012 at 09:24 (4,416 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick ) | ||
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@redcarpetdrew Where exactly would the rinse switch be located? in the control panel right? | ||
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