I recently replaced a cracked drain impeller on my KDS-18. Now, the motor bearings are "singing" very loudly during running (a whine, not a screech).
I purchased a new motor from ebay with the starting relay and bench tested it, and it works fine. It also came with a tub seal and the shim kit / impeller. The original motor appears to be the type without the starting relay.
My question is - how do I remove the motor and pump assembly without having to pull the dishwasher out? Are there clips that I can throw to get it out? Also, does anyone happen to know the shim procedure for the impellers? It didn't come with the gauge and I know that you have to shim at least the bottom drain impeller and perhaps the pump impeller up in the wash arm support but I don't know the clearances. Any help would really be appreciated.
My wife is convinced that I'm nuts, but this is such a nice machine I am reluctant to part with it. I've replaced the fill valve and various other things, and the timer appears to work perfectly. I don't want the motor to lock up with a failed bearing and fry the timer contacts, so I'd like to get it fixed up pretty soon. It has given me over a decade of reliable service since I bought the house.
Post# 657942 , Reply# 1 2/3/2013 at 22:12 (4,098 days old) by stevet(West Melbourne, FL)
The pump assembly comes out thru the tank.But first remove the wash arm support, and the wash and drain impellers from the motor shaft. Take note of which shims and how many go where as there can be 2 sets of them and they are not the same diameter.
Yes, you release 3 spring clips that hold the motor in place and disconnect the drain hose that goes to the drain valve and then remove the clamp that secures the tube on the left of the motor that supplies the upper wash arm and constant rinse assembly. You can use a small block of wood to wedge under the motor itself and pry it up. It will release and be removable from inside the tank.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the motor to the pump plate and then reassemble your new motor to the plate. Put some anti-seize compound on the screws so you can get them out easier the next time.
You will need to shim the seal and drain impeller and it should have come with the seal that came with the motor. It is a white plastic gauge. If you don't have it, let me know and I can mail it to you for your use. Did you get instructions for shimming it? If not, please advise.
At this point, you can shim the seals and impeller and install the wash arm support and then reassemble the whole pump as a complete unit.
When reinstalling the motor, clean the sump area that the rubber seal goes into and then generously lubricate the gasket with liquid dish soap and push it down into the sump. reconnect the clips and lock them to pull it down completely and then reconnect the hoses and wires per the instructions that come with the motor.
Put some water in the tank to make sure the seal doesnt leak and then run a risne and hold to see if it is not leaking when the motor runs.
Your old motor is easily rebuilt. Just be really careful with the motor cooling fan which is plastic. It has to be removed to install new bearings and since it is plastic, you have to be careful not to break it.
The bearings are available, just ask me for the number of the bearing and you can get them at Hobart or any good bearing house. Just make sure that you get sealed bearings.
Hope this helps
Steve
Post# 658478 , Reply# 2 2/6/2013 at 14:40 (4,095 days old) by 1zenerdiode ()
stevet - thanks for such a detailed reply. Yes, I have the rigid white plastic gauge with the notches, and I did some diggging in the papers packed with the motor and it appears I do have instructions for shimming and installing the drain impeller.
However, I don't have instructions for the clearance check on the upper pump impeller (I do have the feeler gauge which is much thinner and more flexible than the drain impeller gauge). I've had that apart in the past so I don't trust that it is properly adjusted right now.
I'll certainly keep the old motor if the bearings can be replaced.
One other question - I've removed the black panel closest to the floor in the past. Should I also remove the front panel above that below the door? If so, any special considerations in doing so?
Thanks again and kind regards,
~1zd
Post# 658525 , Reply# 3 2/6/2013 at 17:24 (4,095 days old) by STEVET(West Melbourne, FL)
Remove the lower panel so you will be able to get your arms in there to get at the clips. If you have never done this before, you will probably wish you had removed the whole machine to do this job the first time. It can be a bit harrowing and there are lots of wires you need to be careful of and make sure if they come off that you have put them back where they belong.
Are those feeler gauges made of plastic as well? There are 2 of them stapled together and they are the wash impeller gauges. I will look in the manual and see what the specs are for it. I will try to scan the pages and either post them here or send them to you.
>> Are those feeler gauges made of plastic as well? There are 2 of them stapled
>> together and they are the wash impeller gauges.
Yes, exactly. If you happen to have instructions in relation to it, that would be assume. Even just a summary. I can measure the gauge and compare to the shim washers. However, after having seen it in the distant past, I seem to recall something about buttoning it up and gauging it with the upper part of the wash impeller housing installed (making sure gauging is being performed with appropriate thrust load on the wash impeller / motor shaft??)...
Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Most helpful.
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