Thread Number: 40670
Kitchenaid KDS-20 wash impeller stuck on shaft 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 601582   6/6/2012 at 19:25 (4,334 days old) by atx ()        

My trusty old Kitchenaid KDS-20 dishwasher isn't draining properly, leaving water in the bottom of the tub. I removed the drain line from the dishwasher and the garbage disposal and blew through it, so it's not clogged. I removed the drain solenoid valve, and it is free of obstructions. It also snaps open smartly when the timer applies power to it. I removed the coarse and fine filters inside the tub and cleaned them. So, I'm assuming I need a new drain impeller. However, the wash impeller is stuck on the shaft, so I can't remove the wash pump housing to get to the drain impeller. I tried gently prying on the wash impeller, but cracked a tiny piece of it, so I need to find a gentler way to break it free of what looks like a rusty corrosion product around the shaft. Any ideas?




Post# 601584 , Reply# 1   6/6/2012 at 19:42 (4,334 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))        
You are going to need

 whirlykenmore78's profile picture
The advice of our Stevet for sure. he is the resident expert on all things Hobart. John/Combo52 should know as well. Good luck
WK78

Post# 601593 , Reply# 2   6/6/2012 at 20:20 (4,334 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
KA DW Stuck Wash Impeller

 combo52's profile picture

Since the motor shaft is SS on this DW the Impeller usually doesn't get stuck badly, after you remove the retaining screw if you squirt in a little penetrating oil in the hole it will usually pull off with minimal prying. Since it sounds like it wants to break you will need to replace it anyway so I would go ahead and pry it off and replace the Wash Impeller. You will probably find that the drain impeller has broken veins on it and if so you need to replace it and the water seal. This was a common problem with the 18-20 KA DW pumps.
Post# 601720 , Reply# 3   6/7/2012 at 09:01 (4,334 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Parts Needed

 I figured I would respond here instead of your email in case others need part numbers for the items you mentioned..

Like John said, the wash impeller needs to be replaced since you broke part of it so here you go.

These are Hobart part numbers and prices. You would have to see if they can still be gotten from whirlpool. The shaft seal and drain impeller kit is a Hobart part number and is beefier than the original parts used on these machines and will pump out more water faster than the original. Like lots more!

The shaft seal kit which incldues the stationary and rotating seal and drain impeller is 435102 and lists for 58.05

the wash pump impeller is 241053 which lists for 12.75
and you will need 67500-30 oring min. qty is 5 and they are .95 each.

You can get them at any Hobart office.

If you need any breakdowns of it, I will send them to you.
The service manual will be sent to your email address in a few minutes.

Post# 601782 , Reply# 4   6/7/2012 at 15:36 (4,333 days old) by atx ()        
Couple of hammers, couple of punches, couple of chisels...

 I hammered a two-inch-wide chisel under the wash pump impeller, which snapped the wash pump impeller off its integrally molded shaft collar. I tapped on the shaft collar using a small punch, and it moved downward slightly, so its grip on the shaft wasn't impossibly tight, but I needed it to come upward and off the shaft, not downward. I grabbed the shaft collar with water pump (adjustable) pliers and about a third of it broke off and came off the shaft. I did the same with the remnant of the shaft collar and eventually got all of the bits of the wash pump impeller off the shaft.

One of the vanes of the drain impeller was broken off in two large pieces that were blocking the drain pump outlet. The other vanes looked well worn.

I placed an order for indicated parts, including the o-ring, from the local Hobart office, so I'm looking forward to much-improved performance with the new parts.

Thank you, Steve, for all of your help keeping our old KDS-20 going. Ironically, we replaced it ten years ago, but the new so-called Kitchenaid went through so many parts under warranty (often the same part multiple times) that, when the warranty expired, so did the dishwasher. At that point, I hauled the KDS-20 back into the house, soaked its inlet valve screen in vinegar overnight to remove the mineral deposits, and it has worked flawlessly for the last several years. It's just so dependable compared to new dishwashers that I plan on keeping it going indefinitely. Thanks again!

Post# 601783 , Reply# 5   6/7/2012 at 15:51 (4,333 days old) by atx ()        
Thanks, John.

 Thanks, John, too. I tried Kroil penetrating oil yesterday, and couple of drops more today, but the wash pump impeller remained stuck (until the hammer, chisel, and pliers intervened). I assume some chlorine-based agent had been used in the machine at some time, with the chlorine attacking the passivation layer that normally protects the surface of stainless steel, resulting in a thin rust-like layer between the shaft and the impeller. I'll probably put some silicone grease on the shaft before I install the new impellers to prevent capillary wicking of water into the microscopic gaps between the shaft and the impellers.


Post# 860878 , Reply# 6   1/9/2016 at 12:15 (3,022 days old) by farmerbill ()        
having exactly the same problem in 2016!

 I have the KDS-20 as well, a very trustworthy old workhorse. I was having the same draining issues, and ran into she same issue of having the wash impeller stuck on the shaft, making it hard to reach the parts below. I assume from the same troubleshooting that the drain impeller is jammed and/or broken. I am planning on ordering the same parts as listed above from Hobart and attempting the repair. Can someone direct me to the repair manual for the KDS-20?

Thanks for the helpful thread, five years ago!




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