Thread Number: 39447
Removing the Agitator block ??
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Post# 584512   3/22/2012 at 23:33 (4,416 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

How does one remove the Funny cone shaped hex Agitator block?

Looks like I am going to have to replace ALL the seals to stop the leaking...
But this agitator block has been the biggest Mystery..





Post# 584514 , Reply# 1   3/22/2012 at 23:50 (4,416 days old) by aldspinboy (Philadelphia, Pa)        

aldspinboy's profile picture

Go in Photos... Restorations ...and look at Robert's Kenmore Restorations for now.

 

Starting at Photo 12.

 

 

 

 

Darren k


Post# 584578 , Reply# 2   3/23/2012 at 09:51 (4,415 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

OK so how do I get this littel Brass threaded screw off? does it screw on and off the normal way? Do I even have to take it of the remove the block?

Post# 584591 , Reply# 3   3/23/2012 at 11:04 (4,415 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
Yes, that brass nut is right hand threaded. Go to the restorations section on this site, and Robert has detailed instructions with photos on how to restore an early KM/WP belt drive machine. It is a 1957 Kenmore, which is the same as your 60's Whirlpool. Just print the whole thing out, and you will have a nice belt drive manual to work with on your Whirlpool restoration. This is what I did for my first WP/KM restoration and it was very helpful. They are easy to work on, if you know what to do.

Post# 584627 , Reply# 4   3/23/2012 at 13:58 (4,415 days old) by 1966_mustang ()        

I look through this restoration process under the photos and did not see where it gave details on how to remove this..
I saw how to remove the block by heating it up. But did not see how to remove this brass nut..


Post# 584682 , Reply# 5   3/23/2012 at 19:31 (4,415 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
block

If you have the metal block hold it with channel lock pliers and unscew the topscrew with an adjustable wrench then heat the block up slightly with a torch towards the top being careful not to damage the agitator shaft seal(by setting it on fire with the torch) then take a large screw driver and place it under the block and hit it with a hammer and it should pop right off.If you have the plastic block remove the brass screw the same way and tap the block off with the hammer you dont have to heat it.When resealing the tub replace the center seal put a coating of clear silicone on the outer edge of the underside of the seal then once installed a coating around the seal and centerpost.Also put a coating on the drainhole grommet and around the tubscrew washers and your tub wont leak again.Let dry for 24 hours.Hope this helps.


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