Thread Number: 42846
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L
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Post# 630060   10/7/2012 at 18:28 (2,084 days old) by valtone1 ()        


I pulled this machine out of my grandmothers basement this weekend. The house is up for sale and I wanted to make sure this was out of it before it sold. I remember her using it as a kid. She has been gone since 1993 and it has been sitting in the basement since them while the house was rented. The serial number is 15334NV. Can anyone tell me what year it is from and if there is anyone in the Elgin, IL ( Chicago suburban area, who would know how to refurbish this - paint and get some of the chrome parts for the wheel area to make it look nice. I plugged it in and it works - sounds very smooth. The ringer rolls also. Is there anything I should re-oil r check. Any help would be appreciated. I have cleaned it up pretty much this weekend. I have more photos at different angles and the underside if anyone is interested in seeing them. Just let me know and I can send them on.


Post# 630064 , Reply# 1   10/7/2012 at 18:58 (2,084 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
Hi Anthony

That looks like mine and it was made in June 1964. That era where they had the lettering M A Y T A G in chrome was early to mid 1960's. You can look at my thread MOVING A MAYTAG E2L. I don't know exactly how to de-code the serial numbers but some members here do. That's how I found out June, 1964.

I have some pictures of a restoration I'm doing including sprucing up the legs and wheels. My problem is I can make them look good. I just can't get them to run!

You can't add oil to anything without taking them apart. It's pretty much a sealed system. Is there evidence of oil leaking? Quote common on these. Also, is the agitator out? If not can you pull on it and remove it? If so, that's a good sign. If not it's a HUGE hassle right out of the gate.

Good Luck!

Post# 630072 , Reply# 2   10/7/2012 at 19:33 (2,084 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
I decoded you serial # and it appears to be a November 1960 model !

Before you go to much further into "refurbishing" it... Im curious to know if you plan on actually using it?
If you are, then I would suggest that you check out Larry's thread, and start by making sure you understand how to use it.
One of the first things to do, is to make sure the agitator lifts off (as it's supposed to) Check the two hoses, to make sure there are no holes, ( short hose is the tub to pump hose, the longer is the pump to drain hose)

Then water test to make sure it holds water. Start with a couple of buckets full of hot water, if she holds, then add a couple more, if she still holds go ahead and fill, maybe outside if possible (just incase it springs a leak) Plug in and run the agitator (pull nob on front) Engage the pump (On Off side of machine) see if it pumps water out.
Maybe go ahead and wash some cleaning rags or such, just to get a feel for it.

If you don' t know how to operate the wringer (rollers) let us know, someone will explain. You need to know how to lock and un lock, release tension ect ect.
Make sure of all this before painting, or doing the cosmetics.


Post# 630329 , Reply# 3   10/8/2012 at 20:51 (2,083 days old) by valtone1 ()        
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L

Thanks for the info - yes the agitator does lift off. I will do the water test on the weekend. I'm only seeing 1 hose though. It has a chrome hook and hooks off the right back corner. I'm posting a few more photos of the side and underside.

Post# 630330 , Reply# 4   10/8/2012 at 20:52 (2,083 days old) by valtone1 ()        
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L

The underside

Post# 630331 , Reply# 5   10/8/2012 at 20:53 (2,083 days old) by valtone1 ()        
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L


Post# 630335 , Reply# 6   10/8/2012 at 21:09 (2,083 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
That's a E2LP

The P is for pump model which is what that hose with the hook is connected to. You'll need a hose to connect to the sink to fill it or you can fill by bucket. That lever on the lower side turns the pump on and off. Left is off, right is on. Make sure it's off when you add water because if it's plugged in it with pump that water right back out and can make a mess if the hose goose neck isn't over a sink. If your faucet is threaded you can get a hose to fill it at Ace or anywhere really. If not threaded there are still hoses that will work.

That machine looks to be in VERY good condition. Mine had lots of dirt, oil and grease under it. Plus the fact that the agitator comes off easily shows this machine was properly taken care of. I'll bet you've got a good little runner there, The only caution is that sometimes after they've been sitting unused for a long time th e gaskets dry up and can leak. I'd run it empty a few minutes a day to get things all oiled up internally.

Also, the fact that this thing isn't all greasy and oily underneath means it's not a leaker and you don't need to worry about adding oil. If I still lived in Elmhurst I'd be interested in buying this little gem! Some of these that were owned and cared for by Grandmothers, that knew how to use and take care of them, are the best one's still out there.

Post# 630339 , Reply# 7   10/8/2012 at 21:32 (2,083 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Looks to be in excellent

stan's profile picture

From what I can see, looks like both hose are there!

Next would be to check wringer. See if the wringer locks into position, and that the tension lever (on top) works, and that you can release tension, (red bar) and lock wringer rollers apart, so there not touching when machine is not in use. (this is to avoid flat spots from developing)

If you need instructions on how to do this let us know.

Looks like a Gem to me!

Post# 630395 , Reply# 8   10/9/2012 at 08:20 (2,083 days old) by wringer (x)        
Nice find !!

She looks very clean and the tub doesn't appear to be very tarnished. What has been said above by Larry and Stan is very true. Larry has had a BIG job restoring his E. You should read his thread from top to bottom for all of the info contained in it. Best of luck and happy washing. She just needs a good spa treatment it appears.


Post# 630731 , Reply# 9   10/10/2012 at 19:49 (2,081 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
Hey Anthony

A couple of other things you should know. These machines should remain upright or the oil from the power unit vent will leak out. If you have to lay it down for some reason, you can only lay it front side down. The side with the M A Y T A G on it.

Also, you can easily remove the wringer. Swing it away from the tub. Then it just lifts straight out. It slides back in the same way. But be careful. It is heavy!


Post# 630753 , Reply# 10   10/10/2012 at 21:51 (2,081 days old) by valtone1 ()        
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L


In response to Larry's last comment. Would you see oil leaking out if it was leaking because it was laid down as it was carried up the stairs to the truck. My other question is , the last 2 days I have plugged it in the agitator was going back and forth. After reading your suggestion to run it a bit a day to get things lubed up , today I came home and while the motor sounded the same and the belt as far as I could see was moving, the agitator was not moving at all. I moved it back and forth by had slightly and it started moving just a bit back and forth but not like it used to. Any suggestions ......


Post# 630755 , Reply# 11   10/10/2012 at 22:07 (2,081 days old) by valtone1 ()        
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L

Ok - I figured out the agitator issue and it is now working fine. I do need some instructions on using the ringer.

Post# 630758 , Reply# 12   10/10/2012 at 22:17 (2,081 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
To run

the agitator the chrome knob in front has to be pulled out. Out is agitator engaged, pushed in is agitator dis-engaged.

Do you see any oil leaks? If not you don't have a problem. If you had a little leak from moving it, that shouldn't have leaked enough to cause a problem either. Check out the agitator on/off knob and let us know!

Post# 630759 , Reply# 13   10/10/2012 at 22:18 (2,081 days old) by qsd-dan ((SF Bay Area))        
I do need some instructions on using the ringer.

qsd-dan's profile picture
Straight from the horses mouth.

Post# 630760 , Reply# 14   10/10/2012 at 22:18 (2,081 days old) by qsd-dan ((SF Bay Area))        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Page 2

Post# 630762 , Reply# 15   10/10/2012 at 22:25 (2,081 days old) by qsd-dan ((SF Bay Area))        

qsd-dan's profile picture
You may have to right click and save the images to your computer in order to zoom in and read the smaller text.

Post# 630766 , Reply# 16   10/10/2012 at 22:45 (2,081 days old) by wetguymd (Maryland)        
I have never seen

wetguymd's profile picture
a Maytag wringer with a timer.... has anyone else?

Post# 630768 , Reply# 17   10/10/2012 at 22:49 (2,081 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Have you

stan's profile picture
water tested yet? and checked pump to see if it's working?

Post# 630774 , Reply# 18   10/10/2012 at 23:50 (2,081 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN)        
A Timer??

scoots's profile picture
I've never seen a timer either... Judging from the style of the graphics, the book looks like it's post war. Any chance this was a short lived item from the late 40's, early 50's?

Post# 630784 , Reply# 19   10/11/2012 at 01:44 (2,081 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
the book, or the machine?

Don't know how old the book is, but I think they used the same instruction book for wringers, for quite a few years, the only changes may have been the graphics for the front cover.
The machine itself is a 1960 model.
Maytag never had Timers on their conventional wringers, including their last one made in 1983.

Post# 630830 , Reply# 20   10/11/2012 at 08:22 (2,081 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
I beg to differ!

I believe Geoff has one with a timer. Very rare but they did make them.

Post# 630837 , Reply# 21   10/11/2012 at 08:48 (2,081 days old) by wringer (x)        
I have

an instruction book that does have a diagram of a timer on the machine. I have never seen one of these nor has the Amish ever seen one and they have hundreds of them. If Geoff has one maybe he will tell us about it. If I remember correctly it is down towards one of the legs. I will have to dig out my manuals and see about this. This is a good question for all of us Maytag Wringer fans. Thanks for asking !! Geoff?

Best! Jim

Post# 630858 , Reply# 22   10/11/2012 at 11:45 (2,081 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
That I have

stan's profile picture
to see! and know more about!

Geoff show us this!

Post# 631313 , Reply# 23   10/13/2012 at 15:01 (2,078 days old) by valtone1 ()        
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L

I filled it with water today and threw some clothes in it.

There was a slight dripping leak underneath,( 1 drip every 7-10 seconds) but I think it might be from one of the hoses.
When I went to drain it I moved the lever and nothing happened for the first 3 times I flipped the switch. Then I unhooked the hose figuring it may need some gravity pull to start. I unhooked the hose and lowered it towards the ground and it started draining slightly but I thought it should be pumping out much harder, as I walked around the tub, it seemed like the pump kicked in. BINGO. I do believe I need a new metal hose top as it was leaking from the connection at the top as it was pumping out.

I'd like to repaint it and replace the chrome ankles and wheels. Are these difficult to take apart to paint ?

Any suggestions on where to get some authentic replacement parts - Chrome ankles, wheels, belt, Chrome hose top hook.

Does this forum allow videos to be posted - If so I can post a few.

Post# 631392 , Reply# 24   10/13/2012 at 21:19 (2,078 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        

My thread MOVING A MAYTAG E2L. A lot of your questions are covered in my thread over the last 8 weeks since I brought this home.

Luckily your machine is in great condition thanks to your Grandmother taking good care of it.

Just needs some cosmetics to disguise her age. I sanded, primed and painted mine. Some like the wringer assembly I sanded, primed and painted using Rust-Oleum Appliance White Epoxy paint. I'm really happy with the results. Some I painted with the Rust-Oleum from the can, again happy with the result. Stan can help you with that. I used his method.

Here's a picture after the paint job. Note I also have redone the leg extensions and casters.

Post# 631419 , Reply# 25   10/13/2012 at 23:03 (2,078 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi valtone

stan's profile picture
If you check out Larrys thread, he shows what he did with his! (legs and casters) I did something a little different with mine.
Are yours working, but just need the cosmetics?

I have never posted a video here, but others have, so should be fine. (but don't ask me how, I'm not that computer savvy) LOL

There's a least three places that you can get the parts for your machine that you listed. I'll see if I can list them for you tomorrow.

Larry used the appliance paint on part of his, and was happy with it. If you choose that route, my only suggestion is that you prep by wet sanding first, (as he did) wash and dry, and wipe with a tack cloth. Mask off crown, and use Larry's trick for the LETTERING on the front. You'll also have to think about your existing decals on the machine ( ON OFF ) ect, and decide if you are going to cover, mask off, or replace!

My machine is older and had the decal on the front instead of the raised lettering, and was too far gone when I repainted. This decal, as well as the ON OFF decals where important to me to restore, (just my preferrance)

The pre sanding is important to get a smooth finish, especially where you have deeper scrapes. ( you want them to be as smooth and blended as possible before paint)

If you want more details on the paint, ect, let us know

Post# 631466 , Reply# 26   10/14/2012 at 07:47 (2,078 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Hi guys (or gals) ...

Valtone1 ... your machine is very nice; you should follow everyone's advice and fix it up and keep it. Larry knows what he's doing now with taking apart and re-gasketing, lubricating, etc. He'll be a great resource on this thread.

I'm not going to hijack this thread but yes, I have a 1948 Model E2LPT. The "T" stands for timer and it works nicely. You start the timer and pull out the agitator control. When it's finished, you hear a bell and then a mechanism with a plunger pushes the agitator control back in to stop the washing action. This machine has the cast aluminum tub and it is h-e-a-v-y.

The machine I have needs work; not much but some. I would like to try to finish before the snow flies here in Minnesota. I don't do much resto work in the winter; the garage is too cold and I don't like the parts cleaner smell or lacquer thinner smell in the basement.

I'll try to do some photos as I move along with it shortly. I will also start a new thread when I'm ready to show it off. Redcarpetdrew will love it!! :-)

Post# 631496 , Reply# 27   10/14/2012 at 10:28 (2,078 days old) by wringer (x)        

Geoff for telling us about the timer model and how it works. I have never seen one but as stated earlier I have an instruction book that shows it but doesn't tell anything about it.


Post# 631516 , Reply# 28   10/14/2012 at 11:43 (2,078 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Nice machine, Anthony. These guys will be a great help.

mickeyd's profile picture

The rare Maytag timer does indeed stop the agitation, but not the motor. So you can't set the timer and go for a drive. This always surprised me as being not too useful, but some of the Speed Queen timers work the same way, while other SQ timers did indeed shut the motor down. Interesting~ model year and price differences.


For the record, most Wringer Timers, KM, WP, Easy. Norge, Blackstone, etc. shut the motor off. You can even set them to drain and turn off automatically, if you need to be on your merry way. (Sometimes I set the Visimatic to drain--with just a couple minutes on the timer, then hide on the basement stairs to make sure it shuts off. (Chuckle.) Really enjoy pumps, hoses, and draining very much, and watching a conventional machine pretend to be an automatic is a lot of fun.


None of the Easy Spindrier timers turn the motor off; in fact, they turn nothing off. Just a nice bell: the eggs are done, but we can't turn the stove off.

Post# 631603 , Reply# 29   10/14/2012 at 19:39 (2,077 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Well I'll be

stan's profile picture
I learned something new! I've never known one with a timer!!

Can't wait til you show us Geoff!
How many did they make with that option?

Post# 631684 , Reply# 30   10/14/2012 at 23:26 (2,077 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Heres are some sources for parts.

Phil's Maytag phone cell 315-246-246-5518. shop 607-869-2263

If you google them, you'll find phone #s for the last two. I've used all three for one thing or another.

Post# 632412 , Reply# 31   10/17/2012 at 20:43 (2,074 days old) by valtone1 ()        
Maytag Gyratator Washer E2L

Stan - I have read thru Larry's thread - can you share you trick on painting this with a roller vs spray ? Feel free to e-mail me.


Post# 632422 , Reply# 32   10/17/2012 at 21:35 (2,074 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
I'll email you in a bit.

Post# 886458 , Reply# 33   6/22/2016 at 16:37 (730 days old) by tmcdanel (Rimini, Montana)        
Need drain hose

My original drain hose was rotten enough to break. I duct taped it but it leaks pretty bad.

What do you recommend to find and retrofit a replacement drain hose?

Post# 886459 , Reply# 34   6/22/2016 at 16:49 (730 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Do youse mean dis?

launderess's profile picture
Post# 886634 , Reply# 35   6/23/2016 at 19:40 (729 days old) by tmcdanel (Rimini, Montana)        
Do youse mean dis?

Laundress wrote:
Pipe: ...

Yeh, i guess. But with shipping, it costs more than the washing machine. I shall look elsewhere.

Post# 886912 , Reply# 36   6/25/2016 at 14:02 (727 days old) by tmcdanel (Rimini, Montana)        
How to add oil to the Gyratator E2L transmission?

I have oil leaks around the transmission. It probably hasn't been maintained in more than 30 years and it sounds terrible.

How do you check the oil?
How do you add oil?
Can you simply pour transmission oil down the wringer drive shaft housing?
(i mean it looks like it is all connected.)

What weight of oil?
Can i use automotive automatic transmission fluid?
(I think it is "F" class, whatever that means.)

Post# 886931 , Reply# 37   6/25/2016 at 16:47 (727 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thread Number: 31181 Maytag E2L oil leak?

tinkr's profile picture
Sorry to hear of your issues. the machine appears to be oil free underneath.

Please read the above thread. And determine exactly where the oil Or grease is coming from.
I'm no expert but this is what I learned from my rebuild of my E2LP.
And if I've missed anything someone will fill in the blanks and correct my errors.

there is no way to add oil to the gear case. from what I have been told.
With out dropping and opening the transmission case.

With age the grease in the case becomes really thick and hard it is recommended by members to allow the machine to sit with the hottest water you can fill it with for aprox 1 hour. Before running it.

There are gaskets in the horizontal wringer case one on the tub side and one at the transmission (gear case). With luck it is leaking from dried up gaskets. This will be a heavy grease.

If the water seal that is down and around the agitator shaft is bad well that will cause water in the the gear case to dilute and pump out the breathing hole on top of the horizontal case that goes to the wringer post.

Post# 887633 , Reply# 38   7/1/2016 at 01:14 (722 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Sheryl is right. There is no way to add gear oil to the transmission (power unit) without a tare down. You can also check out Larry's thread titled "moving a maytag E"
In that thread, it shows a well documented and well photographed rebuild with using the correct oils, gaskets ect. Adding oil down the wringer post will not help either. Do as Sheryl has suggested and make sure you know where oil is coming from.
Let us know how you make out, or if you need further help

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