Thread Number: 39485
SQ AWN432 - Overheat - It almost happened! |
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Post# 585088   3/25/2012 at 23:22 (4,413 days old) by LLMaytag (Southern California)   |   | |
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As some of you may remember, I posted a note in the not-to-distant past about an experience with my somewhat new AWN432. It appeared to be between the wash and first drain/spin, but was unresponsive with a smell of electrical burning. After several attempts to put it back to agitate, or fill or spin, with no response at all, so I left it alone for a while. A while later I put it back to the first spin, and it started.
Tonight as it was washing a large load of all black cotton stuff, (tshirts, socks, polos, etc), I hear the wash agitation stop. Then a few seconds later when I should hear the spin begin with the sound of water flowing to the drain, all i heard was a very prominent hum. I went in, and sure enough, no motion, just the hum. I pushed the timer in, pulled out again to a hum. So I figured it must have had either some kind of mechanical jam, or the motor simply wasn't not reversing properly. I put it back to agitate, and it agitated normally. I then tried putting it to the spin on the dial after the rinse, again hum. I let it rest for a while, then put the dial to the very last part of the wash agitate, figuring maybe it needed to transition again, and fortunately it started the proper drain/spin. The rest of the cycle ran without incident. I'm now washing a small load, and it's running okay....but what do you think? Should I call repair? |
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Post# 585090 , Reply# 1   3/25/2012 at 23:46 (4,413 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))   |   | |
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Post# 585091 , Reply# 2   3/26/2012 at 00:24 (4,413 days old) by LLMaytag (Southern California)   |   | |
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Hey Arbilad - Thanks for the response. I had considered that perhaps there was something about the timer transitioning from wash to the first drain/spin on this specific cycle, so that's why I tried advancing to the spin after the rinse, but when I tried it, still just hum. Now I admit that I don't understand exactly how timers work, but would the contacts you refer to, are they specific to each phase on the timer, or all spin phases on the dial?
-L |
Post# 585107 , Reply# 3   3/26/2012 at 05:54 (4,413 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 585137 , Reply# 4   3/26/2012 at 10:38 (4,412 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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If this is a "somewhat new" and still under warranty washer, and this continues to occur in only certain conditions, I think it is very adviseable to have this situation documented with SQ as soon as possible. In case this is one of those things that doesn't happen when the service tech. is watching, and especially if you are close to your warranty expiry, your issue will be on record with SQ while in warranty in case this drags on past the warranty period. That way, if or when they finally figure out what is going on, you should be covered for the cost.
Clearly something is either allowing the motor to load up, or is not sending proper current to it. Either way, I wouldn't mess with an overheating motor very long as I would never feel like I could trust the washer without hovering near it the entire time it was operating. Good luck! From what I hear, SQ is very good in their handling of problems, so please keep us informed! Gordon |
Post# 585142 , Reply# 5   3/26/2012 at 11:26 (4,412 days old) by LLMaytag (Southern California)   |   | |
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Gordon,
Great advice. You're absolutely right...for the last few loads I was doing exactly that, hovering nearby. Luckily my laundry room is inside the house, and because of the way my house is laid out, if I leave the laundry room door open, I can hear the cycle well enough to know if something is wrong, but it's frustrating because I avoid putting the TV up load, or like last night, I had worked out and wanted to shower as a load was running, etc. Have a good one! |
Post# 585196 , Reply# 6   3/26/2012 at 14:47 (4,412 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Leonard -
I know precisely what you're talking about. I have a laundry room in the house, and another in the garage which I had my builder make as an extra. In the house are my most-special machines, but in the garage are a host of others, many which I would have inside if I could. That said, my second dryer, which I bought used for my sister in 1989, has been drying for me since 2007, especially in the summer. It was manufactured in fall 1977, and has countless thousands of loads in its history. Last summer its motor started going bad, but not all at once and it didn't demonstrate any odd behavior, it just got progressively louder. Through 2010, it was quiet, quiet enough that I had to listen to hear if it was running or not, just 15 feet away. Last year, I could hear it through the walls, louder and louder as the motor finally wore. Last fall, it started making occasional grinding sounds, which then caused the motor to amp-up too, leading to a louder hum. Just a month or two ago, I was using the dryer only to see how long it keep going as it was groaning a slow death - I'd have to keep the garage door open, and be within feet (aka hovering) of the machine in case it locked up, put on a light show, etc. Well, it went out with the slightest of whimpers, as it was running one minute, although loudly, then it was off the next, and I was standing right in front of it when it happened. The machine just stopped. No fireworks, now hail mary, no major poofs even. BUT, it did leave a somewhat unpleasant hot/electrical smell. The drum was locked tight - the motor seized. My Mom when told said "So, are you going to put it out to the curb finally?" (she knows the machine's history) and then gave a hearty laugh when I told her that I had sourced an identical replacement motor on ebay for $14.95 and it had already been delivered. I waited a couple weeks to install it, but so far the dryer runs at least as quietly as it did in 2010 and earlier, if not maybe just a little bit quieter even. I am not hovering anymore either. Call SQ - you'll be glad you did, and let us know what happens! |
Post# 585277 , Reply# 8   3/26/2012 at 22:35 (4,412 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))   |   | |
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The same contact set is used for all reverse operations wherever they happen on the dial position. Reverse requires two contact sets, double the chance for trouble. That's why it was my first guess. Typically one contact goes up at the same time another goes down and makes contact in both directions. Whereas most other contacts make contact only in the down position. If you ever saw one apart you could easily see what is hard to describe in text.
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