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Thread Number: 42712
Older W/D recommendations? |
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| Post# 628415 9/29/2012 at 22:49 (4,225 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama) | ||
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| Post# 628445 , Reply# 1 9/30/2012 at 02:06 (4,225 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas) | ||
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Is your Whirlpool unit a belt drive or direct drive machine? What's wrong with it? It may not be that expensive to fix. | ||
| Post# 628529 , Reply# 2 9/30/2012 at 11:38 (4,224 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama) | ||
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Direct Drive
It's a direct drive with a rubber boot connecting the motor to the transmission. My husband says that he has replaced that boot several times but he's not sure if it was on this washer or the one before.
We bought a new Whirlpool five or six years ago that I loved--one step down from the top of the line with mechanical controls and the water sensor that would bring the cold water up to minimum temperature in cold weather and huge capacity. My younger son killed it during his "snake" phase. He collected fan and light chains and called them his snakes. It was delightful to watch him having so much fun with them, but I missed one in a pocket when I was doing the wash. It wrapped around the transmission and killed the washer dead. (OK, one of you may have had a solution, but my extremely handy husband could not find one.) Anyway, I digress. We salvaged most of its parts and installed my grandmothers tan with faux woodgrain control panel Kenmore from gosh knows how long ago. I think it's pretty cool that the parts are interchangeable. Anyway, the Kenmore has been making a clicking (switching on and off) sound when trying to begin the spin cycle. Last week, it became unbalanced during a spin cycle and cut off before I could get to it. I redistributed and tried to restart the spin cycle but it would not start. We ran several full cycles after that then I tried to spin only a few light cotton sweaters, and it clicked and struggled then cut off. It probably can be fixed, and that is what we need to do. I'm just madly in love with Kelly's Maytag set and would love to replace it. Thanks, Sarah | ||
Post# 628532 , Reply# 3 9/30/2012 at 12:06 (4,224 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 I'm not understanding the situation about a pullchain forgotten in a pocket wrapping around the transmission. The transmission is outside and beneath the tub/basket, there's no direct access between them. What you refer to as a "rubber boot" is correctly called a drive coupler. It's three pieces (two plastic cogs with a rubber bushing between) that mesh together for the motor shaft to drive the transmission shaft. Equivalent to a belt. You need to cite the specific model number of the machine so repair gurus can reference the details involved ... such as whether it has a off-balance switch (seems it does based on your description) and a separate speed control switch on the panel (which can be a source of the clicking on-off that you describe). Also, a video of what happening, posted to YouTube (if you can do that) would clarify the symptoms. These direct-drive machines are rarely so-far gone as to be unrepairable. | ||
| Post# 628546 , Reply# 4 9/30/2012 at 13:13 (4,224 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada) | ||
about your spin cycle not restarting i had a direct drive inglis superb2 whirlpool washer from 1993 to 2004 and in 1996 the motor burn out is simply a a)burn motor or b) a defective timer as i also had in 1998 a defective timer as the washer would skip on normal cycle the first spin and jump straight to the first rinse.
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| Post# 628588 , Reply# 6 9/30/2012 at 16:38 (4,224 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama) | ||
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No intention of getting a newly manufactured machine!
Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
As for the "snake," I'm obviously not getting all of the details right. It did "sneak" through the basket and wrap itself around something--possibly the shaft and burn something (thought it was the transmission) up to the extent that my husband couldn't find a solution for fixing it. There probably was one, and someone here probably knows what it is. But my fella, who doesn't give up easily, is tenacious and couldn't find it. Ultimately a repairman pronounced it dead. My current machine's info is: Model 110: 82672810 Stock: 2672810 amps 60 hz 120 volts Serial: 064508566 (and any washer I would replace it with would not only be used but also old enough to use actual water. I have a friend with a < year old front loader that uses so little water it simply grosses me out. I used it once, and just couldn't wrap my head around having my clothes sloshed over and over a grey puddle. blech.) Thanks, Sarah | ||
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Post# 628601 , Reply# 7 9/30/2012 at 17:21 (4,224 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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The previous machine, assuming it was another direct-drive unit, the most likely damage a small chain gotten loose out of the inner basket (escaped through a perf into the outer tub) would cause is getting into the pump and jamming it (and the motor from running). Replacing the pump is tres easy. Of course, I wasn't there, so could been something freakish happened. The current machine, the serial number would be C645, which indicates manufacture in the 45th week of 1976 or 1986. Couldn't be 1976, direct-drive wasn't being produced then. Do not find a off-balance cutout on the parts diagram. Two auxiliary controls on the panel (temp & water level), so no separate speed switch. Could be a flaky or broken lid switch, which comes into play during spin (and drain) periods. Easy fix. Investigation: Set the timer to spin, with the lid open, press the lid switch with a pencil or some such. Do you hear a faint click of the switch actuating? Does it run? In cases of extreme unbalance, the tub can bounce up and hit the lid switch under the top and break it. Could be a flaky timer. Could be a bad motor. Both are available but toward the expensive (although a used motor could be had) so may not be worth doing depending on the 26-years-old machine's physical condition. If the machine agitates OK, drains OK (neutral drain model), just dies/jams-up at spin, then could be a clutch or brake problem ... which also is fixable. | ||
| Post# 628650 , Reply# 8 9/30/2012 at 22:00 (4,224 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama) | ||
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Lid switch...
I tried spinning with the lid open--holding the switch down with a pencil. The basket spun, but it continued to make the clicking/switching noise. It's louder than a click and is accompanied by a whine and possible slowing of the spin. It sounds like something is straining hard to work.
What next? Thanks, Sarah | ||
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Post# 628662 , Reply# 9 9/30/2012 at 22:25 (4,224 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Hmmm. There's no such clicking/grinding noise during agitation? Another possibility is a bad basket drive block and/or the ears at top of the spin tube on which the block mounts are broken / sheared off. As mentioned above, a video clip would help diagnosis from afar. The drive block can be seen and examined to a degree by removing the agitator. | ||
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Post# 628785 , Reply# 10 10/1/2012 at 15:15 (4,223 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR) |
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DD Noise | ||
| Post# 629280 , Reply# 12 10/3/2012 at 21:05 (4,221 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama) | ||
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Bobloads? | ||
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Post# 629353 , Reply# 13 10/4/2012 at 10:28 (4,220 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Speed Queen! | ||
| Post# 629372 , Reply# 14 10/4/2012 at 12:26 (4,220 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama) | ||
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Camera Shy Washer
OK, I got myself a project that I could on the table next to the washer. I set my camera on video and started a small load. I stood there camera in hand...waiting....waiting...and waiting. My washer completed two entire cycles without making the sound once.
???? Maybe I'll just bring the camera down every time I do laundry. A nuisance but cheaper than a new washer. Thanks, Sarah | ||
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