Thread Number: 42716
Kenmore 80 Series
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Post# 628437   9/30/2012 at 00:31 (4,220 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Hi guys.
have a 2000 or 2001 Kenmore 80 series washer. I suspect has a worn clutch, spin tube, ?? not sure yet, but I digress!

The new problem I notice is that it occasionally dose a spin rinse, instead of the neutral drain it's supposed to do?

My question, is this a timer issue? I ask because the timer is fairly new?





Post# 628440 , Reply# 1   9/30/2012 at 01:05 (4,220 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

That would be a failed neutral pak in your transmission. The timer does not decide whether or not it neutral drains, it just controls the direction of the motor when it it calling for agitation or drain/spin.

Post# 628442 , Reply# 2   9/30/2012 at 01:36 (4,220 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Dave

stan's profile picture
so am I looking at replacing a transmission? Can you explain further?

As I say, it dose not always do this. When it dose though, It will stop agitating, and go directly into a spin, then stop, and then do a rinse spin, and move on the next cycle?


Post# 628494 , Reply# 3   9/30/2012 at 08:45 (4,219 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Those cycles you see there are merely the washer going into what should be neutral drain then the pause before the actual spin is what normally happens.


There are no electronics involved for the neutral drain and then going into spin. In fact, while it is neutral draining if you were to stop the machine in any way, such as opening the lid, the transmission would engage into spin, that's basically the same thing that the "pause" does.

Now in order for the neutral drain to work in the first place, the machine has to first agitate a certain number of times before the motor reverses for the drain/spin portion.


You could either replace the transmission if you wish or the neutral pak inside of it (there are some youtube videos on both of those)





This post was last edited 09/30/2012 at 13:29
Post# 628503 , Reply# 4   9/30/2012 at 09:04 (4,219 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
The machine will actually work OK doing a spin-drain.  There's a slight increased risk of off-balance spin if clothes floating in the water bunch-up together before enough water is drained for the items to "stick" to the basket wall.  This is more likely to occur if the water level is too high for a given load (more float-space), but it's not all that big of a deal either way.


Post# 628506 , Reply# 5   9/30/2012 at 09:41 (4,219 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

kenmore71's profile picture
Here are the economics of it:

Rebuilt transmission - about $100-$120
New transmission - $200-ish
Neutral Drain assembly - about $25-$30

You have to drop the transmission and remove the cover to change the neutral drain pak. If you have the space and the know-how it's not a difficult job, just a little bit fussy. Most field guys keep a spare rebuilt transmission with them and just drop out the bad one and then put in the good one. Then on some quiet day back at the shop they'll open up a bunch of bad transmissions and repair them all at once.


Post# 628640 , Reply# 6   9/30/2012 at 21:25 (4,219 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Thanks guys

stan's profile picture
for the info.

Lid switch has already been by passed, timer replaced, and before this, it had, or still has a clutch issue, or wore spin tube,ect because it was
(on occasion) slow, or no spin, unless I helped it a little ( for some reason have'nt seen it do that lately)
So ...Think I'll ride it out til I have to do something.



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