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Thread Number: 40925
GE dryer problem |
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| Post# 605523 , Reply# 1 6/22/2012 at 09:30 (4,322 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass) | ||
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panel 
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Post# 605524 , Reply# 2 6/22/2012 at 09:35 (4,322 days old) by turquoisedude  (.) |
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 Chuck, you'll have to pop the lid off the dryer to get a good look at the door switch. It's pretty easy to do - there should be four (IIRC) screws on the underside of the front of the top panel which are visible when you open the door. Undo them and the top will lift off - just be careful of the wiring harness going to the control panel!!
Can't help but wonder if the start button itself might a problem, too... but definitely start with the door switch.
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Post# 605552 , Reply# 3 6/22/2012 at 10:14 (4,322 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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And make sure it's unplugged during the disassembly until you are ready to test something especially if there is a possibility of a loose wire. We don't want you getting your hair frizzed at Shocking Styles or Full Current Coiffures. | ||
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Post# 605734 , Reply# 4 6/23/2012 at 05:25 (4,321 days old) by retro-man (- boston,ma) |
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Hey Guys, If you want or need another dryer I have one sitting in my garage. Its a 1984 or so GE dryer. Almond in color with pushbottons. Everything is working fine and its yours for the taking. Cabinet and drum are in perfect shape. I believe it was tol. Just give me a shout. Jon | ||
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Post# 605735 , Reply# 5 6/23/2012 at 05:29 (4,321 days old) by kenmore58 (Rhode Island) |
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Post# 605762 , Reply# 7 6/23/2012 at 09:29 (4,321 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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 Chuck,
You've got some wiring or a switch that is all Fung-Wahed. Could be that one of the wires to the starter switch is grounding. The good news is that it's usually an easy fix (the wiring on these dryers is pretty straightforward) and also, I just saw a bunch of those switch banks for sale on eBay. I'll try and find my Electrical Schematic for that model (I have the same one) and where I saw those switches. The dryer opens by taking off 4 screws under the front edge of the cabinet. You'll need to open the door to get at them; and yes, what Tom said, do unplug it before you start to work on it. 220v is a nasty shock. | ||
| Post# 605765 , Reply# 8 6/23/2012 at 09:51 (4,321 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass) | ||
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OK, so I opened her up this morning (yes, Paul, 4 screws!). The red wire goes to the door light. The other two are, I assume to cut power to the motor when the door is open. I put a meter across them and got no continuity at all whether the switch was in or out. So, am I correct in assuming the switch is bad?? 
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| Post# 605766 , Reply# 9 6/23/2012 at 09:54 (4,321 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass) | ||
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BTW Tom, Ken... yes, I did kill the breaker before doing this! 220- been there, done that, don't need to do it again. Bzzzzt! Jon- thanks very much! We're in "fix-it" mode but will let you know if we change-over to "get-rid-of-it" mode. | ||
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Post# 605799 , Reply# 10 6/23/2012 at 12:43 (4,321 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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Post# 607893 , Reply# 12 7/3/2012 at 08:15 (4,311 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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