Thread Number: 47219
Portable Washing Machine
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Post# 686112   6/28/2013 at 05:47 (3,926 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        

Anybody on here that uses a potable washing machine or has used one for a length of time, would you please email me. I need to ask you some questions. Here's the deal. I am painting my kitchen in preparation for bringing in a new/old stove. With everything out of the kitchen I was thinking how great it would be to get the washer/stack unit out of the kitchen. Ruins the whole look of things and I need the space in my small kitchen. I realize it would be a bit of a paradigm shift so to speak. I have a small storage closet in the kitchen (not big enough for stack unit) that a portable washer would fit in when not in use. Sure would be nice to have that space. Please anyone e me or share your thoughts. No where to move the stack unit. My neighbor who lives in the other half this 1941 duplex has the same problem. She's thinking about moving her washer/dryer stack unit to the upstairs. I don't want to do that. What if a hose popped. I might not hear the water (I'm about deaf) until I see it dripping from the ceiling. Also, what would the vibration of a washer upstairs do to old plastered ceilings downstairs? Comment anyone.




Post# 686115 , Reply# 1   6/28/2013 at 06:07 (3,926 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Our Kitchen Is On The Tiny Side As Well

launderess's profile picture
Thus both the Hoover TT and the Whirlpool portable were stored elsewhere then rolled into place when needed.

If you get the extra long fill and drain hoses you can really keep the washer far from the sink in case things are "tight". When not in use after being left open for awhile to air dry, put a tablecloth or something over the units and voila, you have a nice table or space to set things on.

Only thing is to make sure the casters on your washer are in good shape. You don't want to mark up the floor each time you shift them about.

L.


Post# 686117 , Reply# 2   6/28/2013 at 06:22 (3,926 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Washer Placement

combo52's profile picture

You left out what king of stack you have now but I would most likely move it upstairs. I agree with you that having your laundry in the kitchen is far from ideal, something like a 24" WP TT takes up little floor space and produces almost no vibration that transfers into the floor. For any upper floor installation of a washer where there is concern about possible water damage from a leak you should have a proper pan built and installed that connects to a drain pipe. The drain pipe does not necessarily have to go into the houses drain but it must at least go outside.

 

One  of my customers just had the PVC drain pipe coming through the wall on the 2nd floor above her deck, once when she actually had a leak she knew it immediately, if it had been plumbed into the sewer she may have not realized the washer had a problem nearly as soon.


Post# 686127 , Reply# 3   6/28/2013 at 07:49 (3,926 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        

I have a Bosch Axxis compact washer and dryer that stack. It would be GREAT if it could be moved to the upstairs with no concerns. Thanks for your comments. Especially about the tray and pipe to the outside. Oh. The dryer is a ductless dryer. I puts off a lot of heat. It would have to go next to a window as there are no bathroom exhaust fans. That's the other deal. Also, it cost a pretty penny and it's only about five years old. No problems. It won't spin if it's off-ballance, but sometimes it jiggles a lot when it starts to spin. Wondering if I move it and put the dryer next to it instead of on top it will remedy the jiggling thing which like I said doesn't happen all the time.

Post# 686128 , Reply# 4   6/28/2013 at 08:00 (3,926 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        
John,

The person you know that moved their machines to the upstairs, what did they do about installing plumbing and electrical. Another drawback of this old building is that the upstairs is under the roof. There is no attic above so there's no way do get between the walls without trenching into the plaster. I found that out when I had two different contractors to come over and look because I wanted to have the building re-wired.

Post# 686156 , Reply# 5   6/28/2013 at 13:17 (3,925 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
how a portable washer looks like the design also depends on the type of portable washer you have or own that go the same for the dryer as well here is a pic of a portable inglis whirlpool portable washer dryer

Post# 686168 , Reply# 6   6/28/2013 at 14:43 (3,925 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)        
Stacked unit

vacbear58's profile picture
Andy

I hope you don't mind me saying, but it sounds to me like you are using a sledge hammer to crack a nut.

As I understand it from what you have written, the issues are:

1. The stacked unit does not fit in with the look you are trying to achieve (presumably vintage) and
2. In a small kitchen you are losing valuable counter space.

To me it seems that the best solution would be to un-stack the drier from the washer and at least store it in the closet, rolling it out when you need it. It will surely be a lot lighter to move than even a portable washer. The ideal of course would be to provide some ventilation to the closet (if possible) and run a power line so that the drier can be used without being moved.

That leaves the washer. I would leave that just where it is and get some butcher block (or alternative finish to your taste) to go over the machine, making it, if possible slightly deeper than the washer. This would be attached to the walls and cabinets around the washer which would remain free standing underneath. Immediately you have now gained at least 2 square feet of counter space.

You could then cover the front of the machine with a curtain or even a door which could then be finished to match, as near as possible, your existing cabinets. This of course would not want to be a heavy construction, as it will need to be removed to allow the machine to be pulled out for maintenance or cleaning.

If it were acceptable, a lightweight ply panel, again finished to match you cabinets and perhaps made to look like a door or drawer/door, held in place with magnetic catches and removed when using the machine, would be another alternative. If you were so inclined, rather than match your cabinetry this could even be made to resemble a vintage appliance, something like a portable dishwasher coloured to match you "new" range.

This latter is all illusion of course, but FAR more inexpensive and less disruptive than trying to remove your laundry upstairs. And of course you keep your investment in appliances which, by the sound of it, answer your needs well.

Good luck with your project, whatever you do I hope it goes well for you

Al


Post# 686224 , Reply# 7   6/28/2013 at 21:49 (3,925 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

laundromat's profile picture
I'd get an LG compact combination washer dryer It's drying feature is condenser type that needs no venting.

Post# 686237 , Reply# 8   6/29/2013 at 04:20 (3,925 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
or maybe a vintage whirlpool combo washer dryer if you can fine any that you could have built in like a dishwasher under your kitchen counter

Post# 686239 , Reply# 9   6/29/2013 at 04:39 (3,925 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        
!!!!!!!!

Great idea. A combo unit hidden under the counter. I'll have to check out the demensions of combo units to see if one would fit, but that's a great idea. It could be hidden away behind cabinet doors when not in use. I could take out my dishwasher and put it there. I mostly wash everything by hand anyway. Thanks everyone for all your suggestions.

Post# 686240 , Reply# 10   6/29/2013 at 04:57 (3,925 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
LG doesn't have those compact washer/dryer models anymore. However, there are the somewhat bigger models, but they don't fit under a counter.

Post# 686243 , Reply# 11   6/29/2013 at 05:09 (3,925 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        
Uh, oh!

Well at least that gives me an idea. I'll research to see if anyone makes a combo that small for under counter. Thanks.

Post# 686257 , Reply# 12   6/29/2013 at 07:03 (3,925 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)        

super32's profile picture
I would do anything I could to keep your Axxis washer and dryer. I fear you won't be happy with the performance of a portable or some other non HE type machine.

Post# 686278 , Reply# 13   6/29/2013 at 10:32 (3,925 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
I'll research to see if anyone makes a combo that small

launderess's profile picture
They are out there by Fagor, Asko, and some off the wall names like Splendide (sp?), but quite honestly you are better off with quality separate units. I certainly wouldn't get rid of Bosch Axxis set for any of the current combo units on the market.

Post# 686286 , Reply# 14   6/29/2013 at 11:09 (3,925 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
The Axxis could be put under the counter instead of a combo. Then you have to decide what to do with the dryer. I assume that's a 220V machine? It could go anywhere if you have a 220V connection there or make one.

Post# 686302 , Reply# 15   6/29/2013 at 12:55 (3,924 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        
Yes!

It is a 220 volt machine.

Post# 687218 , Reply# 16   7/4/2013 at 05:05 (3,920 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        
John,

You commented that when I move the washer dryer upstairs that the drain doesn't necessarily have to go into the house drain, but does need to go outside. That means sudsy water would be going into the roof guttering and flowing out into the yard. Hmmm. Have to think about that. What about the upstairs drain. Can it handle the amount of water that a washer pumps out?! Guess it depends on how clear the drains are, right? Wonder if I am going to run into any type of code issues?! My trusty plumber/electrician....he's both....isn't that great?! lolll He can fill me in on that. Upstairs is definitely where I want them to go.

Post# 687219 , Reply# 17   7/4/2013 at 05:28 (3,920 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Andy:

danemodsandy's profile picture
What John meant was that the drain from a drain pan does not necessarily have to be plumbed to a drain, that a drain pan can just drain to the outside if need be.

Forgive me if you already know all this, but a drain pan for a washer is a big plastic or metal pan that a washer sits in, to catch leaks. They're available at any DIY store like Menards, Lowe's or Home Depot. They're used with a length of pipe to the nearest drain or to the outdoors, and they are a must with upstairs installations. With a drain pan, even a catastrophic leak flows harmlessly to the drain or outside, with no damage to flooring, subflooring, joists or ceilings.

They can be plumbed to the outdoors (where permitted by code) only because they're an emergency device - I don't think plumbing a washer's drain to the outdoors is legal anywhere any more.

The best washer drain pans are stainless - hard to find and expensive, but pretty much eternal. Plastic is okay, but can be cracked or broken. If anyone tries to sell you a galvanized pan, keep walking - a slow leak you can't see will rust it through, and then when the leak gets big enough to need the pan, the pan's no good any more.


Post# 687227 , Reply# 18   7/4/2013 at 07:38 (3,920 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        
Excellent!

Thanks, Sandy!

Post# 687239 , Reply# 19   7/4/2013 at 09:30 (3,920 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Drain Pan Drainage

combo52's profile picture

Thank You for clarifying my original answer Sandy.

 

I do not see any problem with galvanized steel drain pans under washers, we use a metal fabricator to custom make them to fit the area and machines that we are installing. In fact I installed one yesterday, in order for a galvanized pan to rust through you would have to have standing water sitting in it for YEARS, using real Stainless Steel would just be a waste of precious resources as these pans are designed as a emergency measure not as a shower base, LOL.


Post# 687242 , Reply# 20   7/4/2013 at 09:57 (3,920 days old) by retromania (Anderson, South Carolina)        
So, combo!

My plumber would probably have all this knowledge, right? I just need to give him a call and explain yee ole situation.

Post# 687366 , Reply# 21   7/4/2013 at 20:48 (3,919 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
John:

danemodsandy's profile picture
My caveat about galvanized was based in the experience of friends back in Atlanta. They had a minor leak they ignored - after all, the pan was preventing damage, right? But the pan was sitting on a basement floor that was itself damp, and a hole developed. There wasn't a warning that the pan was holed, because the leak was small enough that the water remained under the pan; you didn't see it.

Came the inevitable day that a big leak came, and the pan allowed water to go a lot of places it didn't need to.

So, there's that. I will say that it took years, and that it took the kind of damp concrete floor you often find in the Atlanta area.



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