GE dryer problem

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Thread Number: 40925
GE dryer problem

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Post# 605522 6/22/2012 at 09:30 (362 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)
So, it's been working just fine for years (it was a transfer station rescue). The only thing was that the dryer would start as soon as the door was closed and the dial moved (didn't have to press the push to start button). All of a sudden she won't start up. When the dial is turned the controls light as usual. When the door is open, the light in the door does not come on. I fiddled with the door switch and it came on for me once. When the door is shut, the dryer doesn't move at all. My thoughts are that it's something in the door switch? Maybe a wire off or something? What do you think, and what's the easiest way to access the back side of the switch if that's a good possibility? Thanks, Chuck

Post# 605523 , Reply# 1 6/22/2012 at 09:30 (362 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)
panel

Post# 605524 , Reply# 2 6/22/2012 at 09:35 (362 days old) by turquoisedude (Ogden & Montreal, Canada)
Chuck, you'll have to pop the lid off the dryer to get a good look at the door switch. It's pretty easy to do - there should be four (IIRC) screws on the underside of the front of the top panel which are visible when you open the door. Undo them and the top will lift off - just be careful of the wiring harness going to the control panel!! Can't help but wonder if the start button itself might a problem, too... but definitely start with the door switch.

Post# 605552 , Reply# 3 6/22/2012 at 10:14 (362 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)
And make sure it's unplugged during the disassembly until you are ready to test something especially if there is a possibility of a loose wire. We don't want you getting your hair frizzed at Shocking Styles or Full Current Coiffures.

Post# 605734 , Reply# 4 6/23/2012 at 05:25 (362 days old) by retro-man (nashua,nh)
Hey Guys, If you want or need another dryer I have one sitting in my garage. Its a 1984 or so GE dryer. Almond in color with pushbottons. Everything is working fine and its yours for the taking. Cabinet and drum are in perfect shape. I believe it was tol. Just give me a shout. Jon

Post# 605735 , Reply# 5 6/23/2012 at 05:29 (362 days old) by kenmore58 (Rhode Island)
Oh, for God's sake, the dryer was for free (I know, I helped haul it out of the transfer station). As Andy said to Aunt Bee, "CALL THE MAN"!!!!!!! Ron

Post# 605760 , Reply# 6 6/23/2012 at 09:25 (361 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)
Um, excuse me teacher, but don't those exclamation points go inside the closing quotation mark? I know you weren't just standing up there for your health!!! :-) Yes, I remember you guys bringing that home and ripping out the perfectly good 1970's dryer (that would probably still be working), but You-Know-Who had to have the lighted (lit?) panel!! Chuck

Post# 605762 , Reply# 7 6/23/2012 at 09:29 (361 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)
Chuck, You've got some wiring or a switch that is all Fung-Wahed. Could be that one of the wires to the starter switch is grounding. The good news is that it's usually an easy fix (the wiring on these dryers is pretty straightforward) and also, I just saw a bunch of those switch banks for sale on eBay. I'll try and find my Electrical Schematic for that model (I have the same one) and where I saw those switches. The dryer opens by taking off 4 screws under the front edge of the cabinet. You'll need to open the door to get at them; and yes, what Tom said, do unplug it before you start to work on it. 220v is a nasty shock.

Post# 605765 , Reply# 8 6/23/2012 at 09:51 (361 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)
OK, so I opened her up this morning (yes, Paul, 4 screws!). The red wire goes to the door light. The other two are, I assume to cut power to the motor when the door is open. I put a meter across them and got no continuity at all whether the switch was in or out. So, am I correct in assuming the switch is bad??

Post# 605766 , Reply# 9 6/23/2012 at 09:54 (361 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)
BTW Tom, Ken... yes, I did kill the breaker before doing this! 220- been there, done that, don't need to do it again. Bzzzzt! Jon- thanks very much! We're in "fix-it" mode but will let you know if we change-over to "get-rid-of-it" mode.

Post# 605799 , Reply# 10 6/23/2012 at 12:43 (361 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)
If that switch is indeed the problem, you're in luck. There are tons of them available on eBay. Try PFE sales. When the switch is "in", power continues to the motor and other relays. When the switch is "out" all power is interrupted except what goes to the drum light.

Post# 605801 , Reply# 11 6/23/2012 at 12:54 (361 days old) by perc-o-prince (Southboro, Mass)
Thanks, Ken. And, I DID see your little addition to the warning! You been talkin' to Rich?? Actully, I came in to post the success and that's when I saw the diagram. It was an easy fix. I was thinkin' that if it were just the door switch, I might be able to find a quick replacement. So when I took it out and looked it over, I saw that it looked like it could be disassembled. Lo and behold it was. There was a piece of bridging copper in there that would make the contact between the two terminals when the switch was in. It was a little bent in from years of use and not making contact on one side. I gently bent it out a little, carefulle reassembled it, tested it, then re-installed it. Works fine and we have a dryer again! Ken- you wouldn't have a part number for that door switch, would you? It failed once so I know that little bridging piece is weakened and I'd like to replace it. I didn't think to get the part number off of it before I put it all back together, but it's not a big deal to get it out again if I need to (after shutting the breaker off again!). Could it be the WE4X197 I see on eBay? Chuck

Post# 607893 , Reply# 12 7/3/2012 at 08:15 (351 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)
One of these is coming your way. Be patient, grasshopper. Or is that hair-hopper?

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