Thread Number: 47461
Neptune STILL wont Spin....AAAGGGGHHHH!!!! |
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Post# 689177   7/13/2013 at 17:47 (3,933 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )   |   | |
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Even after bypassing the out of balance switches..(of which there are 2) and a new wax motor, spin enable switch and a control board!!..the motor control board looks ok and the motor works fine in all the other cycles..(which I tried too)...am I living in a haunted house that doesn't like it or am I still missing something?
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Post# 689245 , Reply# 3   7/14/2013 at 02:31 (3,933 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea))   |   | |
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Neptunes are a swisscheese design. Our commercial one here has been fixed twice in 2 weeks and remains broken. Not only that, but locked up and full of muddy water it smells like death if one opens the door.
See above RE: harness and switches. Things you could ordinarily trust in a washer you can't trust in a Neptune. |
Post# 689291 , Reply# 4   7/14/2013 at 09:24 (3,933 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )   |   | |
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I only found 2 bypass switches, the one at the bottom of the tub and the one to the right by the concrete block. Repair Clinic also lists a strut displacement switch on the left strut as you look at the machine head-on (that I cant find) and other sources indicate there is also a 4th switch as well..Ill keep looking!
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Post# 689295 , Reply# 5   7/14/2013 at 09:48 (3,932 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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this is based on the 3000/4000 series......and not knowing if the updates/kinks are completed scares the hell out of me of getting one.....
I had one of the first 3000 series washer, and I hate to scare Jerry even more, but they had four techs here at one time working on it, the more they replaced, the less it worked.....for 6 hours it was like an operation, until finally no pulse, I was waiting for them to pull out the paddles and yell "clear"!.... under warranty, but a lost cause......bionic replacement and yet, Six Million wasn't enough to rebuild this thing......but I still have 5 5000 series sets, all working fine..... you know the worst part, Jerry, you need to take a break, its probably something right in front of your face, but your too frustrated to see it just yet...take a breather, then go at it again.... thats the sad part of many of us living too far away....we could probably walk right in there, pull out a hairpin, and having it working in seconds..... I have faith Jerry.....you'll get there, and be tickled pink when its running top dollar!.... |
Post# 690692 , Reply# 6   7/20/2013 at 09:41 (3,927 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)   |   | |
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The strut switch went away kinda early on from what I remember. If it was there, you would see it. The inertia switch should be on the right side of the tub. It's not a switch that hits the cabinet and says stop. If the tub is shaking "violently" but not hitting the cabinet, the inertia switch will kick in and say stop. I have seen my share of those get flaky. Also all the unbalance switches are wired in series. There should be a quick disconnect somewhere on right towards the rear IRC. If you disconnect and ohm out, it should show closed. If I'm still suspect, I will prop my meter and go beat on all the switches. The tub displacement switches will usually show a problem quite easy but the inertia switch can be deceiving. I have actually had to take it out to get it to act up.
Hope this helps |
Post# 690708 , Reply# 7   7/20/2013 at 10:44 (3,926 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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I have never seen a Neptune that did not have at least 3 Unbalance switches in the circuit. Did you by pass the full circuit at the same time? You can just unplug the two blue wires and by pass the whole thing for testing purposes. You could also have a bad washer timer, I have seen the timer make these not spin. Jerry I have boxes of parts for these stack machines, we have recycled so many of these machines I usually don't even brother to save any parts before they are pushed off the back of the truck to be crushed and turned into Toyota's any longer. You could also go over to the recycler near where you live and get a spare machine for parts. |
Post# 690762 , Reply# 8   7/20/2013 at 16:37 (3,926 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )   |   | |
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I took the dryer off the top and found the 'third' balance switch..this one between the right side of the tub and the cabinet. (really hard to change!) The wire was broken off the connector, so I jumped this switch since its on backorder and also replaced the balance switch under the concrete block as it was bad because you can hear the internal switch slide around, even when moving it slightly..the switch on the bottom is still on backorder, so I jumped it as well. After reassemble...still no spin..I checked the control board again and it looks great, the wax motor and spin enable switch are new and working..The only things left are the motor board (looks great) and the motor(works great in all cycles except spin). Im going to try a new timer thing, so John if you have an extra timer please let me know!...are the stacker washer timers the same as the 'regular' washer timers?
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Post# 690799 , Reply# 9   7/20/2013 at 21:31 (3,926 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)   |   | |
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Post# 690801 , Reply# 10   7/20/2013 at 21:59 (3,926 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA )   |   | |
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Post# 690803 , Reply# 11   7/20/2013 at 22:09 (3,926 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)   |   | |
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Well it sounds like you have/had some issue with the switches which you are working on. While kinda rare for may tag but I have seen a few units not spin because of the motor control. For what ever reason, the motor and controller can seem to communicate on weather or not the load is balanced. In my cases it was the controller. I have only had to replace 1 motor but it was for some other issue. I would make sure you dotted all your "I" and crossed all your "T" before moving on to that.
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