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Thread Number: 40529
At What Temp Do You Set Your AC?
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Post# 599578   5/29/2012 at 03:03 (357 days old) by Launderess (La Pomme Grande)          
 
 
   

launderess's profile picture
Well summer finally arrived this weekend to NYC. Nothing really bad just mid to high 70's with lots of humidity. Perfect chance to fire up the new Friedrich AC and put it throught it's paces.

This is our first AC with electronic controls and despite initial misgivings am finding one rather likes the system.

Usually set the AC at either 70F or 75F using the "Money Saver" and "Smart Fan" options. This seems to give perfect results.





Post# 599581 , Reply# 1   5/29/2012 at 03:58 (357 days old) by dj-gabriele (Bologna (ITALY))          
 
 
   
26°C

anything lower than that and our bills will sky-rocket, plus when there are 40°C outside there is plenty of cooling at that temperature.

A/C is already on and will be turned off in October.

The machine that serves the night-part of the house is a DeLonghi three split smart inverter so once the temperature is set, everything is decided by the main unit (speed, cooling capacity, filter cleaning, etc.)
In the day-part of the house there are separate el-cheapo split machines for each room and those are turned on and off according to our presence there.


Post# 599582 , Reply# 2   5/29/2012 at 04:30 (357 days old) by jerrod6 (Philadelphia Pa. USA)          
 
 
   

Early  summer heat.   I think it was 91F Sunday and I have the AC on.

 

For AC I have two temp settings:

 

From  8 AM to 9 PM it is set at 78F.  If I get too hot I start taking clothes off.  From 9 PM to 8 AM the next morning it is set to 76F which lets me sleep a bit cooler.

 

What operational differences occur when using Money saver and smart fan?


Post# 599585 , Reply# 3   5/29/2012 at 04:55 (356 days old) by westie2 (Siloam Springs, Arkansas)          
 
 
   

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We have central A/C and keep it set at 76 to 78 and run the ceiling fans and small fans to stir the air around.  Temp got up to 92 here yesterday.  We have found that keeping the same tgem in the house is better that letting it go up during th day and then backdown.  With our heat have it go lower during the day while at work then back up before we arrive back home.  Gas heat and electric cooling.


Post# 599588 , Reply# 4   5/29/2012 at 05:11 (356 days old) by Frigilux (the open prairie of Minnesota)          
 
 
   

frigilux's profile picture
My name is Frigilux and I'm an air-conditioning addict. I keep the central air system at 72-73 degrees in the summer. I try to make up for this profligate behavior by keeping the house at 64 degrees all winter (natural gas forced air heating). I hate, hate, hate heat and humidity; we have plenty of both in southern Minnesota.

Post# 599589 , Reply# 5   5/29/2012 at 05:22 (356 days old) by appnut (TX)          
 
 
   
Jerrod06 & I cut from the same cloth with differences

appnut's profile picture
For AC I have three temp settings:



From 8 AM to 5 PM (work day) it is set at 86. From 5p to 10 p it is set at 78F. If I get too hot I start taking clothes off if they aren't off already. From 10 PM to 8 AM the next morning it is set to 74F which lets me sleep a bit cooler.


Post# 599592 , Reply# 6   5/29/2012 at 06:17 (356 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)          
 
 
   
Solid 70 Here

mrb627's profile picture
I keep my AC on 70 during the warm months. We had a programmable thermostat on my last ac unit and that is what drove it to an early grave. So no more of that nonsense for me.

Malcolm


Post# 599599 , Reply# 7   5/29/2012 at 06:29 (356 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI )          
 
 
   

I'm with Eugene on this one, only difference being that we set our thermostat @ 68-70 degrees daytime in winter, and 63 degrees when we go to bed.  A/C is set @ 72-73 degrees.


Post# 599600 , Reply# 8   5/29/2012 at 06:34 (356 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)          
 
 
   

While sleeping during the day from mid shift-72-75 degrees.Otherwise thermostat set at 80.When it gets really hot-over 90 outside-don't set the thermostat no more than 20 degrees lower than outside.Residentual systems won't cool lower than that-without excessive energy use-and hard on the unit.so if it goes to 100 degrees outside-set the thermostat to 80.I am not a heat fan either-just use a portable heater in winter.My AC is terrible "heater" the heat pump mode of my Lennox isn't very good.

Post# 599616 , Reply# 9   5/29/2012 at 07:40 (356 days old) by toploader55 (Barnstable, Ma.)          
 
 
   
Friedrich Window Unit Here.

toploader55's profile picture
Set at 70 degrees during the day with "Money Saver" on, (Money Saver turns the Fan On and Off with the Compressor)

At Night, 68 degrees with constant fan. Easier to fall asleep with the constant noise of the fan than hearing the entire unit cycle on and off.

68 is preffered after working behind the line in the kitchen where the temperature can be in access of 100 + during July and August.


Post# 599618 , Reply# 10   5/29/2012 at 08:00 (356 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)          
 
 
   
DaveAMKrayoGuy's A/C Settigs: (Even Numbers Look The Bes

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The following temps cool the best & look good on the Thermy:

60 ... 65 ... 68 ... 70 ... 72 ... 74 ... 76 ... 78 ... 80 ... 82


-- Dave


Post# 599623 , Reply# 11   5/29/2012 at 08:20 (356 days old) by DADoES ( )          
 
 
   

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Thus far 78°F daytime, usually 76°F night. When the real summer heat hits, daytime goes up to 80°F or 81°F and night 77°F or 78°F (one end of the house runs about 2°F cooler due to fewer windows & slightly stronger airflow). Last bill was already $154 for 29 days 3/28 thru 4/25.


Post# 599627 , Reply# 12   5/29/2012 at 08:58 (356 days old) by franksdad (Greenville, South Carolina)          
 
 
   

franksdad's profile picture

AC 72 degrees constantly.  Heat is set at 68 degrees constantly. 


Post# 599629 , Reply# 13   5/29/2012 at 09:08 (356 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)          
 
 
   

whirlcool's profile picture
In the winter we have the heat set at 72F.

In the summer we have had it at 77 or 78. This new American Standard Central unit is really COLD! On our old system we had it set at 74 for best results. If we set this new system to that we would have icicles hanging in the house! And the thermostat is not off either. Single thermometers in the house indicate that 77 is really 77. I don't know what the air seems so colder than the old unit?


Post# 599630 , Reply# 14   5/29/2012 at 09:11 (356 days old) by wayupnorth (Maine - Vacationland )          
 
 
   

wayupnorth's profile picture
I have a Frigidaire window unit thats probably 25 years old but still works fine for the bedroom. Although there are not alot of hot humid days here, I have to have it on to sleep when its sticky. It is turned on in the evening on high, max cool and when its time to go to sleep, switched to low and the compressor cycles as needed. It is not very efficient, as I notice a spike in the power bill. But with what little it is used, it serves the purpose. At the rate our weather is going this year, I may not even have to install it.

Post# 599657 , Reply# 15   5/29/2012 at 11:32 (356 days old) by cehalstead (Charleston, WV)          
 
 
   

AC is set at 74 once I turn it on...and I leave it on day and night. Electric budget is $107 year round. My house has no attic, as it has a flat roof (mid 20th century modern), and hard to cool, but we have very humid summers here in Charleston (WV). I try to compensate in the winter by not setting the thermostat above 66. I don't like winter heat anyway, even with a humidifier. Gas budget for heat, cooking and water heating is $94 year round, so I guess compared to some other areas, my heating/cooling expenses are not that high. I do turn the heat down during the day when I'm at work, and at night, but leave the AC at a constant setting. (just as a sidenote.....we have already had a week of 90+ days...supposed to break with a storm tonight and be back to what May should be....). I guess I should also say that my heat/ac is a forced air gas system with a waterfall humidifier and the AC is a Heil unit, using the same duct work as the furnace. House was originally built with a floor furnace and ONE window unit.



This post was last edited 05/29/2012 at 15:22
Post# 599658 , Reply# 16   5/29/2012 at 11:52 (356 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs)          
 
 
   

twintubdexter's profile picture
When I lived in San Jose we kept the temp set at 72. Heaven forbid I would do that here in the Desert. This house has 2 central systems (some homes here have 4 or more) and I keep them at a comfortable 76 which is a big difference when the outside temperature is 110+. I have a separate thermostat for system #2 in my bedroom which I used to set at 74/75 when I "entertained" in there...it hasn't been set that low in years! Old age can be so cruel.

Post# 599666 , Reply# 17   5/29/2012 at 12:33 (356 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)          
 
 
   

Sunday got up to 92, and yesterday was 95, so turned on the AC the night before last. House was just too hot & humid to sleep, so got up about 3am to turn it on.

The Kenmore window unit here in the "hateful hovel" is presently set at 74. It's in the living room, so I must set it lower to get the bedroom to a comfortable temp. The thermometer in the B.R. is reading 78 at this time. Upstairs where bathroom is, is probably at least 10 degrees hotter at any given time.

Even with a dehumidifier in the basement, this house tends to be damp. I run the AC as much to dehumidify as to cool. The basement is leaky, and floor and walls are almost always wet, unless no rain for at least a month.


Post# 599671 , Reply# 18   5/29/2012 at 12:48 (356 days old) by dirtybuck (Springfield, MO)          
 
 
   
Wierd Thermostat On Mine

I live in a nine-story apartment building (4th floor here). When I started to read the comments on this topic, I got up and adjusted my thermostat to 72. It's now 73 in here and the a/c is off. It won't come on until it gets to 75, and then will cool down to 74-73. I still can't understand why it does this. But, I do the same thing as Appnut and try to wear as little as possible.

Our building is "controlled" (meaning I don't have the "luxury" to switch it to a/c or heater during Fall or Spring if either one is needed). Heat is usually turned on during mid-Ocotber, and a/c around early May (however, it was turned on earlier this year due to our mild Winter and warmer temps in late March, early April).

A friend of a friend lives in a house towards the central area of town, and refuses to touch his thermostat until the temp gets to 90 inside. At that point, he'll turn the thermostat to a teeth chattering 87. And although he keeps his windows open when it's 100+ outside, he swears that now and again he can feel a "cool breeze" cooling the place off (rolls eyes).


Post# 599696 , Reply# 19   5/29/2012 at 15:19 (356 days old) by Launderess (La Pomme Grande)          
 
 
   
Thing About AC & Really Hot/Humid Weather

launderess's profile picture
Is once the place is cooled, keep it that way rather than let things heat up all over again. That just makes more work for the AC which may be already straining under load, and have to contend with everyone elses in the area doing the same putting stress on the power grid.

During warmer/hot months I keep the heavy drapes in the living room closed during the late morning through early evening to keep out the mid-day heat and humidity. Same for most all the rooms actually.


Post# 599714 , Reply# 20   5/29/2012 at 16:24 (356 days old) by MaytagA710 (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada )          
 
 
   

maytaga710's profile picture
I set my A/C for 21 C (70F). Depending on the temperature, I will turn it on, or off, but leave the blower/fan on. Like today for instance, was very chilly for a end of May day in Nova Scotia, so I turned the A/C off, and got me some "free cooling" from the out doors. The air system in the house uses a HRV/Air Exchanger, which feeds in to the air handler. Mixing fresh air with recirculated air.

Post# 599725 , Reply# 21   5/29/2012 at 16:56 (356 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake and Burnsville Mn.)          
 
 
   
Thermostat temps

whirlykenmore78's profile picture

I like to run about 72-74 on A/C and 68 on heat.  Growing up in a house where air conditioning was a rare luxury I enjoy it every second it is reasonable to do so now.   

Nick  WK78


Post# 599727 , Reply# 22   5/29/2012 at 17:02 (356 days old) by DADoES ( )          
 
 
   

dadoes's profile picture
 
Outdoor temp 90°F.
Thermostat in LR (which includes kitchen & DR areas) currently at 78°F.
Master BR is 77°F.
Master bath (door was closed, south/west exposure, three 43"x43" glass block windows) unofficial (meaning a cheap wall-mount weather station) 80°F.
Office room (with two computers running and five windows, west exposure) immediately adjacent to LR is 82.9°F.
Spare BRs at other end of house reading 75°F.


Post# 599742 , Reply# 23   5/29/2012 at 18:23 (356 days old) by LordKenmore (WA)          
 
 
   

lordkenmore's profile picture
No AC here, so the maximum cooling power is: All windows open/all fans running!



Post# 599748 , Reply# 24   5/29/2012 at 18:56 (356 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA)          
 
 
   

peterh770's profile picture
78 plus I run a 40 qt dehumidifier...

Post# 599752 , Reply# 25   5/29/2012 at 19:09 (356 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )          
 
 
   
As long as I can pay the bill!

It will be on seventy, summer and winter, North Carolina is HOT and HUMID!!!

Post# 599789 , Reply# 26   5/29/2012 at 23:28 (356 days old) by Launderess (La Pomme Grande)          
 
 
   
What's With All The Water Inside?

launderess's profile picture
My old Friedrich "WallMaster" would send a steady trickle of water out of the grill on very humid days and or when it was "steamy" indoors. Still now and then you'd hear water sloshing about inside during operation and or when turning the unit on or off, however nothing like the new unit.

When passing outdoors you can hear water sloshing about inside the unit and certianly when turning the thing on or off you hear quite allot. The AC is installed and leveled properly but no water has come out of the back as of yet. If one looks around at units in other buildings the "drain kit" by Friedrich has been installed (you can tell by the hose sticking out of the grille), but our sales/service guy recommends against that in all but the most extreme circumstances.


Post# 599794 , Reply# 27   5/29/2012 at 23:53 (356 days old) by washernoob (Omaha Nebraska)          
 
 
   

washernoob's profile picture
You guys run it HOT HOT HOT....


61F all spring summer and fall. 68F in the winter.


Post# 599797 , Reply# 28   5/30/2012 at 00:06 (356 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))          
 
 
   

Some standalone (window) airs let the condenser fan splash into the outside drainage pan. Increases efficiency slightly. Water only ran out the bottom as an overflow. That "sloshing" sound is quite familiar.

Central drains get stopped up with algae. First notice you get is a puddle on the floor. Supposed to put a half cup of bleach in the line every season. This apartment doesn't bother. First summer it half flooded the bedroom.

We moved here in 1953. Residential central air was rare even in new houses, and almost exclusively water cooled with a tower in the back yard. We had window units in 1954. By 1957 the towers were disappearing in favor of the air cooled style we see today.

My body thermostat is spoilt by living in Hawaii 9 years. Below 71 my fingers start going numb. I set it for 72 in winter. Junk Honeywell thermo, have to jigger it every 10* the outside changes. Summer I run it manually, aim for 79-81.


Post# 599804 , Reply# 29   5/30/2012 at 00:42 (356 days old) by LordKenmore (WA)          
 
 
   
61F all spring summer and fall.

lordkenmore's profile picture
61?!? [Lord Kenmore shivers at the thought.] I keep it at about 60 in winter (electric forced air heat here, and it's not the easiest place to heat). I have spent the last 6 months DREAMING of JUST hitting 65.



Post# 599836 , Reply# 30   5/30/2012 at 06:33 (355 days old) by toploader55 (Barnstable, Ma.)          
 
 
   
@ Laundress...

toploader55's profile picture
As it was explained to me,

The unit retains water to help cool the Condensing Coil outside. There is a solid round ring attached to the fan on the outside part of the A/C. This is called the "slinger". It picks up the condensate water that the evaporator has removed from the inside of the room and sprays it over the condensor coil to help remove the heat from the refridgerant.

I too have a Friedrich and it will drip water only when the pan is full on the outside. I was told to leave the plug in for maximum operation. The drain kits are for the Transom Installations or Installations when you don't want the condesate water to be annoying such as dripping on passers by or creating puddles on sidewalks etc.

Hope this helps.


Post# 599891 , Reply# 31   5/30/2012 at 12:09 (355 days old) by rickr (as da hood turns...)          
 
 
   

rickr's profile picture
73 daytime when we are home, and 75 at night. We still use a small window unit in the bedroom at night, because the 2nd floor is always a bit warmer, and we like it cool to sleep.

The technicians that installed the new furnace and central air told us never vary the temp more than a couple of degrees on the a/c side. (temp set up for cooling, vs set down for heating) As it takes more energy to bring the temp and humidity back to where they were, if you "set up" the setting more than a couple degrees. On the heating side, the "set back" is about 5 degrees at night.


Post# 600036 , Reply# 32   5/31/2012 at 05:52 (354 days old) by retro-man (nashua,nh)          
 
 
   

I have had window units like you are mentioning with the water that hits the fan and goes over the coils to help with cooling. The idea is a fine one, but I have found that while this is good on one end it is bad for the case of the unit. I have seen them rust out within a 5 year period and then they put into the dumpster. I removed the plug on another one and let it drip. No noticable difference in cooling but that unit lasted more than 10 years with no rust. So I guess it is a give and take idea. I prefer for them to drain out than to rust out and replace.
Jon


Post# 600044 , Reply# 33   5/31/2012 at 06:53 (354 days old) by toploader55 (Barnstable, Ma.)          
 
 
   
Jon...

toploader55's profile picture
Exactly.

While the theory makes sense, Throwing water all over the place doesn't make sense.

My Grandfather had a 15,000 BTU Carrier from the late sixties. When he heard that water splashing around, he drained it and drilled a hole in the chassis for the condensate water to drain. It had of used R-22 becuase the air that came out of that unit could freeze your butt off,


Post# 600114 , Reply# 34   5/31/2012 at 13:29 (354 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs)          
 
 
   
Yikes!...

twintubdexter's profile picture
...61 degrees, I don't think my thermostats even go that low. I would freeze at 68 in the winter. It's supposed to it 113 today which is insane for May. Southern California Edison recently installed "smart meters" in my area...eliminates them paying for meter-readers and allows them to charge you an extra monthly fee, how nice. At least with these new meters I can use the computer to monitor how much power I've used to date as well as today's usage. You can also see the current amount of your bill which elminates "Summer Surprises." I set a budget amount and the computer alerts me when I've exceeded it, and they estimate your total bill for the month too. All this is just part of living in here in the Desert. It helps to remind yourself that Winter heating bills are around $20.00.

Post# 600123 , Reply# 35   5/31/2012 at 14:42 (354 days old) by Launderess (La Pomme Grande)          
 
 
   
Water Inside AC

launderess's profile picture
Usually take our wall units out each Fall for cleaning and such before covering the inside for the winter. Since this new AC's motor does not require oiling like the previous model that chore should be a bit easier. Still will peek at the insides for signs of rust.

Post# 600127 , Reply# 36   5/31/2012 at 14:59 (354 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)          
 
 
   

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A/C 71 summer

Heat 67 winter

Both electric.

I've tried to higher A/C settings, 74, 75, 76 and I can't stand it. Even with the ceiling fans on, it just feels too uncomfortable to me. I'm an A/C addict too. Perhaps I should move it to 72, since 72 is an even #? LOL


Post# 600130 , Reply# 37   5/31/2012 at 15:20 (354 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)          
 
 
   
I have a small bedroom window unit.....

and it is not marked in degrees, being analog. I have it set at "9", and low fan.


To me, air conditioning should be Arctic, or what's the point? However, beyond the coolness, the dehumidification is even more important to this Bear.




Lawrence/Maytagbear



Post# 600132 , Reply# 38   5/31/2012 at 15:28 (354 days old) by jerrod6 (Philadelphia Pa. USA)          
 
 
   

 71?  Mark,  I would die.  With my older previous unit I did run the temp at 73, then 74.  Now with this current system I can't stand anything less than 76 which is why I have it set at 76 after 9pm.  Interesting too because I have one CA unit that is cooling a 3 story house.  As you move upward the temperature gets warmer....until the Ac period turns on  then it seems to get all of the floors close in temperature.

 

My current unit has a  humidity removal step when it  first starts and now that I think about it, this may be the reason I can take higher temperatures and can't take lower ones anymore.  I think I read that if you reduce the humidity higher temps don't feel as bad.

 

Anyway no way I could take anything under 75F during the day for cooling(not to even mention I couldn't afford the bill) but for heating I have it at 67F during the day  and 65F at night, but during the day I have to wear 5 layers of shirts to be comfortable. Talk about winter bulk - ugh.

 

What type of electric heat do you have?


Post# 600143 , Reply# 39   5/31/2012 at 16:40 (354 days old) by DADoES ( )          
 
 
   

dadoes's profile picture
 
To me, air conditioning should be Arctic, or what's the point?
Point = avoiding power bills that require a 2nd mortgage!


Post# 600154 , Reply# 40   5/31/2012 at 18:11 (354 days old) by cuffs054 (GA)          
 
 
   

Arbilab,
Atlanta Gas Light Company, AGL, would put in a gas fired, water tower cooled, Arkla/Servel Sun Valley HVAC unit back in the mid 50's. If you bought one you got 2x/yr service for the life of the unit. My mom-in-laws was still running great into the early 1990's when AGL was struggling to find service men old enough to know how to service it. It cooled/heated great!


Post# 600160 , Reply# 41   5/31/2012 at 18:53 (354 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)          
 
 
   

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Yes. 71. The hottest I could probably stand would be 73. But once it's 74 or higher in the house, I can just tell and it makes me uncomfortable.

It's a TRANE XR11 heat pump (electric) that came with the house when it was built in 2004 and it's a single story home.

The PROBLEM I notice is that in a newer subdivision, (like mine) there aren't these huge tall trees around for shade because everything is still growing, so the FULL sun hits the house.

A also notice something else. Take a day where there is FULL sun, but say it's only 65 degrees outside, you would think that with the windows opened and it's 65 outside that the thermostat wouldn't go much above 65.........but the inside temp will stay in the mid-70s on a 65 degree day, and even with the windows open I sometimes feel like turning the air on because it's in the mid-70s in the house. Perhaps it's a combination of the sun and the electronic in the house or something. I don't know.


Post# 600163 , Reply# 42   5/31/2012 at 19:28 (354 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)          
 
 
   
PS

mark_wpduet's profile picture
I also notice that in the winter, keeping my heat set at 67 vs A/C set at 71, the power bill is always MUCH more in the winter than summer. So, even set as low as 67 in cold winter vs set at 71 on a hot summer, the winter power bill is always more. I supposed it costs more to heat than cool a home. The most my summer power bill has ever been is 150.00 if it's an extended period of HOT weather, but typically its more around 120. In winter, if extended cold, it can be in the 160's

Post# 600168 , Reply# 43   5/31/2012 at 19:55 (354 days old) by thomasortega (Brazil)          
 
 
   

23C
365 days a year


Post# 600170 , Reply# 44   5/31/2012 at 20:07 (354 days old) by kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)          
 
 
   

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In the winter I am at the mercy of a a one-thermostat 10 unit apartment building with gravity designed hot-water radiator heat. Night temp is usually 66-68 and daytime is generally 70-73. In the summer I have 3 small window units. Living room is usually kept between 75-78. Bedroom is 72-75 at night, in the galley kitchen an old, squeaky 5000 BTU window unit does whatever it can to keep daddy from sweating up a storm!

Post# 600174 , Reply# 45   5/31/2012 at 20:24 (354 days old) by wayupnorth (Maine - Vacationland )          
 
 
   

wayupnorth's profile picture
I guess everyone has quite a difference in their power costs. Here in Maine it is high, especially for running an a/c, but I am going to sleep comfortable regardless if it is humid. 85% of the state heat with oil which is $3.60 a gallon that most furnaces can use in an hour. Unfortunately, we need heat most of the time so we pay thru the nose to be comfortable. The way this year is going so far I may not have to put the a/c in but may need to schedule an oil delivery.

Post# 600180 , Reply# 46   5/31/2012 at 21:04 (354 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs)          
 
 
   

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Here in the Palm springs area I'm a little more fortunate than many of my neighbors. I have a traditional styled home built in 1999 with a sloped roof covered with concrete tiles. The attic area is huge with about 3 feet of insulation over the ceiling joists. The air ducts are thickly insulated as are the the 4, 10 foot skylight shafts. There are two wind turbines on the roof that draw air from side vents on the house. All of the 66 homes in my community were built with the standard insulated walls and double pane windows. My entire house has 9 foot ceilings which are fine for me. I think most people don't realize you air-condition (and heat) cubic feet, not square feet. Depending on the style of the house some of my neighbors have 12 foot ceilings in some rooms. I have friends who have a 5,000 sq foot home (for 2 people!) with 18 foot ceilings...hence the need for 4 central systems. The people on either side of me have Southwest/Pueblo styled homes with flat roofs which provide very little room for insulation. Their electric bills for Summer are usually much higher than mine even though they have smaller homes. They have 12 foot ceilings in the living areas too. I bought the right house for someone who's a cheap skate.

Post# 600193 , Reply# 47   5/31/2012 at 21:46 (354 days old) by henry200 (Saint Paul, MN)          
 
 
   

Central AC is at 78-80.  I don't so-much need it really cool as dry.  The dehumidifier in the basement runs from March to October, and with the furnace fan set on continuous the house is always comfortable.  Due to lots of mature trees, most of the house is heavily shaded, and it takes a long time before it heats up inside.  After a week of outdoor temps in the 70s-80s and 93 last Sunday, and even with windows open, the house was still about 64. 

 

During the heating season the thermostat is programmed for 67 when I get up in the morning, then cuts back to 60 when I leave for work, and down to 55 at night.  I have a fire in the woodstove every evening or on days when I'm home which heats the kitchen/sitting room comfortably.  My gas+electric bill is a little over $100 per month year-round on the budget plan. 


Post# 600195 , Reply# 48   5/31/2012 at 22:07 (354 days old) by spookiness (Alexandria VA)          
 
 
   
Question for Laundress

Could you please provide additional comments on your Friedrich? Size, model, etc.?
I am interested in one, but I would have to order it, and no local dealers in my area carry them. Is it quiet? I'm looking at the Chill series 5450 or 6000 btu models for a bedroom.

I have seen reviews of Frigidaires, and CR rates the appropriately sized model well, but I'm hesitant because I have a 12k btu Frigidaire in my living room and it is noisy as hell. I've read online review, and I've read CR ratings, and I just can't discern any consistent pattern. Some love, some hate, etc.

If this initiates a separate thread about window A/C comparison shopping, that would be great too :-) Thank you.


Post# 600333 , Reply# 49   6/1/2012 at 15:22 (353 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)          
 
 
   

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Wow!

It's June 1st, overcast, 4:30 pm and 57 degrees outside. Doors/windows, closed, blinds open, A/C set at 71, and it just kicked on and ran for 5 minutes! Crazy!


Post# 600337 , Reply# 50   6/1/2012 at 15:52 (353 days old) by Launderess (La Pomme Grande)          
 
 
   
Friedrich

launderess's profile picture
Cannot tell about their other types as only have owned "Wallmaster" units as they fit the wall sleeves.

Former unit was built around the mid-1980's or 1990's (cannot remember which) and once it had undergone a major cleaning (see my woes with that unit posted in the archives)worked a treat. It was near the last of the old heavy Amercian built, all metal, dial controlled, Freon using, things that did the job.

Newer model was snagged on a great deal and though electonic and is built with less metal than previous units seems to work just as well. This unit was built around 2008 and from what one can tell made in the USA.

Friedrich has a reputation as one of the better AC units in North American and certainly one of the last if not the only remaining to produce in the USA if not "North America" buy also having plants in Mexico. Either way streets ahead of some of the cheap Asian tat that barely lasts one season and doesn't offer much cooling strength for the money.

Latest issue of CR has ratings of AC's and IIRC they did't test many if any Freidrich units. Would have to go back and read the report to see what that was all about.


Post# 600408 , Reply# 51   6/1/2012 at 21:43 (353 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))          
 
 
   
Say Cuffs

I remember Arkla from their displays at Texas State Fair in the mid-50s. I was only 9-11 but back then kids could be on their own in public places so I wandered the entire acreage, not just the midway. Arkla gave me an animation flip book of Servel ice maker, had it until I left home. Wonder what those books go for on ebay?

Arkla was just a regional gas company. Arkansas and Louisiana, based in Shreveport. From what I can read now, Arkla was a nickname, not their stock market name. Their relationship to Servel is even foggier.

Other than the exhibition models I never saw one in real life.


Post# 600418 , Reply# 52   6/1/2012 at 23:16 (353 days old) by lovestowash (Atlanta)          
 
 
   
Wow!...such Frigid-aire...

lovestowash's profile picture

I have a mid-century, 2-level ranch that is drafty, yet very shaded in the Summer...

I had the HVAC replaced about 3 years ago...

Summer, when I'm not at home during the day, A/C stays at 80...and typically doesn't activate till late afternoon...

If I'm out of town, A/C stays at 82...

When home during the day, usually at 78...

Sleep time, it goes no lower than 76...works fine with a ceiling fan, and no pajamas, no cover...

Ceiling fans in every room...

Typically takes no more than an hour to go from low 80's to high 70's...

Winter, the therm stays at 55, with sweats on...

When company comes, I crank it up to possibly 65...

I have gas heat, and the lower the temp, the fewer sinus-related issues I have...

And, with aging, I don't sweat nearly as much as I used to...

 

George

 

 


Post# 600439 , Reply# 53   6/2/2012 at 01:08 (353 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)          
 
 
   
Jumping Ahead to DaveAMKrayoGuy's HEATING Settigs: ('

daveamkrayoguy's profile picture
Moving "ahead", the following temps HEAT the best & look good on the Thermy:

72 ... 74 ... 75 ... 76 ... 78 ... 80 ... 82 ... 84 ... 85

(Cold up here now!)

Actually, I never set my heat past 76, so the 78, through 85, really belong in my previous post!


-- Dave


Post# 600441 , Reply# 54   6/2/2012 at 01:23 (353 days old) by sudsmaster (Greater SF Bay Area)          
 
 
   

sudsmaster's profile picture
It doesn't matter what temp I set it to, because I never turn it on. At least not in the house.

Actually, have two Daewoo 5,000 BTU window units, but they've been in storage for the past couple of years. I'd rather have the window access instead of these things.

The temps here are moderate enough that A/C is needed only about two weeks a year. Normally I can ventilate the house during the evening/night, and then close it up in the morning, and it's still fairly cool when I get home. Lots of attic insulation and a ventilated roof helps.

In the car that has a temp readout, I find 72 is cool enough.

And the truth is, the 5,000 BTU Daewoo units really weren't up to cooling down the place, anyway.



Post# 600526 , Reply# 55   6/2/2012 at 14:31 (352 days old) by oldskool (Kansas City, MO)          
 
 
   
70 Most of the Time

Typically 70 works great; sometimes when not as warm outside and feels muggy in the house, maybe 67 or 68. Love it cool; don't mind paying the bill for comfort. Would rather cut a few other things from my budget if need be, to stay comfortable.

Post# 600528 , Reply# 56   6/2/2012 at 14:41 (352 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))          
 
 
   

I hope you eskimoes have some loaner parkas for thinner-skinned visitors.

Post# 600534 , Reply# 57   6/2/2012 at 14:51 (352 days old) by oldskool (Kansas City, MO)          
 
 
   
Funny

Actually, arbilab - I keep throws nearby all sitting areas for those who say they're freezing when they visit, along with extra blankets and quilts in all bedrooms just for the "thin blooded" visitors. And for those still not satisfied - I keep a few electric blankets around. LOL

John


Post# 600600 , Reply# 58   6/2/2012 at 18:07 (352 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))          
 
 
   

I hear my apartment neighbors running air when I'm running heat. I don't get it. If it's 55 outside and they want it 68 inside, why not open a window?

Even with higher summer rates here, air is cheaper than (electric) heat, by about half. I'd do better if I were wired the other way 'round.

What's rough on me is dressing for 100 outside and going in a restaurant or theater that's 70. Seems more like it cold than warm. Those places wouldn't spend the extra money otherwise.


Post# 600781 , Reply# 59   6/3/2012 at 15:55 (351 days old) by wayupnorth (Maine - Vacationland )          
 
 
   

wayupnorth's profile picture
It has rained 12 out of the last 14 days and we are now under a flood watch from NOAA. It barely made it to 50 today and has been raining heavily since yesterday and expected to continue thru Thursday. Please send some of the nice sunny warmer weather this way, I am so looking forward to running a/c.

Post# 600798 , Reply# 60   6/3/2012 at 18:07 (351 days old) by xraytech (S.W. Pennsylvania, near Pittsb)          
 
 
   

xraytech's profile picture

Here the central ac is set at a constant 72 degrees, but if it were up to me it would be at 68 degrees


Post# 600856 , Reply# 61   6/3/2012 at 22:24 (351 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))          
 
 
   
Wayup.....

I was thinking about a pipeline from north to south so we could split the difference. It's almost twice your temperature here.

Post# 600926 , Reply# 62   6/4/2012 at 10:14 (350 days old) by wayupnorth (Maine - Vacationland )          
 
 
   
@arbilab

wayupnorth's profile picture
I wished it was that simple. At least the torrential downpours have stopped here and we have been downgraded from a Flood Warning to a Watch but it is an even 50 degrees now. Its been so long, I have forgot what the sun looks like.

Post# 600975 , Reply# 63   6/4/2012 at 15:54 (350 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))          
 
 
   

We had record wet from Dec to Apr, then record dry since then. It's probably going to be 10% chance of cloud until October. I like warm but not SCORCH.

Post# 600979 , Reply# 64   6/4/2012 at 16:26 (350 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

I use the rule of sweat. If I'm sweating it's ON. If I'm not sweating it's OFF. Usually 73 does the trick. Depends on what I'm doing inside too. If I'm just watching t.v. I can stand warmer temp. If I'm cooking in the kitchen I like it cooler. All thermostats are different so I go by how I FEEL at the moment...


Post# 601099 , Reply# 65   6/5/2012 at 05:44 (349 days old) by retro-man (nashua,nh)          
 
 
   

Well for the last 3 or 4 days the thermostat is set for 70 degrees in the day and 67 degrees at night. This is running in the heat mode and not a/c. It is supposed to warm up again by saturday. Then we will be back to 73 during the day and 70 at night. Heat is cheaper than a/c here but I would rather have the warmth.
Jon


Post# 601398 , Reply# 66   6/6/2012 at 05:57 (348 days old) by chromacolor (Omaha)          
 
 
   

72 year round here. My house has little insulation... old windows.. and a poorly vented attic. Funny thing tho.. I had a new furnace and AC installed in 2006, and my utility bills went up, so either the new stuff ain't what it's cracked up to be, or utility costs have skyrocketed since then.
My grandpa was an old HVAC guy, and was one of the first homes in his area to have central AC.. (in the late 40's) It used water, so must have been a swamp cooler? I just remember, he kept it cold in that house.
The advice he always told people with central air, 1) Leave it set at one constant temp. It uses more energy if you turn it off or have too large a fluctuation in settings. 2) Leave fan on "On" not "Auto" as it prevents the air from freezing up, and is better for the unit. Also.. the obvious.. which is try not to block intake/out-take vents.


Post# 601498 , Reply# 67   6/6/2012 at 13:53 (348 days old) by jerrod6 (Philadelphia Pa. USA)          
 
 
   

My central Ac actually will use more electric if the setting is unchanged from the night to the day.  The trick with it is what your grandpa said and that is not have too large a fluctuation in settings.  I think this is going to vary depending on the construction of each house and how it faces the sun.  (If you have a house that is masonry-brick, stone, plaster walls, or concrete foundations or beams vs houses that are of wall board, vinyl siding and such and also how much solar gain you receive during the day)   If I have too large a setting difference it can take the AC 6 or 7 hours to recover from a day time temp setup setting, so during the day I have a smaller temp difference which translates into a faster recovery period and less run time.  The same holds true for heating; Tstat set very cold at night then it takes into the late morning before the house is warm again.

 

In my case I  find that leaving my fan run constantly causes the indoor humidity to increase during office cycles.  I can feel it, and it is reflected in readout of my  indoor weather station.  You may not notice this if you are running temperatures of 72, but when you get into the 77f to 78f degree range  the rise in humidity makes the house feel uncomfortable.


Post# 601521 , Reply# 68   6/6/2012 at 15:07 (348 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)          
 
 
   

I set the air conditioning,(when I need it) at 72-73 and the heat at 67. My house was built in 1897 and so the air doesn't do well upstairs but sure does a great job on the first floor. I have a 1983 GE carry cool and it ends up in my bedroom. One of these days that will have to be replaced but not before it stops running.

Post# 601606 , Reply# 69   6/6/2012 at 21:29 (348 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

What happens when you leave the fan setting to "ON". When the room reaches the desired temperature the thermostat turns the compressor off. The ice on the evaporator then begins to melt. The moisture from the evaporator then gets blown into the room causing the humidity to rise. When the thermostat fan is set to "AUTO"  the fan and compressor shut off at the same time. The ice on the evaporator melts and drains as it should. If there is too much ice accumulating on the evaporator,blocking the air flow while the compressor is on, there is a problem with the unit. Leaving the fan setting to "ON" is a work around for those who do not want to fix the unit properly. As most know humidity is huge on how you feel in hot weather.  Why blow it in unless your in a ultra dry climate? Photo is normal ice accumulation.


Post# 601608 , Reply# 70   6/6/2012 at 21:33 (348 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

Iced and blocked evaporator coil. This unit needs to be repaired. Yes running the fan would help melt this. All of the moisture would then be blown into your house causing the humidity to rise.


Post# 601610 , Reply# 71   6/6/2012 at 21:37 (348 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

Oh yeah... remember to change that air filter often. You don't want this blockage...


Post# 601627 , Reply# 72   6/6/2012 at 22:04 (348 days old) by dadoes ( )          
 
 
   

dadoes's profile picture
 
The evaporator of an air conditioner collects/condenses moisture (like a glass holding an iced drink on a hot/humid day) but it does not (should not) ice- or frost-over like a refrigerator or freezer.  If it does, then there's insufficient airflow.

The blower running continuously will pick up residual moisture that remains after the compressor cycles off and the evaporator temp rises above the dewpoint (thus no longer condensing moisture), carrying it into the room and slightly raising the humidity level.  Auto-fan gives better humidity control.

Auto-fan on my grandmother's Friedrich window unit results in noticeably better humidity control ... and the temperature swing between compressor cut-in and cut-out is wider (to the point of discomfort) on continuous fan with the thermostat anticipator heater disengaged.

Central systems also have an anticipator heater on the thermostat, and per my experience it also seems to disengage on continuous fan.  Well, older thermostats (mercury bulb or bi-metal) had anticipator heaters.  Electronic thermostats anticipate ... electronically.


Post# 601634 , Reply# 73   6/6/2012 at 22:23 (348 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

Dadeos you make a good point about the air flow factor. I have heard of some people adjusting the fan speed on the unit to reduce noise. I can see where this would make the unit start to build ice...


Post# 601641 , Reply# 74   6/6/2012 at 23:29 (348 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs)          
 
 
   
air conditioning and ceiling fans

twintubdexter's profile picture
What is everyone's feeling about using ceiling fans along with air conditioning? I realize you get more even room temperatures but I tend to think blowing warm air down from a high ceiling causes the air to run more frequently. It also circulates warm air from around windows. When I'm on the floor playing with my dogs (and sometimes a guest or two) it seems to be the coolest place in the house.

Post# 601644 , Reply# 75   6/6/2012 at 23:48 (348 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

True... heat rises.  I do like fans though.. I like the feeling of moving air. When the air is still I feel like I'm in a tin can.Yell


Post# 601651 , Reply# 76   6/7/2012 at 00:24 (348 days old) by alr2903 (Memphis Tennessee)          
 
 
   

alr2903's profile picture

72 summer,  68 winter,  We have 2 central units and 2 window units.  Of course we keep it the way we want it, in the rooms we are actually in. Our old house is fairly tight but also enough interior doors to  manually "Zone", without too much thermostat finagling. alr


Post# 601737 , Reply# 77   6/7/2012 at 11:43 (347 days old) by sudsmaster (Greater SF Bay Area)          
 
 
   

sudsmaster's profile picture
The master bed/bath in my home was added on back in the 60's or 70's, long before I bought it. It's south facing and has the tallest part of the crawl space. And the heating ducts are bit undersized. As a result it tends to get hotter in summer and colder in winter than the rest of the house. Not a lot, just a few degrees, but noticeable.

I've been considering getting one of the portable A/C units that features a heat pump as well, so it could be used year-round in the master bedroom, and not block up much of a window. So far, however, I haven't found one with a dual hose setup, which would be the most efficient way to go, I think.


Post# 601765 , Reply# 78   6/7/2012 at 14:06 (347 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

@sudsmaster. My first thought is that the duct work is not undersized but leaking. Very common for duct work this old. Half the air just blowing in the attic or basement not reaching the intended room. Since I'm not one for "work arounds" my first question would be could you have the duct work repaired or resized for the same amount $600.00 as the portable dual hose air conditioner? Might be fun to get an estamate and see how that plays out. Your energy costs would go down and you would not have to deal with the portable unit. My second thought is if you have to go to an additional unit a window unit is a much better performer. Much quieter too. Third thought dual hose units are hard to find. I was unable to find one in any store and ended up having to order one from Amazon. I purchased a Whynter 14,000 btu A/C Heater as a last resort. Window units are not allowed in my apartment complex. The first unit that was sent out was defective and would not turn on. Had to send it back. Big hassel! The replacement unit works fine and does a good job. Hooking up the hoses is a hassle and not the best design. This unit is noisy! I wear head phones to watch t.v.  Consider this in your bedroom when sleeping.  Good luck and keep us posted on how the journey goes...Smile


Post# 601766 , Reply# 79   6/7/2012 at 14:07 (347 days old) by Spankomatic (Ukiah,CA)          
 
 
   

spankomatic's profile picture

Hoses shown...


Post# 604450 , Reply# 80   6/18/2012 at 11:00 (336 days old) by Davey7 (Chicago)          
 
 
   

My parents have a Penguino which they seem to like.

When did gas central ac fade out? My best friend looked at a house which still had it a couple of years ago. We have fairly cheap gas in our area, so it might have been economical, if hard to repair.


Post# 604487 , Reply# 81   6/18/2012 at 12:02 (336 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady- Birthplace of Elec-Trak & Lucalox )          
 
1
   
Mine is always

jetcone's profile picture
set to "wicked cool"!

That way there is no dispute between me and the dog!


Post# 604498 , Reply# 82   6/18/2012 at 12:39 (336 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)          
 
 
   
I'm about 3 weeks late to this thread... but here goes..

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

Before I moved my dad up into the house (he was in his own room downstairs), I set the programmable T-stat (A/C) for 80, daytime (while at work), 78 after getting home and 75 at night so I can sleep.   If the outside temp is in the high 80's - low 90's range, the temp inside the house is just reaching 80 about or just after the time I get home from work.   Heat in the winter I would set it for 58 (basically off) while at work and 65 while home.

 

If I wasn't trying to keep the cooling costs down I'd probably keep the A/C set for 70-72 while I'm home and 68 or so at night.

 

But now with dad in the house all day, when the A/C is on, it's at 78 daytime / 75 night.   During the winter I keep it at 69 degrees during the day (I'm sure dad would prefer 75) and 60 at night.    

 

Kevin








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