Thread Number: 42737
Question about WP/KM BD |
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Post# 628625   9/30/2012 at 19:27 (4,217 days old) by cphifer5115 (Jackson, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 628629 , Reply# 1   9/30/2012 at 20:08 (4,217 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 628638 , Reply# 3   9/30/2012 at 21:17 (4,217 days old) by cphifer5115 (Jackson, TN)   |   | |
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well guys when i got this machine over a year ago, the agitator would spin just as fast as the tub. but watching it now in the last 3 or 4 months it doesn't seem to spin as fast. i'm not that concerned about it the machine hasn't missed a beat since i got it but i've noticed that fabric softener is spraying out while it's spinning i can see it on the tub ring while the machine is spinning.
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Post# 628655 , Reply# 4   9/30/2012 at 22:08 (4,217 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Chris -
I hate to say this, but one of the things that can cause the agitator to not spin with the basket is the amount of lubrication on the T-bearing. It rides at the base of the spin tube. If the spin tube is spinning, it picks up the t-bearing and the agitator along with it. BUT, a few times when I was learning these machines, I put too much white lithium on the surface of the bearing, thinking I was doing a good thing, and then the agitator would not spin much if at all. Turns out there was too much lubrication there, if you want the agitator to free-wheel that is. Later I saw in print where Whirlpool said not to do that... In your machine's case, my guess would be, and this is what I hate to bring up, that this machine too may be leaking down the center and getting the t-bearing wet. There may be other culprits, but this was my first instinct for this situation. Gordon |
Post# 628707 , Reply# 5   10/1/2012 at 07:58 (4,217 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 628745 , Reply# 6   10/1/2012 at 10:01 (4,216 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Post# 628770 , Reply# 7   10/1/2012 at 13:59 (4,216 days old) by cphifer5115 (Jackson, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 628781 , Reply# 8   10/1/2012 at 14:34 (4,216 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Post# 628784 , Reply# 9   10/1/2012 at 15:04 (4,216 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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The agitator really isn't supposed to be stationary or slow as compared to the spin - at least not in more recent machines - as this would negate the usefulness of the agitator mounted softener dispensers. These take for granted that the agitator is going to spin fast enough, and consistently so, to fling the softener solution to the outside of the dispenser wall and hold it there until the machine stops for rinse fill.
Usually clothes will take the agitator for a ride for a while until the basket accelerates enough that clothes are pressed to the sides and are no longer touching the agitator. What I've seen is that when there isn't enough 'grip' between the t-bearing and the spin tube, OR the other components between the spin tube and the agitator shaft, the shaft will not spin at tub speeds, and the agitator then slows down, or rotates intermittently. When I quit putting grease on the surface of the t-bearing, my issues with this stopped, at least the issues that I was creating. From that point on, I have left the collar of the t-bearing as dry as possible. When the centerpost leaks, oily, detergent and softener laden water will coat this area and make it at least temporarily slick. Mark - there is a significant difference between your 1960 WP and Chris' 1981. The centerpost is 5 inches shorter in the '81. Unresealed machines eventually loose their centerpost seal through use and wear, and water much more readily will escape under the 81's agitator. Your machine, having been re-done and re-sealed by you not that long ago, probably does not have that problem yet. The rub though in all this is that when the agitator doesn't spin fast enough or at all, it wears the seal(s) even faster than if they were all traveling at the same speed, thereby hastening the wear even more. I believe conditions internal to the transmission can cause some resistance on the agitator shaft as well, but not in a healthy transmission. Gordon |
Post# 628786 , Reply# 10   10/1/2012 at 15:23 (4,216 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Direct drive units have the "agitator clip" (a plastic cam that sits atop the basket drive block with a clip on the agitator shaft to anchor it) to help insure the agitator rotates at full spin speed. I don't think the piece will work on a belt-drive machine, but perhaps something similar could be devised. |
Post# 628825 , Reply# 12   10/1/2012 at 19:39 (4,216 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 628845 , Reply# 13   10/1/2012 at 21:06 (4,216 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Seems like these would work on a belt-drive, like John said. I believe the basket drive block in all DDs is the same as the one used in large cap BDs, and the agitator shaft surface is the same, even the same diameter.
Is there a notch or groove these lock onto in the agitator shaft? If not, they'd work on a BD easily. Gordon |
Post# 628986 , Reply# 14   10/2/2012 at 14:04 (4,215 days old) by cphifer5115 (Jackson, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 629010 , Reply# 15   10/2/2012 at 15:57 (4,215 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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