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Thread Number: 42806
1950 Kenmore washer repairs |
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Post# 629459 10/4/2012 at 19:21 (4,220 days old) by akronman  (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Here's the transmission, dated May 12, 1950. There's also a water level float switch that says March 20, 1950. With my eyes and a flashlight, 1950 is clear as a bell. The pump is entirely siezed, as was the suds pump. I have an 80's 2 port drain pump I will install, all it requires is removing the linkage from the neutral drain cam, and replacing the cam with a modern one. The suds pump---I oiled it down a long wick and 2 oilholes on the shaft, the next day it turned, so it will go back on the machine.
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Post# 629461 , Reply# 1 10/4/2012 at 19:24 (4,220 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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motor
I bought 2 motors, bench tested both and they work fine on high and low speed, and I can easily wire in a hi-low switch. I also bought a capacitor, my 1960 WP has a capacitor on it. These 2 in the picture both started fine without the capacitor, do I need it or did I buy non-capacitor motors? That part of electricity is a notch beyond my knowledge
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Post# 629462 , Reply# 2 10/4/2012 at 19:28 (4,220 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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suds pump | ||
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Post# 629464 , Reply# 3 10/4/2012 at 19:37 (4,220 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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underside
here's an underneath view, it's laying on its front on the floor. I'd never seen that shape baseplate, and also never seen those 2 shipping stabilizer bars, one's on the tranny, one is off.
On top of the picture you can see the newer pump I'll install. I've never had electricity to it yet, I have plenty of motor installation work to get to. But I did pour gallons of water into the tub, there's a major leak from the pot-metal of the suds pump that should be quite easily repaired with JB weld. But I did not see a single drop on the baseplate, maybe the tub is non leaking. With rotted hoses and the suds pump leaks, I couldn't fill it far enough to know yet about shaft seals and bearings. I will get to that step after a motor and both pumps are installed. And the very end of the tub hose has major cracks, but most of the length looks fine. I'll cautiously need to cut it and revise a bit for the newer pump, but am hoping strongly I don't have to removethe tub to replace the main drain hose. 
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Post# 629466 , Reply# 4 10/4/2012 at 19:50 (4,220 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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1950 KM washer Hi Mark, if you use the newer pump you have you can delete the suds return pump entirely, just run the outlet hose to the two-way valve and remove and tape off the wires to the suds-return pump and remove the solenoid, and the suds-saver system will work perfectly.
Motor start capacitors, if the motor did not have one originally it does nor require one, but you can add it if you like for slightly greater starting torque, just wire it in series with the motors start winding.
Original style steel shipping braces, these were used till the late 1950s, they were meant to be removed completely when the washer is in service and can be reinstalled if you wish to when it is transported.
Good Luck with your project, John. | ||
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Post# 629472 , Reply# 5 10/4/2012 at 20:26 (4,220 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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Thanks John
Thanks for the pump info, it makes perfect sense now that I think about it. My 1960 non-suds model sucks perfectly in dry-agaitate mode, with the newer style matching pump to my replacement here. Of course I still haven't any idea if the diverter valve is good, one step at a time.
If you're saying these motors don't require a capacitor, I will save the extra trouble and not use one, thanks for the info. I still have to fabricate a plate to install it, the baseplate shafts/holes do not line up with later motor mounts. You've saved me steps with the pumps and the motor, thank you. I 'll need the extra time soon, I bet, this is one old old machine. The only other missing item besides the motor is the rear access panel, an easy fix. Thank you! | ||
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Post# 629479 , Reply# 6 10/4/2012 at 20:45 (4,220 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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wig wag cam bar needed.
I am in need of the agitate-versus-neutral drain sliding cam shaft bar for a Kenmore Whirlpool, any one from about the mid 50's through the very end of "wig-wag belt drive" Whirlpool/Kenmore's. I have a 1950 model but am updating from the original design pump, and that cam bar was changed in the mid 50's at the same time as they introduced the flapper valve 2 direction pump.
Take a picture and post it, email me, name a price. Thank you | ||
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