Thread Number: 44972
Add insulation to new front loader to assist internal water heater?
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Post# 659524   2/11/2013 at 00:55 (4,063 days old) by johnmk ()        

Hi folks,

I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to add some insulation to the interior of the LG WM3470 I picked up a few weeks ago. I live in the Seattle area and my laundry room's in a cool room -- I notice that during hot cycles, such as Allergiene, a great deal of heat dissipates through the top of the washer, and opening up the washer reveals there's no insulation anywhere, and I doubt that the drum itself is significantly insulating, so there's probably ample room for improvement.

I opened up the top of the clothes washer to peer inside, and I'm seeing that there might be two locations where insulation would be most naturally placed. First, there's the top lid of the washer that looks to be about 1.5" thick/tall when it's on the clothes washer, but taken off and flipped over, it's hollow inside, like a shoe box. So there's room in there for insulation sized approximately 26.5" wide by 29" deep by 1" thick. The other possibility is the drum itself, which looks ripe for insulation wrapping in similar fashion to how hot water tanks are insulated in every household.

Given that I'm in the U.S., so my washer runs on 120v, the internal water heater needs all the help it can get. Frankly I find it surprising that the enclosure and drum appear to be completely uninsulated, as insulation would not only allow for greater energy efficiency but would decrease cycle time as well. I was literally shocked when I opened it up -- I expected to see at least token insulation but there's nothing whatsoever, just the thin metal of the machine's external enclosure.

What do you fine folks think about my thoughts here? Can you give me any pointers before I embark upon this project?

Thank you!

-John





Post# 659525 , Reply# 1   2/11/2013 at 01:03 (4,063 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
I can see no downside to adding insulation. Or justification for omitting it in a heated machine. At production volumes, couldn't have added more than a dollar to the unit cost.

Post# 659546 , Reply# 2   2/11/2013 at 06:28 (4,062 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        
You are wise to consider this.

I guess the main thing you would have to consider is how to attach it securely so that the vibration from spinning did not shake it loose if you put it around the outer tub. Were you thinking of using Fiberglass batting like the plastic-faced water heater wrap or foam? The plastic outer tubs in some new FL washers provide some thermal insulation, but I doubt that is the reason the plastic is used.

Post# 659564 , Reply# 3   2/11/2013 at 10:02 (4,062 days old) by johnmk ()        

The vibration problem . . . I think that's the most difficult part of all of this. If I don't do it correctly, the possibilities for damage are significant. Imagine a piece of insulation flying semi-loose but still adhered on one side, potentially rubbing against a hose somewhere, sawing through it, creating a major water leak.

The argument for leaving things as they are is pretty compelling, given that I'm certainly no expert in the design theory of these machines. For the moment at least, I'm more inclined towards insulating the top and possibly the sides of the enclosure, keeping everything as far away from the drum as possible, and adhered with multiple mechanisms to prevent any insulation from flying loose.


Post# 659620 , Reply# 4   2/11/2013 at 12:26 (4,062 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
insulating a washer, wether its a FLer or TLER, should be nothing to it, or always have on any machine I have done.....

simple and yet effective two ways, one for the insulation of heat retention factor, and second, the noise reduction factor.....

two things I have used, thick foam as used for a bed such as eggcrate style.....or water heater jacket type......simple trimming where necessary for hoses, and most important do not cover things like pumps or motors that need air to breathe and cool down...use common sense for each application

using either duct tape or aluminum tape to secure it in place, wrapped completely around the outter drum.....

others have just glued insulation to the cabinet itself, but thats more for noise control than heat retention...


Post# 659643 , Reply# 5   2/11/2013 at 14:36 (4,062 days old) by johnmk ()        

I have plenty of John Mansville-brand ComfortTherm. Soft white stuff with an R-value between 11 and 13, 3.5" or so thickness -- I believe it can be squeezed down to size in a few of the tighter places that might require it. Another option that's totally inflexible is some 1.5" polystyrene pink foam boards I have that can be cut to shape. I think it's too thick for my application tho. I really need it to be 1" at most in thickness, or I just need something more flexible and spongy in general like the ComfortTherm I mentioned above.

Will check out Home Depot and get some ideas. By the way, when handling ComfortTherm, should I wear a filtering respirator or face mask or something?


Post# 659681 , Reply# 6   2/11/2013 at 17:18 (4,062 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
The insulation in my new water heater is some kind of synthetic, NOT fiberglass, requires no special handling. I don't know what it's called.

Post# 660159 , Reply# 7   2/13/2013 at 15:48 (4,060 days old) by DaveTranter (Central England)        
Who says advertising doesn't pay??

Not wishing to state the obvious (though to be honest, I doubt that I would have thought of it), one of the adverts which heads this thread is for 'spray-on' foam insulation..... Put it where you want, as thick or thin as you want and sticks like the proverbial.... erm...... 'launderer's nightmare'.

I think with the ever-rising cost of electricity nowadays, insulation is something we should all consider, especially for the 'daily drive'..

All best

Dave T



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