I know there has been a lot of discussion this recently and I believe there is little you can do with the computerized and temp controlled machines.   However the "more basic" washers you can do something about.

This is a pretty BOL machine we have at work, a single speed, 2 knob wonder that's about 4 years old.   It's used for washing towels, shop rags, buffing pads (and the occasional load of someone's personal laundry, EEWWW).

Last weekend the poor thing was getting a REAL work out!  It was run non-stop, load after load, for 9 hours each day.    I have to say this thing is proving to be a real work horse!   After going all day Saturday, by noon on Sunday I had run 22 loads through it and we weren't done yet.   By midday Monday things were going at a bit slower pace and today I >only< did 7 loads.

So, last week I was telling a co-worker I could modify the lid switch so it would run with the lid open, she said "OK!" so I did.   (it would only fill with the lid open, nothing else.) 

Now to get to the point of this post.   When set to "HOT" the water trickles on and it takes like 10 minutes (or more?) to fill the tub for the wash.   Of course the "COLD" flows like gangbusters... and when set to "WARM" the water is STILL cold, just not quite as cold as "cold".

I think it was the weekend (after I finish out this week, it will be 14 days straight and UGH, I'm more then ready for a day off!) I pushed the washer away from the wall, removed the fill hoses and looked inside the fill valve inlets.  On the HOT side I couldn't even see the orifice the water flowed thru.   So yesterday I decided to remove the inlet valve at the end of the day, take it home and see if there was a way to modify it to flow more hot.

Note on the "Don't use low water level" warning.  I put that on there because there were 3 occasions I can remember when I walked into the "laundry room" to find water all over the floor around the washer.   I was puzzled until the 3rd time when it was still washing and on the "low" setting.   The "low" water level is SO LOW, that with the hyper agitation speed, water was splashing SO aggressively, it was going UP AND OVER the top of the outer tub and running down the inside of the cabinet!

Here is the inlet valve AFTER the modification.  Cold is on the right and Hot the left.   The orifice in the hot side was so small, the shaft of a "Q-Tip" (after removing all the cotton) would NOT fit in it.

I used a drill bit to make the orifice larger.   As this is plastic, use gentle force as you are "drilling" and make sure not to go "too far".

Here is the drill bit I used to enlarge the hole.   The smaller bit is the size of the hole "before" and the larger bit is "After".  

The larger bit is 5/32 (4mm).   As you can see by the drill bits, the hole is MUCH larger now.

Here is the HOT water flow before (above) and after (below).   Quite a difference!

AND... now when set to a "warm" fill, the water is actually kinda warm!  

The COLD water flow is still more than the HOT, but now the hot is much stronger than it was before!

This is filling with cold for the rinse.

Washing a good size load of micro-fiber towels.

I hope you all found this helpful and informative! 

Kevin

Hi Arthur, 

Believe me I would never have this washer for personal use.   Fortunately this belongs to my company so I don't have to worry about it.

And yeah... this "intermittent agitation".... UBER FAST....nothing.... uber fast.... nothing.   Sounds like a great way to really tear up your delicate unmentionables, or what ever you would wash on a "gentle cycle".

Kevin

Thanks Martin!

A couple notes for clarification:

~ I removed the inlet valve because: #1 when I removed the hoses I couldn't see the hole the water flowed through (no flash light), #2 I wanted to see how the back of the valve was constructed before I did anything and #3 I didn't have all the tools I needed at work (drill, drill bits, etc).  

A WORD OF CAUTION: When you drill out the hole, plastic shavings can get in the valve, which can cause it to NOT close completely, meaning the water won't completely stop dribbling.   This happened to me even though I tried to get all the shavings out.   I had to "cycle" the valve (on and off) 6 times before the water would stop flowing completely.

Martin, the photo above is the "before it was drilled out".   After enlarging the hole the water sprayed hard against the side of the tub and splashed all over the place.

The "gray thing" on the valve outlet end is straight thru and not restricted.   Though it does have some sorf of sensor or something as the "yellow" is where a plug connects.  I don't know what it could be for because this is such a BOL machine, it does not have any sort of temp control (that I know of).

I don't know what it could be for because this is such a BOL machine, it does not have any sort of temp control (that I know of).

It apparently does have ATC if there's a thermistor on the valve assembly. 

Perhaps, but of all the loads I've run through this washer, I've not witnessed ANY sort of "active" control, cycling of the inlet valves or anything like that.

=  =  =  =  =  =  =  =

I just opened up the control panel again and the yellow wires from the thermistor go into the one large plug (with all the other wires) into the timer. 

=  =  =  =  =  =  =  =

And..... the model# is WTW5200SQ0

Well yeah Phil, you smart ones with edjamakashuns that know how to do all that thermos-meister stuff by adding a parallel loop of potent-meter variables or series resistinators to make it an infinite sensor game control system!     

I'd have no clue how to do all that stuff.   

Hi Eric,

Thanks for all the info... and yes you are correct.   That is the correct wiring diagram DADoES, I just opened the console to look at it.  I took photos, but cannot post them until I get home.

I guess the water temp from the little 30 gal electric water heater isn't hot enough to cause the bi-metal switch to trigger, because I've never witnessed it turning off or cycling the valve solenoids.

Kevin