There are members here who feel the KUDS23 has a better pump and filter system than earlier models.  That machine will definitely give you more cycle options than the KDB21, which you may find helpful considering it will be tackling big jobs generated by a large family, and it will operate much more quietly.

I'd be suspicious of the seller's speculation about needing a gasket for the inlet or outlet, and suggest you ask them to elaborate or show you just where the leak is located.  If it needs a new pump seal, that's a much bigger job, and you may not find a repair service willing to deal with a machine of that age.  A KUDS23 would date back to the mid-90's or so.

Here's a picture and the link to the KUDS23, however it sure looks like that horizontal light says "Rinsed Only," which would make it pre-23 series, no?

Nice looking machine regardless, with the panel I like best.  I wish one of these would turn up around here.

Anyone know if this model has a calrod heater?

If not, crank up your water heater until 150F water is coming out of the kitchen faucet.

Personally, I immediately install a drain impeller and seal kit in every KitchenAid I get. This prevents motor bearing damage from a leaky seal down the road.

All KA DWs built after the 18s have water heating capabilities. So it may be risky and expensive with many children in the house to raise the water temp too much. I would add insulation to this DW when you install it and if used on the heavier cycles it should do a great job with a water temperature entering the machine somewhere between 120-130 degrees and the machine will last much longer at a slightly cooler temperatures.

No offense, but . . . ROFL!  If only it were that convenient. 

SteveT or other experts can advise if it's available through Hobart.  Believe it or not, the fact that you went for the older Hobart machine increases your chances of finding the seal.

So how did the test run go?  Inquiring minds (and we have a lot of those here) want to know!

This could be an issue with your vintage machine.  Phosphates were removed from dishwasher detergents across the board about two years ago or so, and spotting, filming, and generally poor cleaning results ensued across the country.  You can find institutional detergents that still have phosphates, but you'll have to look for such products somewhere besides the supermarket.  Your previous dishwasher could manage without phosphates because it ran so damned long.  Older machines were designed to get the job done quickly, but also presumed the detergent would contain phosphates.

If your water is soft enough, you may get away with phosphate-free detergent.  I've read here that people are having good luck with the "power ball" and packet/tablet types of detergents, but take a good look at them to make sure they'll fit in your dispenser.  Also, using a product like "Lemishine" (basically citric acid and available at Target) will help.   I'd recommend running a full cycle with Lemishine (with dishwasher empty) to clean the interior and other components before putting the machine into regular use.  But first, with tub door open flat -- and you won't be able to see it unless you stick your head inside the tub but you can just feel around with your fingers -- all along the bottom of the door there's a lip where funky greasy residue tends to accumulate.  Clean that stuff up and keep tabs on it going forward.

Any items with caked-on soil should be placed on the bottom rack tilted toward the center of the tub to give the 4-way Hydrosweep spray arm the best chance at getting them clean.

I'm not understanding where the "crud/rust" area is.  Can you be more specific?  Pictures would definitely help.

Also, in my previous post I wasn't referring to the door gaskets, I was directing you to the bottom of the door itself where there is no gasket, just an overlapping section that keeps the water inside the tub.  It's that overlapping lip at the bottom of the door that accumulates residue and should be wiped clean periodically.

Also, in my previous post I wasn't referring to the door gaskets, I was directing you to the bottom of the door itself where there is no gasket, just an overlapping section that keeps the water inside the tub. It's that overlapping lip at the bottom of the door that accumulates residue and should be wiped clean periodically.

Actually, some Kitchenaid models came with a lower door seal gasket. Both of my KDS-18's had one, but the 19 didn't.

No need to add anything to what Steve-the-Hobart-SME has stated above.

You can't get more simple and straight-forward than this with a KitchenAid dishwasher!

Interesting how the timer has an "Off" position between Rinse/Hold and Normal cycles.  Saved them a selector button and related wiring.  Truly unusual and the most BOL model offered, but still an entirely capable machine.

Congratulations Jen!  You should get many years of trouble-free service from your "new" KitchenAid!

P.S.

See you back here when your modern clothes washer fails.  ;-)

And Jen, for now you're running the tap at the sink until the water is at its hottest before starting the dishwasher, right?

Also, I don't know what the rest of your kitchen looks like, but are you aware that you can still get the stainless steel door and access panel inserts for your KDB21 through Sears parts?

I took the tap water temp and it is at 133 degrees but I can bump it up a notch.

Yeah, bump it up to at least 140F.

I found a night and day difference in cleaning from my old reverse rack Maytag by simply increasing the tap temp from 140F to 150F. This is the reason behind my 150F recommendation.

I only run the tap once before starting the machine.   Because my machine has automatic water heating, I don't bother running the tap before each subsequent fill.  The water stays hot enough to provide the machine with at least the minimum temperature required for the automatic heating system to bring it the rest of the way up to optimum wash temp.

That's one of the things that annoyed me about the Thundering Thermador's steam cycles.  It would take up to 45 minutes to complete the steaming sequence, and by that time the water in the pipes was such that it was like giving the dishes a cold shower after that steam bath.  A ridiculous gimmick on an over-all ridiculous excuse for a dishwasher.  It was beautiful on the outside, though.

My Hobart-inspired ISE Classic Supreme has been a delight to use after giving the TT the boot a year and a half ago, and of course it's infinitely quieter.  Almost anything would be.