Thread Number: 45879
Static electricity in dryer - possible solutions
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Post# 670900   4/6/2013 at 15:40 (4,030 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        

I have been having *a lot* of issues with static electricity in the dryer. I use vinegar for rinsing and have never used fabric sheets (especially since I have a stainless dryer).

So I put on my google hat and have come to two solutions that please me equally. The first one I am trying (since I dont have wool yarn for the second idea) I want to bounce off you all in case you can think of a reason why I shouldnt try it. Ive read to use safety pins attached to a cloth or sock. The second is making yarn balls out of wool and felting them. It cuts down on drying time and static electricity.

Thoughts?





Post# 670911 , Reply# 1   4/6/2013 at 16:35 (4,030 days old) by georgect (Fairfield, CT)        
Google Says...

georgect's profile picture
The safety pin method should work or dryer balls.

Post# 670936 , Reply# 2   4/6/2013 at 19:17 (4,030 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

On Frigidaire & some Kenmore dryers there is a little grounding ball in the rear bearing assembly. Doesn't this prevent static build up?

Post# 670953 , Reply# 3   4/6/2013 at 20:45 (4,030 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        
On Frigidaire & some Kenmore dryers there is a little ground

Not sure. Its a Kenmore dryer. Link below to parts list.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO teknikleespekng's LINK


Post# 670981 , Reply# 4   4/6/2013 at 23:47 (4,030 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

When I worked on that Kenmore(Frigidaire) dryer the other day and replaced the rear bearing assembly I noticed there was a little silver ball about the size of a BB that is installed into a hole in the plastic bearing mount. It makes contact with both the drum spindle and the exterior bearing mounting bracket on the back of the dryer. The installation instructions say this is to ground the drum. I assumed this was to act as a static killer for the drum.

It was murder to keep that little ball in the drum while reinstalling the drum bearing into the groove. It kept popping out. But we eventually got it. I have never seen anything like it on a Kenmore or Whirlpool sourced dryer before.


Post# 671003 , Reply# 5   4/7/2013 at 06:15 (4,029 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
Static built up in both my 2002 and 2010 Frigidaire dryers, usually during the winter, and only with loads containing items with a high content of man-made fabric.

The 2010 dryer has an "Anti-Static" option, which sprays the load with a super-fine mist as it enters the cool-down phase. It eliminates static electricity completely. I use it during the winter on loads of dress shirts. An item or two will emerge with a damp spot, but it dries quickly and has never left a water-mark stain.


Post# 671029 , Reply# 6   4/7/2013 at 10:12 (4,029 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        
whirlcool Re: BB Ball

I saw that in the parts list - good to know if we have to replace the rear bearing to make sure we account for that.

I do need someone to come and replace the felt glide and seal. I know I could probably do it, just dont have the time. Im also thinking of having the whole dryer "overhauled" if need be (new belt, bearing, etc). I dont know why Im going through glides like I am. Machine is level, I dont overload the dryer and this is my 2nd set of glides. Perhaps its a design flaw? My parents have a Kenmore (whirlpool) dryer with the lint screen on the top w/the hamper door that is over 20 years old and never once had a repair. Their glides are still perfect. *shrug*


Post# 671090 , Reply# 7   4/7/2013 at 12:57 (4,029 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

I am not trying to be impolite with this question, so please take it as the suggestion it is rather than a criticism, but have you tried using a slightly less dry setting on an auto dry cycle or not drying things for as long on timed settings? I find that loads removed as soon as they are dry instead of being allowed to continue to tumble, even through an extended cooldown have far less of a buildup of static charge. Also, since the cabinet is grounded, if you will touch the garment to the drum opening as you remove it, you have a chance to discharge the static electricity in it.

Post# 671108 , Reply# 8   4/7/2013 at 14:05 (4,029 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        
Dryer settings

Tom, you may have touched on why I seem to be experiencing more than usual static. I try to put in same weight items into the dryer. Sometimes I have to mix cause putting too little makes drying time longer (I do keep some towels near the dryer to throw in). Ive just been turning the knob back farther than usual if the load isnt dry first time around. I should probably remove stuff that's mostly dry too. Yeah, laziness. I'll keep that in mind and see what happens! Thanks :)

Lisa


Post# 671113 , Reply# 9   4/7/2013 at 14:20 (4,029 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

If you buy the rear bearing kit, a new ball is included. If you lose it (and that would not be hard to do) you can also order it separately.

I do need someone to come and replace the felt glide and seal.

It's not that hard of a job to do. The most tedious part of this job is removing the residual glue that holds the felt pieces to the dryer. You have to do this so the new felt glue gets a good grip on the mounting surface. It only took about 20 minutes on that Frigmore dryer to do that. The glide just snaps into place. If you are replacing just the glide and felt, you could get er' done in about 90 minutes, easy. I would also add some more high temp lubricant to the rear bearing cup just to make sure. And while you are in there it would be an excellent time to vacuum the dryer out to prevent any possibility of a lint fire.


Post# 671136 , Reply# 10   4/7/2013 at 15:57 (4,029 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        
DIY repair

I watched the repair guy when he did the glides/seal. I understand what you're saying about it being a DIY job. I watched videos on YouTube from Parts Select. However, working and taking care of my Autistic son is a full time ordeal and sometimes I just need to delegate work. My DH cannot do this so I'd rather just pay someone to do it. I am going to use someone else this time (recommended by a friend) and have him take a look at the whole machine and see what else needs replacing. Plus you get the added bonus, if they screw up the repair, they have to make it right. The new service guy has been around a long time and has an excellent reputation. He gets lots of referrals. He will not do work that is unnecessary and is fair with his prices.

I am just overwhelmed at the moment with lots of other things - which I wont bore you all with the details. I honestly would like someone to come in and just do it for me, know what I mean?


Post# 671186 , Reply# 11   4/7/2013 at 18:36 (4,029 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

I wasn't aware of the reasons for your time constraints. I'd be interested in knowing how much the repairman charges for the repair job.

Post# 671692 , Reply# 12   4/9/2013 at 20:16 (4,027 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Dryer Drum Grounding

combo52's profile picture

The reason that Frigidaire and GE must have a grounded drum is the fact that the heater element is directly behind the drum and when bobby pins, under-wires from bras and the element itself fails it can cause the drum to become electrically LIVE. Whirlpools and Maytag's dryers were much better designed and did not present this possible hazard. [ see I do give MT credit when due ].

 

When replacing the rear bearing on a FD dryer you just put a little dab of the grease that comes with the kit on the ball and it will stay in place [ My last call today was one of the KM stack versions that I had to replace the rear bearing in, and no matter how many of these I work on they are still a POS dryer ]   Also when replacing glued in place seals and front bearings on dryers it is NOT necessary to remove the old glue, the new glue will stick just fine to the old glue residue, I have done this hundreds of times and have never had a problem.


Post# 671715 , Reply# 13   4/9/2013 at 20:43 (4,027 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        
Heater element

I dont think I have a heating element in the burner on a gas dryer, do I? Would you suggest then that I dont use safety pins? The only metal that goes into the dryer on a regular basis are snaps, buttons and zippers from jeans/jackets/sweatshirts. I dont machine dry my bras. In the meantime, perhaps I'll go and get some wool and see how that works out.

I am getting real tired of the brown marks on clothes that get caught in the gap of the tub. I have to find the time (hahahaha) to call the service man and get an appointment.



Post# 671722 , Reply# 14   4/9/2013 at 21:31 (4,027 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

The Kenmore (Frigidaire) dryer was a gas dryer and had the burner under and slightly to the left of the drum. I imagine that this set up won't have the electrically charged problem?

Post# 672625 , Reply# 15   4/13/2013 at 23:01 (4,023 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        
Dryer Balls

I went to Michaels today with a 50% off coupon and bought a skein of 100% wool. I made 3 balls and ran it though a hot wash with socks and towels. Then into the dryer (on medium heat, I never use high heat). They were partially felted. I put some water up on the stove and then poured the boiling water over the balls in a bucket and stirred briskly for about 5 minutes. Much better. Im doing more wash tomorrow and will run them through another wash and into the dryer. Will report back.

Post# 672767 , Reply# 16   4/14/2013 at 19:00 (4,022 days old) by mrx ()        

It sounds like it's not grounding the drum either because of a failed grounding contact, there's something wrong with the grounding in your home (unlikely but worth checking!) or most likely the drum's coated with fabric softener.

Remove the dryer's plug from the wall and then gently clean the interior of the drum with a damp microfibre cloth.

See if things improve.


Post# 674144 , Reply# 17   4/20/2013 at 08:34 (4,016 days old) by teknikleespekng ()        
Update

mrx - I dont use fabric sheets. I have a stainless interior and the manual said not to use them. Outlet properly grounded - checked w/receptacle tester.

The wool dryer balls have made a difference both in drying times and static electricity! Ive also found that the clothes dry more evenly - my sons long sleeved shirts - the cuffs are fully dry not still slightly damp.




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