This machine has run well for two years, I replaced the HotSurfaceIgnitor on day one, 2 years ago. Then yesterday, no heat. It's a Kenmore 1992 full sized gas dryer, WP Build, timer has "Auto Sense" Hi heat, AutoSense Lo, Timed, and air fluff, MOL or so model. No real moisture sensing, simply the "timer versus heat" cycling.

The HSI is intact, everyone I've ever replaced were visibly horrid, crumbling and 15 years old, this one gives me 0 resistance on my Ohm meter.

but here's what has me wondering what's up-------the connector, 2 wires, going from a harness at the gas valve directly to the igniter only gives me about 25.3V. Shouldn't I be getting 120?

It appropriately only gets voltage when a heat cycle is chosen, not on air fluff, that aspect is good. Where to look next? What to check next? It's a wonderful dryer, I can't imagine it is too rough a repair or too pricey.

I'll check voltage or resistance anywhere anyone tells me to, thanks in advance. I haven't yet checked any thermostats. Since the HSI doesn't heat up red hot, I am starting here.

The thermal fuse has 0 resistance, that's good. When I tested voltage at the igniter, it's 27V with the thermal fuse hooked up, it's 10V with both leads off the thermal fuse?????? Still the HSI does not even get warm, entirely room temp. Isn't this all supposed to be 120? Or is the gas valve section of the wiring a 24V system?

Model #110-97273100

Thank you two for advice, but still stumped here for now

I'll check that next, thanks, nice to hear from you. And the wet clothes in the dryer come from your Norge!

I also took the HSI over to my workbench, hooked it up to 120V, very red hot right away. So that works fine, it just ain't egtting 120V for some reason.

now to check the thermal cutout......

Dave------2 checks on that thermal cutout--------0 resistance, perfect conductivity. Then, with both leads off of it, I wired them to each other for a final check, plugged it back in, and still 27Volts at the HSI. So I am still stumped. It is entirely 120volts everywhere, that I have confirmed with testing the HSI on 120. Non-resettable thermal fuse seems fine, thermal cutout thermostat on the duct bulkhead seems fine, still only 27 volts at the HSI . HMMMM.....

It's almost bedtime, next I'll try my hand at deciphering the electrical schematic, not my forte, but seems next in line.

Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted--

Mark

someone pointed out that I flame a decent amount, it's my dryer that won't. True.

there is a pair of wires running across the floor of the cabinet to the entire flame/valve/hsi system. Two wires, no others anywhere else from the flame sensor or dual solenoid valve or HSI, it's just these 2. They get 118V even when it's in Air Fluff Mode.

Hi it could also be a bad motor centrifugal switch or timer contact or even a wiring fault, somewhat unlikely. You can easily check the timer with your ohm meter and it is easy to temporally jump the heat circuit at the motor CW for testing purposes.

I jumped the radiant sensor screwed onto the side of the flame cone, and the glow bar gets 120V and red hot. Whirlpool/Kenmore/Maytag item #338906. Sears Parts Direct wanted $35, but Ebay has one for $7.25

Thank you all, all I knew was the glow bar HSI.

Congratulations on finding the problem Mark, this repair exercise shows one of the pit falls of using a volt meter to diagnose electrical problems, sometimes you can do better by doing a few basic tests and keeping your eyes open to any possible clues as to the failure.

When you tested the voltage getting to the entire gas burner assembly you only were getting about 25 volts naturally leads one to believe the problem is in the dryers electrical system somewhere. But the meter does not place enough load on the dryers heat circuit to always get an accurate reading, this is when the old fashioned approach of using a 60 watt test light actually worked much better better as you would have taken a better look at the burner assembly when the light lit.

My suggestion that you have a dirty centrifugal switch or timer contact is probably true but it will never likely cause a problem because the ignitor draws more that 300 watts and will burn through any dirt, oil ? on the contacts each time the dryer is used.

I was in a home about a year ago looking at a customers old WP DW that would not fill reliability. When you advanced the timer through all the different fill periods of a full cycle you were lucky to get it to fill for even a few seconds. The kitchen had  had a bad problem with roaches in the recent past and I figured that the timer contacts may just be dirty and since a fill valve coil only draws 10 watts of power the voltage would not get through a dirty timer contact. I noticed a portable electric heater sitting in the corner of the kitchen, so I took the two wires off the inlet valve coil and plugged them on the male prongs of the heaters plug, turned on the heater and slowly turned the DWs timer through a cycle. I then reconnected the wires to the inlet valve and the DW filled perfectly and is still working today as I was back the other week to repair the customers ice maker and she commented that the 25 year old DW was still working great.

Guys---the right-priced Ebay sensor arrived, I had it installed in 3 minutes and the dryer heats up immediately, all is good again.

John---I like your trick for pulling full power thru old contacts, I'll keep it in my bag of tricks-----

Thanks

Mark