Thread Number: 42798
Duet 9400
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Post# 629403   10/4/2012 at 15:04 (1,754 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Refurb project started yesterday. Bad bearings.

Pump protector.

Discuss. (Or perhaps disgust.)

Post# 629404 , Reply# 1   10/4/2012 at 15:09 (1,754 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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Yup, disgust!

Was this on an oil rig?

Post# 629417 , Reply# 2   10/4/2012 at 16:41 (1,754 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        
@gansky1: Was this on an oil rig?

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Not unless there is a woman or X-dresser working on one, because there is a bobby pin in that schmutz.

Post# 629418 , Reply# 3   10/4/2012 at 16:44 (1,754 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        

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Obviously someone doesn't check their pockets before hitting the start button.

Post# 629433 , Reply# 4   10/4/2012 at 17:26 (1,754 days old) by iowegian ()        


I did notice that the newer WP Duets no longer have an access door on the front to get to that pump protecter/filter thing. Wonder what that's all about?

Post# 629443 , Reply# 5   10/4/2012 at 18:09 (1,754 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Duets never had an access door. You had to stand on your head to remove the center screw from the lower panel and the two other screws to access the innards. This looks like a decaying bird. Sorry.

Post# 629456 , Reply# 6   10/4/2012 at 18:53 (1,754 days old) by iowegian ()        

I stand corrected re: duet access door.

It's pretty clear that the pump protector served its intended purpose, though...

Post# 629504 , Reply# 7   10/5/2012 at 00:02 (1,754 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Where are you sourcing the seal from??  I've got a Duet torn down, for a number on months -- not high on my list, but need a decent seal.  I bought my last one from the guy online but felt the shipping was price gouging.  looking for a good source.

Post# 629511 , Reply# 8   10/5/2012 at 02:12 (1,753 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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Don't you have a Duet? I know this can't be YOUR washer.....

Oh - oh - oh and regarding the access door to clean the pump - isn't that the freaking truth! I mean, there should be a door for easy access to clean that!

Post# 629518 , Reply# 9   10/5/2012 at 03:07 (1,753 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

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Why whirlpool refuses to put the small door on so customers have access to the button catchers they have on their Duets is beyond my comprehension. The Electroluxes have no catch hense no door but everyone else has it. Why????????????

Post# 629532 , Reply# 10   10/5/2012 at 05:19 (1,753 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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I know! It just makes ZERO sense that they don't have an access door on the front. I can't figure it out. Even the latest models!

1,2-Kalamozoo; 5,6- West Phoenix; 1008,1009-Anaheim - Why do I have to wait for it? I don'wanna wait for it!

Post# 629641 , Reply# 11   10/5/2012 at 12:34 (1,753 days old) by joe_in_philly (Philadelphia, PA, USA)        

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I have had my HE3t washer (Duet sister) for 9 years, and have yet to find something in the pump protector.

Post# 629653 , Reply# 12   10/5/2012 at 13:32 (1,753 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Not my machine. Doing the project for my neighbor to use the pair stacked at a foreclosure he's remodeling for rental. Same neighbor of the Catalyst project last year.

The set was obtained via CraigsList. Seller had listed only the dryer. The washer had been "abandoned" at the local Whites Western Auto after diagnosis of bad bearings. Seller said he could try getting it back and toss it in for "free" with the dryer deal, which he did.

MattL had been reporting on his bearing replacement project at the time so I figured I'd try it.

Unfortunately the peeps at the store cracked the outer cover on the door. Seller said it was not cracked prior to leaving the machine there. The store gave him a spare door but it's the wrong design (duhhhhh). The crack is cosmetic but Mr. Neighbor wants to replace the cover, which is the most expensive of the short-list of needed parts. I may yet convince him to take the cover off and do without.

My only other concern at this point is whether the spider has enough "life" remaining to justify the project. The arms aren't bad but the center around the shaft has some corrosion. A new drum/spider tips the project over to "uhhhh, maybe not" territory. I need to remove the spider to clean all the smutz, I suppose whether or not it breaks is an indication.

Post# 629654 , Reply# 13   10/5/2012 at 13:35 (1,753 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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MattL, I don't have any knowledge/experience of how to source the bearing seal, so will have to go with the "Handyman" guy's offering.

Post# 629672 , Reply# 14   10/5/2012 at 15:03 (1,753 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        

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Hi Glen, what a mucker, looks like you`ll need a hazmat suit with that!!

Wonder what type of detergent ( if any) was being used and programme selection!!

Many of our older machines used a vortex pump which had vanes and flushed everything through to machines do have traps but must admit have never seen a pump and spider so bad - best of luck!!

Post# 629676 , Reply# 15   10/5/2012 at 15:35 (1,753 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
The scuttlebutt was...

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That Whirlpool eliminated the lower access panel to eliminate cabinet vibration issues. I never noticed any major noise that I'd blame on that lower panel, myself. My personal thought was that it would make it 'more cost efficient' to stamp only one panel during production. As to trying to access the clean out on a washer full of water and why isn't there a easier way to get to it without dismantling the whole pos, very seldom have I seen Whirlpool actually try to make the servicer's lives easier. I just wish that they would regularly involve a few techs when designing things...


Post# 629680 , Reply# 16   10/5/2012 at 15:50 (1,753 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
Every time

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I see a Duet washer that is similar to mine that's almost 8 yrs old, I have to wonder what my spider looks like on it.....but I'm not taking it apart to find out..Even if I wanted to, I don't know how and would be terrified to attempt such a thing.

I'm not so sure I would go through this project.......That spider doesn't look that great....It would be a shame to do all of that work only for it to disintegrate in a few months....

Post# 629683 , Reply# 17   10/5/2012 at 16:11 (1,753 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

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would not like to see my 2004 duet in such a state i would rather replace it with a new machine rather than pay for a tech to come clean these parts

Post# 629689 , Reply# 18   10/5/2012 at 16:56 (1,753 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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This machine is a tad-bit over 6 years old now. Serial number CST33. 33rd week of 2006.

It was a few months past 5 years when the seller was selling. We picked them up on/about 12-20-2011.

Post# 629692 , Reply# 19   10/5/2012 at 17:24 (1,753 days old) by logixx (Germany)        
Pump access made easy outside the US

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Checked the filter on mine after one year of use and it was clean. That one is disgusting. I wonder how often the machine suds-locked.

Post# 629710 , Reply# 20   10/5/2012 at 19:33 (1,753 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
my toughs are that the previous owner must of used non he de

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my toughts on this and what might of cause this is that the previous user of this washer must of used non he detergent when these m,achines are ment to be used with he detergent like any type of front load washers unless the detergent is formulated for both he and non he washers in other words for all machines.

Post# 629714 , Reply# 21   10/5/2012 at 19:47 (1,753 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Looks like WP set out to make cleaning the pump protector a service call type procedure by not having an access port.

Post# 629727 , Reply# 22   10/5/2012 at 21:43 (1,753 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

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By the way, the Lux machines have a trap but it's located just under the drum in the sump hose. Not sure how one's supposed to get there without pulling the machine off the wall.

This is the parts diagram from the WaveTouch from searspartsdirect. The trap is #40.

Post# 629780 , Reply# 23   10/6/2012 at 07:12 (1,752 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
Dumb question

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If the spider is corroding as is pictured above, but the pump itself and the inner & outer tub are clean, would the machine smell?

Post# 629801 , Reply# 24   10/6/2012 at 09:50 (1,752 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I do know who owned the machine (a local insurance agent), but I have no specific information on their usage habits. I could call the fellow and question him but no doubt he'd find that to be extremely odd, LOL.

I will conjecture that it had a diet of liquid detergent (the dispenser drawer insert is in the liquid position, although that may not be meaningful).

I will conjecture that a lot of cold or low-temp washes were run. There is NO mineral scale buildup on the heating element so I would assume the element was never utilized for a "super hot" wash.

And no bleach washes. It reeks of a mild sewer odor. The tub and drum are near, if not AT, "hazardous bioagent" status (not to mention the pump per pic above). I've cleaned half the outer tub, sprayed it with bleach and all the mold/mildew stains are cleared ... one would assume that use of chlorine bleach on a regular basis would have had an appreciable effect.

Rear half of the outer tub. Bottom/sump is at the right. The lighter area is sunlight. The object stuck near the sump is a piece of foam from a shoulder pad.

Post# 629803 , Reply# 25   10/6/2012 at 09:54 (1,752 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Outer tub, front half. What looks like mineral residue on the element is just debris/dust that dried and fell off the tub and spider.

Post# 629805 , Reply# 26   10/6/2012 at 09:55 (1,752 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Post# 629807 , Reply# 27   10/6/2012 at 10:33 (1,752 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Questions for folks more experienced than myself: Is it a reasonable proposal to remove the spider and treat it with POR-15, if it's still sturdy enough to be used?

Is removing the spider a bad idea? It's available only part-and-parcel attached to the drum, so maybe it shouldn't be pulled off ... which kinda presents a problem for dealing with the ick accumulation behind it.

Post# 629858 , Reply# 28   10/6/2012 at 17:01 (1,752 days old) by Iowegian ()        

I think POR-15 is only intended for ferrous metals. If I understand correctly, the Whirlpool spider is some kind of aluminum alloy.

Powder coating is pretty accessible and cheap these days - I bet you could find someone to do a spider for maybe $40. But I don't know how well it would hold up to detergent/bleach exposure, either. Might be worth a look-see...

Post# 629861 , Reply# 29   10/6/2012 at 17:10 (1,752 days old) by Iowegian ()        

Oops, hit send too quick...

I don't know how hard it would be to remove the spider - I think if I were going to attempt it, I'd try a few applications of penetrating oil over a day before I put a wrench to it - I'd bet that the fasteners are probably corroded and there's no worse feeling than snapping off a bolt...and then having to get out the easy-outs and hot wrench.

As far as reassembly, I suppose a person would need to use some care in reassembly so the basket would end up parallel to the shaft so there wouldn't be a runout/balance issue on spin.

Post# 629874 , Reply# 30   10/6/2012 at 19:11 (1,752 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The spider is not going to come off ... at least not under my effort. Don't know if the anchor screws are sealed with something, tried one (T35) and slightly damaged it so that's the end of that. Gave it an initial spray-down and the most A-L-A-R-M-I-N-G mass of lint and smutz flushed from behind. Will apply a pressure washer tomorrow. I'm halfway considering replacing the basket/spider, just for reason of doing the job better and longer-lasting (assuming the bearing deal is successful) but that would up the cost by more than double.

Got the seal and two bearings out and rear tub cleaned.

Post# 629924 , Reply# 31   10/6/2012 at 23:49 (1,752 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

I would not buy a new tub/spider-- I would look for a parts donor.

Post# 630162 , Reply# 32   10/7/2012 at 23:20 (1,751 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The bearing seal is identified as 50mm x 100mm x 13.5 mm (shaft diameter x outer diameter x thickness). Doing some online searching/research, I don't find that exact specification. I do find 50mm x 100mm x 10mm.

Looking back at MattL's thread from his project, the "Handyman" guy sources a 50mm x 100mm x 10mm seal. Hmmmm.

Also interesting. Parts diagram for "current" Duet model WFW9151YW shows the spider available as a separate item. An online source lists it for $87.48. However, GHW9400PW4 is the model at hand, which lists a different complete drum than WFW9151YW, so I don't know if perhaps the drum sizes are slightly different or 9151 mounts the spider differently, or something.

Post# 630166 , Reply# 33   10/8/2012 at 01:03 (1,751 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

I bought a seal on ebay that is exactly the same as the one I bought from Handyman, but it was the wrong size, my mistake.  The seller claimed to have an assortment of sizes and i contacted him/them but never heard back.  What I was/am after is the correct size double lip with a stainless steel spring.  I think the stainless steel spring will help prevent rust out which may be what leads to early failure.  At least that is my theory.

Post# 630302 , Reply# 34   10/8/2012 at 19:09 (1,750 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Debris laid out from the pump protector. Coins, bobby pins, pellets, two screws, a nail, possible chicken bone, various cellophane wrappers, accumulated lint, possible tampon applicator.

It still REEKS after drying out for several days.

Post# 630306 , Reply# 35   10/8/2012 at 19:22 (1,750 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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It's gross to see all of that but I'm really not surprised in the least. I think there are probably many many washers currently in operation that are in such a state. A tampon applicator? That reminds me - someone once told me that if you open a tampon in the dark, it makes a *spark*! I never tried it.

Post# 630310 , Reply# 36   10/8/2012 at 19:35 (1,750 days old) by Iowegian ()        

Heh, that pic looks like something out of an episode of CSI!

You need a Horatio Cain dry one-liner to caption it...

Post# 630311 , Reply# 37   10/8/2012 at 19:37 (1,750 days old) by Iowegian ()        


Dunno about the tampon thing, but I remember hitting Wint-O-Green Life Savers with a hammer in the dark when I was a kid just to see the sparks.

Post# 630365 , Reply# 38   10/9/2012 at 00:37 (1,750 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

You can also see the "sparks" in Wint-O-Green Lifesavers by standing in front of a mirror in the dark and biting them with your mouth open-You can see the sparks and eat them and not waste them by not having to hit them with a hammer.

Post# 630528 , Reply# 39   10/9/2012 at 18:16 (1,749 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        
Pump Question

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I don't know if it perhaps *shouldn't* be disassembled but this pump is so nasty that I had to do something to deal with it. The motor attaches (and detaches) to the hose housing via three screws.

My question is, the impeller is very loose and wobbly to the point that I'm thinking it's broken. It does turn by hand and the rotor turns with a strong cogging effect.

Sorry for the quick-and-dirty video quality.

">Wobbly Pump Impeller

Seems to be damage on the impeller where it anchors to the shaft. Fatal?

Post# 630583 , Reply# 40   10/9/2012 at 23:57 (1,749 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Some of the pumps are kind of generic.  On my first and oldest Duet I replaced the pump it was in much the same shape as yours appears to be --not mucked up and such but loose.  The WP replacement was $69, however the exact same pump from GE was $19.99 go figure.

Post# 630772 , Reply# 41   10/10/2012 at 23:42 (1,748 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Hey, I just ordered this...  The price was right as is the size.  Even if there is an issue I'm only out $5.




Post# 637519 , Reply# 42   11/8/2012 at 10:25 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Finished this restore.

A few more "before" pics.

Bare cabinet.

Post# 637520 , Reply# 43   11/8/2012 at 10:26 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Tub removed. It fit perfectly atop a patio bistro table.

Post# 637521 , Reply# 44   11/8/2012 at 10:28 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Mucky, corroded drum support and worn shaft.

Post# 637523 , Reply# 45   11/8/2012 at 10:33 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Dirty tub. The debris apparently is bits of the drum support disintegrating. I pressure-washed the drum and it looked usable, but debris kept trickling from behind the support. Considering the worn shaft, I decided not to trust it.

Post# 637526 , Reply# 46   11/8/2012 at 10:49 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Tub outlet hose with sump ball.

Post# 637527 , Reply# 47   11/8/2012 at 10:51 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Post# 637528 , Reply# 48   11/8/2012 at 10:51 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Old bearing seal.

Post# 637529 , Reply# 49   11/8/2012 at 10:53 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Clean cabinet ready for machine reassembly in bathroom "studio."

Post# 637530 , Reply# 50   11/8/2012 at 10:54 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Clean rear drum half.

Post# 637531 , Reply# 51   11/8/2012 at 10:56 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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New bearings & seal. Seal is a little different than the original ... hope it lasts! This is the same kind of seal that MattL sourced from the Yellow Van Handyman for his bearing repair about which he posted in January.

Post# 637533 , Reply# 52   11/8/2012 at 10:58 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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New drum (grrr -- $$$).

Post# 637534 , Reply# 53   11/8/2012 at 10:59 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Post# 637535 , Reply# 54   11/8/2012 at 11:00 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Tub reassembly.

Post# 637536 , Reply# 55   11/8/2012 at 11:01 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Post# 637537 , Reply# 56   11/8/2012 at 11:02 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Post# 637542 , Reply# 57   11/8/2012 at 11:13 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Whirlpool only sells a full pump housing & motor. I found a source for just the motor at a much more reasonable price. Unfortunately the new motor arrived with damage. I wasn't aware until assembly and testing that it's fatal damage ...

Beware F a c t o r y A p p l i a n c e P a r t s . c o m. The fellow denied my request for replacement of the damaged item, said all items are tested & inspected before shipping.

It was packaged OK and there's no puncture or evidence of an impact on the box, so that leaves a choice of what cause?

Post# 637544 , Reply# 58   11/8/2012 at 11:15 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Part of the interior of the motor housing is exposed to the water flow. Upon filling, water dribbled out of the crack.

Post# 637545 , Reply# 59   11/8/2012 at 11:16 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Water spurted out of the crack when the pump ran.

Post# 637546 , Reply# 60   11/8/2012 at 11:20 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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It wasn't an eBay transaction but I did pay via PayPal, so contacted them for a dispute. However, I decided to fix the crack rather than wait for the seller to respond to the dispute, and possibly be stuck having to find another pump.

Waterproof marine epoxy, both outside and inside the motor housing.

Anyone have an opinion on what's the prognosis for long-term integrity?

Post# 637547 , Reply# 61   11/8/2012 at 11:20 (1,719 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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Looks like you're doing a good job. I would never attempt this myself. Sorry to hear about the factoryappliaceparts......Send him a link to this post. LOL

Post# 637548 , Reply# 62   11/8/2012 at 11:21 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Test run.

Post# 637550 , Reply# 63   11/8/2012 at 11:28 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Cost of parts & supplies: Uhhh ....

Going through the experience: Priceless


Post# 637562 , Reply# 64   11/8/2012 at 12:17 (1,719 days old) by retropia (Central Ohio)        

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Wow. Looks as good as new! Hope it lasts a long time.

Post# 637568 , Reply# 65   11/8/2012 at 12:48 (1,719 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        
"all items are tested & inspected before shipping"

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What?, Do the have a duet they installed it on to "test" it?  Smells like BS to me. Let us know what happens.

Post# 637581 , Reply# 66   11/8/2012 at 13:14 (1,719 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        

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Great restoration Glen, like new with the new Drum, bearings and pump system, not had need personally to use the epoxy, its not like its a pressured pump like mains pressure although I wonder how the caustic detergent will affect it?

Whats the water level like? have you tweaked it?

Post# 637627 , Reply# 67   11/8/2012 at 16:55 (1,719 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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It is impressive Dadoes! Looks shiny & new.......That's one model up from my duet. Mine is the GHW9300 or 9350 (can't remember the exact numbers) but nearing 8 years and still going strong..Still looks new & shiny. I think these are worth restoring because they seem to last. Or just maybe the fact that I'm the only one that has ever used it it's entire life could have something to do with it.


Post# 637635 , Reply# 68   11/8/2012 at 17:27 (1,719 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The marine epoxy product I used is suitable for fresh and salt water, temp to 200F.

The water level is disconcertingly low on Sanitary, Heavy Duty, Whitest Whites ... and likewise alarmingly high on the Delicate/Handwash cycle. I don't feel a need to adjust it. Keep in mind the machine is not mine and is destined for a rental property. I'm concerned that a frontloader isn't the best choice for use by (careless) renters but a stacked set is necessary for the location.

There is a painful squealing noise much of the time, which I have diagnosed to the belt, which I did not (yet) replace. Is there any recourse to quietening the squeal other than replacement? Belt dressing? A dry lubricant such as cornstarch?

Be nice if there were more options for heating, but this model is what it is. Sanitary cycle, which does seem to reach the target even starting with a cold fill. Whites and Heavy boosts hot and warm on the normal or heavy soil levels but only as far as the duration of the wash period allows.

Post# 637653 , Reply# 69   11/8/2012 at 19:17 (1,719 days old) by logixx (Germany)        
Belt noise?

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Does it sound like this?!? I'm still not sure what it is on my washer - customer service said the noise was "normal"...



Post# 638238 , Reply# 70   11/11/2012 at 13:26 (1,716 days old) by einhorn ()        
Amazing Job. Wasn't the Inner Tub Covered by Warranty

Hey thats an amazing job, its great to see the machine looking like the day it left the showroom!

I'm particularly interested in this thread because I'm strongly considering embarking on a similar mission. My Duet's bearings are going. The unit isn't in the condition that yours started out in, but then again its also older. So I fear what condition the Spider might be in.

I'm curious, you decided to replace the inner tub once you saw the condition of the Spider arm. You mentioned $$$. But you also mentioned that the unit was only 6 years old. Doesn't the inner tub have a lifetime guarantee? And since the spider only comes as part of the inner tub, couldn't you have gotten a new Spider and Tub under warranty?

Thanks again,


Post# 638299 , Reply# 71   11/11/2012 at 17:45 (1,716 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Warranty ... I don't know. I don't have the original paperwork specific to this machine. A user manual for the model, downloaded from Whirlpool, states one year warranty, nothing extra on the drum.

Post# 638353 , Reply# 72   11/11/2012 at 19:46 (1,716 days old) by Iowegian ()        


I have found that things like belt dressing just mask the symptom(s) of a bigger problem.

While I'm far from a v-belt expert, in my experience, noise usually comes from misalignment, a low-tension issue or a worn belt that is riding low in the pulleys.

Post# 638368 , Reply# 73   11/11/2012 at 20:25 (1,716 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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It's not a V-belt exactly. It's a multi-ribbed, stretch belt, similar to a dryer but wider. The motor pulley has matching grooves. The drum pulley has a smooth surface, not grooved. I imagine I'll replace the belt before it's put into service at the rental location. Still have the matching dryer to get cleaned up.

Post# 638375 , Reply# 74   11/11/2012 at 21:03 (1,716 days old) by Iowegian ()        

My bad on the v-belt comment - I should have known better that it was a ribbed belt. Duh.

I've replaced a couple of those ribbed belts in automotive applications - it seems that the tensioner and/or the idler device wears out before the belt and the smooth side of the belt sometimes wears out before the ribbed side.

Still much better than the days where we had multiple v-belts driving the water pump, alternator, and the optional power steering pump and ac compressor.

OK, have I changed the subject enough?

Post# 638421 , Reply# 75   11/11/2012 at 23:31 (1,716 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Looks like a great job --well done! You should have many years of use out of the rebuilt unit. Excellent job with the pictures too.

Post# 640444 , Reply# 76   11/20/2012 at 11:01 (1,707 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Longer story short ... the pump motor source sent a replacement, but it's a different motor. Looks to be an LG item, has the terminals in a different arrangement. Duet harness plug won't connect, would have to be split apart and/or the two wires changed to separate spade connectors ... which I suppose can be done, but the LG pump may also be larger, possibly not mount on the pump housing.

Post# 641191 , Reply# 77   11/24/2012 at 09:29 (1,703 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The LG pump does fit. Easy enough to rework the wiring harness.

For future reference to perhaps benefit other peeps, LG Part Number 4681EA2001T fits as a replacement pump motor on Duet GHW9400PW4, and presumably other models.

Post# 641356 , Reply# 78   11/24/2012 at 21:06 (1,703 days old) by A440 ()        

You did a great job with this machine! Looks new.
Thanks for the information about the LG pump motor. It is a heck of a lot cheaper.
What are you thoughts on it once you gave it a run? Does is appear to have a little more power so to speak. I think the pump that Whirlpool offers is very under rated for this machine.
Also, did you just split the electrical connector in half to make it fit?

Post# 641357 , Reply# 79   11/24/2012 at 21:08 (1,703 days old) by A440 ()        

Glen did your motor look like this one in the link that I provided?
The part you supplied brings up two types of motors in the sense that they don't look alike. Both suppliers say they fit either Kenmore or LG.


Post# 641691 , Reply# 80   11/26/2012 at 08:13 (1,701 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Brent, yes, the link you posted is the LG pump motor. LG also lists a recirculation pump that's physically smaller, but it's a different part number.

Post# 641702 , Reply# 81   11/26/2012 at 09:48 (1,701 days old) by A440 ()        

Thanks Glen!

Post# 641994 , Reply# 82   11/27/2012 at 07:18 (1,700 days old) by einhorn ()        
Bearing Seal

Hi Glen, up above you showed a closeup of the new seal that you installed (in post 637531). Could you give some pointers towards finding the right oil seal to match the bearings?

My duet uses the 6206 inner bearing. This has an inner diameter of 30 and an outer diameter of 62. The best guess I can make at a correct seal is a 35.62.10TC. This would be 5mm larger than the inner diameter, which looks to be about the same as what you've got there. Not knowing much about seals, I'm just wondering if that 2.5mm of the bearing that would be uncovered would lead to water eventually getting into the seals.

Another option is a 30.62.10TC, which would have the same diameter as the inner diameter. Thus the seal would be rubbing against the shaft and also the part of the bearing that rotates, so I'm guessing that wouldn't be the right size.


Post# 642008 , Reply# 83   11/27/2012 at 08:36 (1,700 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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The inner diameter of the seal must match to the drum shaft, not to the bearing inner diameter. It mates to the shaft as indicated in this picture and must be water-tight there and to the larger outer diameter of the tub housing.

The seal I used is 50mm (inner diameter) x 100mm (outer diameter) x 10mm (thickness). My original seal is 50mm x 100mm x 13.5mm. I could not find anything 13.5mm thickness at the required diameters.

All Duet models aren't necessarily the same on seal and bearing sizes. Duet Sport is different, possibly others. Your original seal should have the dimensions somewhere on it.

Post# 642215 , Reply# 84   11/28/2012 at 01:35 (1,699 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

As I mentioned earlier I got a seal on ebay from China for $4.30 and it appears to be an almost exact match.  The sizing will depend on the shaft size and the outer bearing size.  You can either track the info down online or get a good caliper.

Post# 642225 , Reply# 85   11/28/2012 at 02:32 (1,699 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Very nice results from your restoration Glen.  I was wondering if the new drum has the same spider?  Have the mfr. tried to eliminate the spider failure problem?  To go off topic, do you think the new machines with "fan fresh", is a mechanism to dry off the spider? Thanks, nice work.  arthur

Post# 642238 , Reply# 86   11/28/2012 at 04:40 (1,699 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        

jetcone's profile picture
did you bleach the boot or get a new one?

Post# 642244 , Reply# 87   11/28/2012 at 05:31 (1,699 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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Same spider/support on the replacement drum.

I tried cleaning the boot but the results weren't happy.

Parts list:
Inner Bearing
Outer Bearing
Bearing Seal
Pump Motor
Dispenser Drawer Latch (was missing)
Leveling Legs (unit had been on a pedestal, legs missing)
Thermistor (local Western Auto horked it)
Outer Door Frame (local Western Auto cracked it)
Outer Hinge Trim (local Western Auto cracked it)
Pump Outlet Hose (clogged & nasty, couldn't clean)

Still need to get:
Door Handle (has a crack, won't last under renter usage)

Post# 642370 , Reply# 88   11/28/2012 at 18:19 (1,699 days old) by einhorn ()        
Best Bearings and Source?

Thanks again Glen.

Where did you source the bearings and seal, or other parts for that matter?

And more importantly, how did you choose the replacement bearings? The bearings that the duet's use are fairly standard 6205, 6206, or 6307, depending on the model. So finding a replacement would be simple. However I'm really interested in what type of bearing might give the machine its longest life.

Even with a seal that doesn't fail, and the mildest HE detergents, I've come to the belief that bearings will always fail on a Front loader due to the cantilever effect from there being no front support. Design, use, and luck can vary the number of years until failure from 1 to 10, but after ten-twelve years, most front loaders are going to need new bearings.

But factors in a bearing design might prolong that? There's normal clearance, C3 clearance, deep groove, single row, double row, double seal...that's just to start.

If I look up 6205 and 6206 bearings I find several different models in top brands from NTN, Nachi, etc.. From each of these, I'm just wondering which might have a longer life. I was hoping that anyone on this forum might chime in with ideas on bearings that would last longer. Nothing is guaranteed, but I believe that some bearings might be better suited to such an application.

Thanks for sharing any thoughts!

Post# 642646 , Reply# 89   11/29/2012 at 17:45 (1,698 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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I don't know a bearing from Bering ... well, maybe a little. Following MattL's example from January, I used these. Someone via another venue suggested that they may not be the most durable under the load circumstances that can occur.
Nachi 6307-2NSE
Nachi 6206-2NSE

The seal is from an eBay storefront seller UltimateIndSolutions.

The original seal has a 3rd "face" lip that mates to the "collar" flange on the drum shaft. This is my concern that the replacement seal, which doesn't have the 3rd lip, isn't up to the task.

Other parts were from,,, and eBay.

Online sources I've used for other projects are,, and

Post# 642658 , Reply# 90   11/29/2012 at 18:28 (1,698 days old) by applianceguy47 ()        

Incredible job!  I can only imagine how many hours went into this sad thing.  


It looks like NEW now. 


Congrads,  your a PRO.


As for the access door for the filter clean out, I'm starting a separate thread with a relatively easy solution.



Post# 719166 , Reply# 91   12/4/2013 at 05:49 (1,328 days old) by DADoES (TX,U.S. of A.)        

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It has come to my attention that the piece of foam in the drum shown in Reply #24 that I assumed is from a shoulder pad is apparently OEM, not stray debris. I'm wondering what's the purpose of it.

Post# 947058 , Reply# 92   7/7/2017 at 18:34 by jasonthegreek (Templeton, California)        

Nice work and lots of useful information and pictures. However, I would like to share what I found on my very similar Sears Kenmore HE4t 110.45087400 made by Whirlpool in Germany.

Post# 642646, Reply# 89 discusses the bearings and seal. This is what I found on my machine: The front larger drum bearing is a SKF 6307-2Z/C3GJN and the rear smaller bearing is SKF 6206-2Z/C3GJN (2Z=2 metal shields, C3 is clearance/tolerance and GJN is Di-urea, Hi-temperature grease (115 cSt @ 40C, range -40C to + 150C)). I found both on eBay individually as new old stock.

The seal is very special and is not sold in the United States as confirmed by Whirlpool USA parts department. I found the part by the number printed on the seal 4619 702 0082 14 and 50 100 13.5 seal size. After considerable research, I located the seal under part number 481070257021 with confirmed dimensions 50x100x13.5. It is available on ebay United Kingdom and EU. Any other or/equal seal is not the correct one and will eventually leak. It appears that SKF makes the seal for Whirlpool. It is the 3 lip design as shown in DADoES's photo. Notice the worn groove on the bottom of the shaft support in the 2nd photo. That is where the 3rd lip rides and makes a water tight seal. This is very important part of the seal design.

Post# 642008, Reply# 83 shows a new tub shaft. On my machine the shaft was worn where the bearing made contact. Minor drum knocking noise is apparent when this happens. That is why I tore mine apart. I have attached pictures of the damaged area. My bearings still spin freely but I am replacing them as they are 12 years old and the entire machine is apart. The drum, spider and shaft are sold as a single unit and should be replaced under Sears lifetime warranty (for this part only). Hope this helps.

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