Thread Number: 39785
Review of Speed Queen AWN412
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Post# 589114   4/13/2012 at 18:41 (2,261 days old) by mercman ()        

Initial Impression of the Speed Queen AWN412

We now have owned the SQ AWN412 over two weeks now, so I'm ready to give an initial review from a NOVICE reviewers point of view.
I'll start with the Pros which are most of the reasons for buying this machine over others to begin with. First of all, I think top-loaders are easier to live with and this model even more so than other top-loaders that we looked at. Benefits are...

NO expensive HE detergent needed.
No front door gasket to leak and get mildew.
Can leave lid open to air out, NO mildew.
Can interrupt any cycle at anytime.
No expensive electronic controls to break.
No locking lid lock B.S.
Has an agitator (needed for top-loader, propellers and plates don't clean clothes).
Stainless steel wash tub.
Metal outer wash tub with S S baffles (no plastic to mildew and smell).
Very quite!
So far agitator has been gentle on clothes.
Easy to re-adjust the water level inside control panel.
Regular wash cycle cleans & rinses small to medium loads well.

Now for the cons...

I'm not buying the sales pitch that this machine is commercial grade. The cabinet is of lesser gauge (thinner) steel than our old washer, a little flimsy in my opinion. The switches don't feel of great quality and are made in Mexico.

Regular wash cycle with a large load (one that our old Hotpoint could do) does an unacceptable job!
With a full load, pants just sit on top of the water and don't move at all! Most clothes barely cycle in the tub. Must do smaller loads than our old Hotpoint washer.

Where is the HOT water? I would settle for warm if this machine could deliver!
I'm getting only about 25% hot water flow rate. I guess SQ now restricts how much hot water the machines can use, just like the other companies.

Overall I feel the SQ AWN412 is a descent machine which only time will tell if it was worth the premium price tag for a toploader.


Post# 589149 , Reply# 1   4/13/2012 at 21:55 (2,261 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA)        
Commercial grade

peterh770's profile picture
Coin-op SQ cabinets are just as flimsy...

Post# 589159 , Reply# 2   4/13/2012 at 22:44 (2,261 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Two things on the Hot water issue......

you can drill out the restrictor OR turn your water heater up to 140/160 degress.....I did the second one....and get a real warm wash....

note:keep in mind, the water spout flowing the water in IS pouring water into and behind the SS tub....I took mine apart, and sealed off the rear exit....all water now flows onto the clothes.....especially during the spin rinse

I am suprised your having issues with a full load, I never experienced that....

Post# 589167 , Reply# 3   4/13/2012 at 23:26 (2,261 days old) by LLMaytag (Southern California)        

llmaytag's profile picture
I have the AWN432, which is similar except I have a 2nd rinse option. Tell me, how high does the water fill on the highest level setting? You probably still have two to three rows of hows left at the top of the tub. There is apparently a way to adjust the highest water level. I'll look for that posting..but I think that would allow you to have a more effective full-load wash. I havent' done it yet, but need to on my 432.

Post# 589209 , Reply# 4   4/14/2012 at 05:50 (2,261 days old) by mercman ()        
Water level

Yes, I adjusted the water level. Now fills just below the top row of holes.

Post# 589240 , Reply# 5   4/14/2012 at 08:41 (2,261 days old) by rapunzel (Sydney)        

I am surprised by your comment regarding full load and turn over. Can't say that I've ever had that problem with my SQs. Even with slight overload turnover is not brisk, but steady and consistent. Cleaning has never been an issue. Curious to know what's gone wrong with your washer.

Post# 589265 , Reply# 6   4/14/2012 at 10:28 (2,261 days old) by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

nmassman44's profile picture
Well wait a minute here...I have an AWN 311 SQ washer and it does alright with rollover. Methinks your overloading your machine. I load the machine dry dropping clothes in loosely up to the top row of holes. I know alot of people start the machine then add detergent to dissolve then the clothes but one really can overload the machine and the clothes get wet and pack down. It gives a false sense of hey I can add more when in reality you shouldn't.
As far as build goes it's far better built than lets say an LG washer that will explode with a balled up sheet or mattress cover. Suspension is rugged and the washer carries on and gets the job done. One thing I wish is that they had a spray rinse in the final spin. The spray rinse that I get in the first spin the tub isn't even drained nor is the wash basket up to speed. The thing is for the cabinet as long as it keeps the machine together and doesn't crush itself and your not going to sit on it are ya?! Unless your in a fit of passion and wanna get your swirl on the washer during the spin cycle then it might be an issue.

Post# 589269 , Reply# 7   4/14/2012 at 11:00 (2,261 days old) by mercman ()        

Overloading...I think the definition is relative to the situation. In this case I do believe my wife & I are overloading the SQ AWN412, but at the same time with the same likeness of load we were not overloading the old Hotpoint. For some reason it seems to be the jeans that just sit on top of the water, I have seen this twice now. Smaller load and the problem goes away.

Post# 589275 , Reply# 8   4/14/2012 at 11:35 (2,261 days old) by mercman ()        
Cabinet strength...

Cabinet strength...Doing something kinky on this washer is out of the question! I leaned on the lid once to turn the water valve behind the washer, I was only leaning on it with one forearm and the whole lid popped in like a cheap soup can. To fix it I opened the lid held it with one hand and pushed, it popped back to normal.

Commercial Grade "I think NOT".

Post# 589280 , Reply# 9   4/14/2012 at 11:42 (2,261 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        
Hot Water Restrictor

Couldn't you also buy another water valve that doesn't have the resctrictor?

(yes I know this is not a free alternative)

Post# 589396 , Reply# 10   4/14/2012 at 17:22 (2,260 days old) by mercman ()        
Hot Water!

Hot Water restrictor...
I don't know anything about water restrictors in washing machines but if it is an easy jog I would consider doing it. I was thinking of buying two washing machine hose Y adapters. Connecting one on the wall and the other on the back of the machine, then connect them with an re-enforced/heavy duty single hose. This too might restrict the flow of water when wanting WARM, but should work fine for cold & hot.

Any thoughts anyone?

Post# 589408 , Reply# 11   4/14/2012 at 18:00 (2,260 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Reverse Hoses

mrb627's profile picture
Why not reverse the hot and cold hoses and the associated wire connectors on the vale so that the cold water is restricted and hot flows freely. You'll get a nice warm wash that way.


Post# 589630 , Reply# 12   4/15/2012 at 12:18 (2,260 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        

I have my SQ three years now, and I have had on old GE FF.........rollover and capacity are MUCH BETTER in the SQ...I have never had that problem, and I have LOADED my SQ up! the cabinet is as good as you are gonna get today!!! Yes, I agree the GE was a heavy dity cabinet,,,but this is commercial grade for today, and much better that anything on thhmarket!

Post# 589636 , Reply# 13   4/15/2012 at 12:35 (2,259 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)        

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I agree with mtn1584 - of what you can get today, it's the best cabinet out there - AND identical to their commercial grade units that I've seen in the new SQ laundromat. No, they are not 1/4" thick like they were 30 years ago...never will be again. Rollover is never an issue for me as I follow the "fill loosely to the top rop of holes" rule that's been around since at least the 80s - read that in my Whirlpool manual in 1984. Follow that and you're golden.

My sister used my SQ when her WP broke down. First thing she did was to CRAM her clothes in it. I quickly tried to correct her and an argument shortly ensued. I see this ALL THE TIME at the laundromat...IF YOUR CLOTHES DON'T TURN OVER, THEY DON'T GET CLEAN! Simple as that...adjust accordingly.

I have my SQ fill till the top of the "hole gap" which is where it would be if there were no level restrictions as you can see in the Aussie version of the SQ.

This video shows a very heavy load - and good turnover as well.

Post# 589653 , Reply# 14   4/15/2012 at 13:41 (2,259 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Hey...the Aussie machines don't Spin-Drain?........

I wonder Dan if he would do better with the solid vane agitator?.....curious...

Not sure what you mean Matt with adding the extra hose......

and be cautious about getting another first I switched one from a Maytag, it was the same valve......then I took one from a GE FF, removed the restrictor......and WOW!, Niagra Falls.......

These from the GE's were easy, the restictor is a little rubber washer, can be removed in minutes.......the SQ has to be drilled to make the opening larger...

Post# 589667 , Reply# 15   4/15/2012 at 14:54 (2,259 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)        

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Possibly. I don't like the solid vanes short stature, but if you are overloader it would probably be the way to go...but I believe it to be a bit harsher on the clothes. That is what SQ puts in it's Commercial washer - but the commercial tubs are also smaller.

Post# 589668 , Reply# 16   4/15/2012 at 14:55 (2,259 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)        

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Yogi, I'd like to have a warmer mix, but I'm not too sure about drilling. Any pics of the SQ version?

Post# 589672 , Reply# 17   4/15/2012 at 15:10 (2,259 days old) by mayfan69 (Brisbane Queensland Australia)        
That's my SQ

mayfan69's profile picture versions for the Aussie market don't spin-drain.

They have electric pumps.

I have to agree with Dan here....i don't usually cram my SQ with that much clothes as i did with this load and the turn over is fine, even with heavy items such as jeans etc.

As for the build quality, its better than you're going to get with probably any machine on the market today. I'd be looking at more the commercial 'components' such as the gearbox and outer bowl, because THEY'RE heavy duty.


Post# 589687 , Reply# 18   4/15/2012 at 16:00 (2,259 days old) by mercman ()        
Cabinet Strength...Over Stuffing

Cabinet Strength...
In regards to commercial grade products today, the only real comparison I can make is with the 25 YO Hotpoint HD that I no longer have. It might not be fair to compare the two since maybe nothing is made like it use to be. Either way I find this thought disappointing.

I did have a talk with the wife about over stuffing the machine. I mentioned that on this forum they recommend to load the drum dry and semi loose, then add the water. We both will give this method a try (old habits can be hard to break).

Post# 589702 , Reply# 19   4/15/2012 at 16:53 (2,259 days old) by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

nmassman44's profile picture
Your clothes will last longer and your machine as well.....The other thing I was thinking of is that the Hotpoint washer has a much smaller wash basket than the SQ washer. You had to be packing it tight and the spiral agitator tries to get the load rolled over. Both machines are different animals. The main reason the GE Hotpoint washer needs to have a stronger cabinet is because the cabinet holds the weight of all the water in the machine and the suspension system. It is more rigid because of the "aircraft cable suspension". The SQ washer uses the base to send the weight to the floor and to anchor the wash system by springs. The SQ washer can handle out of balance loads better.

Post# 589704 , Reply# 20   4/15/2012 at 17:02 (2,259 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
New TL SQ Washers

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The SQs lid is probably the same thickness as the old HP-GE the difference is that it is much larger and like many other washers lids if you sit on it it will bow downward, it is easy to fix just open it and pound in the middle with your fist. I am sure that a straighten at least 5 washer lids a week on newer GEs and WP-KM washers. The cabinet likewise is at least as thick as the old washer. I agree with you on the agitators ability to turn over really big loads and I have tried in vane to get SQ to use a dual-action agitator in their washers. There is no reason in this day in time not to be able to wash really large loads of jeans etc and have them turn over, as a dealer we know this machine well we sell 6-10 TLs per month and the lack of the DA agitator is the worst thing about this washer. The best thing to do about the reduced warm temperature is to substitute a 50/50 inlet valve or remove the filter screen on the hot side and drill out the hole to the same size as the cold side, be sure to carefully replace the inlet screen.

Post# 589707 , Reply# 21   4/15/2012 at 17:08 (2,259 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        
Speed Queen handles unbalanced loads much better...

than a a GE filter flo ever could!!! As heavy as those machines are, with their air craft like suspension, they would walk across the floor and back, do an Irish jig, and bounce up and down until you lifted the dam lid to stop the spinning!! I have never had an out of balance issue with my SQ. Massman is right as well the tub on the HP Extra Large Cap was only 2.7 cu ft., where the SQ is 3.3 cu. ft! If I had the choice today to get a brand new GE FF, or the SQ I have today, I would choose the SQ...Easier operation, and better washing results. I only wish there was a lint filter on these machines, but alas no manufacturer cares about this anymore.

Post# 589719 , Reply# 22   4/15/2012 at 17:44 (2,259 days old) by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

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There is a filter on the SQ's under the wash basket and self cleaning. But I will agree it leaves alot to be desired. I noticed that when I was hanging laundry out on the line to dry dryer handles lint well but when I am not using it like today I do notice lint more.

Post# 590335 , Reply# 23   4/17/2012 at 16:21 (2,257 days old) by mercman ()        
Hot water flow update...

Hot water flow update...
I read the post from Yogi that mentioned about drilling out the hole behind the water inlet screen, so what the heck lets do it. I removed both hoses, then carefully removed the screens. Noticed right away that there is a big difference between the hole for the cold and hot. I matched-up the cold inlet hole to be a 3/16 drill bit, the hot was only about 1/3 the size. Using my 3/16 drill bit I carefully drilled-out the hot water inlet hole. ONE MUST BE CARE FULL the wall is about 1/16 thick and right behind it looks to be an water deflector (don't want to drill into deflector). Clean plastic shaving from inlet, reinstall screens and hoses. The result is equal amount of hot and cold water now entering the machine. We're much, much, much, much happier now!

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice.

Post# 590346 , Reply# 24   4/17/2012 at 17:22 (2,257 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Good Job

mrb627's profile picture
Glad that you were able to make this relatively easy adjustment to your machine. Now I am wondering if it would be of any advantage to perform the same procedure on my FL machine. Honestly, since the machine is sealed during operation, I really don't know how cool or warm the wash water is.


Post# 590354 , Reply# 25   4/17/2012 at 17:53 (2,257 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        
Somebody's a happy camper......

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Wonderful.....does anyone here think thats he's much, much, much, much happier now!

I did the same with mine although I went a few sizes bigger, it is rather easy, just take your the flow rate of the waterfall as well.......

Malcolm, take the temp of the drain hose output on your next load.....that should be close enough to what the actual temp is...

how about the lid switch......and higher water level....and cut the restrictor off the end of the drain hose......just little improvements that makes us happy....and we all want to be much, much, much, much happier.....don't we?

Post# 590381 , Reply# 26   4/17/2012 at 19:08 (2,257 days old) by mercman ()        
Happy Camper!!!

Who doesn't want to be a happy camper after spending good money on a new washer/drier set? It's the simple things in life that can annoy us. Ya know, I was thinking of making both inlet holes larger, then I heard Clint Eastwood say "A man has to know his limitations". So I took Clint's advise!

Post# 590383 , Reply# 27   4/17/2012 at 19:15 (2,257 days old) by mercman ()        

If I can make this simple alteration to the hot inlet with out ruining anything I'm sure you can too.

Post# 590385 , Reply# 28   4/17/2012 at 19:16 (2,257 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Good advise.......

but my Motto has always been "Size Matters!"

Post# 590389 , Reply# 29   4/17/2012 at 19:22 (2,257 days old) by mercman ()        

No comment...I'm speechless!!!

Post# 590397 , Reply# 30   4/17/2012 at 19:43 (2,257 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Yeah, Imagine all that!

Post# 590455 , Reply# 31   4/18/2012 at 01:10 (2,257 days old) by qualin (Canada)        

I get the feeling that the front loaders don't have the hot water restricted like the top loaders, because when I select a hot wash, the glass gets quite hot to the touch, which is pretty close to tap hot. Especially if I temper the machine first.

It makes sense to me that the hot water would be restricted on a top loader, because the amount of water which a top loader would need to use to fill would pretty much empty out most modern water heaters.

It was also probably there to keep the water from getting "Too" hot.

Personally, I do agree that "Hot" should mean tap hot, not 'sorta kinda' hot.

Now I'm kind of wondering if they use the same fill valves on their FL machines as their TL machines...

Post# 590477 , Reply# 32   4/18/2012 at 06:17 (2,257 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Water Restricter

mrb627's profile picture
The hot water fill is 100% hot in both the TL and FL machines. But when Warm is selected, the hot is about 1/3 the flow of the cold. So the Warm wash isn't a 50/50 mixture.


Post# 590486 , Reply# 33   4/18/2012 at 07:09 (2,257 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Malcolms right....its not 50/50 for a warm setting, even the AUTO temps are dubbed down, and harder to adjust.........

I operated a newer Whirlpool TL a few weeks ago, and selected HOT, it gave a 60 second fill with HOT, and then jumped the rest of the way to LUKEWARM, I even reset the timer, no go, it had to continue with LUKEWARM......only resourse was to reach under the sink and turn the COLD off until it finished filling....its getting crazy with the newer machines......

I'll stick with my vintage machines, but if I had to own a new one, I think I would forget the fill valve and do it manually....

as we learned, even SQ has a dubbed down version.......pretty soon machines are only gonna be allowed a single cold water hook-up, with no internal heater.....

that, or their gonna remove the water heaters from our homes.......

which brings me to a question....why not improve the source?....if the water heater uses so much energy, why hasn't someone come up with a better one, better design, granted their more efficient today, but apparently not enough!.....why isn't the government forcing these guys to produce a super efficient model......take the energy level one uses today, and for starters, make it do the same job with 25 to 50 percent less energy!

Post# 590491 , Reply# 34   4/18/2012 at 07:54 (2,257 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Water Heater Efficenty

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Martin its coming, but it is true that regular Gas water heaters are not nearly as efficient as they could be and regular electric water heaters should be taxed out of existence. I installed a new Rheem heat-pump water heater at my partners house over a year ago and it works GREAT. The WH only draws 6 AMPS at 240= 1446 watts vs the old one drawing 4500 watts and from what I can tell doesn't even run nearly as long or often as the old electric model did. And as an added benefit we stopped using the dehumidifier in the basement as the HPWH removes one or two gallons of water per week. Interestingly in the winter when the air is dryer it hasn't removed a drop of water since last October, I was concerned that it might make the air dryer in the house in the winter.

Post# 590580 , Reply# 35   4/18/2012 at 15:32 (2,256 days old) by mercman ()        
50/50 or what

So let me understand this, even after drilling-out the hot water inlet I'm still not getting a true 50/50 mix. WTH ?

Post# 590596 , Reply# 36   4/18/2012 at 17:23 (2,256 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
NO, NO, NO....your getting the best possible mix.......opening up both the same, its as close as possible.......

the before of your machine was not allowing a full 50/50 mix......that what was confusing some people, yeah, if you selected HOT, you got tap HOT water, same for COLD, but if you asked for WARM, it was more like 70/30, or luke warm if even that.....some people weren't even checking as to the actual temp once the machine was Malcolms machine, once locked, he can't be sure he's getting a true warm wash, or even hot for that matter.....

something just to keep in mind.......WARM is determined for you now based on incomming water temps.....if the COLD is icy cold, and your water heater is set at 120, you may be only getting a luke warm wash, and this can also change by the Season, and the area you live......thats why mine is set at 160, I can always turn the faucet down, and adjust to my liking.....

check your wash temp, warm if I am correct should be around 90 to 100F....

Post# 590616 , Reply# 37   4/18/2012 at 18:30 (2,256 days old) by mercman ()        
Ahhhhh, I see

We did a wash today using the warm setting with both hot and cold faucets wide open. The temperature to me seemed to feel like a warm pool water like around 80 degrees. I have a well and the water is cold, my hot water heater is set to 120 degrees. I also think the cold tanks drop the temp a bit. How about making the hot water inlet hole larger than the cold?

Post# 590621 , Reply# 38   4/18/2012 at 18:49 (2,256 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
You're right Yogi about the temperature of what the water is coming in, it should be what each faucet has. I have an oil fired boiler with tankless hot water coil and I think the valve that regulates the temp from boiling to hot has gone out and I have to have it replaced. I notice now the Maytag does not fill with Hot when set and when the machine fills up the furnace burner finally kicks on. Same thing happened in the shower today, went cold and I always had more than enough hot water but now I have to wait for it to heat. Not a project I am going to tackle.

Post# 590642 , Reply# 39   4/18/2012 at 20:19 (2,256 days old) by xraytech (S.W. Pennsylvania, near Pittsb)        

xraytech's profile picture

In order to compensate for the coolness of the warm water mix in my Speed Queen I just fill the tub 1/3 with hot water then switch to warm the remainder of the fill, We get very hot water in the washer, as there is only about 3 feet of pipes from water heater to washer, and I have the temp set on 140 degrees


What really pisses me off is the requirement of only being able to rinse in cold water, I prefer warm rinses

Post# 590728 , Reply# 40   4/19/2012 at 07:06 (2,256 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
you could drill the hole a little larger, but to just fine tune it at this point, I would try first by adjusting the cold faucet a little....because your temps are gonna change thru out the year.....I a getting too much HOT right now, because of the water heater set temp, so I have to cut back the HOT valve

Sam, you could have two choices, intall a "Y" and set the Temps manually, or just reset the machine to WASH, once filled with warm, turn dial around to rinse and let it finish, either way, its gonna take some monitoring.....

a few of my machines have a WARM rinse option, but usually only if I select a HOT wash......the Neptunes are the only ones that have the WARM/WARM option...

Post# 590832 , Reply# 41   4/19/2012 at 14:38 (2,255 days old) by mercman ()        
Water Temp

Just took the water temp it was 81 degrees, "not bad". I find this to be acceptable for a mild warm all purpose wash conditions. We can live without the warm rinse I guess. At least the Federal Government wants me to live without the option for the rinse cycle. "Whats next"

Post# 590838 , Reply# 42   4/19/2012 at 14:54 (2,255 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
You know, as scary as it may seem, that may be the next course, Wash and Spin, thats it.....but at that point, I could live with it, a bit of a pain, but consider it a Semi-Automatic......set the machine to Wash and Spin, and then reset to Rinse and Spin all over......

WE always find a way around it.....and will!

Post# 594158 , Reply# 43   5/4/2012 at 12:32 (2,240 days old) by Mikeske (Washington State)        

1st time post for me. My wife and I just got a AWN412, My wife loves her new Speed Queen. We had a Samsung made Maytag Neptune, the last edition before Maytag was sold to Whirlpool, we had bought the extended 5 year warranty for the Maytag and ended up using it a lot.

There is no comparsion on the Maytag to Speed Queen, The Speed Queen wins hands down in our home, My wife likes the fact that the Speed Queen has all the settings that she wants and uses most frequently, there is also no lid lock, computer and the the fact that she decides how the wash is to be done instead of some computer deciding for her.

The difference in how cloths are washed in the Speed Queen makes it the best machine for us. Our cloths are already coming out a lot softer and feel better with the SQ. The Maytag the cloths came out stiff and rough.

The only issue my wife has withe the new washer is she wanted a 2nd rinse option but we did not go the next level up in SQ for 2nd rinse and once she washed 2 loads in the machine she said the 2nd rinse is not needed as the cloths came out soap free.

We did keep the matching Maytag dryer as it has never had a issue in all the time we have had it except the silly controls on the near side, reach for something in the cabinet above it and if the machine is off we just turned it on. ONe thing is sure if I have one issue with the dryer I will replace it also with a new Speed Queen dryer.

Post# 594399 , Reply# 44   5/5/2012 at 11:20 (2,240 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)        

danmantn's profile picture
Speed Queen dryers are awesome as well! Congrats on your new Speed Queen!

Post# 594500 , Reply# 45   5/6/2012 at 00:55 (2,239 days old) by Mikeske (Washington State)        

My wife decided to really test her Speed Queen, She loaded 5 pair of my work pants (insulated jeans) 5 insulated jean shirts and 2 pair of regular blue jeans and 7 pocket tie shirts. They all came out clean. My wife was really happy has the old Maytag would never handle this load as everything would get wet and not clean and she would end up having to break up the load into 2 loads.

The SQ has really saved her a hour and half on just this load. Every load on the Maytag would take about a hour and 20 minutes and the load on the SQ was just under 40 minutes.

I did talk to my wife if she wanted a new dryer and she stated as long as the Maytag works and gets the cloths dry she is fine. She just could not see replacing the dryer as it works fine and nobody but her and I go into the laundry room, she simply can not see not getting the most out of the old dryer. She does not care if they do not match.

Post# 594535 , Reply# 46   5/6/2012 at 08:28 (2,239 days old) by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

nmassman44's profile picture
Mikeske, it sounds like you had the same Maytag set I had. The washer bearings went on mine plus it was recalled for a fire hazard. Your wife may want to rethink her stance on the dryer since it will give up the ghost a year from now...mine did just that. The SQ dryer will dry much faster than the Samsung Maytag and it's better built.

Post# 594767 , Reply# 47   5/7/2012 at 00:43 (2,238 days old) by Mikeske (Washington State)        

My wife is a Filipina and she has this thing that she will use something up and get every penny of use out of something before she will replace it. Our old Maytag/Samsung washer she was purely POed by the machine and kept using it until the 4th control panel in it finally fried itself, the problem was the washer would go through its cycle and when it got to one minute it would jump back to 8 minutes and then do a continuous loop between 1 minute to 8 minute until you shut it off. The prior replaced control panels all were replaced under the extended warranty all did the same thing, along with the rear bearing, 2 door boots and alot of service calls. Once the warranty expired I agreed to replace the entire machine.

The dryer we have has absolutely no problems and has been the most trouble free dryer we have ever had and that includes our prior Maytag dryer that lasted 26 years but I had to numeroous repairs on it through the years. The biggest was the blower that was made out of plastic and it would strip at the flange that attached to the motor.

Since this Maytag/Samsung dryer is doing a good job she will keep using it until it has the fatal event, I do suspect it will be the rear bearing as it does make a a high pitch noise I can hear but my wife has not heard yet. I have talked to her and I have let her know the instant the dryer breaks that I will not put a red cent into and I will replace it with a new Speed Queen dryer. she has agreed but the Maytag has to break first.

Post# 594807 , Reply# 48   5/7/2012 at 07:50 (2,238 days old) by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

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Well my Maytag Samsung dryer motor went out exactly a year after we got rid of the washer. My washer did that same thing adding time in a loop and balancing issues OMG I wanted to kill it. Then the bearings were going and I would get te dreaded T1 code.
The dryer in my opinion wasn't efficient and would only check the load twice for dryness. At least mine did that. I have been reading about the drum seams letting go too...but if she wants to run t in the ground then do it, but when it dies it goes out in a very big way.

Post# 594884 , Reply# 49   5/7/2012 at 14:56 (2,237 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)        

danmantn's profile picture
You will love the dryer. It's a quiet warrior; understated, but I really appreciate the simplicity of mine. I recommend the TOL, of course. :)

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