Maytag Damper Pad Instructions?

I did this on my parents HA806 when I went through it last year. You'll need to start by removing the cabinet, but that's not nearly as hard as it sounds. Once the cabinet is off, mark the position of all of the nuts that keep tension on the centering springs, then loosen the springs until you're able to disconnect them from the tub braces. At this point the tub is free to wobble around so watch out for that. Now you'll want to tip the tub and base plate back far enough that you'll be able to slip a wooden block(perhaps a short piece of 4x4 from a lumber yard) under the center of the machine. Now when you lower the base plate and tub back down, the brake assembly will come to rest on the block, thereby lifting the damper assembly up away from the base plate high enough that you should be able to replace the pads. If you try to do this with the cabinet in place, the tub cover will crash into the underside of the top panel before you get the clearance you need to reach the damper pads. When you reassemble everything, make sure to run the nuts for the centering springs back to the marked positions. I know it sounds a bit involved, but it really does sound worse than it is. I haven't tried searching through the archives on this, but you may find that someone's already documented this process here. I hope this helps.


Forum Topics & Rules Manuals & Literature	New users Click-here to sign-up

Post# 658076 2/4/2013 at 16:20 (4,088 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)
Checkrate/Likes Hola! Does anyone here have a link to a really good explanation (hopefully with pictures) of the damper pad replacement procedure on Maytag washers? I need to tackle this on an early (ca. 1968) A806. I understand there's a way to do it without removal of the brake package, which is how I need to do it. I've come a long way with AW members' tutelage, but I'm not that good yet. Any help would be welcome - pads, Polylube and adhesive are on the way! Also belts and motor glides, but that's another story....

Post# 658081 , Reply# 1 2/4/2013 at 17:04 (4,088 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))
Checkrate/Likes 1 I did this on my parents HA806 when I went through it last year. You'll need to start by removing the cabinet, but that's not nearly as hard as it sounds. Once the cabinet is off, mark the position of all of the nuts that keep tension on the centering springs, then loosen the springs until you're able to disconnect them from the tub braces. At this point the tub is free to wobble around so watch out for that. Now you'll want to tip the tub and base plate back far enough that you'll be able to slip a wooden block(perhaps a short piece of 4x4 from a lumber yard) under the center of the machine. Now when you lower the base plate and tub back down, the brake assembly will come to rest on the block, thereby lifting the damper assembly up away from the base plate high enough that you should be able to replace the pads. If you try to do this with the cabinet in place, the tub cover will crash into the underside of the top panel before you get the clearance you need to reach the damper pads. When you reassemble everything, make sure to run the nuts for the centering springs back to the marked positions. I know it sounds a bit involved, but it really does sound worse than it is. I haven't tried searching through the archives on this, but you may find that someone's already documented this process here. I hope this helps.

Post# 658088 , Reply# 2 2/4/2013 at 17:47 (4,088 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)
Checkrate/Likes 2 It's not essential to remove the cabinet although it does give you more room to work. The key to doing it this way is to tape the lid down and then remove the 2 bolts that hold the cover down. That way the cover can hinge up the 2-3 inches and give you enough clearance. Here is the process as described in a Maytag service manual.

Post# 658090 , Reply# 3 2/4/2013 at 17:58 (4,088 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))
Checkrate/Likes Wow. Talk about a cramped work space. I think I'd rather just pull the cabinet off. LOL

Post# 658102 , Reply# 4 2/4/2013 at 19:28 (4,088 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)
Checkrate/Likes *Aiiiiiiiiiii!* Mark - thanks for the manual page. It makes it much more clear - if no less intimidating to a neophyte like me. I shall persevere. I think.

Post# 658107 , Reply# 5 2/4/2013 at 19:44 (4,088 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)
Checkrate/Likes I did it with the cabinet still on. I DID raise the to and make sure it was propped against the wall behind the machine. This allowed the tub assembly to "raise" high enough to reach the pads. Tho the removal of the cabinet method does allow you more all around room.

Post# 1106383 , Reply# 6 1/31/2021 at 14:52 (1,170 days old) by madzack (Fresno)
Checkrate/Likes 2 Thanks for the great information. Was able to purchase the Maytag adhesive along with a package of three felt damper pads that comes with three little packets of Molykote 111 Compound, one for each pad, for my LA806 Series 2 Maytag washer from my local appliance parts store. I replaced them using the above 4X4 method. I admit it would have been easier without the cabinet but it is doable without removing it. Of course of two the eyebolt spring retainers broke even after soaking them in penetrating rust remover. I was able to salvage two of the three special retaining nuts but was not able to drill out the third and it is temporarily replaced with a 3/4�� washer and nut. Am looking for a replacement so I don�t have to climb under the washer to rebalance in the future. Washer now spins without dancing all over the room even when it�s a little out of balance.