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Thread Number: 46248
2000 KitchenPool KUDM25 dishwasher: Tune-up time? |
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| Post# 675548 , Reply# 3 4/25/2013 at 23:12 (4,008 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
We have a 2000-2001-ish Kitchenpool. In the last few years it started making a surging sound during run. Pump was sucking air; not enough water. We'd spray some hot in with the kitchen sink sprayer and the sound would stop.
Water heater had rapidly dissolving anode rod from our softened water. Plugged up Maytag valve too. It was taking twenty min. to fill. Also the braided flex lines used to hook up the water heater and dishwasher were lined with a black rubber. I believe they have since been changed to a more durable substance. They have a translucent whitish appearance now. At least the water heater flexes do. Haven't examined the d/w hose too closely yet, but I think we'll replace it too, as well as the valve. We took the water valve out of the d/w and it had white particles of the anode rod and black particles of the flex connectors in it. Cleaned the screen but it still didn't work very well. A few year back, a lot of the w/h manufactures started using aluminum anode rods instead of magnesium and this started causing problems in softened water. The aluminum rods are cheaper to make, of course. I was very angry. I spent all last summer working on this stupid problem. And the w/h was only six years old. If you don't have softened water this might not be a problem for you, but you still could have mineral particles and/or flex hose particles if you use flex hoses. Here are the links to last summers ordeal, if you're interested. CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK | ||
| Post# 675549 , Reply# 4 4/25/2013 at 23:13 (4,008 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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| Post# 675553 , Reply# 5 4/25/2013 at 23:33 (4,008 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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An update. The electric anode rod, wire or whatever is working great. No problems at all. We still haven't had a whole house surge protector installed yet and that worries me. Guess I'll have to start putting up a fuss about that. I probably shouldn't worry just about the anode unit, but it was $250.00. There are a lot of other things around the house that could be ruined by a lightning strike too. Everything has delicate electronic circuits these days. The price we pay for mod cons, Ugg.
Rant over. This post was last edited 04/26/2013 at 02:07 | ||
Post# 675583 , Reply# 6 4/26/2013 at 07:16 (4,007 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Poor performing KD 25 DW The fill level is your most likely problem, if it seems low remove the inlet valve and replace it with a new one. Do not waste your time trying to clean the old one unless the screen is PACKED with stuff because of plumbing system problems in your home. I would not brother to dissemble the motor and pump assembly to try cleaning, these P&Ms do not tend to accumulate stuff. If the top screen and outside of pump look like they have accumulated some hard water residue you can use one of several methods for cleaning the DW while it is assembled. | ||
| Post# 675618 , Reply# 7 4/26/2013 at 12:20 (4,007 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA) | ||
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Thanks for all of the replies Thanks for the replies everyone. We do have hard water here, so that may be the main culprit. I'll have to do some investigating this weekend and report back with my findings. | ||
| Post# 676323 , Reply# 9 4/29/2013 at 23:15 (4,004 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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According to what I have observed, that should be about right. Ours isn't filling to the bottom of the heating element. We add water until it touches the bottom of the element and then the pump holds prime and cleaning improves.
Is it level? Does the motor have a steady, consistent sound or does it surge? If it surges the pump is loosing prime and regaining it as the water fills the cleaning system, empties the sump and then looses the prime until the water falls back down and refills the sump. If it's not loosing prime, you maybe having other issues; a pump problem, hard water problem along with the no phosphate in detergents anymore problem that started a couple of years ago. Is there a sudsing problem? Just some ideas going through my mind. The water should be at the right level to function properly at each fill. This post was last edited 04/29/2013 at 23:31 | ||
| Post# 676577 , Reply# 11 4/30/2013 at 21:49 (4,003 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Don't know about your machine, but both of ours and nearly all I've seen shut off before the overfill float clicks. That's usually a safety measure in case the solenoid sticks open. The schematic should tell you.
If you're machine is getting that much water I would guess you've got some other type of problem. You could test the fill valve solenoid with a multimeter by touching probes to the electrical connections while it's filling to see if voltage disappears after appropriate time. You'll have to refer to the timer increment chart for fill times. If the voltage stops and fill continues, the valve is bad. Vice versa and the timer is bad. Also check for good continuity in the wiring from the valve to the timer. Those wires are bent repeatedly when the door opens and closes. It's not usually the wires but it can happen. You'll most likely be dealing with 110-120 volts. You never mentioned the sound. Does the machine sound right when it's running? Is the machine clean on the inside after it's finished? Are all the jets on the wash arms open? That's about all I know to tell you right now. | ||
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