Thread Number: 42975
Hot synthetic washes (e.g. White Nylon 60)... |
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Post# 632373 , Reply# 1   10/17/2012 at 17:25 (4,208 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Allows high temps to be selected for "Permanent Press" but that cycle does a special series of cool down rinses and does not spin between the three main rinses. It also stops and hold the final rinse water unless programmed to continue with final spin (series of three short pulse spins).
Long as one does not allow man made fibers to cool or otherwise stretch/mis-shape them with heat creasing or damage shouldn't be a problem. However YMMV. When doing such loads it is best to under fill the machine by half or less. You want to give items plenty of room to move about. This will go along way in reducing creases. |
Post# 632574 , Reply# 4   10/18/2012 at 11:54 (4,207 days old) by MatthewZA (Cape Town, South Africa)   |   | |
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I wash towels on synthetic 60 in my LG because the water level is higher for wash and rinse and its a few mins shorter than cottons 60. But I wash linen on cotton 60 because the tumbles are a bit stronger. I suppose it boils down to personal preference |
Post# 632593 , Reply# 5   10/18/2012 at 13:52 (4,207 days old) by chrisbsuk (Bristol, uk)   |   | |
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...my Maytag (a rebadged Asko) offers synthetic cycles of cold, 30*, 40*, 50*, 60* & 95*.
I use the 50*c for work shirts, and 30*c for things like t-shirts etc Quite a quick cycle (around an hr), with 4 rinses, high level, no interim spins, and a final short spin off 800 RPM (which is fixed, sadly) If i am tumble drying, I normally run the load through a 1400 RPM spin after the cycle has finished |
Post# 632651 , Reply# 6   10/18/2012 at 18:05 (4,207 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Being thermoplastic only normally occurs if the fibers are heated beyond a certain point, creased then cooled quickly which sets the new "shape". For this reason most every automatic washing machine since the invention of "wash and wear" fabrics have invented ways of cooling down the wash before any sort of extraction (spinning) took place.
The original name for these fabrics was "drip dry" which is quite honestly the best way of dealing with such items. Wash in warm or hot water, gradually cool down to cold by rinsing, then either gently extract (low spin speed) or simply hang up to dry. Mad made fibers tend to resist water and hold onto oils/soils.This is one of the reasons they are so difficult to keep clean. Man made fiber textiles and or blends usually start to look dingy and or not smell as fresh after laundering if done in mainly cool or cold water washing. To compensate for this many commmerical laundries will add special surfactants and or increase the detergent ratio for man made textile or blend loads to get them cleaner when using lower wash temps. |
Post# 633205 , Reply# 9   10/21/2012 at 08:27 (4,204 days old) by l86810 (Southend, UK)   |   | |
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From my experience Synthetics do not simply crease by being washed at high temperatures, but by being spun at high temperatures.
This is why the machine will cool down first... and then spin, or simply not spin after the wash until a cold rinse has taken place as my old Hoover used to do. I've washed poly cotton bed sheets at 95oC before as never experienced irreversible creasing |
Post# 633294 , Reply# 11   10/21/2012 at 16:57 (4,204 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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In a front loader for man made fibers normally require two things; lots of water and room for items to move.
The manual for my older Miele washer states for PP fabrics and when using that cycle to load drum half or under full. This gives washing plenty room to move about and "float" in water which in theory should prevent creasing. Next this Miele uses lots of water for the wash (about five gallons) and nearly 11 even gallons per rinse (three in PP), this does not count the sequence of fills and drains that are part of the cooling down rinses that start at wash cycle's end. This is quite allot of water and haven't had any creasing yet say with Prada items. OTOH today's modern washers that use so little water, then yes you may have some problems using high or very high wash temps. |
Post# 633472 , Reply# 12   10/22/2012 at 16:41 (4,203 days old) by logixx (Germany)   |   | |
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I recently washed a large load on Perm Press at 60C / 140F. While the washer did a cool-down at the end of the wash, it also seriously over-washed my clothes during the main wash that lasted for two hours (extended due to the oversized load). Probably the last time I used that cycle.
That's what a cool-down looks like (this is Bulky Items but PP uses the same water level). |
Post# 634399 , Reply# 13   10/26/2012 at 04:17 (4,199 days old) by hotpointfan (United Kingdom)   |   | |
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My Hoover SE220 from 1999 has a 60* Mixed Fabrics cycle and a 50* Synthetics cycle. Both of those cycles have a single line under the temperature sign on the draw indicating a medium agitation synthetics wash. The machine has not been plumbed in yet and so I have not been able to test either of these cycles but I believe they are going to be very similar, but some differences may occur. I will probably use the mixed fabrics cycle for blankets and throws, and sometimes bedding as I evenly mix between washing on synthetics and cotton washes, at 60*.
Our current daily driver, a 2004 Bosch, has easycare cycles 30,40,60, of which they all use plenty of water for smaller loads and medium loads as well. The machine takes up to twenty minutes to heat up to the chosen temperature on easycare, but I feel that its not washing them for long enough once it has heated. |