Thread Number: 41105
Maytag N2lps question
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Post# 607776   7/2/2012 at 21:32 (4,286 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        

There is a Maytag wringer washer for sale on e-bay. It is close to where I live. Can you guys check it out and see what you think? The seller says it has an on and off switch but it does nothing. Was the switch added later?? Your thoughts please? I have never heard of this.He says the machine runs ok. Just wondering!
Thanks
Ps Its in CT









Post# 607782 , Reply# 1   7/2/2012 at 22:03 (4,286 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN)        

scoots's profile picture
Hi,

I assume you are refering to the Maytag N2LPS at auction attached to the link.

I'm sure the "switch" he's refering to is the black lever you can see in the second picture... it's a mechanical control that engauges the pump to drain the tub. I can see how it's mistaken for an electrical switch since they are labled "ON/OFF" but all Maytag Wringers simply plug in to activate the motor... no switch.

Now as to why it didn't work, a few possible reasons: If the tub's empty, then you're not going to get any water so the lever will appear not to be working. OR the pump/linkage are slightly out of adjustment and if everything else is good, it should be an easy fix. (the lever moves the pump which causes a friction wheel to drag against a pully.)

The other thing about these machines (Maytag Wringers) is that the late model units originally had a squeeze-bulb safety floor switch so that the wringers could be stopped instantly. We're decades down the road, so these rubber blub switches are usually no good and not available for replacement (and generally hated as a nusance). There is a fix that uses a screw to hold the linkage closed in the absense of the squeeze bulb, but since the ad specifically says the wringer still works, somebody may have already taken care of this for you.

The price of $100 is not a steal, but it's not unrealistic (I was just looking at a Craig's list for another N2 for $300, which is crazzzy). If you enjoy barganing, you might get it down lower, but frankly it does look like a good machine, and the price looks fair.

I have an NX (the stripped-down model) that I use for a daily driver and I've fallen in love with it. If you've never used a wringer be aware that they are time consuming, wet, and labor intensive devices. I am an AutoCAD draftsman, so I am already spending too much time in front of a computer, so wash day is how I get in some exercize.

Last thought: if you transport it home, REMOVE the wringer head and when you place the washer on its side, be sure the wringer support tube is on the TOP of the machine. If it's on the BOTTOM, oil will leak out and make a delux mess.

Let us know if you need any more info.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO scoots's LINK on eBay


Post# 607813 , Reply# 2   7/2/2012 at 23:15 (4,286 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
I guess If it's not

stan's profile picture
too far away, you could go and look for yourself. Find out what "on/off" he's talking about, and ask how he drained it! maybe he just lowered the hose?
If it is a little too far, then maybe call, or email him. Ask him to sent you a pic of the "switch"

I did see one once, that someone had added a toggle switch to. Made it a little easier to use.

Let us know what happens. I really like the Maytag N

Good Luck


Post# 608830 , Reply# 3   7/7/2012 at 08:18 (4,282 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        

Hi
Thanks so much for all the info! I am probably going to lose out on getting or even contacting the seller. I am using my webtv eail box to write this as my puter crashed, I cannot get in to ebay. (No java script) Unless one of you nice guys can e-mail the seller and have him e-mail me? spaulb@webtv.net
I never even thought he was talking about the pump switch on the side!


Post# 608831 , Reply# 4   7/7/2012 at 08:19 (4,282 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        

Hi
Thanks so much for all the info! I am probably going to lose out on getting or even contacting the seller. I am using my webtv email box to write this as my computer crashed, I cannot get in to ebay. (No java script) Unless one of you nice guys can e-mail the seller and have him e-mail me? spaulb@webtv.net
I never even thought he was talking about the pump switch on the side!


Post# 608932 , Reply# 5   7/7/2012 at 22:00 (4,281 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Looks like

stan's profile picture
the bidding ended, but no takers, so he still has it! Hurry LOL

Post# 609301 , Reply# 6   7/9/2012 at 21:17 (4,279 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        
maybe mine!

Hi all
90% sure this beauty is gonna be mine!!!!!
Waiting to see if in fact the pump works and he did not lower the hose to drain the machine. If so, is the pump a big deal to fix??
I have read about the wear of the pulley etc. I was able to use a neighbors computer to get in touch with him.
I am so excited I am wringing my hands and rapidly swishing!!!! (Couldn't resist)
No comments about the swishing ok guys??? LOL


Post# 609303 , Reply# 7   7/9/2012 at 22:06 (4,279 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        
Uh OH!!!!!

The seller says he lowered the hose to drain the machine.
I hope he is just not knowing the switch is the pump lever. I explained to him to put water in the machine and do not lower the hose but engage the pump lever.
If the pump is not working, is it an easy fix?? I need the pump to work as I have no floor drain.
I am sooooo upset!!! Maybe with you guys help I can fix this. I am mechanicly inclined and will offer him a lower price. What is usualy wrong if it does not pump?
Thanks!


Post# 609310 , Reply# 8   7/9/2012 at 23:21 (4,279 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Well.

stan's profile picture
If it's the same machine that was posted on Ebay, it was a pump model.

So the reason it may not work is, maybe the pump control arm is missing, or someone removed the pump, and was using it with a floor drain!
Or has been moved out of position to where it dose not engage the fly wheel ...Who knows til you look.

In any case, when you get there to look, you'll see if the pump is there, or not.
If it's there, and your able to plug it in, you'll hear the motor turn on. While running the motor, if you move the pump lever to the "on" position, you' hear it engage... If you able... while motor is running, move lever back on forth while looking under it's skirt...
You'll see what I mean! It's a very simple and efficient mechanism.

If the pump is missing you can still get a rebuilt pump from Phils Maytag for about $50.00.
If that's the case, maybe you could offer a little less? $25.00 ( half the cost of the pump)

Also make sure wringer works, pressure nob tightens rollers, and control lever operates rollers to work forward and reverse, and that wringer locks into position (if it dose not lock, it has a broken index slide. very easy fix, and Phil has them)
Bottom line you got to go look!

Now if you get it (hope so) don't get so excited, that you drive off forgetting the lid LOL

Let us know!!


Post# 609360 , Reply# 9   7/10/2012 at 08:06 (4,279 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        
Thanks guys!

I am going friday if things work out!
I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help!!!
Now he is saying the pump works, But like you said I won't know till I see it. I don't think he nows much about the machine. It does have the aluminum drain hook.
I will look at everything you suggested. Than I can report back and maybe you guys can help me date it and get it running good!!!


Post# 609444 , Reply# 10   7/10/2012 at 16:12 (4,278 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Sounds good

stan's profile picture
Those machines are pretty tough, not a lot to going wrong (uncomplicated)
You may find that everything works, as these were made to last, that's why there are so many of them still out there, and working.
Also Maytag did'nt stop making them til 1983 or so.

I noticed in the photo, that the rollers were separated, witch is what you are supposed to do when not in use, to avoid getting flat spots... so maybe it's been well cared for ?

Think you'll be fine

How are you going to move it? Can it be done on a truck in a standing position?


Post# 609499 , Reply# 11   7/10/2012 at 20:41 (4,278 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        

Thanks for more great hints, I will remove the wringer head and transport with a truck with the machine upright. I am wondring if this switch thing he says doesn't work is that rubber bulb thing that has been reworked. PS how do I open and close the wringer rollers? Is that what the lever on top is?

Post# 609519 , Reply# 12   7/10/2012 at 23:25 (4,278 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Yes!

stan's profile picture
Someone here, I'm sure has a copy of a Maytag wringer instruction book, that can be scanned for you, I have one. I can copy and send, if you want.
You really should have one, it explains better than I can tell you, But for now here's my instructions LOL

Push the release bar first, Hold down release bar, and turn lever on top counter clockwise, keep the lever in that position, and slide your hand between the rollers, and lift up about two inches, while holding up turn lever back, clock wise, and rest it down. this will keep the rollers from touching.
This is how it looks to be now, in the photo I saw.

To use the wringer, you slide you hand between rollers and with your thumb push the release bar, and turn lever clockwise a little, now you should be able to rest it back down where the rollers touch, at this point, if you were going to use it, you would press the bar and tighten turning the lever as far as it turns, clockwise. Then it's set, and will remain tight until you hit the release bar again.

As far as moving.. I don't think you should remove the wringer head unless you have to.
The other lever, that controls the forward/backward movement of the rollers (when machine is on) is sort of a gear shift. in that it has a neutral position, this allows the wringer head to turn 180 degrees freely.

However one of the positions of this lever is... well we'll just call it "park" in that it locks the wringer head in position, so it dose not turn freely. This is the position you want it it when your moving it in the truck. You sure don't want that thing turning freely while you picking up the machine and carrying it, it weighs about 40 lbs! It can move around, and hit you in the head if its not locked in position.
If you can't lock it in position, then the index slide is broken ( this is the little gear spring inside that i spoke of earlier) In witch case you will have to remove the wringer head, and transport separately... (should lift off, and out of the machine, the heavy part I mentioned)
As I mentioned before, don't worry, Phil has them, ( index slide) and it's a very easy install, but you will have to have in oder to lock the wringer in place while running clothes thru!
Often times this is broken, due to rough handling by the user!

Once you get it, and work with it a couple of times you'll see, it's not as complicated as it may sound!
Sorry if I made it seem that way. LOL

HTH
Stan


Post# 609706 , Reply# 13   7/11/2012 at 16:42 (4,277 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        

Thanks Stan
Great help. I will keep you posted. I hope I am not making a wasted long trip! But feel confident if I have a problem you guys can help me! He has lowered the price already!


Post# 609729 , Reply# 14   7/11/2012 at 18:53 (4,277 days old) by westie2 ()        

One more this is to get you a 3 foot piece of dowel rod  so you can lift out the clothes and flirp up to the wringer.  Save you catching you fingers in the wringer.  That or get clothes tongs.


Post# 609739 , Reply# 15   7/11/2012 at 19:48 (4,277 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hope to hear

stan's profile picture
you make out O.K on Friday.

Once you have it home...Yes we're here to help, as there are things you should know about filling, draining, how to position the wringer, what to be careful of going thru wringer. Also cleaning the sediment trap...
Be sure and look for that when your there, it's under the agitator... so agitator lifts off and sediment trap is under, that also lifts off and out, to be cleaned between loads) I'll try to put a pic up here a a little while so you'll see what I mean.
Again.. if it's missing Phil has them!!


Post# 609786 , Reply# 16   7/11/2012 at 23:56 (4,277 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN)        
Instruction Manual

scoots's profile picture
I already have a Maytag instruction manual scanned. Just drop me a line and I will send it to you (and anybody esle that needs one). It's from the early 60s, so the only thing missing relates to the wringer stop foot switch bulb.

Post# 609800 , Reply# 17   7/12/2012 at 01:06 (4,277 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
photo

stan's profile picture
Agitator and strainer

Post# 609801 , Reply# 18   7/12/2012 at 01:14 (4,277 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Opps

stan's profile picture
sorry for the up side down pic !

Post# 609837 , Reply# 19   7/12/2012 at 08:44 (4,277 days old) by franklynb (milwaukee, wi, usa)        
Maytag N2L Oil Change

I just got an N2L, and have a couple of questions:

* does anyone know the oil capacity? I drained it by removing
the cover over the agitator ball and spring; put it on its side,
and refilled it with mobil synthetic spindle oil, but I'm sure
that it should be filled to some "dipstick level" placed through
the wringer column. Hints?

* I greased the agitator driveshaft splines, and now the agitator
"floats" off the shaft when using 1/2 a tub of water. Perhaps I used
too much grease? There doesn't appear to be any sort of snap ring
that would lock it down. Its an aqua plastic agitator.

How do I stop this action?


Post# 609848 , Reply# 20   7/12/2012 at 10:58 (4,277 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Frank and Welcome to the forum

stan's profile picture
The "floating" is very common.
You need a stop ring ($3.00) part. I'm not clear on what you did with your "oil change" and not sure what agitator ball and spring you mean? You can remove the whole wringer head and add a little 80/90 gear lube, down the shaft, but this dose not reach the transmission to my knowledge.

Think you should get a hold of Phil at Phil's Maytag 607-869-2263 cell 315-246-5518 EST.
Many of us here have used him for parts and advice. He is very nice to talk with, and will have the stop ring you need. You can explain what you did with your oil ect
He'l be better to answer the question about that.


Stan


Post# 609862 , Reply# 21   7/12/2012 at 12:17 (4,277 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Hello Fellow Maytag Conventioneers

mickeyd's profile picture

Stan--your drain hose hook--it looks wider, shorter, and nicer than the original. Did you swap it out or what? Interesting.

 

Frank and Bill and Jocks, good luck on your new gems. You're gonna have a lot of fun. Wait till you hear the pumps roar and rumble, and marvel at how powerful they are.




This post was last edited 07/12/2012 at 12:50
Post# 609899 , Reply# 22   7/12/2012 at 15:34 (4,276 days old) by franklynb (milwaukee, wi, usa)        
N2L: Ball and Spring

Stan,

If you look at the side of the transmission, you will find an oval cover held by two screws.
In the middle is a serrated cap. I removed that cap after placing the machine on its side.

Under the cap is a preload arrangement for the agitator, which I suspect sets the reversing
torque on the agitator. There is a little clamping pawl that allows the radial position to be
set, held in place by one of the screw. You can feel it preloading a spring while you're tightenting
the cap. If you tighten it too much, the agitator stalls the drive motor. Not good!

If you pull this cap while the machine is still on its feet, all the oil drains out. Some oil had drained
out of the wringer receptacle, as I'd removed it for shipping and the machine was laid on its side.
I wanted to add an appropriate amount of gearbox oil; so i used light spindle oil that I keep in
stock for my milling machine gearbox. Seemed about the same visco. Since its synthetic, its
probably better than original. Its also $120 a gallon.

I called the Maytag hotline, but they couldn't tell me which/how much oil to use; or where to fill it. "we're
not technical. we can help you find a nice serviceperson."

Since it drained while transporting, there must be at least a vent hole between the wringer driveshaft and gearbox;
if not a downright lube or fill path! Since I don't yet own a service manual,
but was anxious to try the machine out, I added enough to make sure that the
gearbox would be bathed.

I had to use an o-ring to replace the cork seal under the adjustment cap. And the machine operates
a dandy! I cleaned the pump "while I was in there." It had accumulated a ton of lint that had
turned to starched rocks over the years of sitting.

hope this helps someone!

--frankb


Post# 609948 , Reply# 23   7/13/2012 at 00:33 (4,276 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Frank

stan's profile picture
Wow, you really went over and above! a little further and we'd have to call it a complete tare down LOL
And yes, the info shared, I'm sure will help someone!

And yes, there is a breather hole on top of the right angle drive between the "driveshaft and gearbox" it's hard to see it, but if you run your hand along, you'll feel it.

If Geoffdelp (member) comes along, or if you can find him here, and email him, he, I'm sure can answer you question about amount of oil it supposed to hold (he's in MN) and know a great deal about these machines.

If you don't catch up to him, service manual is available, Phil has these. You did so well, hardly sounds like you need one!

HTH


Michael, Thanks for noticing my "my drain hose" LOL


Post# 610033 , Reply# 24   7/13/2012 at 13:58 (4,276 days old) by jocks54 (Danbury Connecticut)        
GOT IT!!!!!! Yeah!!!!

Got my new baby this morning!!!
Not in bad shape. A few scratches on the wringer head . Light rusting at waistband. Casters are in good shape, no rusting. (No not me.... sillys the machine) It was a one owner machine. Was an estate clean out. Machine was kept in kitchen.
Got a few qustions but thanks to you guys I am feeling confident
First off:
Stan can you mail me a copy of the instuction book via snail mail? I do not have a printer.
Ok, So everything works but of course the agitator is (?) stuck on and there are coins under it. It probably should come off to clean the screen out. What is the small hole in the plastic agitator for? Removal hints please!!!!
The legs have some slight rust. Can I sand them smooth and repaint with spray Derusto?
Drain hose is cruddy outside what can I use to clean that and soften the rubber up?
Underneath is the usual dust and dirt but do I need to do any maintenace?
It will be used occasionally, so I know to seperate the rollers but should I let gravity empty the water out of the machine or keep some in it?
Thanks guys!
I am sure I will have more questions!
I did not forget the lid! But did not write the serial # down. It does have a 67 in it. The machine is in a friends basement now.
I am so excited!!!!


Post# 610095 , Reply# 25   7/13/2012 at 18:44 (4,275 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Jocks 54

stan's profile picture
I'll get it in the mail for you tomorrow, so you'll get maybe Thursday! (manual)

Post some pics, if your able!

Stan


Post# 610100 , Reply# 26   7/13/2012 at 19:36 (4,275 days old) by franklynb (milwaukee, wi, usa)        
Agitator Port

Here's a quick picture of the plug I pulled and used
as a temporary oil fill port. I'm sure there is an easier
way. It had the side journey of allowing me to tune the
agitator a little bit!

No doubt there are warnings in the service manual about pulling
such a stunt. On day 2 or the Maytag Tour, yet. Tsk!

--frankb


Post# 610125 , Reply# 27   7/13/2012 at 21:33 (4,275 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Funny you posted the pic

stan's profile picture
after I read your post, I had to go look at mine LOL
I didn't turn mine over, did it the lazy way, laid down with a flashlight!

I'm not sure there is an easier way to add, refill, or change the oil. Think you figured out the only way!

Thanks for posting the pic.

Did you locate the vent hole (breather) on the casing ?

What did you do to "tune the agitator" ? what was it doing, or not dong before? Tell Tell!


Post# 610186 , Reply# 28   7/14/2012 at 08:19 (4,275 days old) by franklynb (milwaukee, wi, usa)        
Maiden Voyage Startup Process

Stan,

When I picked up the machine, I ran it for 5 seconds or so, just to assure
that it still rotated.

In prep for the "maiden run", I:

1) removed the pump and cleared both ports; blew compressed air through it
to try and clear any debris. Once I figure out how to make/buy a new pump
gasket, I'd like to split its case and give it a good cleaning in a parts
washer.

2) Replaced the belt, which looked stretched a bit, and was moldy. A
simple hardware store item, 31" lg. x 1/2"V.

3) Pulled the serrated cap to take a look around. I cleared all the old cork,
and went searching for a 1-1/16" ID soft copper crush washer to replace it with.
I had to use a serrated jaw pipe wrench to tighten the cap back into place,
pulling it down snugly, but gently so that I didn't foul the teeth on the cap.

4) Inspected the drive wheel and set up the engagement mechanism for the pump,
ensuring that the drive wheel didn't slip, but wasn't overly tight.

5) Removed the hoses and checked for debris.

6) Put a little grease on the splines.


I started the motor, and the agitator transmission stalled. By trial and error,
I introduced a little backlash, releasing the cap a few degrees at a
time, until I could feel the agitator start to have a wee bit of radial
"dead zone", when turning it by hand.

I just figured its like any other worm drive transmission. They generally
have some means of adjusting the engagement between the gears along one
of the shafts. On most automotive or garden equipment
differentials, its done with shims to introduce around .002" to .005" of
'running clearance'.

At some point soon I'm going to figure out how to make a proper shim and seal
that replaces the old cork gasket. My o-ring choice was 26mm x 1.5mm thick,
which seems to work OK. I might have to hunt a soft crush washer down from a
hydraulic parts supplier. I think a Stat-O-Seal might even work. A simple
3/4? inch radius hook spanner can work as a cap adjustment tool with a
little grinding on its hook. Bicycle shop item.

Pictures, soon.

--frankb


Post# 610657 , Reply# 29   7/17/2012 at 01:16 (4,272 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Frank

stan's profile picture
Thanks for the reply. Good job!

So, after going this far would you say that is possible to change the oil by just removing cover ( the two bolts) with out turning the serrated cap (don't think mine needs tuning) and draining and refilling, with say 80/90 gear oil, and just replacing the cover? is there a gasket there, that would have to be replaced?

I ask because it's time for a new belt (still original to my knowledge) and thought "while I'm there"

Stan


Post# 611656 , Reply# 30   7/22/2012 at 22:30 (4,266 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Changed the belt today

stan's profile picture
(my E2LP)
but didn't mess with the serrated cover, or attempt a oil change.

I've gone over the service manual, over and over, with no indication in there, that the oil can be changed from this location??
(there were no instructions for changing the belt either??)

After changing the belt, I noticed the machine ran very quite! (why I changed it)
My concern though, is that it put me in mind, to pay attention the the motor temp! I thought it ran a little hot??
Dose anyone know if there is a place to oil the motor, service manual dose not mention. ( wish I had inspected when I had it loose!)
Anyone know how warn the motor runs, say on a warm day after a couple of loads?

May re post this as new question

Stan



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