Thread Number: 45793
Dubbed down or dumbed down hot water wash
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Post# 669810   4/2/2013 at 05:29 (4,035 days old) by retro-man (- boston,ma)        

I see constantly people complaining about this feature on new top load washers. How does this work. Is there a seperate mixing valve, a temp sensor in the flow, in the outside tub? I have not seen anyones explanation on how this works, nor have I seen any info on how to disable this, and get truly tap hot water into the wash. There must be a way to disconnect something or bypass. The reason I am bringing this up is I have one machine a Frigidare unit washer on bottom and dryer is connected on top that "had" this feature but stopped working about 5 months ago. I only get hot water on the hot settings now. So something stopped working along the way. If this washer can "fix" itself we should as a group here find what causes the mixing and "fix" it to our ways of doing laundry. I also have a maytag centennial top loader that I would like to "fix" since its not doing itself. Would be interested to hear from all the great talent on here about this.
Jon





Post# 669815 , Reply# 1   4/2/2013 at 06:12 (4,035 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture
There can be sensors either in the flow or in the tub. Once the temp exceeds a certain threshold, cold water it added.

Post# 669816 , Reply# 2   4/2/2013 at 06:24 (4,035 days old) by washer111 ()        
You Could:

What I've mentioned before is that you could perhaps install a tempering valve to the cold supply, to bring it up to 100º or more (for example). That way, when the washer goes to add cold water (or tries to, hehe), it will only mildly affect the hot temperature. At least thats my theory. I'm not sure whether the smarter crop of washers would throw error codes and what-not. 

 

I think the F&P QuickSmart washer (BOL model) does not use ATC, as the website indicates it. The user guide "warns" the operator that the machine will use water as hot as the water in the tap. So buy this machine for no ATC... Lol


Post# 669820 , Reply# 3   4/2/2013 at 07:21 (4,035 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
it varies by machine, some are as complicated by computer control, which you CAN NOT override....

others simple use of an in-hose sensor, that can be removed....others cannot

and some just use a restrictor in the valve....some "pop' out, others you may have to drill, and some you can't change at all.....

I have a Frigidaire Fler, when I first got it, the temp regulation worked, then I would only get HOT when HOT was selected, WARM and COLD gave all COLD water....they switched out the water valves, the tempering unit is no longer there, and the sensor plug is pushed into a blank space...since then it has been true water temps as available from my taps


Post# 669850 , Reply# 4   4/2/2013 at 09:18 (4,035 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
you could also wash in cold water

pierreandreply4's profile picture
you could also wash in cold water only as you would get the same cleaning power as there is no diffrence on what the wash water temp is i wash only in cold water and see no diffrence in cleaning power.

Post# 669873 , Reply# 5   4/2/2013 at 10:13 (4,035 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
it's funny...we're going in the other direction.....when ATC first came out, it was to regulate WARM and COLD washes so that detergents were more effective than water that was too WARM/COLD.....

now were going into ENERGY efficent...and dubbing down the WARM temps into the coldest wash possible....the problem is its forced on us, rather than let us choose according to our load type, cooler temps can be used for certain lightly soiled loads, and there are times you need a true HOT wash...

and we have all seen the effects of water that was too COLD.....or just at Freezing...for both cleaning and the damage to machines...

COLD can be used, but not for every load, best left for rinsing!

NO ONE is washing Construction or a Mechanics clothes in COLD water and getting them clean.....I have tried.....not happenning!


Post# 669884 , Reply# 6   4/2/2013 at 11:31 (4,035 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
I am horrified by the dumbed-down, ridiculously low water temps on some new washers and dishwashers.

A review on a middle-of-the-line Frigidaire front-loader listed the "hottest water setting" on the Normal cycle to be 80 degrees. That's for the hottest setting! 80 degrees is cool---not even warm---in my book. I would never, ever recommend purchasing a washer that has no internal water heater. The well-documented 85-115 degree maximum water temp on my Immersion Care top-loader is a deal-breaker for me. I filled the machine manually with hot water (to the low water level for a smallish load of whites) and it actually cleaned very well on the default 58-minute Normal cycle. However, it sensed something was not right and didn't do the brief spins during the wash period---something that is crucial for both forcing sudsy water through the fabric, and to reposition the load for even cleaning when the lowest water level is used.

The new dishwashers from both LG and KitchenAid have default main wash temps of around 105 degrees. Using the "temp boost" option raises it to 120 degrees. These dishwashers heat the final rinse water to between 140-160, depending on the cycle. While KitchenAids' cleaning scores don't seem to have taken a hit, the new LG dishwashers are scoring significantly lower at Consumer Reports.

It's madness is what it is. I want appliances to be energy and water-efficient, but this is beyond ridiculous.




This post was last edited 04/02/2013 at 16:03
Post# 669894 , Reply# 7   4/2/2013 at 12:09 (4,035 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

On my bro's 2010 WP DD, I can easily get around the ATC for hot. I put an additional hose connector on the cold line with a valve. I just close it when it fills for the wash, the only downside is that I have to stay there while it fills so I can reopen it afterwards.

And if I leave it open, HOT basically give is the same temp for WARM on the 1990 WP DD, so, overall, it's not the best, but it is workable.


Post# 669931 , Reply# 8   4/2/2013 at 13:48 (4,035 days old) by roscoe62 (Canada)        

When I keep reading threads like this I wonder where will something as simplistic as doing a load of laundry will end (?) between laundry machines so bad with low water usage and water temperatures coupled with detergent "improvements" will we be back to where it all started, yes I dare say it, the scrubbing board??

Post# 669952 , Reply# 9   4/2/2013 at 14:31 (4,035 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

It is sad indeed, I only wash darks in the new Admiral. Warm is the "new" hot. Now my old LAT TAG creates a sauna when our lower level laundry room is cool.

Post# 669995 , Reply# 10   4/2/2013 at 17:00 (4,035 days old) by washer111 ()        
Cold Wash, Hot Wash

Its been discussed before, but using cold water increases the likelihood of buildup (Mineral, detergent, softener) in the machine. You also get lower cleaning power and a less hygienic wash. Enzymes work best around 30-50ºC (86º-130º), and if you don't sort your laundry and wash in cold water, you are "distributing" E-Coli and other nasties from your underwear and socks. I don't know about you, but I'm not interested in wearing clothes that have all been washed in skid-mark water, let alone it being cold. Thats why I do my own laundry in this house. 


Post# 670057 , Reply# 11   4/2/2013 at 19:07 (4,034 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
Just my 2 1/2 cents here.........

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

Granted this may not (probably won't) work on the all computer controlled, upper end(?) models, but it may be worth a shot.

 

While I could be completey wrong here, this is how I think it works.   The size of the opening inside the inlet valve is smaller on the hot side then the cold.   This reduces the hot flow down to 50 or 60% of what it should be.   The cold side is "wide open" allowing cold water to flow at a higher rate then the hot.   I'm sure you get it.

 

So on to my thought.   On machines which only have the restricted inlet valve, reverse the hose connections AND the electrical connections at the inlet valve solenoids.   This way you will obviously change the flow rates for hot and cold, getting a warmer / hotter wash.

 

On top loading WP built machines, I've noticed they alternate between warm and hot or cold and hot to get the desired temp (the damned ATC at work, obviously).

 

Kevin 


Post# 670066 , Reply# 12   4/2/2013 at 19:32 (4,034 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
well what will you do if future washers do not have water he

pierreandreply4's profile picture
What will you do if future washers do not have water heaters hot water temp or warm water temp options and are cold water wash only has it may happen? me i wash in cold water and i have no such buildup or problems and my clothes comes out nice and clean.

Post# 670067 , Reply# 13   4/2/2013 at 19:32 (4,034 days old) by thefixer ()        

"will we be back to where it all started, yes I dare say it, the scrubbing board??"



CLICK HERE TO GO TO thefixer's LINK


Post# 670081 , Reply# 14   4/2/2013 at 20:20 (4,034 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick )        
I just shut off the cold water valve

when I want a hot wash...

Post# 670088 , Reply# 15   4/2/2013 at 20:29 (4,034 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Where my bro used to live, the house has one of the Maytag Peformas. The ATC Warm for the wash was actually good. It started by having just the hot water open only and then opened the cold water once it got hot enough and both valves then STAY open for the remainder of the fill.



Post# 670095 , Reply# 16   4/2/2013 at 21:18 (4,034 days old) by washer111 ()        
Dry Cleaners

I'll go there instead. Or connect my washer to a hot only or tempered supply. Or, ill get a vintage washer

Post# 670124 , Reply# 17   4/2/2013 at 23:17 (4,034 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

RevinKevin, on some models not so much. I agree about the restrictor on the "hot" side. The ATC still adjusts the temp I have cold, cool, warm and hot. Still cold ground water here so read ice water, cool water, luke warm and barely warm. I also discoverd that washing on normal and "low" water level the splashing is so excessive it leaked a little on the floor. alr

Post# 670130 , Reply# 18   4/3/2013 at 00:41 (4,034 days old) by washer111 ()        
Build up

As for this, F&P recommend washing in warm or hot every fourth wash to stop scrud or other buildup. This suggests long term cd water is bad. Another user posted a pic of what 20 years of it does to washers. They were Australian, and we get the cold water bashing from the authorities all the time here.....

CLICK HERE TO GO TO washer111's LINK


Post# 670260 , Reply# 19   4/3/2013 at 14:09 (4,034 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Link needs to be fixed.

Post# 670289 , Reply# 20   4/3/2013 at 17:07 (4,034 days old) by washer111 ()        
See For Yourself

See Page 21, under "Fabric Softener" in the manual and Page 24 "Changing Pre-Set Options," for the guide to using Hot/Warm water and water as hot as the tap:



CLICK HERE TO GO TO washer111's LINK

Post# 670291 , Reply# 21   4/3/2013 at 17:35 (4,034 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
fp washer

pierreandreply4's profile picture
me if i had this brand of washer i would set it to cold water wash and rinse has i notice that there is no diffrence in washing in cold water and if there is a quick wash cycle i would only use the quick wash cycle as well. So i would advise reading the following article.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO pierreandreply4's LINK


Post# 670297 , Reply# 22   4/3/2013 at 17:53 (4,034 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
I think we are going to have to agree to differ

ozzie908's profile picture
on this subject as it goes round and round and its down to each individual I personally could not consider washing my whites in anything less than 60c ok so a few Tshirts have shrunk but no more than they would when dried in a dryer that gets up to extreme high temps. So my argument is I have read the article that Pierre put and I am still not convinced that saving 60$ a year is worth the hassle if I really want to save money I stop using the dryer.... Simples

Austin


Post# 670305 , Reply# 23   4/3/2013 at 18:14 (4,033 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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people believe a lot of what they read or hear on the TV....is it informative, maybe....there can be a lot of variables as well, that is left out!....this is only info for a quick "you know I read somewhere!" conversation starter....and nothing more sorry to say....this can be used as a guide, it's not the Bible of washing clothes...chances are the person writing this article most likely doesn't even wash clothes, not to mention know how to operate a washer....

I know as much about washing machines as I do cars, but let's say I didn't....I would ask around, read articles, most important, I would talk to the mechanic who has more hands on experience than the salesman handing me a brochure!...just saying

we who are really into laundry, know better, and they claim to consult the "experts"...actually that would be US....has anyone here been interviewed by any magazine or TV show?....doubt it, because if they were, these articles would not be a top headline to catch everyones attention.....

no different than the HE machines on the market today....oh how they save the planet, and are so green, and conserve water, blah, blah, blah....hell, if you want to save water and make ANY machine HE, add an eyedropper of water to a machine....SEE how much water I saved?....is it effective?.....thats the real question everyone avoids!.....

this is not saying that COLD water can not be used to wash clothing....now, for every single load, I don't see it being effective outside of rinsing....ther are a few select loads where HOT should and only be used, theres no getting around that...if COLD is so effective, then why not only one valve on washing machines, no temp selections, just COLD for everything...

yes, I wash some things in COLD water, mainly black jeans, I want them to stay dark as long as possible....actually I only rinse them with a little Woolite and then dry them....but that's about it!

better yet...get rid of your water heater....who needs it, it just waste energy to heat water, that is claimed not to be needed.....in fact, turn yours off tonight, and take your morning shower with COLD water...if it cleans clothes so well, it should get the soils and body oils off of you in no time.....and take as long of a shower as you want....you'll never run out!....

actually to be green and conserve water......just take a 16 ounce bottle of water in the shower with you....that's all that's needed to wash and rinse yourself off with it!....hell, it's expected to wash a load of clothes in less!


Post# 670365 , Reply# 24   4/3/2013 at 22:46 (4,033 days old) by washer111 ()        

A news program did a test on detergents and actually found cold water detergents to be highly ineffective. Cold power is rubbish.... Bio Zet is far better, made in Japan, so why not?

And in Australia, we have solar water heaters. Washing in hot becomes really stupid in this instance, since it is free. I'm still shivering about some laundry done last night at 40c on the express cycle. Not mine, but contained sweaty shirts, underwear etc... Clothes barely looked wet in there, let alone "washed".

Our Miele soaks in cold water, however, before proceeding with your wash, which is nice, when selected. I only wash stuff in cool or cold when the label says so. Our towels are down at 40c because of this..... Same for my darks.


Post# 670380 , Reply# 25   4/4/2013 at 01:19 (4,033 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
"Green" eh? Know what that is? Algae, from not getting wash clean. If you're lucky. If not, it's something-o'coccus or something o'mildew.

At 80F, sebum (skin oil) is a waterproof wax. It's not a liquid that can be agitated and surfactanted away until 95F(*), its operating temperature. Now if *I* know that, one might wish that washer designers knew it too and didn't set 80F as a wash temp other than "cold" for woolens that nobody wears against their skin.

80F is cold tap temperature here from June to September. Fine for rinsing, useless for washing unless what you're washing wasn't dirty in the first place.

(*Except in one Canadian province where anything is possible.)


Post# 670403 , Reply# 26   4/4/2013 at 07:39 (4,033 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
To Be Fair.

mrb627's profile picture
I grew up in a household that only had cold water plumbing to the washing machine, so that is what we used. We added bleach to white loads and our clothes were clean. Nobody got sick and nobody died from washing in cold water.

Malcolm


Post# 670423 , Reply# 27   4/4/2013 at 10:02 (4,033 days old) by kenmore700bill (Lodi NJ)        

kenmore700bill's profile picture
I agree with Malcom, I grew up with cold water washing the only things my mother used to put in hot or warm water were my fathers work clothes becasue he was an auto mechanic (and they got 2 rinses). Everything else got the cold water wash. Today I use cold water winter and summer. In the winter I set the Kenmore Water temp to cold-cold where it mixes the hot in to get to the temp, in the spring and summer straight cold water setting. Clothes come out clean(well they arent dirty to begin with when they go in the washer I am an office worker not a grave digger or mechanic.)

Post# 670432 , Reply# 28   4/4/2013 at 11:17 (4,033 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
I've got nothing against washing in temp-controlled cold water; in fact I washed everything that way for 1-1/2 years when Tide Coldwater first appeared. Caveat: I use liquid chlorine bleach for whites. I hung clothes on the line during summer, so they weren't even sanitized by the heat of the dryer. Never got sick. I quit washing in temp-controlled cold because it became boring...if that makes any sense.

What I don't like is not being able to choose hot water at all. I fully understand defaulting cycles to cooler temps...but at least give me the option to use hot water when the load requires it. It chaps my ass to see a "HOT" water setting on the Immersion Care knowing it's a blatant lie. Having said that, I have to confess it has become my daily driver...for the time being. I've even been washing loads of kitchen whites in it on the Eternity cycle, LOL. I think I've used the front-loader once the past two or three weeks.




This post was last edited 04/04/2013 at 16:57
Post# 670560 , Reply# 29   4/5/2013 at 00:57 (4,032 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))        

arbilab's profile picture
Meanwhile Euro washers heat wash water to 200F. And Euro electric costs more than ours. If I want to spend money heating wash water, a thousand-dollar washer should by gawd let me and not argue.

I just moved from an apartment with 30yo appliances to one with 15yo appliances and the contrast is downright disgusting. The 'new' stove won't turn the surface units red and the oven regulation is pathetic. It's scarcely insulated and you can bend the oven door with a slight push. The 'new' fridge won't hold standard size containers like gallon water jugs, the old one would. Same brand, Hotpoint (US). Same model, BOL apartment special. To get the old cold set at 5, the new has to be set to 8.

One thing is certain, the appliance industry abandoned any semblance of self respect some time back.


Post# 670802 , Reply# 30   4/6/2013 at 07:27 (4,031 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Good point

jetcone's profile picture

Yogi! >"NO ONE is washing Construction or a Mechanics clothes in COLD water and getting them clean.....I have tried.....not happenning!"

 

I had a plumber in while working on Zero Suds , he wanted to know all about it , when it was coming out, I asked why all the interest, his reply- he'd just bought one of "these new machines" ( an he Top Loader)  and could not get his work clothes clean, in fact he said they felt like all the grime just got smeared all over the clothing now. I told him to use as hot water as he can get and I'd send him some product when it hit the market.

 

But the point about ATC is disturbing and I remember even in my 1996 Neptune, if only one of the valves was shut off, the machine sensed it and shut right down!!

 

All machine board controlled


Post# 670860 , Reply# 31   4/6/2013 at 12:54 (4,031 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
read the fabric label and you will see that almost all fabra

pierreandreply4's profile picture
have you ever read the clothes fabric label not all clothes are made to be wash in hot water or very stain clothes me i have some bedding but the care label say to wash eather warm or in cold water, me if i buy some new bed sheets i take the time to read the care label most of my clothes are cold water wash only including my bedsheets but my bed sheets are non bleachable. It is also recommended to prvent stain formsetting permently in the fabric to wash them in cold water.

Post# 670901 , Reply# 32   4/6/2013 at 15:45 (4,031 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
theres even a few machines out there, the one I have is a Vestel White, and that will do an ALL-Stain removal in one washing cycle...it will start with a COLD water wash, which will remove stains in that temp, and then the temp starts to increase from the internal heater, as WARM approaches, those stains are removed, constantly progressing until a BOIL Wash if needed is reached, before it will continue in the cycle to rinsing....this is only if you select this option, and how far up the scale you want the temp to go......this can be very effective for many stains...

I know many people who have their machine hooked up to COLD only...and are somewhat satisfied with the results....until it comes to an item that requires a warmer temp.....

many labels are a good guide as to washing many items...

sheets can be washed in COLD water, as directed....but to eliminate most body oils, lotions, creams, and massage oils, or whatever things may come about in your boudoir.....sometimes only warm/hot will do!......not that I would EVER come across lipstick on my sheets, cold water isn't removing it, no matter what detergent you use....

but in a label from Carrhardt or Dickies workgear....you ain't gonna find "Wash in COLD only!"....


many detergents, color safe bleach, and enzyme cleaners recommend for best results, warm or hot wash.....or disolve in these higher temps, to activate before adding to your COLD wash.....read the box!

theres new detergents being invented all the time to combat the washing effects of COLD water...their just not there yet.....

one product not available in my area, but is still made according to Colgate/Palmolive is COLD POWER....that stuff worked!....or even All-Temperature Cheer....these were effective......todays detergents just don't have that kick for the lower temps....

and in some areas, during the Winter.....COLD water is almost ICE!....

one thing I do for a test load, for any machine, cycle, temp, detergent....and luckily I have 3 brothers who are mechanics, is use their clothes as test loads.....

I dare anyone to go to a local dealer or garage, and offer to wash their clothes for a few weeks, and see how clean you are getting them in a COLD water wash....
I have mechanics offering me to do their wash for pay.....because I can get them cleaner than their wives can!....


Post# 671268 , Reply# 33   4/8/2013 at 02:06 (4,029 days old) by vintagesearch ()        

I can relate. Our LG waveforce (the lower end one with a non glass lid) doesn't have the internal water heater. However I've noticed the following when using the HOT setting it initially fills hot only until it passes let's say maybe the fourth row of the bottom of the basket holes and then, its warm. I've actually touched the hoses to feel and stopped and opened the washer to feel the water. I miss the Kenmore with its scalding hot water. But I must say the LG cleans brilliantly. And I use cold frequently. On a sidenote I've used the tide pods results were impeccable.

Post# 671282 , Reply# 34   4/8/2013 at 06:11 (4,029 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Cold & Oily

mrb627's profile picture
I can't imagine washing anything oily/greasy in a 'modern' washer with a plastic outer tub. Especially when COOL is the new HOT.


Malcolm


Post# 671285 , Reply# 35   4/8/2013 at 06:22 (4,029 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
thats the odd part.....How many people have no clue that the temps are dubbed down, and not getting temps they think they selected, willing to bet not too many actually stop the machine and open the lid to check!....

I removed the sensor in the Cabrio.....although it did give a full HOT wash, and a COLD rinse.....I could not get a WARM wash at all....so the sensor was put back in place....

not really a bad issue with this one, it only drops my HOT(140) temp from the water heater by 10 degrees, and WARM is around 100.....they would drop down more if I selected the "EcoBoost", for increased energy savings....

but there are some machines that the dubbed temps are way too COOL


Post# 671311 , Reply# 36   4/8/2013 at 08:59 (4,029 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
True

mrb627's profile picture
Most people just think that they aren't using enough detergent or begin to pre-treat more. A win-win for detergent manufacturers.

Malcolm


Post# 671490 , Reply# 37   4/9/2013 at 00:18 (4,028 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

Yogi, why not just put a switch on the the sensor?  Open you get hot water, closed you get warm.

 

I cut into the line from the thermistor on one of my WP Duets  and added a bit of resistance to get hotter temps.  Tried a few different values, too high and cold was warm.  You have to look at what values the thermistor is putting out by temp to determine first if it will work and second how much you want to boost the temp.  I thought about setting up several values of resistors and switching them but it was not worth the effort, don't recall but I think I settled on a 2K value.


Post# 671517 , Reply# 38   4/9/2013 at 05:37 (4,028 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
I was attempting to leave the sensor out of its holder, but since it was only a 10 degree drop, I slid it back in place and left it alone......if there was a drastic change I would have left it out....no biggie on temp change like this....

but we are gonna have to look at resistor changes as we get further into the future, where their making harder to override this stuff...

for the most part were gonna end up with our own version of semi-automatics.....were gonna be using buckets to add the proper temp and amount of water....like some of us don't do this already.....

then again, we could be in the middle of these changes, FLer's and HE machines came out, then the lower water restrictions, poor cleaning results and complaints, causing manufacturers to add sprinklers and power sprays to help with this.....give it time, we may be going back to more available use of hotter wash temps.....we can always hope and keep our fingers crossed!


Post# 672371 , Reply# 39   4/13/2013 at 02:27 (4,024 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Well finally Friday night I was able to wash a load of whites in the Admiral with results close to the LAT Maytag. As suggested I cranked the cold tap almost all the way off for the wash fill. Was leary to turn it completely off as I am forgetful. After the wash spin I turned the timer back to 6 minutes of wash, reopened the cold valve all the way and let it run all the way to off. It pretty much created a rinse and a 1/2 with rerunning the full cycle and the lower water level rinse (it was set on Large Load). I think I can live with the Admiral for the bulk of our lightly soiled color loads. For white loads it is a PITA. alr

Post# 672411 , Reply# 40   4/13/2013 at 08:55 (4,024 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        

tecnopolis's profile picture
All you need is one of these.........Connect the end of your hot water inlet hose to it, then one of the 2 ends to the washer's hot water inlet...and the other to a "y" valve with shut offs.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO tecnopolis's LINK on eBay


Post# 672413 , Reply# 41   4/13/2013 at 09:02 (4,024 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        

tecnopolis's profile picture
Attach this splitter valve to your washer. The second hose from the hot water split. and your cold water inlet hose to the other.
Now when you want a hot wash, simply close the valve on the cold side with the little toggle and you'll get a hot fill thru your washer's cold fill valve. Want a warm fill, throttle the cold valve to get the correct mix for the desired temperature.

Hope this makes sense.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO tecnopolis's LINK on eBay


Post# 672451 , Reply# 42   4/13/2013 at 12:47 (4,024 days old) by JeffG ()        

Alex, for people considering these parts, are the hoses included with the mixer reinforced or plain rubber?

Mixers fix the temperature problem, but a side benefit of drilling out the hot water orifice is that washer fills are much faster, by a third or more. It's not until you spend the 10 minutes to do it that you start kicking yourself for not doing it sooner. It's saved us hours of waiting over the last couple years.


Post# 672481 , Reply# 43   4/13/2013 at 14:54 (4,024 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        

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drilling out is fine if your looking for a quicker fill. but some are looking for a totally "true" hot wash or warm rinse that today's machines prevent. This is a walk around to that.
The hoses are straight rubber. but you could create your own using stainless steel hoses and another y-splitter from the garden department.


Post# 672499 , Reply# 44   4/13/2013 at 16:03 (4,024 days old) by JeffG ()        

For the price of the mixer and its intended use it should have reinforced hoses imo. I'd highly recommend finding a similar replacement that includes them, or simply buy your own, especially if you keep your water heater cranked up.

At least the valves look to be real brass instead of Chinese pot metal.


Post# 672502 , Reply# 45   4/13/2013 at 16:11 (4,024 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        

tecnopolis's profile picture
My point was to show this restriction could be overcome with simple off-the-shelf parts.
Of course the user can mix and match components to suit their own preference and budget.

I like Porsches, some might choose Corvette.


Post# 672532 , Reply# 46   4/13/2013 at 17:32 (4,024 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

The only problem with this is that when the machine is not filling or not in use, you MUST keep at least one of those valves closed or else you're literally joining the cold and hot water lines together, and you'll have warm water coming out of all water outlets in the house.

Of course, I'm not saying this cannot be done, it's just that you have to be there waiting for the fills and such. (unless of course you're just doing a cold wash and rinse)


Post# 672539 , Reply# 47   4/13/2013 at 17:37 (4,024 days old) by washer111 ()        
technopolis

I actually was thinking similarly to you, though I'd fit the two way onto Hot tap and another to the Cold tap, add some "Hot" into the cold and hopefully temper the water enough for the ATC to be irrelevant in its efforts (ATC can't "care" what the Cold water temp is right?). Although, if you did this, the machine might chuck a sad if it couldn't reach the "target" water temperature and you'd have to close your taps after each wash, to prevent Hot/Cold mixing in the mains water.

 

And your idea of just using the cold water valve and putting a two way on is a BRILLIANT idea! Wish I'd thought of that :) 


Post# 672541 , Reply# 48   4/13/2013 at 17:39 (4,024 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        

tecnopolis's profile picture
Solution: All you have to do is shut the valve to the added hot water lead to restore the separation. Nothing truly good comes without working for it.

Post# 672565 , Reply# 49   4/13/2013 at 18:21 (4,023 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Just add an antisiphon valve or two.....backflow or crossflow can be eliminated

Post# 672573 , Reply# 50   4/13/2013 at 18:55 (4,023 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481)        

tecnopolis's profile picture
I had to do the reverse when I used to hook my Haier combo up to the sink. The water temps were timer controlled and with only one hose coming from the faucet I had to split the cold water to feed both inlet valves. this is a little more complicated, but the idea is to provide a temperature crossover which is user controlled.
I liken the energy star efforts of laundry manufacturers to the emissions requirements the auto industry had to impose back in the early 70's.
Yeah, it meets the government requirements, but the end result has been less than desirable for the end user.


Post# 672577 , Reply# 51   4/13/2013 at 19:16 (4,023 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Martin, where could those be gotten from, also what do they look like? That could work well for my bro's 2010 WP DD.

Post# 672956 , Reply# 52   4/15/2013 at 16:01 (4,022 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Usually found at appliance stores...well for me at a Mom/Pop place that sells parts as well....

this just screws onto the hot/cold valves on the wall, and then attach the hoses....simple to install, and prevent any water from going in the wrong direction....basically one way only

hope this helps

for some areas, this is code.....they were on every hose faucet in our new house...


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK


Post# 672993 , Reply# 53   4/15/2013 at 18:56 (4,021 days old) by DirectDriveDave ()        

Thanks a lot!


I'll save that link.


Post# 674007 , Reply# 54   4/19/2013 at 16:08 (4,018 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
start looking for one of these now.....were eventually gonna be doing our own "ole time" boil wash.....back to heating water on the stove, and wringer washers...it's gonna be the only option for a hot wash....laugh now....it's comming!....

actually I use this to dye jeans, nothing like a concentrated boiling dye bath!....


Post# 674041 , Reply# 55   4/19/2013 at 18:06 (4,017 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Warming up to cold

ovrphil's profile picture
We use all ranges of temperatures for washing all ranges of textiles. I agree, it depends..read the lables, and fyi, we used to use, in the 80's, All Temperature Cheer(haven't looked to see if they still make it).

loved reading this thread - good ideas and the link to the lady who took to hand-washing - lol! It might come to that. :-)


Post# 674065 , Reply# 56   4/19/2013 at 19:07 (4,017 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
After reading this

mark_wpduet's profile picture
I'm glad my Duet has a heater on it.........I do know that I think mine has ATC even though it has a heater, however, when I select HOT, it feels pretty hot to me - hot enough to create steam, and then it's heated more from that point.......I can't think of anything I wash in warm or cold water, unless it's something like an electric blanket.

Hot water doesn't kill E-Coli though, does it? Don't you need bleach or something for that? I always use a little LCB in whites.



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