Thread Number: 42846
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L |
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Post# 630072 , Reply# 2   10/7/2012 at 19:33 (4,189 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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I decoded you serial # and it appears to be a November 1960 model !
Before you go to much further into "refurbishing" it... Im curious to know if you plan on actually using it? If you are, then I would suggest that you check out Larry's thread, and start by making sure you understand how to use it. One of the first things to do, is to make sure the agitator lifts off (as it's supposed to) Check the two hoses, to make sure there are no holes, ( short hose is the tub to pump hose, the longer is the pump to drain hose) Then water test to make sure it holds water. Start with a couple of buckets full of hot water, if she holds, then add a couple more, if she still holds go ahead and fill, maybe outside if possible (just incase it springs a leak) Plug in and run the agitator (pull nob on front) Engage the pump (On Off side of machine) see if it pumps water out. Maybe go ahead and wash some cleaning rags or such, just to get a feel for it. If you don' t know how to operate the wringer (rollers) let us know, someone will explain. You need to know how to lock and un lock, release tension ect ect. Make sure of all this before painting, or doing the cosmetics. HTH |
Post# 630330 , Reply# 4   10/8/2012 at 20:52 (4,188 days old) by valtone1 ()   |   | |
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The underside |
Post# 630331 , Reply# 5   10/8/2012 at 20:53 (4,188 days old) by valtone1 ()   |   | |
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Inside |
Post# 630339 , Reply# 7   10/8/2012 at 21:32 (4,188 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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shape!
From what I can see, looks like both hose are there! Next would be to check wringer. See if the wringer locks into position, and that the tension lever (on top) works, and that you can release tension, (red bar) and lock wringer rollers apart, so there not touching when machine is not in use. (this is to avoid flat spots from developing) If you need instructions on how to do this let us know. Looks like a Gem to me! |
Post# 630755 , Reply# 11   10/10/2012 at 22:07 (4,186 days old) by valtone1 ()   |   | |
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Ok - I figured out the agitator issue and it is now working fine. I do need some instructions on using the ringer. |
Post# 630759 , Reply# 13   10/10/2012 at 22:18 (4,186 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 630760 , Reply# 14   10/10/2012 at 22:18 (4,186 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 630762 , Reply# 15   10/10/2012 at 22:25 (4,186 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 630766 , Reply# 16   10/10/2012 at 22:45 (4,186 days old) by wetguymd (Maryland)   |   | |
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Post# 630768 , Reply# 17   10/10/2012 at 22:49 (4,186 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 630774 , Reply# 18   10/10/2012 at 23:50 (4,186 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN)   |   | |
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Post# 630784 , Reply# 19   10/11/2012 at 01:44 (4,186 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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the book, or the machine?
Don't know how old the book is, but I think they used the same instruction book for wringers, for quite a few years, the only changes may have been the graphics for the front cover. The machine itself is a 1960 model. Maytag never had Timers on their conventional wringers, including their last one made in 1983. |
Post# 630830 , Reply# 20   10/11/2012 at 08:22 (4,186 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)   |   | |
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I believe Geoff has one with a timer. Very rare but they did make them. |
Post# 630858 , Reply# 22   10/11/2012 at 11:45 (4,186 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 631419 , Reply# 25   10/13/2012 at 23:03 (4,183 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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If you check out Larrys thread, he shows what he did with his! (legs and casters) I did something a little different with mine.
Are yours working, but just need the cosmetics? I have never posted a video here, but others have, so should be fine. (but don't ask me how, I'm not that computer savvy) LOL There's a least three places that you can get the parts for your machine that you listed. I'll see if I can list them for you tomorrow. Larry used the appliance paint on part of his, and was happy with it. If you choose that route, my only suggestion is that you prep by wet sanding first, (as he did) wash and dry, and wipe with a tack cloth. Mask off crown, and use Larry's trick for the LETTERING on the front. You'll also have to think about your existing decals on the machine ( ON OFF ) ect, and decide if you are going to cover, mask off, or replace! My machine is older and had the decal on the front instead of the raised lettering, and was too far gone when I repainted. This decal, as well as the ON OFF decals where important to me to restore, (just my preferrance) The pre sanding is important to get a smooth finish, especially where you have deeper scrapes. ( you want them to be as smooth and blended as possible before paint) If you want more details on the paint, ect, let us know |
Post# 631496 , Reply# 27   10/14/2012 at 10:28 (4,183 days old) by wringer (x)   |   | |
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Geoff for telling us about the timer model and how it works. I have never seen one but as stated earlier I have an instruction book that shows it but doesn't tell anything about it. Jim |
Post# 631516 , Reply# 28   10/14/2012 at 11:43 (4,183 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)   |   | |
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The rare Maytag timer does indeed stop the agitation, but not the motor. So you can't set the timer and go for a drive. This always surprised me as being not too useful, but some of the Speed Queen timers work the same way, while other SQ timers did indeed shut the motor down. Interesting~ model year and price differences.
For the record, most Wringer Timers, KM, WP, Easy. Norge, Blackstone, etc. shut the motor off. You can even set them to drain and turn off automatically, if you need to be on your merry way. (Sometimes I set the Visimatic to drain--with just a couple minutes on the timer, then hide on the basement stairs to make sure it shuts off. (Chuckle.) Really enjoy pumps, hoses, and draining very much, and watching a conventional machine pretend to be an automatic is a lot of fun.
None of the Easy Spindrier timers turn the motor off; in fact, they turn nothing off. Just a nice bell: the eggs are done, but we can't turn the stove off. |
Post# 631603 , Reply# 29   10/14/2012 at 19:39 (4,182 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 631684 , Reply# 30   10/14/2012 at 23:26 (4,182 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 632412 , Reply# 31   10/17/2012 at 20:43 (4,179 days old) by valtone1 ()   |   | |
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Stan - I have read thru Larry's thread - can you share you trick on painting this with a roller vs spray ? Feel free to e-mail me. Anthony |
Post# 632422 , Reply# 32   10/17/2012 at 21:35 (4,179 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 886458 , Reply# 33   6/22/2016 at 16:37 (2,836 days old) by tmcdanel ()   |   | |
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My original drain hose was rotten enough to break. I duct taped it but it leaks pretty bad. What do you recommend to find and retrofit a replacement drain hose? |
Post# 886459 , Reply# 34   6/22/2016 at 16:49 (2,836 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Post# 886931 , Reply# 37   6/25/2016 at 16:47 (2,833 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)   |   | |
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Sorry to hear of your issues. the machine appears to be oil free underneath.
Please read the above thread. And determine exactly where the oil Or grease is coming from. I'm no expert but this is what I learned from my rebuild of my E2LP. And if I've missed anything someone will fill in the blanks and correct my errors. there is no way to add oil to the gear case. from what I have been told. With out dropping and opening the transmission case. With age the grease in the case becomes really thick and hard it is recommended by members to allow the machine to sit with the hottest water you can fill it with for aprox 1 hour. Before running it. There are gaskets in the horizontal wringer case one on the tub side and one at the transmission (gear case). With luck it is leaking from dried up gaskets. This will be a heavy grease. If the water seal that is down and around the agitator shaft is bad well that will cause water in the the gear case to dilute and pump out the breathing hole on top of the horizontal case that goes to the wringer post. |
Post# 887633 , Reply# 38   7/1/2016 at 01:14 (2,827 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Sheryl is right. There is no way to add gear oil to the transmission (power unit) without a tare down. You can also check out Larry's thread titled "moving a maytag E"
In that thread, it shows a well documented and well photographed rebuild with using the correct oils, gaskets ect. Adding oil down the wringer post will not help either. Do as Sheryl has suggested and make sure you know where oil is coming from. Let us know how you make out, or if you need further help |